CnrMllftn mt '^km^{[, 3J!nniitnin nn& |Hnin. 



SKETCHES 



01 



A JOURNEY 



IN 



CHILI. AND THE ARGENTINE PROYINCES, 



IN 



18 4 9. 



BY 



LIEUT. ISAAC a. STRAIN. U. S. N.. 

. Corresponding Member of the Academy of Natural Sciences of Pbiladelpbia 
of the Historical and Q-eographical Institute of Brazil : 
Ethnological Society of New York, &c. 




NEW YOKK: 
HORACE H. MOORE, 27 MERCHANTS- EXCHANGE. 

1853. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1853, by 

HORACEH. MOORE, 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States, for the Southern Dis- 
trict of New York. 






Printed by 

C. AY. BENEDICT, 

301 William Street, N. Y. 



4 



/ 



,1^- 




Ill 

LIEUT, WILLIAM H. MACOMB, U. S. N., 

AND MY OTHER MESSMATES. XATAL AND CIVIL, 
ON BOARD THE U. S, SHIP LEXINGTON. 

THESE SKETCHES 

ARE RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED. 

IN KINDLY REMEMBRANCE OF OUR* AGREEABLE ASSOCIATION, 

WHILE ON A VOYAGE FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO VALPARAISO, IN 

DECEMBER, JANUARY. AND FEBRUARY, 

1848 AND 1849. 



PREFACE 



A NOTE of explanation may be deemed necessary before 
presenting the following pages to the public. Firstly^ to 
explain the circumstances under which the journey was made. 
Secondly J the paucity of scientific information, and Thirdly^ 
the time which has elapsed between the journey and the publica- 
tion of the narrative. The first point elucidated will measurably 
explain the second. 

Early in the winter of 1848-9 I was ordered to take passage 
in the '' Lexington" from the coast of California for New York ; 
but, unwilling to pass so much time idly on board ship, and not 
anxious to double Cape Horn for the third time during three 
years, I solicited, and obtained permission to leave the ship in 
Valparaiso, and rejoin her at Rio de Janeiro. 

After crossing the continent, and embarking at Buenos Ayres 
in an American vessel, I fell sick with a bilious fever, about two 
days before the brig sprung a leak, and between the two dangers, 
my narrative was nearly anticipated by my demise. The skill in 
seamanship and calm courage of my friend. Captain Clarke, 
saved me from the second danger, while our joint skill in 
medicine, and various empirical essays, saved me from the first ; 



vi PREFACE. 



and after a tedious passage of twenty-two days, we arrived at Rio 
de Janeiro. The brig kept above water by constant pumping, and 
I, a bright yellow from the effects of disease, and so weak as to 
walk only with assistance. In the sequel, however, I fared best, 
as I recuperated, while the brig was condemned and sold. The 
'' Lexington" had sailed four days before our arrival at the 
entrance of the harbour, and after^ my health was restored, T 
returned home in the U. S. brig ^' Perry," arriving at Norfolk on 
the 11th of July, after an absence of nearly six years. The 
circumstances under which my journey was made, will explain 
the second point. I could obtain no instruments, and had no 
time to tarry for the purpose of observing. 

Soon after returning home, I was detailed for Special Service, 
which employed my time until within a month of the reception of 
orders for the Coast of Africa. This duty involved a frequent 
change of residence, and prevented my settling myself down to 
write the narrative. It is true that much time which might have 
been thus employed, and was employed even less profitably, rises 
in judgment against me ; and I can only excuse myself by re- 
ferring to the fact that for nearly five consecutive years I had 
been confined on board ship, and had passed the greater part of 
another year in the wilderness. 

The temptation to idleness, when once free from the restraints 
of military discipline, and in an enlightened and refined commu- 
nity, after such an ordeal, will excuse me to those who have been 
similarly circumstanced, or have sufficient tolerance to 

" Compound for sins they have no mind to.'' 

This explanation accounts, and I hope satisfactorily, for the 
delay in publication, especially as the countries which I attempt 



PRHFACE. vii 



to describe, are not, as with tis, making such gigantic strides in 
progress, that a description will not serve for two or three years. 

As for the subject matter, it must speak for itself. In at- 
tempting to compile a brief history of Chili, I have availed 
myself of the best authorities, and feel assured that in no English 
or Spanish author can the same amount of information be found 
embodied, as none that I have met give a continuous history of 
the country, from its first settlement to the present time. 
' Of my personal narrative I can only regret that it should not 
contain incidents of a more thrilling nature, " which do so greatly 
abound in the works of some travellers," and have endeavoured 
to supply the deficiency by describing, as accurately as possible, 
the manners and customs of the people, the local scenery, and 
the mode of travel. 

As far as regards myself as an author, in the whole list of 
travellers given by Sterne in his Sentimental Journey, I can find 
no classification which embodies exactly my own description. I am 
not- an idle or hixurious traveller (or I should have selected a 
difi'erent field than South America, and one in which I could 
have journeyed with a more especial reference to my personal 
comfort.) Nor an inquisitive traveller^ as I studiously avoided 
the tacit acknowledgement that I came to spy out the nakedness 
of the land by asking impertinent questions. Nor the traveller 
of necessity ^ because the " Lexington" would have conveyed me 
home more economically and more comfortably, without an effort 
on my part. Nor a lying traveller^ if for no better reason, that 
I have not written to support a preconceived opinion, or theory, 
and had no interest to be subserved, by distorting or perverting 
the truth, and that my memory has more retentiveness than my 
imagination fertility. Nor a proud traveller^ because I am not 



viii PREFACE, 



an Englishman. Nor a vain traveller ^ for reasons best known to 
myself. Nor a delinquent traveller^ for I was submissively wend- 
ing my way home in accordance with a sentence of my so-called 
peers. Nor an unfortunate traveller^ unless I can be so con- 
sidered in having met with no great dangers, and hair-breadth 
escapes, with which to astonish my friends, and add interest to 
my narrative. 

Upon first inspecting the list I thought I might perchance be 
an innocent^ or a simjple traveller^ but find myself excluded upon a 
close examination of the qualifications required. 

Unable to decide to what class of travellers I do pertain, I 
must leave it an open question for the decision of the reader. 

J. G. S. 

U. S. Flag-Ship " Germantown," 
Porto Pi-aya, St Jago, Cape de Yerde Archipelago > 



FebriMry 9th, 1852, 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER L 
PORT OF VALPARAISO . . . . . . . 13 

CHAPTER 11. 
CITY OF VALPARAISO . 24 

CHAPTER III. 

JOURNEY TO SANTIAGO 34 

CHAPTER IV. 
SANTIAGO 42 

CHAPTER V. 

SANTIAGO 53 

CHAPTER VI. 

EARLY HISTORY OF CHILI ...... 64 

« 

CHAPTER VII. 

REVOLUTION IN CHILI ....... 78 



COiNTENTS. 



CHAPTER Vlll. 

HISTORY 5INGE REVOLUTION 



Page 



CHAPTER IX, 

GEOGRAPHY GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENTS OF FOREIGN 

AFFAIRS, FINANCE, AND INTERIOR 



111 



CHAPTER X. 

DEPARTMENTS OF JUSTICE, RELIGION, WAR AND MARIN 



E . 130 



CHAPTER XL 



SKETCHES IN CHILI 



147 



THE CORDILLERA . 



CHAPTER XH, 



165 



MENDOZA 



CHAPTER XIII. 



194 



CHAPTER XIV. 

A GALLOP ACROSS THE PAMPAS 



219 



CHAPTER XV, 



SAN LLl: 



238 



CHAPTER XVI. 

A (iALLOl' ACROSS THE PAMPAS . 



250 



X U.N i EN i S. 



XI 



CHAPTER XVIl. 
THE PAMPAS .,,.,,. 259 



CHAPTER XVIH. 

RUEXOS AYTiES ..., = ,,. 273 



CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES, 



CHAPTER I. 



PORT OF VALPARAISO. 



In the month of February, 1849, I arrived at Valparaiso frora 
San Francisco, after a protracted passage of seventy-four days, 
in the United States ship Lexington, a store-vessel or transport. 

Habits acquired by nearly twelve years' service in the navy, did 
not in the least decrease my anxiety to place my feet once more 
on '' terra firm a ;" and although the amiability of my messmates 
had made it one of the least tedious, though one of the longest 
passages which I had ever made, yet there was a feeling of relief 
and satisfaction in once more finding the various comforts, as well 
as luxuries of life, within our reach, which would have convinced 
us, had that link in the chain of evidence been wanting, that 
neither the system of living at sea, nor in our newly acquired ter- 
ritory of California, was in exact conformity with the true nature 
of man. 

Accordingly, the ship had no sooner anchored than three 
fellow passengers and myself, availing ourselves of our preroga- 
tive, as superfluous members of the body politic, had left the ship, 
and were rapidly approaching the shore in a four-oared boat, 
which we had surreptitiously obtained, by bribing the boatmen of 
a gentleman who came on board to call upon an acquaintance. 

The bay presented, as usual, the large assemblage of ships 
which marks it as the commercial emporium or depot of th 
Pacific coast and Islands. 
2 



CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



Almost every maritime nation appeared to have their repre- 
sentatives, and the gaff-ends would have furnished the rough 
materials for a coat of many colours, not only for the patriarch 
son of the favoured wife^ but for his less deserving brethren, and 
half a generation of their descendants. 

Nor were the police of the seas wanting, as, independent of the 
huge black, wall-sided, lumbering armed storeship which we have 
just left, there were many pennants flying in the harbour— Eng- 
lish, French, and Chilian — among which was the flagship Asia, of 
eighty guns, famous for having borne the flag of Admiral Cod- 
rington, at the battle of Navarino ; the French frigate Poursui- 
vante, bearing also a rear admiral's flag ; and the Chili, a forty- 
four, bearing the broad pennant of a commodore, and displaying 
the single star of the Chilian republic. American pennants, too, 
were more than usually numerous, as several transports, con- 
taining the Second Regiment of Infantry, and detachments from 
the First and Third Artillery, had called in for refreshments on 
their way to our still distant territories of California and Oregon. 
Of the four comprising our party in the boat, three had visited 
the port previously, and had volunteered to initiate the fourth 
into the comforts and pleasures of Valparaiso, and had promised 
him a hearty welcome and excellent fare, from our friend and 
host of the Chili Hotel, whose style and attentions had, upon the 
occasion of our former visits, reminded us so forcibly of our own 
country. Accordingly, we asked no questions, but proceeded by 
the shortest route to seek at the Chili^ not only the welcome 
which " mine host " usually accords his guests who are compe- 
tent to pay his charges, but that of an old acquaintance and 
countryman, which the traveller soon learns to appreciate, while 
roaming abroad in the world. 

To our surprise, however, we found, upon entering the house, 
none of that bustle which is characteristic of an American hotel, 
in a commercial port like Valparaiso ; and^ though we listened 
attentively, hoard none of the loud and cheerful conversation 
which marks the proximity of the bar. Surprised, we wandered 



PORT OF VALPARAISO. 15 



through the vacant and open rooms, and finally, meeting ^Yith 
some masons who were repairing the walls, inquired the where- 
abouts of Mr. Thibault, and were civilly informed that he had 
gone to California. 

This announcement, to which we were not so well accustomed 
as we have become since, fell upon our ears with a startling 
efi'ect, as many of our plans had been laid in direct reference to 
the reverse of such contingency. There was no remedy, how- 
ever, but to seek another hotel, and, in order to facilitate this 
search, I inquired for two of my former acquaintances, expecting 
to obtain the requisite information. They also bad gone to Call- 
fornia. Afterwards we inquired for no one, taking it for granted 
that all our countrymen had followed the same course ; and 
when, by accident, we met an acquaintance, it was with a feeling 
of surprise that they had not been swept by the current of com- 
mercial speculation, to the shores of the Northern El Dorado. 

Valparaiso being the principal mart from whence California 
was supplied, all business men were actively employed in ship- 
ments to that desirable but precarious market ; and as our coun- 
trymen appeared, as a general rule, to feel the time lost in shak- 
ing hands a sufficient sacrifice to politeness, we were at liberty 
to make our own selection of a hotel at our leisure, " sans " 
advice and '' sans " counsel on that, to a sojourner, all impor- 
tant subject. • 

Our first visife was to the Star^ kept in the American style, 
with an excellent table and a frequented bar-room ; but it was 
rejected, as the rooms were inferior, while the numbers of 
English and American mariners, who occasionally tarried too long 
over their tipple, gave it a character too boisterous to be pleasant, 
and which the agreeable manners of the host, and his decided 
disposition to oblige, could not counterpoise. The French hotel 
was next reconnoitred and rejected '' for a raison we had," 
which reason, by the way, had reference to an appropriateness 
of the dismal looking cells, by courtesy termed bedrooms, for the 
propagation of certain insects, whose mode of life render them 



16 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



inimical to sleep or wakeful comfort. Upon a fourth essay, we 
found that the Hotel de I'Europe satisfied most of the conditions 
required, and to this establishment, accordingly, we removed our 
bao^o^aoje, after it had underp^one a nominal examination at the 
Custom House. In this hotel, which was kept by a Frenchman, 
we remained during our stay, meeting at the table d'hote some 
thirty well dressed and gentlemanly persons, who appeared to 
represent every commercial and maritime nation. 

The port of Valparaiso has been so frequently described by 
travellers and authors so much superior to myself, that I would 
hesitate in placing myself in competition with them, did I not 
feel that my sketch would be rendered still more imperfect by 
the omission. 

The combination of the two Spanish words Val-paraiso^ it is 
well known, means the Vale of Paradise ; but why it should 
have been applied to this particular locality, has sadly puzzled the 
brains of many who insist upon appropriateness in appellations, 
as the vicinity, so far from fulfilling the conditions which its name 
requires, has really a very sterile and parched appearance. 

The bay, as it is called by courtesy, upon which the city is 
situated, is a deep wide-mouthed indentation in the land, and 
completel}^ open to the northward, whence, during the winter 
months, from June to August inclusive, heavy gales are expe- 
rienced, which render the anchorage insecure. Fortunatel}', 
however, these winds seldom '' blow home ;" that is, they do not 
reach into the bay, yet vessels have to endure a very heavy sea, 
which not only cuts off the communication with the shore, but 
renders their position, at times, one of considerable peril. 

Formerly, accidents were very frequent, and attended with loss 
of life ; but the improvements in cables, arising from the general 
adoption of iron chains, has diminished greatly the dangers of the 
anchorage. 

The water, except close to the shore, being deep, has limited 
the available surface of the bay, which appears very extensive ; 
yet, notwithstanding all these natural disadvantages, which art 



PORT OF Vi^LPARAISO. J7 



has not attempted to remedy, Valparaiso has improved more 
rapidly than any Pacific seaport, and at present contains some 
60,000 inhabitants. Its convenient location, as the first available 
port for procuring supplies after passing Cape Horn, combined 
with the effects of the civil wars, which have for many years 
desolated all the republics lying to the northward, have made it 
an '^ entrepot '' for European and American, as well as Chinese 
and East Indian produce and manufactures, which have been 
exported thence in national or foreign vessels during the intervals 
of peace, or according to the demand in the neighboring markets. 

The Chilian government, aware of the advantages thus derived 
from making Valparaiso a commercial mart, and in fomenting 
their mercantile marine, have adopted a system of bonding, by 
which merchandise remains afloat, or in stone houses, paying 
duties only when entered for internal consumption, and re- 
exportable at the discretion of the owners, subject only to a small 
transit duty. 

The advantages of such a system to the natives and foreigners 
cannot but be important, as the distance from whence merchan- 
dise was despatched to the west coast of America, and the paucity 
of information, prevented the shippers in Europe and elsewhere 
from informing themselves of either the political or commercial 
condition of those countries for which their caro:oes were destined : 
and thus, upon the misfortunes of the neighbouring republics, 
Valparaiso has been built up, and continues to flourish. 

In 1836 the government adopted a policy, somewhat question- 
able in point of morality, to sustain and augment its commercial 
importance, in commencing hostilities against the Peru-Bolivian 
Confederation, which, under the enlightened administration of 
General Santa Cruz, was rapidly developing the resources of 
these countries. 

The far-seeing and intelligent Portales, then first minister in 
Chili, was well aware that the continuance of peace in the neigh- 
bouring republics, which was attributable to the personal influence 
and military force at the disposal of Santa Cruz, must, by in- 



18 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



creasing the commercial importance of Callao^ inevitably deprive 
Yalparaiso of the monopoly of the Peru-Bolivian markets, which 
would diminish its commercial importance.* 

The questionable faith, but ultimately singular success with 
which hostilities were conducted on the part of Chili, will be 
briefly narrated in subsequent pages ; yet, notwithstanding the 
military success, the object of the war was fully attained, as after 
a few convulsive throes, which succeeded the dissolution of the 
confederation, Peru, the most important of the two republics, has 
settled down into a state of tranquillity, under the Presidency of 
General Castilla^ and instead of receiving her supplies by tran- 
shipments from Chili, imports them directly through her own 
port of Callao^ which has a greater natural adaptation to com- 
mercial purposes than its rival. The great increase of pros- 
perity in Peru did not however operate ostensibly in diminishing 
the importance of Valparaiso, as many markets have recently 
been thrown open among the Pacific islands, and on the west coast 
of North America, which have supplied the place of those which 
have been measurably lost ; while within the last few years the 
blockade of Buenos Ayres by the French and English has caused 
the exportations of foreign goods through Chili to the Argentine 
provinces of Mendoza and San Juan to be more important than 
usual. Valparaiso was the first port to derive considerable 
advantage from the discovery of the gold washings in California, 
on account of its proximity, and the fact that a large store of 
the articles required for consumption of the miners was always on 
hand. Upon my arrival at this port the supply, generally so 
ample, appeared exhausted, while many merchants were pre- 
paring to start for JSl Dorado with their remaining stock. Yet, 
notwithstanding the temporary advantage which Valparaiso has 
thus derived, and still derives, from the increasing emigration to 
California, most of which is directed through that port, it will be 

* The decrease in transhipments had already attracted the notice of the 
Government, prior to the impulse given by the great demand produced by 
the opening of the California market. 



PORT OF VALPARAISO. 19 



crushed, and that too within a few years, by a more formidable 
rival, rapidly growing up on the magnificent Bay of San Fran- 
cisco, by which Chilian commerce, which has only flourished 
owing to want of rivals, with equal advantages from contiguity to 
market, will be driven from the Pacific, as her own coasting trade 
can never attain much importance, owing to the limited extent of 
coast, and of the population to be supplied. As emigration to 
California must soon decrease, and as vessels loaded only with 
merchandise, with no unusual number of passengers, will not be 
obliged to call for water or supplies, the people of Valparaiso 
will endure the mortification of seeing their port deserted, and 
find that the " concentrated bustle," which has excited the admi- 
ration of all voyagers, has disappeared, and for ever. As neither 
the exports of the Republic, nor the demand of her limited popula- 
tion, can support the existing state of commerce, such will, in all 
human probability, be the future fate of Valparaiso, as a com- 
mercial port ; and she will thus share the fate of Tyre, Sidon, 
Carthage, and innumerable cities which, built up by commerce, 
have sickened and died, by the diversion of the nourishment on 
which their prosperity depended. As this port has been, for 
many years, the principal station for recruiting vessels of all 
classes, whalers and vessels of war included, all supplies can be 
obtained with facility, and a floating water-tank renders the pro- 
cess of filling up with that necessary, an easy operation. 

From the bay of Valparaiso, we will now cast our eyes towards 
the land, and attempt to describe the city as it appears from 
the water, which view, although singular, is far from imposing, 
and will by no means give a correct idea of its extent and popu- 
lation. The city is built partly on a narrow shelf, at an elevation 
of a few feet above high-water mark, and partly on the hills upon 
which this shelf, or second beach, abuts. The latter are not 
continuous, but separated from each other by ravines, to which 
the name " quebradas," or breaks, is given by the Spaniards. 
To the summit of these hills, which form a first range, and are 
backed by a higher, attaining some 1,300 feet, houses have been 



20 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVIiv^ES. 



erected, some of them in situations which give the strongest 
impressions of insecurity to the mind of the observer. As an 
evidence of the nautical and commercial character of this city, 
it may be mentioned that three of these hills — the whole sides of 
which are studded with houses, and are apparently inaccessible — 
are by foreigners known as the fore, main, and mizen tops, and 
are occupied by grog-shops, sailors' boarding-houses, and houses 
of §till more questionable character. Another hill, the " Cerro 
Alegre," nearly abreast the only wharf which the port possesses, 
is occupied by the habitations of the rich and foreign merchants ; 
and although the ascent, which is principally a flight of wooden 
stairs, is tedious, the view of the bay and lower town, obtained 
from the summit, amply repays the exertion ; while the '* cottages 
ornees," with their gardens filled with flowers, throw an air of 
rural luxury over the whole scene, which we could scarce expect 
so near the busy thoroughfares of a commercial town, and con- 
trasts favourably with the miserable appearance presented by the 
" Tops." The lower town, of course, is the scene of commerce, 
and prosperity having extended its limits much beyond those which 
were anticipated by the founders, it has been found necessary to 
cut away a portion of the Cerro Alegre, to open a street by which 
the old town can communicate with the Almendral, built also on 
the beach, and folio v>/ing the curve of the bay. This portion of 
Valparaiso, formerly a suburb, has become the most extensive 
portion of the city ; and as it displays unfavourably from the 
water, gives a great increase of population for which the casual 
observer is not prepared. The houses of the lower town, which 
are Spanish in architecture, but French in most of their internal 
arrangements, are built of stone covered with stucco, and tiled, 
the flat, or azotea roof, for some reason, not having found favour 
in Chili, as in the Spanish South American Republics generally. 
The streets, though not so wide as in our own country, are 
sufiicicntly so for circulation, and are well paved — a duty with 
which the Government encharges itself, and upon which it 
employs large gangs of convicts in chains, who are guarded by 



PORT OF VALPARAISO. 21 



a portion of the naval briG:ade, or marines, to whom the service 
on the sea coast is confided. The Custom-house, which is near 
the IMole, though not extensive, is well built, with a neat, though 
not imposing interior. On its belfry is a large clock, by which 
the business hours are measured. 

The duties collected on imports in the port of Valparaiso, 
during the year 1845, amounted to §1,326,810, whereas the 
whole amount of duties collected in the eight sea-ports of the 
Republic, in addition to those upon importations from the Argen- 
tine provinces, through the passes of the Cordilleras, was not 
greater than §1 ,353,935, which comparison will give a correct 
idea of the relative commercial importance of that port. Wheat 
in grain, flour, and metals, are the principal articles of export. 
The value of the former, which is of a nae quality, and of a flavour 
unsurpassed in any part of the world which I have visited, I 
have not been able to learn, but it must be very considerable, as 
from this country not only the neighbouring republics but the Pa-? 
cific islands are mostly supplied. During the latter part of 1848, 
the rapid increase of population in California produced an immense 
demand for Chilian flour, which will probably continue to supply 
that market without competition until the circumstances of the 
country permit the iahabitants of Oregon to engage more ex- 
tensively in agriculture. 

The duties upon exports from sea-ports during 1845, amounted 
to $218,970, of which §91,421 were collected at Valparaiso; 
the proportionable difference between the imports and exports 
being attributable to the greater amount of copper exported at 
Chiapo, Serena, and Huasco, which, situated nearer the mines, 
are more eligible points for embarkation. 

The amount of silver exported through the custom-house of this 
port during 1845, was 61,463 marks, while the sum total of the 
exportation of silver in coin and bullion, during the same period, 
was 175,051 marks. 

The value of the gold exported during the same period was 

9* 



22 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



i 
1,762 marks, 353 of which passed through the custom-house at 

Valparaiso. 

As there is an export duty of six per cent, on the precious 
metals, and their value, in proportion to their bulk, affording 
ample apportunities, a large amount must be smuggled out of the 
country, which will always, under the present system of levying 
high duties, prevent the custom-house tables from giving even an 
approximation to the value of the exportation. 

The whole value of the metals exported from the Republic, 
which passed the custom-houses during the four years ending in 
1847 inclusive, was $2,977,343 for 1844 ; $3,853,933 for 1845 ; 
$4,534,596 for 1846 ; and $4,495,677 for 1847. 

The whole value, therefore, of the metals exported during that 
period was $15,861,554, of which $8,483,843 was copper in 
various forms, bar-copper being valued at $6,288,212, and 
copper ore at $1,184,814. 

- Silver and gold, after copper, are the most important mineral 
productions ; and the whole value of the former which passed 
the custom-houses, (an important distinction,) during the four 
years already specified, was $6,494,467, while the latter amount- 
ed to $854,641. 

The sagacity of the government has been displayed by levying 
only one-half per cent, on gold, which, under a heavier duty, 
would afford no revenue. 

The export duty is six per cent, on all other minerals, except 
arsenite of copper, copper ore, wrought and old copper, and 
gypsum. The first two of these articles pay 7 J per cent., while 
the last are free. Arsenite is yet insignificant as an export ; but 
during the four years already referred to, wrought copper was 
exporteA to the value of $63,296, old copper $42,726, and 
gypsum $4,517. 

The sum total of the receipts in all custom-houses in the Re- 
public during the year 1845, including port charges, wharfage, 
light-house dues, municipal charges, deposits, &c.j &c., was 



PORT OF VALPARAISO. 23 



$1,763,739, of which |1,576,263 was received through Val- 
paraiso. 

The total value of imports during 1846 was §10,149,135, and 
in 1847 $10,054,580 ; the greater portion of which entered 
through Valparaiso, and during the same years the exports 
amounted to $6,340,384 for the first, and $7,021,334 for the 
last.^ 

The value of naturalized merchandise exported during the same 
years was $1,744,904 and $1,420,737. 

Note. — The other sources of revenue will be considered in Chapter VIII. 
^ Greatest amount through Serena and Huasco. 



V 



CHAPTER II. 



CITY OF VALPARAISO. 



The public buildings in Valparaiso are remarkable neither for 
size nor arebitecture. This is especially the case as regards 
churches, in which it contrasts unfavourably with Lima, a city of 
nearly the same size, and marks the distinction between those 
cities which grew up during colonial times, and those which have 
been constructed since the establishment of the Republic. 
Within the last few years, a very pretty theatre has been built, 
about equal size, though superior in decoration, to the old Park, 
in New York. Upon the occasion of two former visits in 1846 
and '48, I found a very respectable Italian opera troupe, which 
makes its head-quarters at this place, performing occasionally at 
Santiago, Copiapo, and even at times extending its operations 
up the coast as far as Lima. Upon the occasion of this visit, as 
the opera troupe was at Copiapo, its place was supplied by a 
good dramatic company and " cor'ps de ballet ^"^"^ the latter, I think, . 
superior to any stock company which I have seen elsewhere. 
Among the plays represented, which were generally of Chilian 
origin, and quite recent, numerous allusions were made to Califor- 
nia, which invariably produced plaudits from the audience, and illus- 
trated the enthusiasm which has caused so many natives and stran- 
gers in this, and other parts of the Republic, to emigrate to that de- 
sirable region — an emigration, which, during my stay in the country, 
amounted to two hundred and fifty in a single day, and by one ves- 
sel. This theatre has all the arrangements of a European opera- 



CITY OF VALPARAISO. 55 



house, and an invariably well-dressed and well-behaved audience. 
In the boxes and lobbies, I met with many Chilian officers, both 
of the army and navy, and was struck, as I have been before, by 
the contrast in their personal appearance to all South Americans 
that I have seen hitherto. Their complexions are as fair as the 
English, while they possess the same healthy colour and rotun- 
dity of figure. In uniform, which they wear invariably, that of 
the army appears to have been copied after the French, while 
that of the navy closely resembles the English. So closely, in- 
deed, that taken in connection with their personal appearance, I 
have often found myself at a loss to decide to which navy they 
belonge duntil close enough to recognise the button. If there was 
a difference obvious to the superficial observer, it was that the Chili- 
ans were better dressed and more polite in their deportment, and 
less frequently under the influence of strong drink than those 
they have adopted as their prototypes. To gratify the public 
fondness for dancing, the theatre is frequently fitted as a ball- 
room, by extending the stage over the orchestra and parquette, 
and upon these occasions the scene is gay and novel to one un- 
accustomed to the Spanish masked balls. I attended one while 
in Valparaiso, there, in common with some hundreds of others, 
and cannot but commend the order and good behaviour of all 
present. The women were generally very well dressed, and they, 
as the men also, in opera or ball costume. The music was excel- 
lent, and the dancing of course good, as all Spaniards and their 
, descendants dance well and gracefully. I can scarcely enumerate 
the dances, waltzes, and gallops, which I witnessed, but what I 
enjoyed the most was the national dance, '' Savia Cueca^^^ which 
has been so frequently described by travellers and voyagers. 

There appears, by the way, to be an erroneous impres- 
sion existing among many who have alluded to this dance, 
that it is indecent, — an impression arising from the fact of 
their having seen it only at the fandango and among the 
lowest class of people. There, it, as well as most other 
dances, is certainly far from modest, but when the " Sama 



26 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



Cutca^'^ is danced, as I have frequently seen it, among the most 
respectable people in Chili and the other side of the CordUhras^ 
it is as pleasing and more expressive than any other dance I have 
seen, and tenfold more so than either the waltz or the sensual 
polka, which has attained so high a degree of popularity in 
Europe and both Americas. The masked males at these balls, 
which occur almost weekly, comprise many of the most respect- 
able persons in Valparaiso ; for the masked females I cannot say 
so much, and from what I saw and heard, am afraid that the ma- 
jority were of that class which so much abound in frequented sea- 
ports, and ''not so good as they ought to be." The better class 
of women, however, do not deprive themselves of the amusements 
of the evening, being perfectly safe from annoyance owing to the 
efficient police ; and although they do n )t mask, or join in the 
dances, are found seated in the boxes, where they enjoy the gay 
scene which is passing around them, which is more amusing, as 
every individual, upon adopting a costume, makes the same effort 
to support the character as if upon the stage performing for an 
audience. This fact, upon the occasion of the ball which I at- 
tended, narrowly escaped being the cause of a serious difficulty, 
as one of my friends, who was masked, was once or twice par- 
tially tripped, while waltzing, by an active young lad, who personi- 
fied the juggler, and being indignant thereat, took his partner to 
her seat, and watched for his tormentor. It was not lono- before 
he saw him in the act of throwing himself at length upon the 
stage to trip a pair who were waltzing. My friend had him by 
the collar in an instant, and gave him a shaking which was likely 
to drive all juggling tricks from his mind for a season, at the 
same time explaining his offence to the bystanders in the most 
fluent but not the most classical Spanish. Fearful of a scene, 
the terminus of which my imagination suggested would be the 
watch-house at least, if not the town jail, I interposed, and after 
some explanation, the whole matter was settled as a mistake, the 
harlequin kindly overlooking the shaking to which his tricks had 
subjected him. It had, however, a good effect upon him, as he at- 



CITY OF VALPARAISO. ] 27 



tempted no more pranks with the waltzers. Though he knew his 
countrymen would submit to it, as an immemorial custom, he did 
not feel certain, that as all the dancers were masked, he might not 
rouse another foreigner who might treat him even more roughly 
than the first. The police of Valparaiso has deservedly received 
the encomiums of all recent travellers. Its organization assimi- 
lates to the military, and its members are armed and distinguished 
by uniform, though entirely independent of the army, and under 
the control of the municipal authorities. The uniform and arms 
have given offence to some over sensitive writers, who mistake 
the shadow of liberty for the substance ; but for my own part, 
should I wish to exercise my prerogative as a free and independent 
citizen by making a row in the streets, I should infinitely prefer 
a collision with a police force armed with swords, which are never 
used except in cases of emergency, than with the batons, maces, 
persuaders, etc., of our own country, which are used unsparingly 
and unnecessarily. 

The effective force, independent of the staff, at the period of 
my visit, was thirty-four foot and twenty-eight horsemen.^ 

* The uniform of the police seems to have given offence to the fastidious 
Concimander Wilkes, in vi^hose Exploring Expedition narrative appear the 
following opinions, which follow upon a panegyric upon their corps : " It is 
to be regretted that this police should continue to wear the military uni- 
form, as it seems unbecoming in a republican form of government; at least 
we thought so.'" — Vol, i. p. 169. 

It is a subject worthy of remark, the number of customs vrhich American 
travellers, and I regret to say, American officers especially, find iu foreign 
countries, which conflict with their highly- wrought republican tendencies. 
The uniform of the Chilian police is intended, and serves admirably as a dis- 
tinguishing mark by which they may be known, and called upon when their 
services are required, and even Commander Wilkes testifies to their general 
usefulness. Their uniform, notwithstanding the high authority quoted, is 
not a military uniform, as it is not worn by men pertaining to a military 
7>rofession. Why does not our author object also to the uniform of 
his own profession, which has the same object in view, viz., to designate 
the profession and rank of its wearer ? I would also like to inquire whic 
is the most republican, to have the municipal agents distinguished by a un 



28 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



Among the most interesting objects which I saw during my 
week's stay in Valparaiso, were the American transports convey- 
ing the 2d Infantry and detachments of the 1st and 3d Artillery, 
on their way to garrison our new possessions in Oregon and Cali- 
fornia. The streets are crowded with the soldiers on liberty, in 
their neat undress uniform. Their deportment was good, it 

form, so that aggrieved citizens may call upon them for their assistance and 
culpable citizens may avoid their neighbourhood, or a secret police undistin- 
guishable by the citizens at large, and which is frequently no more than an 
extended system of espionage of the rulers. While upon this subject, I 
would refer the reader who may be curious in tracing out the consistency of 
ultra-republican prejudices, to a letter addressed to Commander Wilkes, and 
numbered xxxviii. in the appendix to his first volume, by his officers, asking 
his mercy upon certain offenders who had merited his displeasure by being 
engaged in a duel. It contains the following expressions which we consider 
'' unbecoming in a republican form of government, — at least we thought so.' 
" We the undersigned, &c., &c., under your command, respectfully take the 
liberty of addressing you on the subject of those officers who have incurred 
your displeasure in consequence of having been engaged in a duel, and whom 
it is understood you intend sending to the United States with a recommenda- 
tion to the proper authority that they may be dismissed the service. We 
are very far from arrogating to ourselves the right of discussing the propriety 
of any course you may think proper to adopt, &c., &c.," followed by, " and that 
the decided expression of your displeasure will be sufficient to deter others 
from the commission of a similar error, &c., &c.'^ 

The letter wants nothing save the preamble, " if we might speak and yet 
live^'^ to be as pretty a form for a petition to an Eastern despot, as ever yet 
came under my notice ; yet so far from its having roused the republican 
spleen of our critic on foreign encroachments upon republican simplicity, in 
his general order he graciously accedes to the request contained in this re- 
markable application. Every one will commend the spirit which actuated 
the memorial, though few will approve its style. If the officers in whose 
favour it was written had violated the regulations of the navy, the com- 
mander had power to punish or pardon, limited by the provisions of said 
regulations, and his displeasure had nothing whatever to do with the subject. 
Had some of our naval commanders, like the Roman Proetor Caius Ver- 
res, a Cicero to bring them before the bar of public opinion, for their own 
arbitrary acts while abroad, they would not offer an outrage to the good sense 
of their countrymen, by strictures upon a police uniform as repugnant to 
their delicate sense of the proprieties of republicanism. 



CITY OF VALPARAISO. 29 



being a rare occurrence to see one guilty of intoxication, a habit 
to which soldiers are so frequently addicted, and in which they 
are more than usually liable to indulge, after coming from a long 
sea-voyage. As this was the first considerable body of American 
troops which had passed through Valparaiso, they excited much 
attention, while the erect bearing, soldier-like appearance, and 
handsome, though plain uniform of the officers, excited universal 
admiration, especially among the Chilian ladies. I saw a great 
deal of the officers, particularly those belonging to the detach- 
ments from the two regiments of artillery, during my stay, and my 
preconceived ideas of the heroes of the Mexican war were cor- 
roborated. Their gallantry and devotion to their country history 
has recorded, and could I in the short space allowed me give my 
countrymen a more just appreciation of the value of these gallant 
fellows, and of the institution which makes them what they are, 
I would willingly devote much time and labour. These were the 
men who had served through the war, and many had left Mexico 
in the month of August, and here I found them in February, 
after a tedious sea-voyage, on the other side of the continent, and 
on their way to the wilds of Oregon and California. These are 
the men who are so frequently accused of being a useless tax 
upon their countrymen by factious demagogues, who are either 
jealous of their superior education and acquirements, or desirous to 
make political capital, by attacking existing institutions. When 
listening to such unmerited abuse, few care to remember the ser- 
vices rendered, not only during the war, but when other citizens 
are enjoying the peace and prosperity in many cases secured by 
their privations and dangers. How seldom in those attacks are 
considered their protracted campaigns in Indian territories, or 
their tedious stays of years at the frontier posts, where they are 
not only deprived of the society of their own families, but utterly 
beyond the reach of all society whatever, except that of their 
fellow sufferers! Their pay is barely sufficient to support them, 
and yet this small sum is made a subject matter upon which to 
found a tirade of abuse. The injustice of the demagogues is un- 



30 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



fortunately at times, and indeed frequently, imitatedjby not only 
the executive, but the legislature.^ upon the principle apparently 
that men who are not educated for a particular profession are 
more competent to perform the duties pertaining to it than those 
who have been. General ofiicers are ferreted out of lawyers' 
offices to command veteran colonels, and even brigadier generals^ 
whose claim for distinction rests not only on thirty years' active 
and arduous service, but upon the gallantry with which, during 
the last war in which the country was engaged with England, 
they encountered more formidable opponents. After half a life- 
time meritoriously passed in the service, which unfits a man for 
civil pursuits, it is too late for the veteran to resent the affront, 
and necessity forces him to degrade a noble and scientific profes- 
sion, by serving under an ignoramus, or at least a man whose 
only claim to his exalted position consists in his political influ- 
ence, or his personal friendship with the Executive. When Con- 
gress, too, votes an increase of the establishment by an addition 
of a reo^iment, instead of availino- themselves of the services of 
officers already in the army, fully competent from education and 
the exercise of their profession for many years, under circum- 
stances which would discouraore most men ; as^ain, the Executive, 
with a view perhaps to a reelection or some other reason which 
I can neither understand nor appreciate, officers the regiment from 
civil life, with no reference whatever to the capabilities of the 
persons thus appointed, but with direct reference to the recom- 
mendations of prominent politicians of their own party, and the 
claims of personal friends who wish to be provided for ; and thus 
officers, who have devoted their lives to the country, expending 
many years in acquiring a knowledge of a profession which re- 
quires time to master, are frequently placed under the command of 
mere adventurers, without education or character ; frequently the 
black sheep of some influential political families, who are thus 
provided for by their provident kinsmen, upon whom Providence 
and the Executive liave smiled. 

Yet notwithstanding these acts of injustice, in themselves 



CITY OF VALPARAISO 31 



palpable to the most humble capacity when properly explained, 
I have never heard an officer in the army complain. They have 
become accustomed to contumely and injustice ; their past ex- 
perience leads them to expect it. One would suppose that the 
Executive of a great nation like our own might be free from the 
influence of this petty electioneering feeling, at least when about 
to leave his exalted station and political life forever ; but, un- 
happily, such does not appear to be the case ; and the last Mes- 
sage of the late President of the United States, near the close of 
1848, would fain give not their due share, but all the credit of 
the brilliant victories gained over the Mexicans, to the volun- 
teers, without alluding to the services of the regular troops and 
officers. This, then, is not the gratitude — republics have been 
conceded as ungrateful— but this is the justice of a republic and 
its chief magistrate, the commander-in-chief of the armies. I 
have no wish to depreciate the services of the volunteer troops ; 
on the contrary, I believe they behaved as well as could have been 
expected during the war, and to them even I would be willing to 
refer the claims of the regular army ; but I would inquire which 
species of force have borne the brunt of all battles in which our 
troops have been engaged — which was the most economical to the 
government at home — which the most useful during the activity 
of a campaign, and the monotony of a garrison ; and which, by 
their deportment, most likely to disarm isolated resistance, and 
elevate our national character, not only in the eyes of disinterested 
foreigners, but those of our enemies } These questions I would 
fearlessly propound to the volunteers themselves, believing firmly 
that men who have gallantry enough to brave the dangers of 
battle and disease, to fight their country's battles, will also have 
candor enough to acknowledge the claims of their companions in 
arms, whose gallantry and discipline it was their highest ambition 
to emulate. Notwithstanding our late President, my late com- 
mander-in-chief, throws the whole credit of a creditable war into 
the scale of our citizen countrymen, it will not be perhaps dis- 
respectful to inquire, where were the volunteer troops at the 



32 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



battles of '^ Palo Alto'^^ and '' Resaca de la Palma ?" — battles 
which gave a prestige to the whole subsequent war. It was only 
when the Mexicans had been beaten, that enthusiasm rose to its 
height, and volunteers crowded in to share the laurels of the 
army on the Eio Grande. Who planned the campaign of the 
Rio Grande t — the assault of Monterey } but an officer, whose life 
had been passed in the career of arms ; and who were the most 
prominent in executing his plans -of attack, but the generals, 
officers, and men, whose education made them most competent 
to understand them } To the artillery of the regular force, who 
supplied their want of numbers by their devoted gallantry, was 
due the success of the battle of '' Buena Vis^a,^^ or ''Angus- 
tura.'"^ For two days the volunteers fought well, with occasional 
exceptions. There was an enemy in their rear, as well as in 
front, which perhaps prevented those who fled from leaving 
the battle-field entirely ; but on the third day, when the com- 
mander-in-chief wished again to display his troops in line-of- 
battle for a last effi)rt^ should the Mexicans again attack them, 
they could not be brought on the field ; and had the contest re- 
commenced, defeat, which had been for two days prevented by 
the efforts of the 1st Artillery and heroism of the commanding 
general, would have been the inevitable consequence. The 
volunteers are said to have been much ashamed of their deport- 
ment for some time after the battle, but finding that public 
opinion and its newspaper exponents had made them heroes, 
they, in turn, assumed the credit of the victory, while those who 
had fought the battle were speedily forgotten not only by the 
public, but by the Executive, their natural protector. 

At the siege of Vera Cruz, the government, instead of availing 
themselves of the services of a lawyer recently transformed into 
a general by executive favoritism, sent the colonel commanding 
the Engineer Corps to conduct the operations, while in all 
strategical as well as tactical operations during the war, it was 
the genius, knowledge, and experience of the educated officer 
which presided ; and it was upon the regular troops that he de- 



CITY OF VALPARAISO. 33 

pended, during the protracted moTements in the field, as volun- 
teers, though by no means inefficient in the face of an enemy, be- 
come totally demoralized in a long campaign, or when confined 
to the ordinary routine of a garrison. 

If the subaltern officers and privates of volunteers, who served 
during the Mexican war, would not, in the event of again taking 
the field, prefer to be commanded by officers belonging to the 
regular military establishment, who would ensure efficiency and 
kind treatment, rather than those selected from civil life, who 
have neither the tact to make the men happy and comfortable, nor 
the knowledge necessary to make them efficient soldiers, I am 
greatly mistaken, and have been greatly deceived by the many 
with whom I have conversed on the subject. 



CHAPTER III. 

JOURNEY TO SANTIAGO. 

On about the IStli of February, I commenced looking out for 
a conveyance to Santiago, and very soon found myself surrounded 
by individuals who were ambitious of the honour and profit to be 
derived from my transportation, as three of my companions, mer- 
chants from San Francisco, on their way to the United States by 
the steamer, had also intended to while away the week which yet 
remained to them, by passing it in the capital of the republic. I 
was under the necessity of contracting for two birlochas, as one of 
these vehicles will accommodate but two persons. After con- 
siderable chaffering, the best terms I could obtain, was at the 
rate of an ounce and a half for each vehicle, being nothing more 
nor less than $52 50 for the transporting four persons a distance 
of ninety miles, over a good road. After the contract had been 
closed, which I did only when I found that nothing better could 
be done, the capitaz or head man left one-fourth of an ounce 
in my hands, as a security that he would fulfil his engagement — a 
superfluous form, as it was too much his interest, or that of his 
employer, to suppose for a moment that he would fail in his 
stipulations. On the following day, accordingly, the two birlochas 
were at the door of the Hotel do Europa some time before the 
appointed liour. An unexpected circumstance, the arrival of an 
old and intimate friend of one of my companions, on his way to 
California, prevented our having the pleasure of his society in 
Santiago, and on the road ; a circumstance which I personally 



JOURNEY TO SANTIAGO. 35 



regretted the more, as he was not only one of the finest speci- 
mens of the American gentleman I had met abroad, but one 
with whom an intimate acquaintance had been the means of ob- 
taining my warmest friendship. Notwithstanding our disappoint- 
ment, we could obtain no reduction on the part of our " capitaz," 
who insisted upon the fulfilment of the contract ; so, after taking 
a kind leave of our friends, whom / was not likely to meet for 
some time, if ever, we started from Valparaiso on our way to 
the capital about 3 o'clock p. m., previously notifying our worthy 
host, that my two friends would return to Valparaiso, and his 
house, at the expiration of a week. Through the streets of the 
city we proceeded at a moderate pace, and with only two horses, 
but as soon as outside, we were joined by another peon, and 
horses enough to raise the whole number to twenty, for the two 
vehicles — eight for each being driven by the extra peon, while two 
only were attached to the carriage, except in ascending a hill, 
when one of the drivers, first sending the horses ahead, wo.uld at- 
tach an extra trace to a rinor in the saddle, and assist in drafrsin^ 
US up the ascent. As, however, this description may be somewhat 
obscure, I will, before proceeding further, describe the birlocha and 
its arrangements, external and internal, as well as its means 
of locomotion. The birlocha, then, is nothing more nor less than 
a rough imitation of the gig used in our own country, though per- 
haps somewhat more strongly built, and more rude in workman- 
ship. One horse is placed within the shafts, upon whom devolves 
the support of the vehicle and passengers, as well as a large pro- 
portion of the propulsive force. Another horse is attached by a 
single trace on the left of the shaft horse, and on him is seated 
the driver, who, with powerful bits, controls the movements of 
both animals. Upon ascending a hill, however, and sometimes 
on level ground, a third horse is attached to the vehicle, by means 
of a trace on the right of the shafts, which is hooked to a ring on 
the girth of the horse belonging to another peon. This trace, 
when not in use, is hooked on to the gear of the shaft horse. As 
the horses would frequently tire during the distance, and relays 



S6 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



not being understood or adopted, ten horses are driven with each 
vehicle, two under ordinary circumstances being attached to it, 
one mounted by the peon, who drives spare horses, and assists 
while ascending a hill, and seven at large. These spare horses 
are substituted for those attached to the birlocha, at various 
periods of the journey. 

We were very far from being in an amiable mood with our 
conductors when starting, nor was our disposition much molli- 
fied at finding that our " capitaz" had supplied the weight of our 
friend, who was left in Valparaiso, by lashing behind the birlocha 
a large box, which he was doubtless conveying on freight to the 
capital, and when just outside of the city, we were called upon to 
pay the peage or toll for the two carriages, which we felt well 
assured, from previous inquiries, should be paid by the proprietors 
of the vehicle. Against this imposition, which was insignificant 
in amount, I made a most steady stand ; but in the end, however, 
it terminated as might have been anticipated, and we were obliged 
to satisfy the demands of the toll-gatherer, whom we had reason 
to believe as great a rascal as our conductors, as he would not 
decide in our favour, when the question of the payment was refer- 
red to him. Leaving the city, we immediately commenced as- 
cending the range of hills by a zigzag road, which was well con- 
structed and firm, though sfceep, — rather too much so, I should 
suppose, to be safe for four-wheeled vehicles.* From the summit, 
which was garnished by divers windmills, whose enormous arms, 
leisurely revolving in the genial freshness of the constant south- 
east trades, gave a vivid impression of the " dolce far niente," we 
had a beautiful view of the bay and city which we had just left. 

As I turned to take my last look of the Pacific, upon whose 
bosom, owing to the caprices of fortune, and those in authority, I 

* This road was constructed by Brigadier D. Ambrose O'Higgins, of Bal- 
lenar, in Ireland, who became Governor of Chili in 1788, and remained 
until 1802, when he was promoted to the Vice- Royalty of Peru, then the 
metropolis of the Spanish possessions in America. To him also is due the 
carriage road from Valparaiso to Quillota and Aconcagua. 



JOURNEY TO SANTIAGO. 37 



iad passed some of the most disagreeable months of my naval 
Career, I could still discern the massive black hull of the old 
'' Lexington," between which and myself was commencing a 
race to Rio de Janeiro. The chances of victory were in my 
favour, as I had several days' start, and had not more than one- 
fourth the distance to travel, while she was by no means noted 
for her speed ; her head winds and calms might be considered 
an offset to my delays on the road. Though I confidently antici- 
pated rejoining her at Rio, it was not without regret I took 
what might be my last look of the now distant vessel, in which I 
had passed some eighty pleasant days, and which contained seve*- 
ral gentlemen, who knew so well how to fulfil the rites of hos- 
pitality, and to make a sojourner's time pass agreeably to him. 

In these feelings my companions sympathized, as none of us 
could part, even for a season, from those agreeable companions, 
without feelings of strong regret. 

The birlocheros of Chili are famous for their skill and 
rapidity in driving ; of this, until our arrival on the summit, we 
had no specimen, as through the city our progress had been slow, 
owing to the police regulations, and in the ascent, owincy to the 
steepness ; but the time had now arrived when we were to be con- 
vinced that common rumour, and the opinions of travellers, had done 
them no more than justice. Without stopping, the spare horse, 
which his rider secured by a single trace to the vehicle, to assist 
in the ascent, was unhooked, and the trace thrown over the dash- 
board, while they dashed off like Bedouin horse and rider, to as- 
sist in driving the spare animals. Meanwhile the driver ws,s not 
idle, but plying his whip on the shaft horse, and his spurs upon 
that on which he rode, and occasionally by a dexterous turn of 
the heel, on the flanks of the other, away we dashed at a gallop, 
up and down the gentle ascents which we met afterwards, no 
pity for the horses, and no mercy for the unfortunate inmates of 
the vehicle, our sole object being to retain our seats, as a shock 
might at any moment precipitate us over the heads of the horses, 
at the furious rate at which we were n9w travelling. Generally 



38 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



both horses galloped, but at times only that of the rider, while 
the shaft horse, which is selected on account of his speed, would 
only trot — an arrangement not only convenient for the beast, but 
for the driver, as on a long journey, as I have sufficient cause 
to know, the gallop is much the easiest pace of the two. Nor is 
it by any means an ungraceful mode of driving, as while the 
shaft horse is trotting rapidly, the horse upon which the driver is 
seated, is prancing by his side, somewhat after the manner of the 
leading horse in a tandem, the length of his trace, and the fact 
of his having but one, allowing that peculiar sidelong gait. 

Owing to the rate of travelling, our observations on the sur- 
rounding scenery were somewhat limited. No one that I am aware 
of, has undertaken the description of a country after traversing 
it in tow of a locomotive ; and cur rate of travelling was some- 
what of the same character, the deficiency in speed being more 
than compensated by the absolute necessity of paying constant 
attention to a more important subject, viz., keeping our seats in 
the vehicle, which was, at times, no easy matter. Passing the 
mills, however, '' en xolant^^^ I noticed a straggling village contain- 
ing some two or three hundred inhabitants ; and owing to a 
glimpse obtained of a sign in passing, was induced to believe that 
its name had some reference to the mills above mentioned. I 
saw also, in plain English, upon a sign in front of a small house 
in this village, a broad Irish name (O'Calligan, I think), pur- 
porting that there was entertainment for man and haste.. The 
country over which we passed this evening was undulating, and 
though thickly inhabited, did not strike me as either very fertile 
or well cultivated, until near Casa Elanca, where we arrived an 
hour before sunset. This village, Wiiich is thirty miles distant 
from Valparaiso, is, according to Wilkes, at an elevation of five 
hundred and ninety-eight feet, and according to the sanip. authority, 
contains five hundred inhabitants ; we w^ere informed, however, 
that it contained more, but as the inhabitants of Chili, in 
their estimate of a town, include the whole municipality, I 
am inclined to adopt the estimate of Commander Wilkes, as 



JOURNEY TO SANTIAGO. 39 



being, at least, an approximation. It is a straggling village, the 
greater portion of which is on a single street. The houses are 
generally well built, each having a garden attached, in which 
Lombardy poplars were the most prominent production. Before 
leaving Valparaiso, we had been recommended to tarry all night 
at Casa Blanca ; and, as an additional recommendation, we were 
informed that the hotel was kept by an Englishman, to whom a 
message was sent, that he might give us a good reception. This 
arrangement, however, upon which we had determined definitive- 
ly, did not accord with the arrangements of our peones, who had 
made up their minds to pass the night atCurucubi, a village about 
six hours nearer Santiago ; but after a protracted dispute of half 
an hour, which terminated only when I threatened to knock the 
" eapitaz " down, we carried our point, and had the vehicles 
drawn within the square upon which the hotel was constructed. 
Our pertinacious persecutor then applied for money to feed his 
horse, himself, and companions, stating that Curucubi was his 
regular baiting-place, and that he had no authority from his mas- 
ter to pass the night elsewhere. Knowing this to be untrue, I 
reminded him of the contract, which he was so pertinacious in 
exactiug while in his favor ; threatened to make him leave the 
freight which he had taken in lieu of the passage for which we 
paid ; finally dismissed him with what sailors term a left-handed 
blessing, and the positive announcement that we would not pay 
him a single cuartillo,*' for either him or his horses, — a decision, 
however, which we were induced to modify, when our host in- 
formed us that it was by no means unfrequent for the drivers 
who were dissatisfied with their fares, to tilt them accidentally 
into some ditch, by which translation, legs, arms, &c., were fre- 
quently damaged. In corroboration, he mentioned a recent oc- 
currence, in which two Frenchmen had been severely injured, 
nor did his announcement that both '' eapitaz " and driver were 
sent to the galleys for the crime, entirely relieve my mind. So, 
as a sort of compromise for our own safety, and with due refer- 

* A quarter of a real j three cents. 



40 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



ence to our dignity and the inviolability of our decisions, I sent 
for the drivers, and, announcing myself perfectly satisfied with 
their conduct, granted to them what we had refused to the 
" capitaz," for whom we did not pretend to conceal our disgust, 
and hinted vaguely, that if their conduct continued to give us 
satisfaction, they might receive some further compensation. This 
was a sop to Cerberus, which I am induced to believe was at least 
prudent ; because these rascals,- riding themselves in perfect 
safety on their horses, have an excellent opportunity of capsizing 
passengers who have made themselves disagreeable ; and unless 
they have been so imprudent as to threaten to do so beforehand, 
with perfect impunity, as it would pass current for one of the 
accidents to which their rapid rate of driving renders them liable. 
Our hotel, which, having carried our point with the " Capitaz," 
and " laid out an anchor to windward" for our future security, 
we had now leisure to examine, was an extensive edifice, or rather 
collection of edifices, enclosing a square, into which all vehicles 
were driven and left for security during the night. A large gate 
opening from this square led to a court-yard, into which the horses 
were driven, and where they were fed. All the offices, kitchens, 
etc., belonging to a regular farm-house, are upon this square, 
which, while it possesses advantages in security against theft, 
and compactness in the whole establishment, has, as we had 
reason to believe, before falling asleep, certain inconveniences 
which would prevent our adopting it in a country infested as 
Chili, by fleas. This is the ordinary arrangement of not only all 
the Posados^ or hostelries, in Chili, but of their farm-houses also. 
Although we had left a sweltering population in Valparaiso, and 
though the warmest month in the year, the elevation we had 
attained caused the temperature to fall far below the comfortable 
point, as soon as the day closed ; and we were fain to imitate 
some travellers who had arrived soon after us on horseback, and 
cluster round a really red hot stove. This sudden decrease of 
temperature appears greater than is due to elevation, and we 
were assured by mine host that it was the rule and not the excep- 



JOURNEY TO SANTIAGO. 41 



tion, as we first supposed, and that a fire was kept burning in the 
stove almost every night in the year. Our fellow travellers were 
English, apparently on a Saturday night and Sunday excursion ; 
but though evidently much at home in Casa Blanca and with 
mine host and his family, with the modesty or arrogance, which 
shall I call it ? of their nation, they were careful to show no 
civility to the strangers whom circumstances had thus thrown in 
their way. We accordingly ate our suppers separately, the 
whole group having divided into parties, whom the considerate 
servants, either aware of national characteristics, or having 
noticed the attraction of repulsion, had placed as far distant 
from each other as the long dining-room table would admit. As 
our host was neither disposed to be civil nor to communicate the 
local information he possessed, we had no motive after our sup- 
per and cigar, to keep late hours and accordingly retired across 
the square to a bare-walled, unfurnished apartment, which was 
destined to contain the three of us ; and having in view the fact 
that we were to start early in the morning, we vigorously 
attempted to fall asleep, notwithstanding the practical phleboto- 
mizing to which we were immediately subjected. 



CHAPTER IV, 



SANTIAGO. 



At about Lalf-past two in tte morning we were aroused by 
our over-wakeful peons, whom either the cold or fleas must have 
kept alert during the night, and informed that we must dress, and 
start, so as to reach Santiago before the heat of the day, of which 
we had, on our own account, about as much dread as the French 
philosopher who told the priest that it was useless to attempt to 
frighten him with the flames of hell while he was absolutely 
freezing to death, as it was really so cold that our teeth chat- 
tered while making our toilet and performing our ablutions. At 
length, however, we emerged, and finding both vehicles already 
in the street, we delayed only to pay our bill to the Major Domo, 
and were ofi* at a gallop before the clocks of the establishment 
had told 3 A. M. If it was cold within doors, it was infinitely 
more so without, as our rate of travelling, combined with a smart 
breeze in our faces, chilled us most efi'ectually, notwithstanding a 
heavy cloth cloak which I had taken the precaution to bring, and 
with which Mr. W. and myself covered ourselves while cowering 
in a corner of the vehicle, where we had retired to enjoy the 
mutual warmth arising from each other's persons. As it was for 
a long time dark, we could arrive at no very definite conclusions 
in regard to the country over which we passed so rapidly. We 
observed only, that it was thickly populated, apparently well 
cultivated and fertile, and that the roads upon which we travelled 
were smooth and firm, with no considerable elevations or depres- 



SANTIAGO. 43 



sions, as it followed the course of the valley of Casa Blanca. 
Before it was quite light we had left the valley, and attained by 
a zigzag road the summit of the Cuesta de Lapata, from which 
we had a pretty view of the valley we had just left ; although it 
was yet too dark to derive the greatest advantage from our fine 
point of observation. 

As the temperature was still low, and the horses fresh, we 
ascended the hill at a brisk trot ; and, upon attaining the summit, 
set off in a round gallop, which, owing to the steepness of the 
road, and its height above the valley, into which we would have 
rolled, made our position less agreeable than many which maybe 
imagined. The number and extreme abruptness of the turns, 
which not unfrequently led off from the former course at much 
less than a right angle, gave me a nervous feeling at each one 
as we approached ; and more than once, during our rapid de- 
scent, did I bless the lucky thought upon which I acted when I 
gave the drivers their suppers, and hinted a future recompense. 
As things, however, must have an end, so did my anxiety, and 
the ascent of the hill, after which a rapid gallop of a few miles 
brought us to the straggling, poplar-shaded village of Curucubi, 
where we were to change horses, and perform the more impor- 
tant operation of breakfasting. 

The posada was nearly similar to the last, while the food and 
internal arrangement was more decidedly Chilian. Our new host, 
however, was not a Chilian, but an old Spaniard, and, as he in- 
formed me, a naval officer in the Spanish service during the reign 
of Ferdinand YTI. The prejudices of our host against Chili, 
and in favour of Spain, were strong, even after twenty years' hos- 
pitality on the part of the former government, and utter neglect 
and want of protection from the latter ; yet he had adopted the 
Chilian style of cooking in all its ramifications. Our breakfast, 
in consequence, consisted of the invariable casuila (home-made), 
of which, as the reader will be obliged to eat frequently, if he in- 
tends to accompany me in my journeys, he may be allowed to 
understand the ingredients. The casuila, then, is nothing more 



44 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



or less tlian chicken, or chickens, divided into all the fractional 
parts which the distribution of joints and sutures may permit, 
boiled with salt, Chili pepper, and any vegetables which may be 
at haiid, and served up in its own gravy. Though not rich or 
delicate, it is far from unpalatable, especially as it is generally — 
at least so I found it, spiced with hunger, produced by a long 
fast and exercise. 

As the chickens, upon which we were destined to breakfastj 
were satisfying their own appetites when we arrived, of course 
some time had to elapse before our repast 'was ready ; which time 
we divided between the very pretty and well-irrigated garden, the 
pretty daughter of our host, and his own long stories relative to 
the faults of the Chilians, and the virtues, as well as magnifi- 
cence, of his own country. 

It is a somewhat curious fact, and one which our countrymen 
mi2;ht do well to bear in mind, while writhino- under the abuse, 
deserved or not, of the English tourists, who have done us the 
honour to gain money at our expense, by pandering to the vicious 
prejudices of their own countrymen, that we are, in this respect, 
by no means exceptions to the rule, as the old Spaniard — as in 
the case of our host — will invariably inform the stranger, with 
much self-gratulation, that he\^ not Chilian, not an Argentine, nor 
a member of any other republic of Spanish origin, in which you 
may meet him, but that he is an '' old Spaiiiard.^^ The Portu- 
guese in Brazil also will, after depreciating to strangers the na- 
tion whose hospitality he enjoys in all its ramifications, announce 
with a self-satisfied air, that he is from Lisbon, Oporto, Tras- 
montes, or some other portion of the most contemptible country 
boasting civilization. There is nothing more common, and ap- 
parently more natural, than to find fault with a country in which 
we reside, and draw unfavourable comparisons between it — having 
all its faults before our eyes — and our own, whose faults are 
softened by distance. Of this I remember what I could not, 
with my feelings on the subject, but consider as a remarkable in- 
stance. It was in Rio de Janeiro, ia 1842, I having been de- 



SANTIAGO. 46 



tained late in the theatre, found myself locked out upon my re" 
turn, and not knowing how to obtain entrance, wandered about 
the streets for some time, with a strong idea of putting myself 
under the charge of the guard, in order to secure a night's rest 
under cover. I was not, however, driven to this extremity, as 
meeting a stranger, and announcing to him my situation, inquir- 
ing how it miorht be remedied, he informed me, that he knew of 
no hotel which would admit me at that time of nis^ht, but that 
he was himself in the same category, and hoped to obtain a bed 
by waking a friend in the neighbourhood — in which case a shake- 
down could be also provided for me. We were not disappointed, as 
his friend willingly conceded us a portion of his accommodations, 
making for me a tolerable camp-bed in his shop, and sharing his 
own bed with his friend. A bottle of wine was also produced ; 
and I was exhorted to make myself perfectly comfortable, and 
not to have any fear, as they were not Brazilians^ hut Italians. 
If I had been at all fearful before, which I was not, this an- 
nouncement, made with much self-satisfaction, would have been 
far from re-assuring me, as my estimate of Italians was not very 
high ; and I presume that assassinations and robberies, in almost 
every state in that peninsula, are as ten to one compared with 
Brazil, in the ratio of the population. One of my entertainers 
proved to be a sign-painter, and the other a horse-jockey ; and 
from the morning that I parted from them I saw them no more, 
as the former changed his residence ; but I frequently thought 
of the circumstance, as illustrative of that particular modi- 
fication assumed by our national pride, while we are abroad, and 
the disposition shown by a foreigner upon meeting another, even 
though belonging to a different, and perhaps antagonistic nation, 
to abuse the country in which he resides, and more especially 
when himself a native of a country of which his residence was 
forme/rly a colonial possession. 

At length our breakfast was prepared, eaten, and paid for, 
when we took leave of our host, whose enduring patriotism and 
long stories of the arsenals at Seville, Barcelona, and Cartha- 
3^ 



46 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



gena, had rather disgusted me. I thought the former mis- 
placed, believing that a man owes allegiance not so much to the 
country which accidentally gave him birth as that which pro- 
tects him in his lawful industry, and enables him to fulfil the 
purposes of creation by rearing his family in comfort ; while his 
stories relative to the latter I did not believe, although prepared 
to credit much in favour of those once wonderful dock-yards. As 
we had now fresh horses, we travelled rapidly, emerging at a dash- 
ing gallop from the village of , and keeping the same pace 

as we followed this valley, which resembles that of Casa Blanca, 
toward the Cuesta del Prado, a very considerable hill, which we 
had yet to traverse before reaching the valley in which Santiago 
is siiuated. The scenery in this valley was pretty; and the 
abruptness with which the hills on either side rose from the 
plain, are strongly corroborative of the theory of Darwin and 
others, that these valleys, notwithstanding their great elevation 
above the sea, were beneath its waters within a recent geological 
period. 

The country over which we now passed was thickly settled and 
well cultivated, and, it being Sunday, many parties, male and 
female, were met on horseback in their best bibs and tuckers, 
evidently enjoying their holiday by paying visits to their neigh- 
bours and friends. Both males and females rode well ; and many 
of the latter guasitas^ as they term country girls, were quite 
pretty, and with a good healthy colour on their cheeks, heightened, 
in many cases, by the effect of the sun, which showed that the 
Chilian females are not excused entirely from labour pertaining in 
some countries exclusively to the other sex. I observed farther 
— and the same remark will apply to all the Argentine provinces 
which I traversed — that the women invariably use a side-saddle. 
In this respect it is very different in Brazil, where the women 
ride almost invariably " en cavalier," after the manner of the 
women in France at the epoch of Goldsmith's Chinese traveller. 
I cannot, perhaps, on account of early prejudices, but look back 
upon this as an advance in civilization on the part of Chilians and 



SA^"TIAGO. 47 



x\rgeiitiDes ; nor do I consider this improvement, at least iu 
Chili, as due to the example of foreigners, as I saw many of a con- 
struction without a parallel in Europe, and so ancient in style, 
that one could easily believe them contemporaries of Pedro de 
Valdina, the conquestador. Few vehicles were met during our 
journey, except two-wheeled ox-carts, on their way to and from 
Valparaiso, laden with the productions of the country for expor- 
tation, or foreign goods for the consumption of the interior. 
They are massive, awkward affairs, with little or no iron in their 
construction — a fact observable at a distance, as the creaking of 
the wheels upon the axles marks the absence alike of that material 
and of grease, whicb would measurably modify this ear-piercing 
sound. The cargo contained, is secured from the weather by a 
roof of either hides or thatch, on which is secured the hay or 
forage intended for the animals during tbeir journey. The 
drivers are either on foot or on horseback, armed with a goad. 
The team consists of six oxen under ordinary circumstances ; 
but they are almost invariably accompanied by a second team, 
as a relief, which assists in ascending the hills. All these oxen 
are yoked by the horns, instead of bearing a yoke over the neck, 
as with us — a system not without its advantages, as it enables 
the animal to exert his whole strength without pain or injury to 
Lis shoulders. TThen not required for draught, the spare teams, 
with their yokes, traces, and all their simple harness in its place, 
are secured firmly to the tail of the cart, in which position they 
render eood service in holdino: back, while ascendino; a hill — thus 
supplying the place of locks to wheels, a contrivance unknown in 
Chili, it being, as is well known to the practical, the " nature of 
the beast to hold back" when secured in this manner, with the 
further advantageous peculiarity of holding back the harder the 
faster he may be dragged by the vehicle. Whether this arrange- 
ment is intended or accidental I did not learn ; but, be it as it 
may, it certainly answers that desirable end. It was after ten 
A. M., when we commenced the ascent of the Cuesta del Prado, 
and it was then we found our driver's predictions by no means an 



48 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



exaggeration, as it was intensely hot, and the air, filled with fine 
dust, made respiration painful and difficult. The ascent was 
slow and extremely tedious ; the road, consisting of zigzags, 
which appeared almost innumerable.^ All things, however, have 
an end, and we finally found ourselves • at the summit, rewarded 
with a beautiful view of the fertile valley which we had just left, 
studded with its groves and well cultivated fields ; the deep yel- 
low of the ripe grain on the latter forming a pleasing contrast 
with the bright green of the Lombardy poplars, clustering along 
the road, and frequently forming avenues of great length, reach- 
ing to the farm-houses, which occupy a central position. On the 
other side our view was more extended, and with more of o;;ran- 
deur, mingled with the quiet, rural beauty of the valley we had 
left, and which is so characteristic of a Chilian landscape. 

In the view now opened to us from the summit of Cuesta del 
Prado, which is elevated 2,394 feet above sea-level, we had 
the immense basin or valley of Santiago, enclosed on all sides 
save one by hills of considerable elevation rising abruptly like 
islands out of the sea, there being no debris to give to them a 
gradual slope. Bounding the eastern side of this valley was the 
majestic Andes, standing like an impenetrable barrier, beyond 
which man should not pass. Peaks of the range appeared to 
pierce the heavens, rising to the height of more than 23,000 feet, 
and were covered, for half their height, by a perpetual garment 
of snow, which may, for aught we know to the contrary, have 
been the result of the first snow-storm which fell in this redon 
after the Deluge ; for although judging by our own experience 
in temperate climates, we are given to consider this meteor as 
perishable and temporary, coming and going like our summer 
buds, but in inverse order, here it is as imperishable and perma- 
nent as the rocks upon which it rests. Nor was this valley want- 
ing in the less imposing, though more pleasing, requisites for a 

* The number of zigzags, or caracols, as they are called in Chili, is said 
' •» ninety on the west side of the hill. I did not count them, but can 
'*».dit the statement. 



SANTIAGO. 49 



view of rural scenery, as, like that which we had just traversed, 
its surface was clothed with the green and yellow of groves, 
meadows, and the ripened grain. Our attention, however, was 
soon recalled, at least measurably, from this fairy scene to the 
realities of life, as illustrated by down-hill travelling in Chili. 
The road on this slope diiBfered considerably in construction from 
that which we had just ascended, as, owing to the peculiar con- 
formation of the hill, it required fewer zigzags, and followed for 
the most part a spur of the hill, having the bank on one side, 
and a precipice on the other. Whether its slope was in reality 
greater than that on the other side, which I am inclined to be- 
lieve, or whether it appeared so because we had a large con- 
tinuous extent in view at the same moment, it presented a very 
formidable appearance ; and it was difficult to conceive how horses 
and carriage, after obtaining an impetus in the first descent, 
could possibly stop before reaching the plain below. As usual, 
at the summit, the spare horse was untraced, and we commenced 
our rapid descent; but our shaft-horse, which I afterwards 
learned upon particular inquiry was new and unaccustomed to 
harness, became fractious as soon as the spare horse was taken 
away from his sight. The first zigzag was successfully turned, 
but at the second he forced the driver and his horse so near the 
precipice, that nothing but reining up prevented a visit to the 
valley, some nine hundred feet below. Guiding the horses into 
the middle of the road, we again started to accomplish another 
zigzag ; at the termination of which the same scene was re- 
peated, and a sudden draw-up only saved us. Although some- 
what alarmed by the pranks of this horse I did not wish to dis- 
play my anxiety, but when the same trick was repeated at the 
third turn, and the wheel brought within a foot of the precipice, 
I jumped out, advising my friend to follow my example, as with 
an unbroken horse there could be no safety, and we had not even 
the satisfaction of feeling that the driver must share our fate, 
as he being on horseback would probably escape. My friend 
maturely considered the matter, but, having a new pair of glazed 



50 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



boots ran the risk of breaking bis neck rather than that of spoil- 
ing his boots, although he acknowledged himself in great bodily 
fear. After walking half a mile, the descent having become 
more gradual, and the horse somewhat more docile, I took my 
seat and proceeded safely to the foot of the hill. One advantage 
at least I derived from dismounting, as I discovered the singular 
contrivance by which the drivers lock the carriage in the de- 
scent. The rider of the spare horse had uncoiled the lasso at 
his saddle-bow, and fastening it around the axle of the birlocha, 
it was his duty, and that of the horse, to hold back at steep de- 
scents and sudden turns. Once at the foot, however, we were 
safe, and had a rapid transit over a beautiful and level road, 
through a highly cultivated champaign country, until our arrival 
at Santiacro. 

Approaching in this direction, the capital of Chili presents any- 
thing but an imposing appearance, as it is screened by numerous 
trees, and the mean mud-dwellings which are characteristic of 
this suburb ; but, as we advanced, we found the architecture 
gradually improving, until finally we stopped before a large and 
handsome building, which the announcement of our drivers, and 
that of the sign upon the corner, convinced us was the present 
terminus of our journey — the ''Hotel Ingles," or English Hotel. 
Its appellation and frequent advertisements, which we had seen 
in our vernacular, had induced us to expect English proprietors, 
English style and servants ; but in all this we were destined to 
be disappointed, as we ourselves spoke all the English which 
was spoken in the house. All the internal arrangements were 
essentially French, as was the cooking and style of service ; and 
why it was called the English Hotel I was never enabled to learn, 
unless it was in a spirit of contradiction, because there was 
nothing English about it. As the edifice, however, was one of 
the finest in the city, the rooms unexceptionable, the table well 
supplied, the society select, and finding a strong disposition on 
the part of our host to make us comf)rtable, we contented our- 
selves without being too particular iu our inquiries as to the origin 



SANTIAGO. 51 



of the name. The dining hour was three, that for breakfast be- 
tween nine and twelve, and tea between certain hours during the 
evening, the limits of which I never defiaed during mj stay. 
Altogether the English Hotel was so far unexceptionable that I 
should establish myself there, should I ever return, in preference 
to riskino: a new hotel of which I had no knowledg:e. After din- 
ner we set out to visit some of the lions of the city. The famous 
Alemeda or Caiiada,^ as it is termed, certainly merits its 
celebrity. Its whole extent I should judge to be more than a 
mile immediately through the heart of the city. The width of 
the principal promenade is about forty yards, enclosed by stately 
poplars, planted on a straight line with mathematical precision. 
Outside this, the principal avenue, there are two others narrower 
than the first, and like it, enclosed by poplars, while outside of 
all, on either side of the Alemeda, runs a rapid stream, lacking 
purity and clearness only to be beautiful, and which, as it is but 
a short distance from its snowy origin in the mountains, com- 
bined with the shade, renders the air cool and refreshing. In the 
main avenue seats of masonry are placed at equal distances for 
the benefit of the fashionable evening loungers of Santiago. 
When the picturesque Alemeda is crowded by the beauty and 
fashion of not only Santiago but Chili, I can scarcely imagine a 
more pleasant promenade ; but such, unfortunately, was not the 
case upon the occasion of our visit, as in this capital, like many 
others, it is not thought fashionable to remain in town durins: 
summer, and those who can afford it repair to the coast for 
sea-bathing, or to their estates in the country ; and it is said that 
those who cannot afford the former, and do not possess the latter, 
shut up their houses, and feign the enjoyment of a luxury be- 
yond their means or inclinations. As such innocent deceptions 
are practised elsewhere, it would not be at all surprising that 
they should be practised in Santiago ; and that they are, I was 
assured by several respectable natives, whose official position re- 

• Canada literally signifies a glen, and this appellation is by no means 
inappropriate, although situated near the heart of a large capital. 



62 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



tained them in the city. There was certainly a great dearth of 
female society visible in the capital ; and if I have not described 
the fair Chilians the reader must attribute it to this cause, that I 
have seen few to describe. The occasional stragglers we met 
appeared, like ourselves, strangers who had come to the famous 
Alemeda only from motives of curiosity. 



CHAPTER V. 



SANTIAGO. 



We rose early in the morning of the 26th, and with the zea} 
of new arrivals, set out to visit Santa Luzia, a fort situated on a 
rocky eminence, in the centre of the capital, from the battlements 
of which we anticipated a fine view of the city and its environs. 

We had not been misinformed, and were not disappointed, as 
the whole city of Santiago was laid out like a map before our 
eyes. 

Its tiled houses contrastino^ with the foliaofe of the numerous 
gardens, its numerous spires, and continued line of green, which 
marked the position of the x\lemeda and the Taja Mar, was in 
itself a beautiful picture ; while the ornamental cottages, on the 
other side of the river, approached by long avenues of poplars, 
surrounded by grassy lawns, and embowered in the richest foliage, 
presented a scene of suburban beauty which I have seldom seen 
equalled, and never surpassed. 

But that which most pleased me, was the beauty of the sur- 
rounding fertile and highly cultivated plain, of which we had a 
most advantageous view from this point. Such views reminded 
me of the more cultivated portions of my own country, and 
recalled to my mind a period, before my wanderings over the 
ocean had commenced, when I lived quietly, and in seclusion, 
upon a farm, far from the stir and bustle of the world, and of the 
highly wrought though beautiful descriptions of rural life in the 
English classics, which then entranced my youthful imagination 



54 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES, 



and left upon my memory an impression as indelible as it was 
pleasing. 

Such scenes of fertility and careful cultivation are rare in 
South America, and are, indeed, seldom met with out of Europe ; 
and it is on account of this, the least unpretending feature of a 
landscape, that I prefer Chili, and Chilian scenery, to that of any 
country in which I have sojourned^ while absent from my own. 

As far as the eye could reach in two directions, extended a 
level plain, every portion of which was in the highest state of 
cultivation. Here was a farm-house, peering from among the 
ornamental trees by which it was surrounded, and with a long 
avenue of poplars, by which its approach was marked ; there, was 
an extensive meadow, covered by lowing herds, and contrasting 
its bright green with the li^^ht yellow of the fields, where the 
husbandman was collecting and storing his ripened grain. The 
whole valley was carefully and skilfully irrigated, and impressed 
upon our minds the ideas of industry, wealth, and happiness. 
Nor was the grand and sublime wanting in the landscape ; and 
we had thus at our feet, a large and prosperous city ; near us, 
suburban luxury and taste ; and in all directions around us, a 
beautiful champaign country, whose quiet and repose could not 
but delight the mind at peace with itself, with nature, and man- 
kind ; while above all, at the distance of some fifteen miles ^ 
frowned the colossal Cordillera, its snowy summits glistening in 
the rays of the same sun which ripened the fruits of the earth in 
all directions. 

The fort, which still exists on SantaLuzia, is neither remark- 
able for extent, nor for perfection in military architecture. It 
consists solely of a flagged " terreplcin." and a parapet, with its 
battery of seven light guns '' en barbette." 

Its position would make it formidable only to the city ; and 
although we were informed that it had been erected in former 
times, as a defence against the Indians, it has doubtless been kept 
in repair for the purpose of overawing the capital, which could 
be advantageously battered by its artillery. The guns were old, 



SANTIAGO. 55 



and mounted on superannuated carriages, and its garrison 
appeared to consist of the rapidly increasing family of the man 
who had it in charge. 

One thing, however, in this fort, struck us as new and peculiar, 
which was an arrangement, by which the rays of the sun at raid- 
day, converged by a convex_lens placed in a box, communicating 
with a tube containing gunpowder, fired a gun to inform the inha- 
bitants of the castle of the hour of noon. 

The gun being loaded immediately after its discharge, requires 
no further care until discharged again, as the powder iu the train 
and priming is so secured as not to deteriorate from the effects 
of the weather. 

And thus, every day that the sun shines with sufficient power 
at the meridian passage, the apparent noon is loudly proclaimed 
to the good citizens, the greater number of whom, I doubt not, 
consider its announcement infallible, althouo^h the knowins; ones 
are aware that the sun, notwithstanding Virgil's first Georgic, 

" Above the rest, the sun who never lies," 

can be right but twice during the year.^ 

We availed ourselves of the same morning to visit some of the 
churches, which are always open at an early hour, but found few 
remarkable for the architectural taste displayed in their con- 
struction, though rich in their internal decorations, much gold 
and silver being lavished on their altar-pieces, most of which are 
elaborately carved and gilded. f 

"i^ As a branch of our National Observatory has been recently established 
in Santiago, the announcements of the gun w^ill lose their reputed infallibility. 
If, however, the Observatory should fail in arousing the people to the dis- 
tinction between apparent and mean time, the gun and the chronometer, an 
invasion of Yankee clockmakers will speedily consummate the work. No 
point is so remote in these days of progress, as to afford a refuge tor the 
pleasing delusion of ignorance. 

t The Catholic religion certainly produces one practical advantage to the 
devout, by encouraging early rising ; the Mahometan, also, when the Muezzim 



56 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



The Cathedral, which forms one side of the Grand Plaza, is, 
however, an exception to the first remark, as its architecture, 
though massive and heavy, is imposing, and in my opinion, well 
adapted for the purpose intended. The material of which it is 
composed is porphyry, and its internal architecture is as fine as 
anything I have seen. 

Though enormous in extent, compared with the churches of 
our country, it is not so large as- the Cathedral in Lima, which, 
however, it excels in solidity and chasteness of style. The name 
of the architect of this very creditable work, I did not learn, 
but the plan of the frontispiece was made by an Italian engineer, 
Joaquin de las Tuescas, who planned and constructed the Mint, 
and planned most of the architectural ornaments of the capital. 

Having returned from our visit to Santa Luzia and the 
churches, we took a late breakfast, after which we called upon the 
Charge des Affaires of the United States, to whose politeness and 
hospitality, and that of his amiable and accomplished lady (a fair 
Chilian)*, we were much indebted during our stay. 

After this first zealous effort at sight-seeing, we rested from our 
labours, and I must confess that afterwards, in the enjoyment of 
this pleasant capital, and in the society of our numerous acquain- 
tance, there was so little method in our investigations, that they 
will not bear to be submitted to the severe ordeal of journalism ; 
and I will, for this reason, compress the information we obtained 
into this and the following chapters, without reference to date, or 
to the mode and manner in which it was obtained. 

Santiago has been for a long time, and I believe justly, 
esteemed as the most beautiful South American capital — a dis- 
tinction which it owes in a high degree to its position, and the 
beauty of the surrounding country. It is regularly laid out, and 

calls the faithful to prayers at sunrise, with the words, " God is great/' " God 
is great." " Come to prayers,'^ " Prayer is better than sleep.'' The pow- 
erful influence of the Propbet over his followers is most fully evidenced by 
the fact that he convinced them of the truth of this last dogma, which would 
prove a shibboleth to most drowsy and coaifort-loving Christians. 



SANTIAGO. 57 



the streets sufficiently wide for comfort and convenience) and is 
well paved with small rounded stones or pebbles. The houses, 
which are for the most part of adohe^ or large sun-dried bricks, so 
much used in South America, seldom exceed one story in height, 
which ensures greater safety during the frequent earthquakes. 
The roofs are tiled, while the interior arrangement is that derived 
by the Spaniards from the Moors, an open and ornamental court- 
yard in the centre, enclosed by the various apartments. The 
entrance to this court, in the houses of the wealthy, is by a 
'*porte cochere," while that to the humbler sort is through the 
*^ sala," or principal apartment. The Mint, which was erected 
in 1787, during the administration of Don Ambrosio de Benavides, 
occupies a whole square, and is deservedly esteemed the architec- 
tural ornament of the capital. Its machinery — according to the 
report of a commission appointed by the Minister of Finance, in 
1848, to examine critically into its condition — is antique and 
inefficient. 

In relation to this subject, the commissioners state that the 
establishment has three fly-presses, antique in style, and imperfect 
from continued use — defective in power, and slow in their opera- 
tion. For the coining of ounces and dollars, six men are required 
to manage each of them, while two are sufficient to coin pesetas 
(20 cent pieces) . Each press will coin from 21 to 24 pesetas in 
a minute, and only 15 or 16 ounces in the same interval. They 
state further, that the improved French press, which had been 
provided by the government, was utterly useless, for want of a 
good mechanic to repair it. New furnaces, and presses of a simple 
construction, are recommended by the commission, who consider 
the employment of a working steam engine, and the most 
improved press, as too expensive, and too liable to disarrangement, 
for the existing state of the finances, and the mechanic arts in the 
country. The danger of a largo steam engine is also considered 
by the commission objectionable, unless some skilful foreign 
mechanic is employed to take charge of it, especially as the 
government offices and archives are in the same edifice. 



58 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



A re-organization of the administrative department, and the 
adoption of the system in force in the Mint in Philadelphia, is 
also advised. 

The other public buildings of most importance are the 
Presidential Palace, formerly occupied by the Eoyal Grovernors, 
the Cabildo, and the Museum, all of which are respectable, but 
not remarkable for size or architecture. 

The river Maypocho, which traverses tlie confines of the city, 
is, properly speaking, a mountain torrent, inconsiderable as a 
river, except during the freshets. At the time of my visit, the 
quantity of water in its bed would warrant the appellation of a 
large mill-stream, which indeed it is, supplying the motive power 
to several fine flour-mills, some of which are owned by Ameri- 
cans, in the immediate vicinity of Santiago. It is traversed by 
two bridges — one quite modern, of wood, and the other of stone — 
constructed by D. Luis Manuel Lanartu, during the administration 
of Don Augustin Jaraque, between the years 1780 and '87. 

In connection with the Maypocho is found the Taj a Mar, or 
break-water, one of the most extensive constructions of the 
capital, which was raised by O'Higgins, in about 1790, to prevent 
the overflow of the river, which a few years before had inundated, 
and destroyed a large portion of the northern part of the city. 
Its use is the same as that of the levees on the banks of the 
Mississippi, but it is handsomely constructed of stone in such a 
manner as to form a fine promenade, with an esplanade in front, 
planted with poplars. The Museum, though an unpretending 
edifice, contains a fine collection of all branches of Natural 
History, and especially a good cabinet of minerals. Some 
monstrosities, though certainly curious, might be transferred to 
an anatomical collection without detriment to the Museum, which 
being open to the public, is doubtless visited by many females and 
young persons, whose sensibilities ought not to be shocked by the 
sight of such objects. 

The wall of the principal saloon is ornamented by the shield 
containing the single star of the Republic, supported by a stufi*ed 



SANTIAGO. 59 



condor on one side, and a quadruped on the other, in imitation of 
the national coat of arms. The latter, which is about the size 
of a deer, is believed to be extinct, and some naturalists have 
even considered it fabulous. I mention the fact of the existence 
of this specimen, to convince the incredulous, and to point out 
the opportunity for an investigation. 

The theatre, which I attended regularly during my stay, is 
small, somewhat out of repair, and does not compare favourably 
with that of Valparaiso, where the influx of strangers affords 
means of supporting a more extensive establishment. The per- 
formance, however, was always respectable, and the '' ballet 
corps" remarkably good, as almost invariably occurs where there 
is a Spanish audience and Spanish performers. I witnessed the 
representation of a national drama founded upon the Chilian 
campaign in Peru, in 1839, and terminating with the decisive 
battle of Yungai. 

The theatre being crowded to excess, prevented my having an 
opportunity to judge of the merits of the piece, which, to say the 
truth, *' smelt in my nostrils somewhat too strong of gunpowder ;" 
but one, and I believe the most pleasing feature of the play, did 
not entirely escape me. A vivandiere, finding a battalion 
of her countrymen retreating under the fire of the batteries of 
the Peruvians, seized the sword of a dying officer, placed herself 
at its head, and followed by the troops, whom she effectually 
rallied, carried the position. This circumstance is historical, and 
the heroine of the play, Sergeant Candalaria, who has rank, and 
pay or pension in the Chilian army, was said to be present at the 
performance. 

The enthusiastic reception of this play by a large audience, 
displayed the patriotism and military bias of the people, the 
existence of which has been clearly proved in the history of the 
republic. As in Yalpai-aiso, the upper tier of seats was occupied 
by females, an advancement in the refinements of civilization 
which I have not elsewhere observed in South America, and 



6u CHILI AXD THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



which brings Chili up to our own practical standard of the pro- 
prieties of life. 

Among the acquaintances whom we were so fortunate as to 
make during our stay, was a captain in the general staff, through 
whose instrumentality we obtained permission to visit the arsenal, 
which has been established in the artillery barracks, within the 
city. It contained about fifty thousand stand of arms, admirably 
kept, and tastefully disposed. Iii artillery alone, they were some- 
what deficient ; but it appears from the report of the minister of 
war, which will be hereafter discussed, that measures have been 
taken to supply this deficiency. 

In hotels, the city is by no means deficient, as it has two of 
the first class, which are sufficient to accommodate the travel- 
lers who find their way to an interior city, with little commerce — 
the Hotel Engles, in which we were domiciled, and the Hotel d« 
Chili. The latter is also a great resort for the fashionable, who 
at certain seasons repair to it for the purpose of eating ices made 
from the snow which is amply supplied by the neighbouring moun- 
tains. 

My visit being made near midsummer, the fashionable were 
generally absent from the city, at the springs, at the seaside, and 
on their estates, which prevents my giving a description of the 
society of the capital. I consoled myself, however, for this de- 
privation, and the reader may safely follow my example, by the 
reflection of Goldsmith in his Chinese letters, " That the wise 
are polite all the world over." Judging from my previous experi- 
ence, I should have expected to meet a refined and agreeable 
people, as I have found the educated classes in all parts of the 
world I have yet visited. As far as general morality is con- 
cerned, Santiago is, I presume, little better or worse than other 
cities of its class, and I certainly saw nothing which would war- 
rant, the severe strictures of Sir Francis Head. '' The lower 
rooms" (he says, speaking of women of a certain class) '' of 
the most respectable houses are let to them, and it is really 



SANTIAGO. 61 



shocking beyond description, to see them sitting at their doors, 
with a candle in the back part of the room, burning before sacred 
pictures and images." That such persons are by no means rare, 
is true, but they are certainly respectable, considering their 
position, and never fall so lovr as those of England and the United 
States. In fact they are by no means held to be so degraded in 
Spanish or Portuguese countries generally, as in some others ; 
and a woman, who through want or circumstances may have lost 
her virtue, does not become utterly abandoned, and still retains a 
certain amount of self-respect and outward respectability. 

While this class of people exists, which they have done through 
all ages, since the capture of Jericho at least, it is questionable 
whether the course pursued towards them by the religious 
teachers, and by the public at large in Catholic countries, is not 
preferable to that of our own, by which, to discountenance vice of 
one kind, those who are guilty of it are driven to every to her crime 
in the calendar. 

The markets of the city are well supplied, and held in open 
spaces, where each vendor erects his temporary s(7reen, or tent, to 
protect himself and articles of sale from the sun. The beef is ex- 
cellent, as are also the garden vegetables ; while the fruits peculiar 
to a temperate climate, especially the strawberries, are justly 
celebrated. 

Horses and mules, many of which are brought from the exten- 
sive plains in the Argentine provinces, are cheap and abundant, 
the usual price for ordinary animals varying from seventeen to 
twenty dollars. For two mules which I purchased, I paid fifty- 
four dollars, but have every reason to believe myself cheated, the 
vendor having fulfilled the letter rather than the spirit of the 
sacred text, " I was a stranger," &c., &c. The horses in Chili 
are remarkably well broken, and when mounted, are kept under 
admirable control by their dexterous riders, who perhaps excel 
any horsemen in South America, even the daring guachos of the 
Buenos Ayrian plains, who pass their lives on horseback. The 
distinguished English savan, Darwin, states in his journal of a 
4 



62 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



naturalist, that among other feats of horsemanship, he saw a 
Chilian gallop in a circle so small, that he kept his finger alwaj^s 
on a post in the centre ; and then suddenly reining up his horse, 
he performed, a demivolte, shifting his finger at the same time, and 
continued his career around the post in the opposite direction. 
This identical feat, which displays most clearly the training of the 
horse, I have never seen, but T have witnessed others so remark- 
able, as to prepare me to believe^ almost any thing which may be 
narrated of the^ trained Chilian horse and his fearless rider. As 
an evidence of the esteem in which the guasos are held as horse 
trainers by their transmontane neighbors the guachos, I may 
mention that horses are frequently sent to Chili from Mendosa to 
be broken, and Chilian labourers are always employed for this 
purpose, when it is possible to obtain them, even by the guachos 
themselves. 

For breaking in a wild horse which has never been bitted, the 
rough and cruel method pursued by the guacho may be the most 
effective ; but for his perfect training, 1 have met no one who will 
compare with the guaso.* 

The police of the capital, horse and foot, is under the same or- 
ganization as that of Valparaiso, and appears to be admirably 
regulated. I never saw an instance of any disorder in the street, 
nor any rudeness on the part of the police, but on the contrary 
found them obliging and polite, especially so to strangers. 

With the exception of the theatre, already alluded to, there ap- 
pear to be few public amusements. That which seems to find 
most favor with the common people is dancing. With my two 
companions, and a Chilian officer, I attended a karaaa, a species of 
fandango, where we passed an agreeable evening. The music 

* 111 the narrative of the United States Exploring Expedition, the country 
people of Chili are called ii:nachn^ instead of guasos. . This is an error. I 
am not aware of the derivation of either word, but in use they are kept per- 
fectly disiii)ct,as appellations of very diiferent classes of people. The guacho 
ot the plains is a herdsman, holding all manual labour as beneath him ; 
while the Chilian guaso is a peasant of any kind, and may b ea farm 
labourer, or a miner, as well as a herdsman. 



I 



SANTIAGO. 63 



was a harp and a couple of guitars, the dancing good, and the 
dances characteristic, and unlike the unmeaning quadrilles, &c., 
&c., which distinguish the terpsichorean art in more highly re- 
fined communities. Although the party, especially the females, 
were by no means the most respectable, there was no indecorum ; 
while to us, as strangers, every attention and civility was shown 
by all present. 

During our stay I made an excursion through the suburb on 
the opposite side of the river, in company with one of the Euro- 
pean Consuls from Valparaiso, and found that its beauty, when 
nearly approached, exceeded our anticipations, formed from the 
glimpse which we obtained from Santa Luzia. After passing the 
river we rode about two miles through a beautiful avenue of pop- 
lars, which were planted so closely as to form a complete hedge, 
and passed numberless smaller avenues leading to cottages, 
which were generally some distance from the main road, and in 
the centre of ornamental grounds. 

These cottages were generally of frame, painted white, and fre- 
quently so embowered in the foliage of the surrounding trees as to 
be scarce visible from the road. In the case of one, pertaining to 
a wealthy and hospitable countryman, which I visited, I observed 
that the kitxjhen and outhouses were separated from the main 
building, and so well concealed by shrubbery as to pass unob- 
served, until attention was especially called to them — an arrange- 
ment which found much favour in my eyes, as it doubtless will in 
all those who have, in the course of dining out in suburban cot- 
tages, had their appetites destroyed by the fumes of a din- 
ner, long before it was brought upon the table. After our 
return from this excursion, I concluded that though the vicinity 
of Rio de Janeiro was unequalled in its combination of the sub- 
lime and beautiful, there was a quiet and unpretending beauty 
in these suburbs, which addressed itself more directly to the 
heart ; and that '' love in a cottagt^"^ so much lauded by poets, 
and so much ridiculed by the critics, could not but be desirable, if 
that cottage were one of those which I saw in the neighbourhood 
of Santiafjo. 



CHAPTER VI, 



EARLY HISTORY OF CHILI. 



Chili was discovered by adventurers from Peru, where the 
Spaniards first obtained intelligence of the existence of the rich and 
fertile country of that name, lying to the south, a portion of 
which, it would appear, had formerly been conquered by the 
armies of the Incas, and with which a partial communication had 
been kept up, by means of the great military road extending 
southerly from Cuzco. 

The history of the Peruvian conquest is foreign to the subject 
under censideration, as are also the causes which led to the 
Expedition of Almagro. Both have been placed within the reach 
of the English reader, in Mr. Prescott's elaborate and classical 
''Conquest of Peru." It will be therefore sufficient to remark, 
that after the supreme command had been bestowed upon 
Francesco Pizarro, notwithstanding the efforts of his rival and 
the malcontents composing his party, Almagro consented to leave 
Peru, and seek elsewhere, with a small force, a more brilliant 
fortune in new conquests. 

In the year 1535, he took his departure for the south, and 
entering Chili by one of the passes in the Cordillera, visited the 
present sites of Coquimbo and Santiago, — and even penetrated as 
far -south as Rancagua. Finding no metallic treasure, of which he 
was in search, and tired of battling with the Indians, who were 
not only inveterate in their hostility, but warlike and formidable, 
he returned to Peru, hoping to avail himself of the growing dis- 



EARLY HISTORY OF CHILf. 65 



satisfaction in that country, to place himself at the head of the 
government, by the overthrow of his old companion in arms, and 
leader in the conquest. 

The Excursion of Almagro was therefore no more than a 
Military Exploration of a limited portion of the country. 

The next attempt was more successful, as Pizarro, after the 
fortunate termination in 1539, of civil strife, between his faction 
and that of Almagro, dispatched a second army to Chili, under 
the command of his Maestro de Campo, Pedro Valdivia — a brave 
and distinguished officer, who had learned the art of war in Italy, 
under Gonzalvo de Cordova, the Great Captain. 

The colony of Yaldivia consisted of two hundred Spaniards, a 
large number of Peruvian Indians, some friars, and women, 
together with domesticated animals, intended to stock the new 
conquest. 

Entering Chili, through the pass of Uspallata in the Cordillera, 
Yaldivia followed nearly the same route as that pursued five years 
before by Almagro ; but finding a strong and central place of 
re-union necessary to defend his new colony, he founded, in 1641, 
on the banks of the Maypocho, the city of Santiago, which has 
existed, as the capital of Chili, up to the present time. 

Hostilities continued between the Indians and infant settle- 
ment ; and in the following year, the colonists, disappointed in 
not obtaining the gold which they coveted, fomented a mutiny, 
intending to murder their leader, and return to Peru. 

Valdivia, having discovered the designs of the mutineers, 
intended at first to punish the attempt most condignly ; but hav- 
ing established a civil government, by which he caused himself 
to be proclaimed governor, he contented himself with this 
acknowledgment of his power, and suppressed the mutiny, without 
resorting to capital punishment. With the view, however, to put 
his people in a better humour with their new acquisition, he had 
the mountain of Quillota examined for a gold mine, said to exist 
in the neighbourhood ; which being discovered, the Spaniards soon 
forgot, while extracting its products, their former dangers, mis- 



66 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



fortunes, and grievances. In 1544, he communicated the state 
of the country to Yaca de Cestro, who (Pizarro the Conqueror 
being dead) now governed Peru, and requested reinforcements, 
which being sent him, he explored the coast as far south as the 
Straits of Magellan, in search of good sea-ports. About the same 
time, he founded the city of Coquimbo,in order to possess a port 
through which he could keep up his communications with Peru. 
His next undertaking, however, terminated unfortunately, as, 
encouraged by his former successful explorations, and combats 
with the Mapochinos and Promaucaes — two Indian tribes in the 
vicinity of Santiago — he endeavoured to explore the country by 
land ; but being attacked by the savages, suffered such severe 
losses, that he was obliged to return to Santiago. 

In 1547, Yaldivia visited Peru, where having attached himself 
in the civil wars, then raging between the two parties of the 
President G-asca and Gonzalo Pizarro, to the former, who proved 
successful, he was established in his authority as governor of 
Chili, and returned with reinforcements of men and warlike 
resources, to pursue his conquest. After the return of the 
Governor from Peru, he made consignments of lands to his com- 
panions in arms and the colonists, assigning, also, conquered 
Indians for their cultivation. In 1550, he again undertook an 
expedition to the south, during which he founded Conception — 
a city which was destined to be destroyed and rebuilt many 
tunes, as fortune favoured the Soaniards or their inveterate Indian 
enemies. It was during this campaign, and in the same year, that 
the Spaniards first met the Araucanians, the most untamable of 
all the Indian tribes of either America. 

The information they had previously obtained relative to the 
Spaniards, was, for the barbarians, " casus belli," and they 
attacked them with a force of about 4000 warriors ; and showing 
no unmanly fear of the terrible and novel weapons wielded by 
their adversaries, fought with such fury, that the Spaniards, 
though ultimately successful, were so much discouraged, that they 
folt little inclined to follow, when they had retreated after the 



EARLY HISTORY OF CHILL 67 



deatli of their intrepid chief. Thus commenced a war which 
lasted ninety years, ahnost without an interval of peace ; was 
re-commenced by one party or the other, at various times, even 
since the establishment of the Republic — and yet the Arauca- 
nians remain unconquered. Yaldivia, accustomed to a feeble 
resistance from the effaminafce Peruvians, was surprised by the 
valour and constancy of this new enemy, and saw the necessity 
for a fortification to defend his infant colony ; and scarcely was it 
completed, when the Araucanians, under a new chief, Lincoyan, 
attacked him behind his walls, and at the muzzles of his artillery. 
In this attack the Indians were beaten, a fact which the credulous 
Spaniards attributed to the exertions of the Apostle Santiago, 
whom they saw, mounted on a white horse, brandishing his sword, 
and pursuing the enemy. From 1550 to L553, Valdivia was 
occupied in founding cities, consolidating his conquests, encour- 
acriiio; the arts and agriculture, and in examinations of the coasts 
and the Straits of Magellan, hoping to establish by this route a 
more direct communication with Europe.'^ 

In the same year, Colocolo, an aged chief of the Araucanians, 
actuated by the same motives which inspired Tecumseh in our 
own country, passed from tribe to tribe among his nation and 
their allies, urging a war of extermination against the Spaniards, 
and the necessity of holding a grand council, for the election of 
a chief who mi2;ht control the movements and direct the hostili- 
ties of the combined forces. 

A grand and solemn assemblage nnally met on a vast plain in 
the Araucanian territory, when, after the banquet which in all 
parts of America precedes a council among the aborigines, the 
balloting commenced, and resulted in the election of Caupolican — 
immortalized by Ercilla, in his xlraucano — as their generalissimo. 
Their first attack was directed against the city of Arauco, 
which the Spaniards were obliged to abandon, those who escaped 

^ The first route to the Pacific was by the Isthmus of Darien, to which 
we have returned after a lapse of three centuries.* 



68 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROYINCES^ 



being indebted to the speed of tbeir horses. This pl§se was 
utterly destroyed by the sayages. 

Yaldivia, notwithstanding the openly expressed fears of his 
best oficers, again took the field against the Arancanians, who 
cut his vanguard utterly to pieces, not leaving a single man alive : 
a disaster which still further intimidated the haughty and warlike 
invaders, who had, at length, after a long career of conquest, 
found their masters in this remote corner of the continent. 
Various skirmishes preceded the battle of Arauco, the most firmly 
contested and most disastrous to the Spaniards which had yet been 
fought in South America. The slaughter was immense on both 
sides, and at one time, during the day, victory seemed to have 
declared in favour of the brave and desperate Spaniards, and the 
Promaucaes, their Indian allies ; when the tide of battle was turned 
by the conduct of Lautaro, an Araucanian, page of Yaldivia, who, 
seeing his countrymen routed, deserted his master, and throwing 
oiF his European costume, placed himself at the head of the 
savages, whom he encouraged, by his eloquence and example, to 
make another attempt, in which they were entirely successful. 
The youth was at this time about sixteen years old, and having 
been taken prisoner, had been educated by Yaldivia, to whom he 
appeared sincerely attached, and had never shown any disposition 
to rejoin his countrymen, until the moment that he saw them 
defeated. 

The battle of Arauco was fought on the 3rd of December, 1553, 
and of the whole force of Spaniards and their allies, there escaped 
only tivo Indians, who succeeded in concealing themselves in the 
bushes. The general himself fell alive into the hands of his 
enemies, from whom he asked his life, offering to abandon the 
whole country if it was conceded. Lautaro, who, though his 
patriotism had induced hiai to abandon his master, was by no 
means unmindful of past favours ; and perhaps aware of the 
importance of preserving so important a hostage, used all the 
influence which his signal services on that day had given him 
among his countrymen, to save Yaldivia. But while the subject 



EARLY HISTORY OF CHILI. 



was yet under discussion, an ag^ed savage, with that reckless disre- 
gard for the chief of his own election, which not unfrequentlj 
characterizes men in civilized communities, dispatched the unfor- 
tunate Spaniard with a single blow of his mace. 

Thus died Pedro Valdivia, the disciple of the Great Captain, 
the companion of Pizarro, and the founder of the colony of Chili. 
Although his discoveries and conquests do not wear the same 
brilliant exterior as those of Mexico and Peru, this does not 
detract from the credit to which his brilliant services and 
achievements entitle him. 

The least known and most unpretending among the Spanish 
conquerors, Valdivia was perhaps the best soldier, the most enter- 
prising explorer, and the chief whose character is stained with 
the fewest crimes as Chili, apparently the least important among 
the numerous acquisitions of Spain, has, in the course of time, 
become the best cultivated, best governed, and most flourishing 
of all the Republics which owe their origin to that peninsula. 

The result of the Battle of Arauco was, that the Spaniards 
were obliged to abandon their southern settlements, and flee to 
their fortified cities for refuge : nor were they even there safe, 
as the boy Lautaro, who now commanded a division of the Arau- 
canian army, after defeating the force which the new governor, 
Yillagran, opposed to him, laid siege to Conception, which the 
Spaniards were obliged to abandon, the women and old men 
embarking on board vessels, which were fortunately in the port, 
while the Governor retreated, with the rest of the inhabitants and 
the remnant of his army, to Santiago. Lautaro consummated the 
utter ruin of Conception, which, owing to commerce and the 
mines, had become a place of wealth and importance. 

From 1553 to 1555, the Spaniards enjoyed comparative quiet, 
relieved occasionally by civil dissensions among the different 
candidates for governorship, notwithstanding which, Yillagran 
managed to retain his authority, with, however, only the title of 
Corregidor, in lieu of tliat of governor, which had been held by 
his reo^ularly appointed predecessor. In the latter year, in obe- 
4^ 



70 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



dience to an order from Lima, Conception was rebuilt, and eighty- 
five families transported to it, notwithstanding the objections which 
existed to such course, owing to the peculiar circumstances of 
the country. The rebuilding of this city was a signal for the 
renewal of the war ; and the Spaniards, who were left by Villa- 
gran to check the Indians, were defeated by Lautaro, and the 
city again destroyed, the inhabitants saving themselves by a hasty 
embarkation. Not satisfied with his success in the south, 
Lautaro determined, by attacking the central point of the Spanish 
settlements, to extirpate the race, so hated, and so formidable to 
his own. 

First punishing the tribe of Promancaes, whom he looked upon 
as traitors to the cause of the aborigines, he advanced on Santiago, 
and after two considerable advantages over the Spaniards, was 
defeated and slain in 1556, by Villagran. The death of this 
formidable chief, who could not have been more than nineteen 
years old, was considered of so much importance that it was 
celebrated in all the Spanish colonies. 

The governor nominated by the king upon hearing the death 
of the chivalrous Yaldivia, never reached his destination, as the 
ship in which he embarked, with 600 regular troops, was burned, 
owing to the carelessness of his sister. Alderete, the governor 
elect, and three soldiers, were saved from this catastrophe, but 
he died, it is said, of sorrow and mortification, at Panama, before 
reaching the territory which he was appointed to govern. The 
Viceroy of Peru, Don Antonio de Mendoza, becoming aware of 
this accident, appointed his son, D. Garcia Hurtado di Mendoza, 
to fill the vacant post, providing him liberally with soldiers and 
munitions of war. The new governor arrived at the deserted 
Bay of Conception, in 1557, when the Indians displayed their 
inveteracy, by sallying out in their canoes to attack the ships. 
Repelled by the artillery, they retreated to the shore, where they 
stood on the defensive. After a futile attempt to negotiate, 
Mendoza fortified himself, and sallied out to attack Caupolican, 
whom he defeated, but stained the brilliancy of his achievements 



EARLY HISTORY OF CHILI. 71 



by his cruelty, and added to the horrors of a war of extermination 
by introducino; the custom of mutilating prisoners, v>^hich produced 
terrible reprisals, in which neither age nor sex was spared. 

After a battle, fought during this year, in which victory, after 
a very severe contest, declared for the Spaniards, all prisoners 
who fell into the power of the cruel governor were tortured and 
hung, and, among others, the inflexible patriot, Galvarino, who 
had returned to the defence of his country, notwithstanding he 
had been previously mutilated, by losing both his hands. 

The most important events which occurred during the 
administration of ^lendoza, were a defeat of the Araucanians in 
1557, the re-building of Conception, and exploration of the 
Chilian Archipelago, in 15 58.* In the same year, treason placed 
the daring and indefatigable Caupolican in the hands of his ene- 
mies. His sentence, which was im^mediately executed, was 
shooting to death with arrows, and impalement ; not, however, 
before he received the benefit of a Christian baptism from the 
hands of a priest who accompanied Alonzo Reinoso, the com- 
mandant into whose hands the unfortunate chief had fallen. 
Thus died Caupolican. the greatest of the Araucanians, whose 
long and successful resistance of the Spaniards was marked by 
many traits of a noble and generous nature, and stained bj fewer 
cruelties, than his civilized and Christian antagonists. The pun- 
ishment of this atrocious crime was immediate and sio-nal, as 
Reinoso was attacked^ and twice beaten at Conception, by the 
eldest son of the deceased chief, who had been elected as leader 
of the Indians, in the task of avenging his father's death. So 
closely was Conception besieged, that it must have fallen, had 
not the return of Mendoza from Chiloe, with a larore force, diverted 
the attention of the Indians, who advanced to meet him, and after 
obtaining some partial advantages, were utterly defeated in 1560, 
at a place called Quipeo, where they had fortified themselves. 
Their young leader, Caupolican, died by his own hand, when 

The warrior poet, Ercilla, accompanied this expedition, and, like a trre 
votaiy of Parnassus, left some verses inscribed on the forest trees. 



72 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



resistance had become useless. As Mendoza was relieyed in 1561, 
bis last public act of any importance was an expedition beyond 
the Andes, in which he founded the city of San Juan, and perpe- 
tuated his name by the establishment of Mendoza. 

Villegran, who had been replaced by Mendoza, by urging his 
claims at the Spanish Court, received the appointment of Governor 
of Chili, which he held until his death, which occurred two years 
afterwards. During his short administration, the Araucanians, 
under a new chief, re-commenced the war with great success, and 
destroyed the city of Canete, where they killed a son of the 
Governor. In 1565, liodrigo di Quiroga was appointed governor 
by the Viceroy of Lima, to replace the temporary appointment 
made by Villagran. The interval between his accession in 1^365^ 
and his death in 1580, was marked by no incident of much 
importance in a historical point of view, at this remote periods 
A royal Audience was established in Chili, which deposed 
Quiroja, and was in itself deposed and abolished, when General 
Quiroja was re-established in the government, which he retained 
until he died, leaving as his successor, Rui Garaboa. During 
this period, the war continued against the Araucanians with suc- 
cess, while the island of Chiloe was conquered, and the city of 
Castro founded. 

During all this period, the north of Chili, free from the scourge 
of war which desolated the south, had progressed in commerce, 
agriculture, and the arts, while riches had accumulated, and with 
wealth and security, knowledge had been rapidly disseminated. 

In 1583, the Marquis of Villa Hermoza arrived from Spain as 
governor, with six hundred troops of the line, and opened a cam- 
paign against the Indians, in which he was generally successful. 
He defeated and hanged a half-breed, who, educated among the 
Spaniards, had abandoned them, and became general-in-chief of the 
Indians. During his administration, in 1587, an English piratical 
expedition under Cavendish made a descent upon the coast, but 
were obliged to embark, after sustaining some loss. Among the 
Indian leaders who distinguished themselves, during the adminis- 



EARLY HISTORY OF CHILI, 



tion of the Marquis of Villa Hermoza, one of the most celebrated 
was a woman named Janaques, who fought bravely and dexter- 
ously at the head of the army.* 

In 1593, his administration terminated by the appointment of 
a nephew of the famous founder of the company of Jesus, Don 
Martin Loyola, who was slain five years afterwards in the new city 
of Caya, which he had founded. The death of the governor was 
the signal for a general rising of the Indians, who burnt Concep- 
tion and Quillan, laying siege at the same time to eight other 
cities, killed many Spaniards, and secured an immense booty. So 
great was the terror inspired by these new attacks, that the pro- 
priety of abandoning the capital, and retreating to Peru, was seri- 
ously considered. The new governor, Quinones, who arrived 
from Peru, in 1599, with powerful reinforcements, could not pre- 
vent the utter destruction of Arauco and Caiiete. Valdivia waa 
taken by assault, its houses burned, and even the vessels in the 
harbour attacked, and obliged to make sail to escape. The booty 
obtained by the Indians in this campaign amounted to near two 
millions of dollars ; and to add to the misfortunes of the miserable 
settlers, the Dutch, with five vessels, sacked the Island of 
Chiloe, and destroyed its garrison, but were afterwards beaten by 

^ The Chilians per[)etiiated the name of this heroine, and that of Colocolo, 
two of their most inveterate enemies, by bestowing them upon national ves- 
sels. It is observable that in all the Spanish American revolutions, the Creoles 
professed to make a common cause with the Aborigines, v\. hose injuries they 
ostensibly desired to avenge, apparently overlooking the fact that the in- 
justice and barbarity which they suffered, had not been perpetrated by the 
distant and inoffensive Spaniards of the Peninsula, but by their own immedi- 
ate progenitors. 

The proudest and most influential families in South America are those 
derived from the early conquerors. 

This professed union of causes. was never promulgated in the Northern 
States, w^here the races have never been crossed to any extent. The true 
cause of this different course must be sought in the fact that we are a more 
practical and less imaginative people than the Spaniards. In our case it 
was the mother country which invoked the aid of the savages in the war 
of Independence, as well as that of 1812-15. 



74 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



the Indians, when they disembarked on the Island of Talca. Dis- 
couraged by the terrible contest in which he found himself engaged, 
Qiiinones resigned in 1600, and was succeeded by Don Alonzo 
Rivera, an officer of much credit, who arrived from Spain with a 
reinforcement of troops. Notwithstanding this increased force, 
in 1602 and 1603, the Indians took and destroyed the cities of 
Villarica, Imperial, and Osorno ; and thus, after a contest of -one 
hundred years, the progress of the Spaniards was checked at this 
point, no advance having been made since the campaign of Pedro 
Valdivia. Garcia Ramon succeeded Rivera, and established a city 
among the Boroas, which was destroyed in 1606, and the army 
cut to pieces. In consequence of these misfortunes, which were 
without parallel in the history of Spanish colonization, the 
king ordained that the treasury of Peru should supply annually 
^292,279, to pay and provide for a regular force of two thousand 
men upon the southern frontier of Chili, which decree was car- 
ried into operation in 1608. In the succeeding year, the 
Audience was re-established, which was the most important event 
which occurred until the accession of D. Francesco de Zunisfa, 
Marquis de Baides, which took place in 1641. During this 
period, the war had continued with varied success, and several 
governors had been replaced. In 1612, a Jesuit, under regal 
sanction, and aided by the governor, made an unsuccessful at- 
tempt to negotiate a peace with the Indians. In 1629, the war 
raged with renewed vigour during the administration of Luis de 
Cordova, Lord of Carpio ; while in that of his successor, Don 
Francisco de Laso,in the year 1638, the Hollanders made another 
incursion upon the coast of Chili, but without success, as their 
fleet was injured by a storm, and their troops attacked by the 
Araucanians, with whom they were unable to establish amicable 
relations. The administration of the Marquis de Baides, which 
extended from 1641 to 1647, was marked by an extraordinary 
event — a peace with the Araucanians. Thus in 1641, after ninety 
years implacable hostilities, the temple of Janus was closed by 



EARLY HTSTOPxY OF CHILI. 75 



the policy and sa^racity of a distinguished warrior, who had served 
with much credit in the wars in Italy, and the Low Countries. 

Among other stipulations in this highly advantageous treaty, the 
Araucanians promised to defend the coast against the enemies o^ 
Spain, a provision which soon approved the wisdom of the Mar- 
quis, as the Dutch, having: now possession of a province on the 
coast of Brazil, organized a formidable expedition against Chili, 
and took the port of Yaldivia, which they commenced fortifying, a^ 
the same time endeavouring: to seduce the Indians from thei 
allegiance. In this, however, they were disappointed, as the 
Araucanians and Cancos attacked them with such fury, as con- 
vinced them of the utter impossibility of retaining their foot-hold 
when their savag3 antagonists should be assisted by the Spanish 
troops, now on their route to attack them. They accordingly 
abandoned the port, afcer having held it for three months. From 
the end of the administration of the Marquis of Baides, in 1 64^5 
until 1720, only three notable events occurred to disturb the even 
tenor of Chilian prosperity — an earthquake in the year of his 
retirement, which ruined a lar^e portion of Santiago ; the 
breaking out of the war with the Araucanians, which was termi- 
nated in 1665 by a favourable treaty of peace during: the adminis- 
tration of Don Francisco Meneses ; and in 1720, a revolution 
among the generally peaceable inhabitants of Chiloe, which, how- 
ever, was easily suppressed by the Spanish forces. From 1720 
until ISIO, although Chili was rapidly advancing in prosperity, 
few events of historical importance are recorded, as the specifica- 
tion of the different governors can scarce be considered so, at 
this remote period. The most important event was a war 
which again broke out with the Indians, who were (says a modern 
Chilian historian) "incommoded by the advancing settlements of 
the Spaniards, and vexed by the missions which they were obliged 
to receive, and which gave rise to scandalous robberies." Chili 
was, however, no longer in her youth, and the five thousand troops 
of the line which she could now brinz into the field, speedily 
compelled them to sue for peace. 



76 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



Thus in 1723, after an almost continual contest of mora than a 
century and a half, during which period success was nearly 
equally balanced, peace was renewed with the Araucanians, and 
from that time we find victory always inclining to the increasing 
power of the Spaniards. 

In 1753, D. Domingo Ortiz de Rosas, grandfather of the pre- 
sent governor of Buenos Ayres, and political head of the x\rgen- 
tine confederation, succeeded as governor of Chili, and erected 
several towns, among which were Casa Blanca, already mentioned, 
and colonized the Island of Juan Fernandez, which had been 
hitherto a recruiting station for pirates. 

In 1766, the governor, D. Antonio Gruill de Gronzago, en- 
deavoured to oblio;e the Araucanians to reside in villao^es and 
towns in a social state, which gave rise to a long war, at the ter- 
mination of which by a treaty of peace, the Indians announced 
their intention of having a sort of diplomatic agent, who should 
reside constantly in the capital, and represent their interests. In 
1780, this governor having died, was succeeded by Don Augus- 
tine de Jaurigui, during whose administration much improvement 
was made in the social state of the country, and many edifices 
planned, which are to this day the best efforts of Chilian architec- 
ture. The militia were oro;anized, a coUeo-e was established for 
the education of Indian youth, and the stone bridge erected across 
the Maypocho, which, as has been before mentioned, passes by 
the city of Santiago. In 1787, having been promoted to the vice, 
royalty of Peru, Jaurigui was succeeded by Don Ambrosio De 
Benavides, a contemporary of the learned Abbe Molina, the histo- 
rian of Chili. Darinfj his administration, the Italian enorineer, 
Joaquim de las Tuescas, erected the mint, the finest edifice in 
Chili at the present day, the Cabildo, and made plans also for other 
public edifices, which were built in succeeding administrations. 

In 1788, Brigadier Don Ambrose O'Higgins, a name after- 
wards celebrated in Chilian history, arrived from Spain, encharged 
with the government. O'lliggins was an Irishman in the 
Spanish service, a man of great foresight and intelligence, whose 



EARLY HISTORY UF CHILI. 77 



efforts will be long remembered with gratitude by the Chilians, 
as not only do they owe to him the road from Valparaiso to the 
capital, but those from the same point to Qaillota and Aconcagua. 
Neither must the importance of these communications be con- 
sidered as his only merit, as he taught the people the art of road- 
makincy, and the utility of such communications : and to him in a 
hio-h deo-ree is owinor the fact that Chili has srood roads for 
vehicles, and a disposition to extend them, while every other state 
in South America appears satisfied with the existing mule paths. 
O'Higgins, whose views appear to have been extended, aware of 
the necessity of good communications with the transmontane 
Provinces for commercial and military purposes, repaired also 
the roads in the Andes, and the Casuchas, or houses of refuge, to 
be noticed hereafter, and which are so necessary to those who 
traverse that lofty range of mountains. To him also was due the 
paving the streets of the capital, the building of a fort at Valpa- 
raiso, the amelioration of the condition of the Indians, and, as 
has been mentioned, the construction of the Taja Mar, which ob- 
viates the danger of another inundation to the city of Santiago. 
In 1802, he received the reward of his services in being promoted 
to the vice-royalty of Peru, after which no events of importance 
occurred in Chili until the breaking out of the revolution during 
the administration of Francisco Antonio Garrasco, who succeeded 
to the government in 1808. 



CHAPTER VIT. 



REVOLUTION IN CHILI. 



Many causes combined, induced the Chilians to aspire to 
independence. The Spanish throne had, in 1808, been usurped 
by Napoleon, who placed the crown upon the head of his brother 
Joseph, — a measure so unpopular, that even the victorious French 
columns which preceded and accompanied the new monarch, 
could not enforce obedience to his authority. The heads of the 
government, in the persons of the king and heir apparent, 
were in the hands of the French Emperor, and subject to his 
will; while the Spanish noblesse, dissatisfied with the projected 
regime, established '' Juntas" in various parts of the kingdom, 
among which that of Seville claimed pre-eminence, as the central. 
As these Juntas, alike with the dethroned king, and him whom 
Napoleon had placed upon the throne, claimed the prerogatives 
of sovereignty, it was, in the remote colonies, a matter of some 
difficulty to decide to whom it would ultimately belong de facto ; 
and afforded a fair opportunity, should such be desired, to disavow 
any sovereignty claimed by authorities residing in, and claiming 
obedience by virtue of their positions in the mother country. 
Unfortunately for Spain, she had given cause for the desire for 
emancipation now openly expressed in most of her transatlantic 
possessions. During her days of power and prosperity, she had 
made her colouios only a matter of convenience to the parent 
state, seldom affording them the assistance which they required 



REVOLUTION IN CHILI. 79 



in the hour of clanger, and directing: her sole attention to making 
them profitable to herself, through their revenues, and as supply- 
ing vacant offices, to be filled by scions of her decayed and 
impoverished nobility. All restrictions imposed by ecclesiastical 
intolerance in Spain, had been brought to bear with additional 
force in the Colonies, whom it appeared the desire of the Govern- 
ment to keep as much as possible ignorant of the recently diffused 
opinions then so prevalent in Europe, in respect to religion and 
politics. A state of ignorance, however, which was perfectly 
practicable during the early periods of colonial history, had now 
become impossible, as the colonists, with the increase of wealth, 
had, notwithstanding the efforts of government to prevent any 
from attaining more than a purely scholastic education, informed 
themselves on the theories regfardinor the social svstem, and the 
newly broached relations between the people and their govern- 
ments. The success of the American revolution encouraged 
them to an effort at independence, while that in France, which 
had terrified even the legal authorities in a country so remote as 
China, could not be concealed in the various Spanish vice-king- 
doms in North and South x\merica, whose aspirations soon rose 
to the same independence which had already made the United 
States one of the important nations of the earth. 

Notwithstanding the rigidity of the colonial system, education 
had inspired the Spanish Americans with a desire for travel, and 
wealth had enabled them to indulge it ; and thus they saw the 
changes in empires and kingdoms, to which new opinions had 
given rise, and returning to their birth-places, spread through the 
country an ardent desire for self-government, a thsory at all times 
attractive, and which at that time, more than any in history, 
enjoyed unbounded popularity in the minds of the people. To 
attain self-government, they must first obtain the choice, which 
could be done only by freedom from the dominion of Spain, for 
which her internal commotions, and invasions from without, gave 
a fciir opening. To Spain they owed origin and existence only — 
a claim upon their gratitude, which oppression had long since 



80 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



worn out. In the present position of the mother country, few 
obstacles could be presented to their emancipation, as, contend- 
ing amid war and faction at home, she could ill spare troops to 
act ao^ainst the colonists ; while amono; the latter there was no 
hereditary nobility to break down — no rulers, with personal or 
family influence, to depose, as they were all Spanish — while the 
Creoles, or natives, however great their personal claims, could not 
obtain a prominent position in the government of their own 
countr3^ The humber of troops quartered among them was 
insignificant, in comparison with the population ; and the most 
formidable influence with which they would have to contend, was 
that of Spanish residents, merchants, and others, who had, as 
they considered, expatriated themselves, in order to gain a fortune 
in the colonies, to spend in the Peninsula, which they claimed as 
the land of their birth, and that to which only they owed allegi- 
ance. Th'e desire for independence manifested itself openly in 
1810, when several of -the Vice-Koyalties, disclaiming the legality 
or legitimacy of the authorities in Spain, which attempted to con- 
trol them, established " Juntas," or Commissions, to govern 
themselves, ostensively temporary, until afi*airs should be adjusted 
in the mother country ; but, in reality, intended by the master 
spirits of the movement as a prelude to national independence. 
The resident loyal Spaniards themselves hastened this movement, 
.by denouncing these Juntas as rank rebellion ; as did also the 
authorities, who attempted by force to crush the rising ^disposition 
to think for and govern themselves. A movement against the 
patriots called forth the strength and energy of the ereole popu- 
lation, of necessity the largest portion of the inhabitants, and the 
question became at once a national one. The result throughout 
the Spanish colonies no one is unacquainted with : our province, 
at present, does not extend beyond Chili. 

The first movement in this country owed its origin to an 
arbitrary act of Carrasco, the governor, who, aware of the general 
disaffection, and assured of the leaders, had them seized suddenly, 
with the intention of sending them as prisoners to Lima — an out- 



REVOLUTION IN CHILI. 81 



rage wbich immediately produced a popular commotion, seconded 
by the Cabildo, who summoned the governor before them to 
account for such excess of authority. Instead of obeying, 
Carrasco ordered that this body should be dissolved, a decree 
which, finding public opinion strong in their favour, they refused 
to obey, making at the same time a formal and threatening com- 
plaint against the tyranny of the governor to the Royal Audience, 
who, better acquainted with the feeling of the people, and their 
determination, sent a commission, recommending his concession 
to their demand. 

The result of this interview was, that after having in vain 
attempted to bring the troops to his support, Carrasco liberated 
the suspected persons, and received as his secretary another 
patriot, and was obliged to agree that all his acts, which did not 
bear the signature of this secretary, should be invalid. The 
news, soon after received, of the deposition of the Viceroy of 
Buenos Ayres, caused new agitation in Chili, when the governor 
felt the necessitv of a vioforous movement, in order to sustain the 
royal authority, and endeavoured secretly to collect a body of 
troops, and military resources, by which a counter movement 
might be supported. Notwithstanding his care, the project could 
not be concealed from the Argus-eyed secretary and his com- 
patriots, who immediately held another session, in which Carrasco 
was obliged to resign, and a native of Chili, the aged " Count of 
the Conquest," Don Mateo de Toro, elected to supply his place. 
The troops, in this movement, lent their influence in favour of 
the patriots. The next important step was the organization of a 
Junta of government, which was established in the same year 
(1810), of which the " Conde de la Conquista" was president. 

Aware that the steps already taken would bring upon them- 
selves the whole disposable force of the viceroy at Lima, they 
hastened to organize their government, and form a military estab- 
lishment, in which they could confide ; and with this view, they 
encharged Don Juan Mackena, an able engineer, with the military 
preparations, which, owing to his talents and exertions, were soon 



82 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



in an advanced state. The first of April, 1811, was named for 
the election of the deputies for the general Congress, which was 
prevented by a mutiny of a large body of veteran troops, who, 
dissatisfied with the new regime, had placed at their head their 
former commander, Figueroa, and availed themselves of this 
opportunity to attempt a counter revolution. Fortunately a 
majority of the troops remained faithful, with whom the Repub- 
lican authorities attacked and defeated the mutineers. Fis:ueroa 
was made prisoner, and shot the* next day, while the Royal Audi- 
ence, which encouraged his designs, was dissolved. The attempt 
in the first Congress, which met on the 6th of May, to legislate 
on the organization of the Executive, gave rise to a heated dis- 
cussion, which terminated in the withdrawal of a large number 
of deputies, headed by one Rosas, who protested against the 
Congress in the name of their respective provinces, and retired 
to Conception, intending to establish a government independent 
of Santiago. The Congress, however, continued their labours, 
and formed an Executive consisting of three persons named by 
themselves. On the 24th of July, of this year, a young Chilian, 
Jose Miguel Carrera, arrived in Valparaiso, from Europe, — a 
man, whose talents and enterprise were combined with considerable 
knowledge of the mode by which revolutions are consummated, 
and who was destined to efi'ect great changes in the state of the 
new republic, and eventually to concentrate the whole power in 
his own hands. 

Seeing the existinnr state of affairs, the unskilfuluess of 
the Executive, and clumsiness of a Congress representing various 
provincial interests, he availed himself of his powerful family 
influence, and the services of his two brothers, who were officers 
in the aimy, to organize a military movement, by which a new 
Executive was created, at the head of which he was placed, and 
afterwards to dissolve Conojress, which left him the sole adminis- 
rator of the affairs of the government. His official acts, after 
obtaining power, were of such a character for wisdom and philan- 
thropy, as to cause the means by which he had elevated himself 



REVOLUTION IN CHILI. 83 



to be temporarily forgotten. He decreed a sustenance to the 
clergy from the national treasury, the liberty of slaves, abolition 
of life offices, monopolies, the suppression of useless employments, 
the establishment of supreme tribunals of justice, of schools, the 
organization of the militia, and other measures to develop 
industry, and place the country in an active state of defence. 

Towards the close of the same year, by intrigue, he destroyed 
the government which the dissenting deputies had actually 
established in Conception, where preparations had been made to 
take the field against the legitimate party in Santiago. Having 
now the whole country under his control, he prepared to give it 
a constitution, in which labour he was employed at the close of 
1811. 

The new government, which had now acquired some stability, 
was anxious to propagate the ideas of the age, and to foment the 
spirit of independence, republicanism, and resistance to the 
Spaniards ; and to effect this object, imported a printing press, 
and established a political journal in 1812. The same year was 
marked by a revolution in the remote city of Valdivia, which 
being successful, left no foothold for the Spaniards in Chilian 
territory, except in Chiloe, where the spirit of independence 
never penetrated, and by the arrival of the first diplomatic agent, 
Mr. Poinset, Consul Greneral of the U. States, — '' a great friend," 
says the Chilian historian, " and decided fomenter of our political 
emancipation." 

The events which marked the course of the year 1813, were, 
for Chili, of much political importance, and threatened its poli- 
tical existence. The Viceroy of Peru learning, though tardily, 
the important movements in Chili, decided upon decisive mea- 
sures for crushing their progress ; and with this end in view, 
appointed Brigadier D. Antonio Pareja, Governor of Chiloe, sup- 
plying him the means to place the necessary military force in the 
field against the revolutionists. In February, he disembarked 
2,400 troops at Talcahuano, which he captured, after defeating 
its garrison, and then marched upon Conception, where the 



84 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



garrison capitulated, and were transferred to the ranks of his 
army, which struck terror into the hearts of the revolutionary 
party, to whose misfortunes at this period must be added a 
mutiny on board a corvette and brig of war in Valparaiso, which, 
at a blow, deprived them of the services of their infant marine. 
Carrera, in this emergency, showed himself competent to the task 
which he had imposed upon himself, and hastily organizing a 
numerous army, sallied forth to. meet the enemy, who was direct- 
ing his march on the capital. The opposing armies encountered 
in the river Maule, which Pareja wished to cross in order to enter 
Talca, but was surprised by a division of the patriots, on the 
morning of the 2Sth of April, and so severely handled, that he 
decided on retiring to Chilian. This action is known in Chilian 
history as that of Yerbas Buenas. Availing himself of the moral 
influence of the defeat and subsequent retreat of his adversary, 
Carrera pursued the Spanish forces rapidly, and having overtaken 
them in the Yilla of San Carlos, attacked them with such impe- 
tuosity, that they were beaten, and owed their escape from com- 
plete disorganization only to Colonel D. Juan Francesco Sanchez, 
who commanded during the illness of his general. 

Accomplishing a retreat, Sanchez entered Chilian, where he 
was rapidly followed by the victorious army, now divided by 
Carrera into three divisions, two of which were to close in upon 
Chilian, while the third, under command of O'Hifrsins, was 
encharged with the re-capture of Talcahuano and Conception, 
which he accomplished. The month of 3Iarch was unfortunately 
employed in attempting to reduce the royalists in Chilian, which 
place had been most skilfully fortified by Sanchez, who finally 
forced his enemy to retire to Conception ; while he, availing him- 
self of a central strategical position, was increasing his conquests 
in every direction, having his communications constantly open 
^with Lima, whence he expected all his supplies and reinforce- 
ments, while he intercepted his antagonist's communications with 
Santiago. A gallant, though unsuccessful effort was made by the 
Chilian general to relieve himself from this inactive position, by 



REVOLUTION IN CHILI. 85 



an attack upon Chilian ; but being defeated, he was obliged to 
fall back upon Conception, with his forces almost entirely dis- 
couraged and disorganized. 

The misfortunes of this campaign produced much discontent 
among the people against Carrera ; even that mighty engine, the 
press, which he had taken the trouble to introduce from Europe, 
was turned against the unfortunate and absent chief, who, with 
his colleagues, was deposed by a decree of the Junta, dated De- 
cember 19th, 1813. D. Bernardo O'Higgins, (who was suspected 
of having conspired against his chief,) was appointed general of 
the army, and he, Carrera, believing it for the interest of his 
country, quietly resigned the command. The Junta, which was 
then at Talca, having deposed Carrera, returned to Santiago, 
where they were dissolved by the people, who convinced, as 
many other communities before them have been, that the " wis 
dom of the many" is more than compensated by the single will, 
unbiassed decisions, and responsibility of one clear-headed man, 
had determined to consio^n the duties of the orovernment into the 
hands of a supreme director, the first election falling upon 
Colonel D. Francisco de la Lastra. Meanwhile a successor to 
Pareja had arrived from Peru in the person of General Don 
Gr. Gainza, accompanied by a coEsidirable body of troops, who 
repaired to Chilian to commence a new series of operations. One 
of his parties surprised and made prisoners, the ex-general Car- 
rera and his brother, who were travelling as private individuals to 
Santiago. The operations of G-ainza were generally fortunate, and 
Talca, Talcahuana, and Conception, yielded to his arms, although 
during a brief campaign, he sustained some reverses from the 
patriot forces under the command of O'Higgins and I\Iakenna. 
An armistice attributable to the mediation of the English com- 
modore was signed on the 5th of April, 1814:, which was agreed 
to more readily as neither party had, at the moment, the means 
of prosecuting active hostilities. By the stipulations of the 
armistice, all prisoners were delivered up, but as cessation of war 

accorded at that time with the views of neither party, it was soon 
5 



86 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



terminated by actual hostilities in the month of August, when 
General Osorio arrived with a reinforcement of troops, and an- 
nounced that the former adjustment had been disapproved by the 
viceroy at Lima. The Spanish interest, at the recommencement 
of hostilities, was supported by a veteran army of 3000 men, 
who held the whole of the province of Conception, while the 
Chilians were not only without effective forces, but were again 
divided by intestine quarrels. Garrera, who had been released 
by the armistice, had returned to Santiago, where his influential 
friends effected a pronunciamento, by which the supreme director 
Lastra was deposed, and he again placed at the head of the 
government. The defeated party appealed to O'Higglns, who 
marched immediately upon Santiago, but was defeated, and com- 
pelled to retire by the forces organized by Carrera. A peremp- 
tory summons from Osorio, the Spanish general, to surrender, 
denouncing the severest penalties upon those who refused, effected 
the desirable object of reuniting the conflicting interests, as the 
chiefs began to be conscious of the truth contained in the quiet 
jest of Dr. Franklin, after the signing of the Declaration of In- 
dependence in our own country, that '' we must now hang to- 
gether, or hang separately." As soon as the reconciliation was 
effected between the rival chiefs, O'Higgins took position with 
his troops. at Rancagua ; while Carrera, taught I suppose by for- 
mer experience of the danger of leaving the capital, and the 
largest city in the republic, open to the machinations of his ene- 
mies, took the command of Santiago in person. O'Higgins de- 
fended his post most gallantly, and lost the flower of his arni}^ in 
attempting to prevent the enemy from passing the river, but in 
vain, as he was overpowered by numbers, and so situated that Car- 
rera could not relieve or reinforce him. Finally, after sustaining 
a terrible cannonade for thirty hours, and having lost his best 
troops, there remained no resource but to surrender, or attempt to 
force a passage through the enemy, who had now invested him in 
every direction. Like a brave and desperate man, he chose the 
latter alternative, and cut his way through the opposing force, to 



REVOLUTION IN CHILI. 87 



the astonishment of the whole Spanish army. The patriots had 
staked their all upon the position at Rancagua, and it was lost, 
and with it had flowed the best blood in Chili. No one longer 
spoke of hope ; despair, and escape from their unfortunate coun- 
try, was the order of the day ; and forsome time after the battle 
the passes in the Cordilleras were crowded by the miserable and 
suflfering inhabitants, who were seeking safety in the Argentine 
Provinces, which had been more fortunate in their attempt to 
throw off the Spanish yoke. This movement of the population, 
to all appearance the termination of their aspirations for liberty, 
was but the dawning of a more happy period, when, chastened by 
adversity, they would be prepared to enjoy more rationally that 
liberty to which they aspired. The military excesses of the 
Spanish soldiers at Rancagua, whom flashed with a dearly-bought 
victory, the best efforts of the oflicers could not restrain, and the 
more systematic cruelties practised by the general in confiscations, 
imprisonments, and banishments, it is unnecessary to dwell upon. 
Few rulers have been mild when treating with defeated rebels ; 
and the Spaniards have, at no time in their history, been famed 
for tenderness to enemies so that events in Chili, during her 
darkest hour, may well pass undescribed in detail. The entire 
country again fell under the dominion of Spain ; but while this 
was the case, the conduct of her rulers still farther alien- 
ated the hearts of the people. The Chilian revolution now 
changed its ground, and instead of being confined to her own ter- 
ritory, is to be found beyond the Andes, on the plains of Men- 
doza, where most of her best defenders had found refuge. Prior 
to the attempt at independence, the result of which has been already 
described, the Buenos Ayrian, the most powerful of the new Re- 
publics, had watched, with much anxiety the progress of the war ; 
being aware of their own danger, should Spain, proving succes- 
ful, establish a strong military force in Chili, from whence they 
themselves might be invaded through the passes in the Cordille- 
ras. To obviate this danger the government had encharged the 
provinces ef Cuyo to San Martin^ their most celebrated general, 



88 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES- 



who was ordered to organize and discipline an army, which would 
be competent to repel an invasion in that direction. San Martin 
had but commenced his labours when the defeat of the patriots 
at Rancagua, and suppression of the Chilian revolution, crowded 
Mendoza with refugees from that country. It was the desire of the 
Chilians to obtain their independence, and the suggestions of their 
leaders which probably induced San Slartin to plan and 
execute his campaign in that country, the boldness and success 
of which have given him a reputation second to no South Ameri- 
can general. The refugees were accordingly organized with the 
troops of the Cuyo provinces, and the general-in- chief, aided by 
able men, such as O'Higgins, Las Heras, Necochea, and others, 
dedicated their whole attention to the disciplining of their troops 
and of other warlike preparations. The emigrants, however, bore 
with them to jMendoza the same party spirit which had actuated 
them in their own country. At the head of one party was Carrcra 
and the other O'Higgins, who accused the former of wilfully 
allowing him to be sacrificed at Rancagua. So decidedly 
was this hostility of parties pronounced, and so inveterate were 
the opposing factions, that San Martin felt obliged to take a 
decided stand in favour of one or the other, as his attempts to 
reconcile their conflicting interests had failed, and motives of 
policy induced him to favour the party of O'Higgins, while that 
of Carrera was persecuted, and expelled from Mendoza. From 
1814 until the commencement of ISlT, hostilities were suspended- 
San Martin was organizing an army with which to invade Chili, 
while the Spanish authorities ruled the whole of that subdued 
colony with a severity which prepared the minds of the remaining 
inhabitants for the invasion which they anticipated from the other 
side of the Andes. 

On the 17th January, of 1817, the liberating army moved 
upon Chili. The main body, which took the route called Puta- 
endo, was divided into three columns, commanded respectively by 
San Martin, Soler, and O'Higgins. Besides these divisions, 
ot^^ers followed, which acted independently, and pursued different 



REVOLUTION IN CHILL 89 



routes, being commanded by Colonels Las Heras and Freire, who 
were to enter Chili by the pass of Los Patos, and that near Talca> 
respectively. Two other divisions, which were to follow, had orders 
to enter Chili by the Planchon, and by Coquimbo. It was thus that 
the attention of the Spanish commander was diverted to various 
points of attack ; and uncertain as to the real point of danger, the 
disposition of his troops was faulty, and the consequence disas- 
trous, notwithstanding the preponderance of force, which was about 
seven thousand, while the liberating army amounted to only three 
thousand men. The position of the Spanish general in Chili 
being central, would have given him with this force a great ad- 
vantaore, had he not been aware of the dissatisfied state of the 
country, and that wherever San Martin was able to plant his 
standard the people would flock to it, and soon place him at 
the head of a force superior to. his own. Had this not been the 
case the division of force by the Argentine general would have 
been fatal, as the Spanish commander might have remained with 
the main body of his forces at Santiago, while a few light troops 
increased the natural obstacles of the passes in the Cordillera, de- 
fending them as long as possible, thus embarrassing the move- 
ments of the army ; and even after these obstacles had been 
passed, the Spaniard from a central point could have struck at 
either of the divisions of his enemy while separated, and defeated 
them with his superior force. As this disposition of his forces 
owing to the- feeling among the Chilians, was impossible, Marco? 
the governor, attempted to defend every threatened point, and 
thus his enemy almost invariably presented to him a preponderating 
force. The first battle was that of La Guardia, where the 
Spaniards had availed themselves of a naturally strong position 
near the foot of the Cordillera on the Patos road, and opposed 
themselves to Colonel Las Heras, who, after a severe combat, de- 
feated them on the 4th of February with much loss, and con- 
tinued his march towards the plains of Chili. Necochea, a cavalry 
officer, had also an encounter with an enemy's division of all 
arms, on the 7th, in which he broke them completely by a gal- 



90 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



lant charge. The Spanish leader, Colonel D. Rafael Maroto, 
(recently distinguished in the Christinoand Carlist war in Spain,) 
now becoming aware of the true point of attack, made every exer- 
tion to concentrate the whole royal force at the hill of Chacabuco, 
a strong and defensible pass between the capital and San Felipo 
de Anconcagua, and over which San Martin would of necessity 
pass ; but the great dissemination which had been made of the 
troops before the command was given to him, made this impossi- 
ble in the limited time which the rapid movements of the enemy 
had left him. Before a concentration could be effected on the 
12th February, the enemy were in front of his position, where, 
after some able manoeuvres, the Spaniards were utterly defeated, 
and the road thus left open to the capital. Many prisoners were 
taken, and among others the President Marco, who, with the pub- 
lic treasures, was endeavoring to escape to the nearest seaport. 
Aware of the necessity of rapidity in the movements of an invad- 
ing army, San Martin, immediately after his victory, marched on 
Santiago, where he arrived on the 14th, although it is distant 
fifty miles from Chacabuco. Two prisoners, San Bruno and Yil- 
lalobos, notorious for their crimes, were declared beyond the pale 
of the laws of war, and publicly hanged ; which it would appear 
from the records, were the only acts of questionable retaliation 
-practised by the Chilians who had been so long expelled from 
their country, or by their Argentine allies. With a promptness 
which distinguished all the movements of San Martin, a national 
government was created on the 16th, the second day after his 
arrival in the capital, over which O'Higgins presided with the 
title of Supreme Director. 

Notwithstanding the brilliant successes of the patriots, much 
yet remained to be done, as the Spaniards, under Colonels 
Ordonez and Sanchez — both gallant and skilful officers — con- 
trolled the southern provinces. These chiefs had, upon the 
first intimation of the Argentine invasion, endeavoured to unite 
their forces with the other royalists at Chacabuco; but hearing 
of the defeat of the army under Maroto, before their arrival, they 



REVOLTTTION IX CHILI. 91 



concontrated upon Conception, wliere they were pursued by tli3 
patriot chief, Las Heras, and obliged to fall back upon Talca- 
huano, which had been so strongly fortified as to be almost 
iDipregnable against the defective battering trains of the patriots. 
Notwithstanding the strength of the place, it was immediately 
besieged by Las Heras, when ensued a series of operations, which, 
for daring courage and intrepidity, find few parallels in Chilian 
annals. 

TThile waiting for O'Higgins, who was to assume the command 
in chief, Las Heras repelled a terrible sally made by the enemy, 
who had been reinforced from Lima ; and upon the arrival of his 
g eneral, he headed an assault, from which he would not retire 
without orders, although he had left six hundred of his command of 
a thousand men in the ditches of the work. In this assault, G-eneral 
Bulnes, the actual President of the Republic, served as a subaltern. 
While the siege of Talcahuano was slowly progressing, it was 
determined that the oath of independence should be taken on the 
12th of February, ISIS, when Chili presented herself, and claimed 
admission into the fraternity of nations. 

Meanwhile, San Martin, whose administrative talents appear 
fully to have equalled his military skill, was using every exertion 
to establish a Chilian army, and to recruit, from the other side 
of the mountains, his Argentine regiments, being well aware that 
the struggle for liberty was by no means concluded. Nor wals 
the Viceroy at Lima idle as Osorio : the victor at Eancagua was 
sent with reinforcements to Talcahuano, where, upon taking com- 
mand, he found himself at the head of about 5,000 troops of all 
arms — a sufficient force to ob&e O'Hiedns to raise the siesre of 
that plape, by taking the field against him. San Martin had, 
meanwhile, taken the field, for the purpose of organizing his army ; 
and, after lying a few months in camp, at the Hacienda de las 
Tablas, near Valparaiso, found himself at the head of near 9,000 
troops, in an effective condition, and headed by competent officers. 

Osorio had advanced beyond the river Maule, when he found 
himself, owing to the skilful movements of San Martin, so com- 



92 CMILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



pletely involved by the columns of the enemy, that he could not 
retreat, being completely cornered on the banks of that river, and 
in such a position that he would be obliged to give battle on the 
following day, the 20th of March, to forces so superior, that suc- 
cess could not be anticipated. Calling a council, a surprise was 
determined upon, to be attempted that night, which, owing to the 
fact that the patriots were at that moment changing the order of 
their camp, was completely successful. This surprise was nearly 
as unfortunate for the Chilians as- the battle of E-ancagua, as the 
whole army — except the division of Las Heras, who, upon this 
occasion, obtained his title of the Hero of Cancha Rayada — was 
destroyed and disorganized. 

Again the scenes which followed the battle of Rancagua were 
re-enacted, and the emigration again streamed toward the Argen- 
tine territories, and all despaired of the freedom of their country, 
The advance of the enemy's victorious columns upon Santiago 
commenced upon the 24th of September, 1818. For a time San 
Martin was undecided whether to wait his arrival or retreat upon 
Mendoza, but, influenced by his principal generals, whose inte- 
rests were Chilian, he determined on the former alternative ; and 
having once determined, he threw all the influence of a mind 
naturally powerful, and full of resources, upon the organization 
of a new army, to be formed from the wreck of that he had 
already led into the field — some battalions of which fortunately had 
not shared in that disaster — and from the recruits which, on the 
impulse of the moment, he was able to organize. His camp was 
pitched to the southward of the capital ; and when the gallant 
division of Las Heras came to incorporate themselves with his 
command, they were received with salutes of artillery, and all the 
military honours which could be bestowed — a deserved and judi- 
cious compliment, the effect of which was not only to reward the 
troops of this gallant leader, but to stimulate the ambition of 
others. Having organized his forces, he moved his camp toward 
the enemy, whose movements he commenced to observe ; and to 
prevent the Spaniards from taking possession of Valparaiso, he 



REVOLUTION IN CHILI. 



chose a position on the plains of Maypu, determined, if neces- 
sary, to risk a general battle, rather than permit such consum- 
mation. On the 5th of April, the Royalists made -their 
appearance, and at mid-day the two armies joined in a general 
battle— that of Maypu— one of the most famous which has been 
fought in South America. The Royalists were defeated and 
driven from the field, but again presented a front with their 
infantry and artillery, in the Hacienda of Espejo, where they 
placed their batteries in position to defend the approaches, and 
fortified themselves within the houses. But all efforts to retrieve 
the day were fruitless, as the patriots, flushed with victory, 
fighting for home and their country, and anxious to wipe off the 
stain of the surprise at Cancha Rayada, were invincible ; and 
from this, their last hold, the Spaniards were marched as prisoners 
of war. General Osorio had the good fortune to escape in disguise. 

Thus terminated the battle of Maypu — the Yorktown of 
Chilian independence — as the dominion of the Spaniard was 
destroyed, not to be again restored. Osorio, upon reaching 
Conception, appointed Sanchez governor of the Province, after 
which he dismantled and deserted Talcahuano, and embarked for 
Peru. 

The patriots, however, did not attempt at this time to follow 
up their successes, but turned their attention to the re-organization 
of their troops, and the establishment of a national marine, so ne- 
cessary for the defence of their own coast, or should an oppor- 
tunity offer, for operations against the Spanish forces in Peru, 
which yet remained the central point from whence emanated all 
offensive operations on the part of the Royalists. The first 
exploit of the infant marine — which was placed under the com- 
mand of Vice- Admiral Blanco Encalada, a distinguished artillery 
officer, who had served with credit in the battle of Maypu — was 
the surprise and capture of the Spanish frigate Isabel, which had 
convoyed 2,000 troops from Cadiz. Blanco captured also nearly 
the whole of this expedition, and most of the transports. In 

November of the same year, the famous Lord Cochrane — whose 
5^ 



U CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



efforts in behalf of liberty would entitle bim to a bigli stand in 
public opinion, had not his avarice and selfishness invariably 
destroyed his claims — arrived in Chili, and being employed by 
the Grovernment, hoisted his flag as a Chilian Vice-Admiral, on 
board the '' O'Higgins," the late Spanish frigate Isabel. From 
that time until 1822, this enterprising and skilful seaman gave 
the Spaniards no rest at sea — their only shelter, and that not 
always effective, being under the guns of the Castle of Callao. 
In 1820, Cochrane's squadron, with land troops on board, attacked 
and completely defeated the Spaniards in Valdivia, which left 
the Chilians masters of all the territory pertaining to the former 
colony, with the exception of the Archipelago of Chiloe. From 
1820 to 1822, the assaults of the Chilian squadron, under 
Cochrane, continued against the Spanish cruisers and commerce, 
until the Spanish flag was nearly banished from the Pacific. So 
daring was this adventurer, that he even cut out the Spanish 
frigate " Esmeralda," while lying under the guns of the formidable 
Castles of Callao. In 1820, Greneral San Martin, in his turn, 
aided by the Chilians, weighed anchor from the port of Valparaiso 
with an army of 4,000 men, and soon after landed in the north 
of Peru, where he kept up a series of successful operations in the 
heart of the Spanish influence, until the independence of that 
country was finally consummated by Bolivar and Tuere, in the 
battles of Juniu and Ayacucho, fought in 1824. Active hostili- 
ties in Chili having concluded in 1823, the Directoral Grovern- 
ment, to which the people had submitted during the war, became 
obnoxious, as it was, in reality, nothing more nor less than a 
military despotism, with no constitutional legislative bodies to 
temper its absolutism. The Chilians began to consider that they 
had fought for a free representative government, and not a change 
of rulers ; and the dissatisfaction with the Directoral Government, 
and the disposition to depose O'Higgins, became very general 
throughout the Provinces. The dissatisfaction which caused the 
Chilians so soon to forget the signal services of their most distin- 
guished revolutionary hero, may be measurably explained by the 



REVOLUTION IN CHILI. 93 



chose a position on the plains of Maypu, determined, if neces- 
saiy, to risk a general battle, rather than permit such consum- 
mation. On the oth of April, the Royalists made their 
appearance, and at mid-day the two armies joined in a general 
battle — that of Maypu — one of the most famous which has been 
fought in South America. The royalists were defeated and 
driven from the field, but again presented a front with their 
infantry and artillery, in the Hacienda of Espejo, where they 
placed their batteries in position to defend the approaches, and 
fortified themselves within the houses. But all efforts to retrieve 
the day were fruitless, as the patriots, flushed with victory, 
fighting for home and their country, and anxious to wipe off the 
stain of the surprise at Cancha Rayada, were invincible ; and 
from this, their last hold, the Spaniards were marched as prisoners 
of war. General Osorio had the good fortune to escape in disguise. 

Thus terminated the battle of Alaypu — the Yorktown of 
Chilian independence — as the dominion of the Spaniard wa3 
destroyed, not to be again restored. Osorio, upon reaching 
Conception, appointed Sanchez governor of the Province, after 
which he dismantled and deserted Talcahuano, and embarked for 
Peru. 

The patriots, however, did not attempt at this time to follow 
up their successes, but turned their attention to the re-organization 
of their troops, and the establishment of a national marine, so ne- 
cessary for the defence of their own coast, or should an oppor- 
tunity offer, for operations against the Spanish forces in Peru, 
which yet remained the central point from whence emanated all 
offensive operations on the part of the Royalists. The first 
exploit of the infant marine — which was placed under the com- 
mand of Vice-Admiral Blanco Encalada, a distinguished artillery 
officer, who had served with credit in the battle of Maypu — was 
the surprise and capture of the Spanish frigate Isabel, which had 
convoyed 2,000 troops from Cadiz. Blanco captured also nearly 
the whole of this expedition, and most of the transports. In 
November of the same year, the famous Lord Cochrane — whose 



94 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



efforts in bebalf of liberty would entitle him to a high stand in 
public opinion, had not his avarice and selfishness invariably 
destroyed his claims — arrived in Chili, and being employed by 
the Government, hoisted his flag as a Chilian Vice-Admiral, on 
board the " O'Higgins," the late Spanish frigate Isabel. From 
that time until 1822, this enterprising and skilful seaman gave 
the Spaniards no rest at sea — their only shelter, and that not 
always effective, being under the guns of the Castle of Callao. 
In 1820, Cochrane's squadron, with land troops on board, attacked 
and completely defeated the Spaniards in Valdivia, which left 
the Chilians masters of all the territory pertaining to the former 
colony, with the exception of the Archipelago of Chiloe. From 
1820 to 1822, the assaults of the Chilian squadron, under 
Cochrane, continued against the Spanish cruisers and commerce, 
until the Spanish flag was nearly banished from the Pacific. So 
daring was this adventurer, that he even cut out the Spanish 
frigate '' Esmeralda," while lying under the guns of the formidable 
Castles of Callao. In 1820, General San Martin, in his turn, 
aided by the Chilians, weighed anchor from the port of Valparaiso 
with an army of 4,000 men, and soon after landed in the north 
of Peru, where he kept up a series of successful operations in the 
heart of the Spanish influence, until the independence of that 
country was finally consummated by Bolivar and Sucre, in the 
battles of Junin and Ayacucho, fought in 1824. Active hostili- 
ties in Chili having concluded in 1823, the Directoral Govern- 
ment, to which the people had submitted during the war, became 
obnoxious, as it was, in reality, nothing more nor less than a 
military despotism, with no constitutional legislative bodies to 
temper its absolutism. The Chilians began to consider that they 
bad fought for a free representative government, and not a change 
of rulers ; and the dissatisfaction with the Directoral Government, 
and the disposition to depose O'Higgins, became very general 
throughout the Provinces. The dissatisfaction which caused the 
Chilians so soon to forget the signal services of their most distin- 
guished revolutionary hero, may be measurably explained bj the 



CHAPTER VIII. 



HISTORY SINCE REVOLUTION. 



After a popular administration of three years, General Freire 
resigned the Directorship, in 1826. No less than six Presidents 
succeeded between 1826 and 1830, under the new constitution, 
each one serving but a short time, and resigning with disgust, 
when he was, in conformity with the provisions of that instrument, 
succeeded by the Yice-Presidcnt, and he, in turn, by the President 
of the Senate. During this short period, dissatisfaction was 
general, and some revolts occurred among the military, which 
was the real power by which the country was governed. In 1830, 
Congress was declared an unconstitutional and body ; the President 
Vicunia, who had succeeded to that office from the Presidency of 
the Senate, was at issue with the Junta Governativa. General 
Prieto, who was in command of the Southern army, declared in 
favour of the Junt^, and commenced marching upon Santiago, 
but was met at Ochagavia by General Lastra, who adhered to the 
President, when a battle ensued, in which the success was so 
eqtially balanced, that both parties claimed a victory. Freire, 
who attempted an unsuccessful mediation, afterwards joined the 
President with all the forces who would acknowledge his claim 
to their obedience as Captain General, but was defeated by the 
Southern army under Prieto, and banished in 1830. Tayle was 
now elected President, but resigned, and was succeeded by the 



98 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



Fice-President, who also dying, was succeeded by the President 
of the Senate, who acted until Prieto was elected in 1830."^ 

With the election of Prieto, who was assisted by Diejo Portales, 
Minister of War and the Interior, commenced a better order of 
things, when reformation and unflinching improvement became 
the order of the day. The constitution having been considered 
faulty, another was proposed by Prieto, which, having been ap- 
proved, was promulgated in 1833, and being that actually in 
force, will be discussed under the head of " Government," in the 
next chapter. Portales, perfectly aware that no government 
could be stable, so long as liable to a complete revolution by 
means of the military force of the country, which was at the dis- 
posal of many and rival chieftains, determined, as a first step, to 
limit their influence, by establishing a counterpoise in the organ- 
ization of the militia, whose efficiency soon destroyed the over- 
weening power of the regular establishment. Not satisfied with 
this radical change, and with a view also to economy in the 
administration, the army was reduced, and many useless officers, 
civil and military, struck from the list. 

Portales, who was perfectly acquainted with the character of 
all the politicians of his own country, was one of those men who, 
like Tacon, in Cuba, was by nature eminently calculated to master 
the inferior but turbulent people around him ; and perhaps there 
were few of the leading men of that day who were not more or 
less in his power, and whom he could not, and would not have 
crushed, had they attempted opposition to his measures, which 
were imdoubtedly intended, as they were adapted, for the benefit 
of his country and the masses, as well as the respectability of the 
government abroad. To him Chili owed its public credit, which 
had been low — the development of many of its resources — and 
the establishment of a police unecpalled in America, the benefit 

^ There appears to have been a singular mortality among the Chilian 
Presidents during this stormy period of her history, which is not clearly 
accounted for. 



HISTORY SINCE REVOLUTION. 99 



of which lie himself enjoyed ia watching and checking the tur- 
bulent. It is true that his attempts at foreign negotiation, and 
interference with other powers, led his country into a war ; but 
owing to his combinations, which were acted upon even after his 
death, it was a glorious and beneficial contest for Chili. The 
practical advantages derived from it have already been alluded 
to in discussing the commerce of Valparaiso, in the first chapter. 
The policy of the Chilian Administration, which brought about 
the rupture with Peru, was more than questionable. A treaty 
had been negotiated, highly advantageous to the former country ; 
but before it was fully sanctioned, the Peruvian President, Obe- 
joso, was driven from the executive chair, by a rebel chieftain 
named Salivera, with whom, at the head of the government de 
facto^ ratifications were exchanged, even while Obejoso's agent 
continued to reside near the Chilian government, and while the 
legitimate President was still in arms against the usurper. It is 
at all times difficult, particularly for a stranger, to obtain the 
true sentiments of a subordinate in an administration upon a 
delicate subject ; but I have every reason to believe, from infor- 
mation received from his contemporaries and personal friends, 
that this step never met the approbation of the enlightened Por- 
tales. Soon after this exchange of ratifications, Obejoso, aided 
by Santa Cruz, President of Bolivia, defeated the rebels, Salivera 
and Gamarra, at the battle of Socabaya, after which the latter 
escaped to Chili, and the former, with his principal officers, was 
shot. Obejoso was now re-established in his government, and feeling 
the slight which he had enduredat the hands of the Chilians, 
annulled the treaty by a decree, conceding four months for its 
renewal, which time having been allowed to pass by the latter 
without taking any action in the premises, discriminating duties 
were placed on their products and merchandise transhipped from 
any of their ports. The Peru Bolivian Confederation placed 
Santa Cruz, amid expressions of fervent gratitude on the 
part of Peru, at the head of the two governments as supreme 
Protector- — Obejoso being, in reality, little more than his titled 



100 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



ao-ent. To his influence was attributable a commercial refrula- 

O CD 

tion unquestionably beneficial to Peru, by which double duties 
were charged upon importations from any vessel which had 
touched at Valparaiso ; a measure by which Chili could not but 
suffer, as she had been hitherto a deposit whence Peru had re- 
ceived her merchandize in proportion to demand, after first pay- 
ing transit duties in the former country. Chili now saw that she 
had much to fear from the Peru Bolivian Confederation and its 
clear-headed supreme chief; and* hostilities, which were doubtless 
intended, were hastened by an invasion attempted by General 
Freire, from the Port of Callao, at the head of the Chilian emi- 
grants who had been banished after the defeat by Prieto in 
1830. That this expedition, which, owing to the energy and 
talent of Portales terminated without bloodshed, was connived at 
by Obejoso, there can be no reasonable question ; but that Santa 
Cruz neither advised nor was cognizant of it I think no less cer- 
tain. Freire was again banished, but no one was capitally exe- 
cuted, as the tenders of assistance from all quarters to the gov- 
vernment during the attempt, convinced the President and his 
sagacious minister that they could afford to show their contempt 
of such ill-concerted and ill-advised enterprises by leniency toward 
the perpetrators. The Chilian government, conscious of the advan- 
tages they must lose owing to the new state of things brought about 
by the influence of Santa Cruz, and jealous of the power of the 
Peru-Bolivian Confederation, which it was deemed their interest 
to dissolve at all hazards, availed themselves of the excuse 
afforded by Freire's expedition to make a demonstration upon 
Peru. A minister, accompanied by a squadron, was accordingly 
dispatched in 1836^ to make reclamations on the Peruvian gov- 
ernment for injuries attributable to that expedition, as well as the 
discriminating duties upon transhipped merchandize. 

That the original intention of this mission was hostile there can be 
no reasonable doubt, as the first act of the squadron was to surprise 
and capture all the Peruvian vessels of war which were lying in 
Callao roads, and place them under the guns of their own ships, 



HISTORY SINCE REVOLUTION, 101 



wliich were anchored near San Lorenzo and out of reach of the 
guns of the castles. This act of aggression was ostensibly in- 
tended to prevent a repetition of an attempt to invade their 
territories, and was measurably justified by the fact that Obejoso 
previously had chartered the Peruvian vessels of war for com- 
mercial purposes, and that two of them had been obtained on 
false pretenses by Freire for his expedition against Chili. Soon 
after this act of hostility a conference was agreed to, the result of 
which was, that the Peruvian .vessels should remain in the hands 
of the Chilians — that hostilities should be suspended on both 
sides, each party being also precluded from making any warlike 
preparation. Santa Cruz, upon this occasion, most solemnly, and 
as I believe, most truthfully disavowed all participation in 
Freire's attempt to revolutionize Chili; and expressed his willing- 
ness to refund to that government all the expenses which it had 
incurred in suppressing it — an offer which he could make without 
compromising his dignity, as the expedition had sailed from 
Callao, a city pertaining to the Confederation, where the local 
authorities ought to have been assured of its innocence before 
permitting it to leave the port. Although the minister could not 
sign a definitive convention, Santa Cruz bound himself to fulfil the 
conditions which it imposed upon him ; and at the same time 
took every measure in his power to convince the agent and his 
government of his desire to cultivate amicable relations with 
Chili. That he acted in perfectly good faith no one can doubt, 
as his protestations upon this occasion were corroborated by his 
conduct subsequently, when the advantage was clearly on his 
side. Upon the return of the Chilian agent, the government, 
which had now determined to regain their commercial supremacy, 
and destroy the influence of Santa Cruz, commenced warlike 
preparations ; and fitting out all their vessels, among which were 
the prizes taken from the expedition of Freire, and those some- 
what treacherously captured at Callao, the fleet was sent to Peru 
with their '' ultimatum" — the dissolution of the Confederation and 
restoration of sovereignty to Peru and Bolivia. To this, Santa 



l'02 CHILI AND THE AKGENTINE PROVLNCES. 



Cruz positively, and with much propriety, refused to accede^ 
more especially as it was accompanied by a threatening display 
of force. In December, 1836, Chili declared war against the 
Confederation, and commenced, under supervision of the inde- 
fatigable Portales, to prepare for hostilities. The President as- 
sumed extraordinary powers, provided for in the constitution, and 
troops were concentrated at Valparaiso, the whole expedition 
being placed under the commarid of Admiral Blanco Encalada, 
while that of the land forces was encharged to Colonel Vidame, 
an officer who had a high reputation for gallantry and talents. 
In addition to the Chilian army, a division of banished Peruvi- 
ans, under command of General La Fuente, an exile from that 
country, who it was intended should play the same part, to a 
certain extent, in dissolving the Peru-Bolivian Confederation, 
that our worthy and philanthropic ancestors, the English, have 
assigned to a certain black boy, whom it suits their purposes to 
style King of the Mosquitos^ in these attempts to obtain territory 
in Central America. Before the sailing of this expedition Chili 
met with a loss which was irreparable, and for which the ulti- 
mate success of the war did not compensate. This misfortune 
was attributable to the treachery of the commandant of the 
troops, Vidame, who, after the forces were concentrated at 
Valparaiso, ungratefully made Portales prisoner, and attacked 
Valparaiso, when he was beaten off by Admiral Blanco and his 
cousin Vidame, who was governor of the city. When the result 
of the attack became known, Portales and his secretary were 
shot by the step-son of the mutineer. Vidame and his accom- 
plices fled after the battle was lost, but were afterwards cap- 
tured, when he and eleven of his officers were shot, an act of retri- 
butive justice, however, which was a poor compensation to the 
country for the loss of the most unflinching patriot which Chili 
has produced, and to whose foresight and uncompromising ex- 
ertions she owes, in a high degree, her present prosperity. The 
land forces, to tlie number of three thousand men, which were 
now placed under the command of General Aldunate, sailed for 



HISTORY SINCE REVOLUTION. 103 



Islay, and took possession of the important interior city of Are- 
quipa, the second in Peru, where La Puente was declared Su- 
preme Chief by the Chilians, and commenced organizing his 
government. The forces of the Confederation retired before the 
invading army ; but, contrary to their anticipations, no discon- 
tented Peruvians joined their ranks. The success of the cam- 
paign depending essentially upon such aid, the position of the 
Chilians soon became extremely critical, and Santa Cruz was 
concentrating his forces, and threatened to cut off their com- 
munications with the sea coast. The Protector of Peru soon 
consummated his plans, enclosing the Chilians with double their 
force, leaving no alternative but the desperate chances of a 
battle, or submission, when their enemy, with a clemency which 
displayed the truth of his previous assertions to their Plenipo- 
tentiary at Callao, offered to treat for the evacuation of the 
Peruvian territory on terms the most liberal and honourable to 
them. As the Chilian forces were accompanied by a Plenipo- 
tentiary, a treaty was effected, which is known in the history of 
South American diplomacy as that of Paucarpata, after which 
the kindest hospitalities were extended to the invaders until they 
had embarked for home. Upon the return of the expedition, 
general dissatisfaction was expressed by the government and 
the people, who considered the convention as disgraceful. Blanco 
was deprived of his command, and a court-martial ordered ; the 
treaty disavowed ; and another army of six thousand men pre- 
pared to embark, and placed under the command of General 
Bulnes, a young and dashing officer, a nephew of the President, 
who had acquired a reputation by a successful campaign against 
the Araucanians. This expedition was accompanied not only by 
La Puente but by Gamarra, an ex-president, who had attempted 
an unsuccessful revolution against Obejoso, and who it was believed 
would be better received by the Peruvians than was La Puente 
upon the former occasion. The policy of Chili in thus forcing 
a neighbouring state into a war, and then attempting to intro- 
duce dissensions among them by aiding with their troops these 



104 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES, 



revolutionary chiefs, is inexcusable ; and the morbid sympathy 
lately expressed, covertly by the government and openly by the 
people, for their Mexican brethren during their contest with the 
United States, and their dissatisfaction expressed towards the latter 
country, comes with a very bad grace from a people whose his- 
tory contains such episodes as that which I have just sketched. 
The explanation, however, may be found in the fact that the war 
between the United States and Mexico was a war of races, and 
that the Spanish Americans, whose quarrels resemble those of a 
man and wife, fight among themselves like the famous " Kilkenny 
Cats," but are immediately roused in a general crusade should 
a nation not boasting peninsular origin find it necessary to casti- 
gate any one of them. This feeling has upon more occasions 
than one developed itself, and quite recently it produced much 
commotion in the Spanish American states, when it was 
rumoured that French and Irish emigrants would assist Flores 
in making himself President of Equador ; while none of these 
governments find cause for reclamation in the fact that the most 
excellent government of Buenos Ayres, with which they have the 
most friendly relations, has been since 1841 attempting by force 
of arms and diplomacy to foist upon the Montevideans a Presi- 
dent whom they expelled in 1837, and whose legal term of elec- 
tion has long since expired. Before the arrival of the Chilian 
Expedition at Lima, where they intended to disembark upon the 
occasion, Obejoso, with a want of faith which so frequently char- 
acterizes the prominent men in this hero-ridden continent, de- 
clared against his friend and ally, Santa Cruz, ^nd pronounced 
the Confederation dissolved, in which movement he was assisted 
by General Nieto. He, however, refused to act in conjunction 
with the Chilians, whom he informed they must seek elsewhere 
for Santa Cruz, and organized his forces to observe their move- 
ments. Bulnes disembarked his troops beyond the reach of the 
famous Callao castles and encamped on the plain near Lima. 
The next morning Obejoso, observing a movement among the 
C'hilians which he supposed to be the prelude to an attack upon 



HISTORY SINCE REVOLUTION. 105 



the capita], determined to take the initiative, marching out to 
give battle, and ordering Nieto to follow. This General imita- 
ting the recent treachery of his chief, held back with the troops 
under his command, which defection led to the total defeat of the 
President, and the capture of Lima. Obejoso secreted himself 
in the city, and afterwards escaped to the castles of Callao ; but 
finding that he would, by remaining, fall into the hands of Santa 
Cruz, embarked for Guayaquil, thus terminating, at least for the 
time, his political career. Nieto, as is usually the case with de- 
feated rebels in South America, obtained protection on board a 
foreign man-of-war. 

The day after the entrance of the successful Chilians, Ga- 
marra, their ready-made President, was put at the head of the 
Government, where he remained, however, but a short time, as 
Santa Cruz, then in Bolivia, hearing of the state of affairs in 
Lima, collected Lis forces, and after effecting a junction with 
three thousand troops, under command of General Moran, the 
Murat of Peru, entered Lima on the day after it had been 
evticuated by the Chilians. Bulnes, upon the approach of Santa 
Cruz, embarked his troops, and landed again in the department 
of Truxillo, where they were pursued by the enemy, and over- 
taken near Huara. 

Santa Cruz, having encamped in a strong position, intended to 
give battle as soon as his troops had rested after their unwonted 
exertion ; and aware that the enemy were in much distress, he 
had no doubt of defeating them with ease, although the numerical 
difference in force was very small, each army numbering some- 
thing more than four thousand men. He did not, however, count 
upon the desperation of the Chilians, nor treachery which was 
busy in his ranks ; and before he had made his dispositions for 
battle, he was himself attacked in his trenches. The battle of 
Yungai, which ensued on March 20th, 1839, was one of the 
most desperate ever fought in South America, lasting six and 
a half hours, terminating in the utter defeat of Santa Cruz, and 
dissolution of the Confederation. It was, however, by no means 



106 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



a bloodless victory for the Chilians, as they lost fifteen hundred 
killed^ while the loss of the Pera-Bolivians amounted to two 
thousand men. The army of Santa Cruz was completely anni- 
hilated ; two generals were killed, and three made prisoners, 
while he barely escaped with his life, accompanied by some 
twenty soldiers. At Lima he was joined by Moran, whom he 
placed in command of the castles of Callao, with orders to hold 
them four months, when he would bring relief, and reinstate 
himself in authority. He directed his course to Arequipa, where 
he was most popular ; but while on his way, news was first 
received of a revolution and his own deposition in Bolivia ; and 
next, that Arequipa had also deserted him. His life he saved 
with difficulty, as all men turned against the unfortunate chief- 
tain, who, accompanied only by three or four faithful followers, 
among whom was Gen. Miller, at this time H. B. M. Consul- 
general in the Sandwich Islands, he escaped to Islay, where he 
had just time, by embarking in an English vessel of war, to save 
himself from capture by a body of cavalry which had pursued 
him. Thus for the time terminated the political career of Gen. 
Santa Cruz, one of the most liberal-minded and honourable of 
the chiefs who have figured in South America, and a man more 
calculated than any other to elevate his country to the exalted 
position which it might hold among nations. In his whole career, 
political and military, I can find no stigma attached to his name — 
no treacherous desertion of a leader or a faction for his own 
elevation — no cruelty- to his enemies — no faithlessness to his 
friends, nor bad conduct as a military leader. His misfortunes 
were due to his trust in the good faith of others ; for had he 
crushed the Chilian army under Aldunate, it would not have 
returned augmented in numbers to attack him when unprepared ; 
and had he retained the Bolivian army in Peru, neither the de- 
fection of Obejoso, nor the revolt of Baldivian (the general who 
pronounced against him in Bolivia during his absence), would 
have occurred. The small remnant of officers who remained 
.,aithful to him, including Miller, Moran, Garcia del Rio, and 



HISTORY SINCE REVOLUTION. 107 



Cardeiio, is a striking commentary upon the dependence to be 
placed upon South American faith and gratitude. 

In 1836, the Peruvian Assembly had declared him Supreme 
Protector for life ; the invincible pacificator of Peru decreed an 
equestrian statue on the field of Socabaya, ^30,000 per annum 
as a salary, and that his portrait should be suspended in all 
public offices, including the halls of Congress. In 1839, he, with 
three faithful friends, was fleeing from his enemies, and every 
man was his enemy ; and life was only assured when he was no 
longer within the limits of his Supreme Protectorate, and when 
he sought the asylum afforded by a foreign man-of-war. These 
are the people whose glorious efforts for liberty we are expected 
to admire. I am a republican by birth and from conviction, but 
rather than see my own country resemble these vacillating, cruel, 
and ungrateful communities, which we are expected to recognize 
as our sister institutions, I would a thousand times welcome a 
despotism. Despots persecute the few, democracies the many. 
Despotisms may corrupt the morals of a few, but when demo- 
cracy runs riot, as it has done in many South American States, 
it spreads its blighting influence over all classes. It is always 
said, speaking of the disturbed state of those countries, that they 
are not true republics, but military despotisms, and that armies 
have no right to deliberate. Of what do the armies consist but 
of the wavering, changeable people, with arms and uniforms, 
and influenced by the specious arguments of every demagogue, 
civil or military ! An army ceases to be such when it assumes 
a right to deliberate. It is then, in different degrees, according 
to the extent to which its pretensions are carried, either the peo- 
ple or the mob in uniform. While touching, however, upon the 
destiny of Santa Cruz, I may allude to the fate of his rivals, 
and the traitors who betrayed him. Valasco was declared presi- 
dent at his deposition, by the military pronunciamento of Baldi- 
vian during his absence from Boliva. Afterwards another revo- 
lution placed Baldivian in the presidential chair ; and in 1847, 
just before my own arrival in Valparaiso, he arrived in Chili a 



108 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



fudtive, havino: been driven out to make room for the same 
Valasco whom he had deposed. Thus it is with South American 
revolutions ; and thus it is that the natural mode of government 
is brought into contempt among nations. Santa Cruz was a far- 
sighted man ; he wished to establish a government so strong that 
the pronunciamento of the colonel of a regiment in some remote 
point in the republic might not affect its stability, as had been 
hitherto the case ; and his commercial views were so extended, 
that he saw no necessity for the citizens of Peru first paying a 
transit duty on merchandize in Valparaiso before it reached their 
ports. He wished, also, to open a free commerce with foreign- 
ers, as an important element of prosperity to the nation over 
which circumstances called him to preside. This was the true 
cause of the hostility of Chili. For the time they were success- 
ful, and by destroying the Confederation they retained much of 
the commerce of Peru and Bolivia in their own hands ; but 
circumstances which their limited though well-organized forces 
could not control, gave to the United States a good port in Cali- 
fornia ; and almost at the same time, by the discovery of a gold 
region in their territory, gave a powerful incentive to emigration, 
by which the time has been much hastened when Chili will be no 
longer an " entrepot" for the commerce of the Pacific. Such 
were the objects of Chili in their successful war, and such the 
fate of the Supreme Protector, who was thus forced to abandon 
South America. His more recent history has been recorded, 
whether truly or falsely 1 cannot say, in the journals of the day, 
in connection with the projected expedition of Flores ; but of 
one thing I am well assured, that no chief who has hitherto 
figured in Peru or Bolivia, is so well calculated to ensure their 
prosperity as Gen. Santa Cruz. After the battle of Yungai, 
where the Chilians are accused of having shown great cruelty to 
the wounded, whom they slaughtered indiscriminately during the 
rout, Bulnes returned by sea to Callao where, before re- 
cmbarking for Chili, he not only imposed upon the Peruvians the 
President Gamarra, but a Constitution, after which he retired, 



•HISTORV SINCE REVOLUTION. 109 



^nd was soon after elected President of Chili — an office which 
he still holds. As Gamarra has figured as a Chilian or their coad- 
jutor in the preceding sketch, it may not be considered inappro- 
priate to follow his history to its speedy termination. In 1840, 
Bolivia, now having lost her master-spirit in Santa Cruz, became 
the prey of rival factions contending for the presidency, when 
Gamarra was requested to settle the dispute with an armed force. 
Arriving in Bolivia the two parties united, and attacking him at 
a disadvantage, he was completely defeated. In his flight from 
the field he was killed, and had not Chili mediated, Bolivia in 
turn would have invaded Peru. Thus terminates the wars of 
Chili with the Peru-Bolivian Confederation, and with it termi- 
nates Chilian history, as since this period she may be said to 
have been progressing rapidly in prosperity. '' Happy is the 
country which has no history." He who destroyed the spirit of 
military insurrection in Chili, Diego Portales, the statesman and 
patriot, is dead, but his work lives after him, and to his combi- 
nations is due the prosperity which Chili has enjoyed since his 
first appearance in her administration. Bulnes, the successful 
general, is now serving his second term as President of the Re- 
public. O'Higgins died in voluntary exile. Santa Cruz is an 
exile, and the General Freire, who succeeded O'Higgins, and 
attempted from Peru a revolution in Chili against the authority 
of the constitutional President, is now living quietly in Santiago, 
although it is supposed by some persons that he would be willing 
to relieve the monotony of his life by another attempt to place 
himself at the head of the government, were its strength not too 
great, and the chance of Executive clemency which he experi- 
enced during the presidency of Prieto, too small in that of his 
prompt and decisive nephew. 

Whether or not so long an episode in a work which professes 
to be a narrative of a journey, may not be justly considered ill- 
placed, is a question which I leave the reader to decide for him- 
self. It has been, and is my own opinion, that a sketch of the 
6 



no CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROTINCE'S:. 



iistory of tlie most prosperous of Spamsh Americaii Republics^ 
cannot Bnt possess some interest to Americans, especially wherp 
bronglit into a condensed ferm fr^m tie epoefe of tbe @onapeii 
to the pretests timo.^ 



CHAPTER IX. 

GEOGRAPHY GOVERNMENT DEPARTMENTS OF FOREIGN AFFAIRS, 

FINANCE, AND INTERIOR. 

The geographical position of Chili is easily appreciated by a 
single glance at the map of South America. It is a long and 
narrow strip of land, bounded on the west by the Pacific, which 
bathes its shores during its whole estent ; on the north, by the 
impassible desert of Atacama ; on the east, by difficult, at some 
seasons, impassable Cordillera ; and on the south, by the territory 
of the unconquered Araucanians. To these natural boundaries, 
which have prevented the Chilian population from disseminating 
itself over too wide a field, the country owes its high state 
of cultivation and much of its prosperity. The whole length 
of Chili is about eighteen hundred miles ; and its breadth, which, 
however, varies greatly as the Cordillera advances to, or recedes 
from the coast, is about two hundred miles. Independent of| 
their continental territory, the Chilians also possess the far-famed 
island of Juan Fernandez and the Archipelago of Chiloe^ con- 
taining sixty-four islands ; all, howeVer, except Chiloe proper, 
insignificant in extent and sparsely populated. Eecently the 
government has attempted to extend its possessions, by establish- 
ing a colony on the north side of the Straits of Magellan ; but as 
yet it has proved only a source of expense, and has led morever 
to a reclamation from the Argentine government, which also 
claims that territory. The continent proper is divided into ten 
provinces, which are each governed by an Intendant, who is 



Il2 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



appointed by the supreme government. The provinces them- 
selves are, for greater convenience, divided into departments, the 
administration of which is encharged to an inferior authority, 
who is styled governor. The most northern of these provinces is 
Atacama, the capital of which is Copiapo^ one of the most impor- 
tant seaports. The great wealth of this province consists in its 
minerals, of which copper is the most important. The next pro- 
vince in order is Coquimbo^ of which Serena is the capital, which, 
independent of mineral wealth, produces grain, fruits, and liquors. 
The port of this province is Coquimho^ one of the most secure in 
Chili. The next province is Aconcagua^ extending from 
Coquimho to the hills of Ckacahuco^ which separate it from San- 
tiago. On the east it is bounded by the Cordillera^ whence 
issue numerous streams, which make this one of the most fertile 
and productive of the provinces. Its resources are principally 
agricultural ; although it possesses considerable mineral wealth. 
Its capital is the city of San Felipe. The province of Valpa- 
raiso is less fertile than most other regions in Chili, and derives 
its principal importance from its port, which, though not so good 
as either Coquimho or Talcahuano^ has become the commercial 
emporium of the country. It must not be understood, however, 
that this province is sterile, as it produces grains and fruits in 
considerable quantities, and supplies most abundantly the mar- 
kets of its capital. Santiago is extremely fertile and well 
watered, the beautiful valley already mentioned in the descrip- 
tion of the Chilian capital, extending nearly through its whole 
extent. Its principal wealth consists in grains, cattle, and fruits, 
although metals are found' in various localities. The capital of 
the province of Colchaqua is San Fernando^ and its wealth 
principally mineral and agricultural. Marble is found in this 
province. 

Talca^ with a capital of the same name, is comparatively a 
new district, but is rapidly progressing in prosperity. 

Maukj whose capital is CauqueneSj is fertile, producing grains, 
fruits and minerals. At the capital there are warm springs, 



GEOGRAPHY, GOVERNMENT, &c. 113 



which are much resorted to by invalids. Temperature, accord- 
ing to Dau vm^ varies in the different springs at different seasons, 
In 1835, during the great earthquake, it suddenly fell from 118^ 
to 92^ Fahr. 

Conception^ with a capital of the same name, the port of which 
is TalcaAuanOj is an extensive district, rich in timber, useful in 
the arts, grains, cattle and wines, which latter attain an excel- 
lence not found elsewhere in South America. There is also 
mineral wealth in this province of which a coal bank is probably 
the most important, 

Valdiviaj the most southern of Chilian provinces, is yet almost 
in a state of nature, and inhabited for most part by Indians. It 
possesses mineral wealth which is not yet developed. Its produc- 
tions are cereal grains and wood for construction, the latter 
having been thus far the most valuable export.^ 

While upon the subject of the political divisions of the coun- 
try, it may not be inappropriate to touch upon the division of 
land and the condition of the people residing in the country — the 
Guasos or peasantry. Owing to the large grants made to the 
followers of Valdivia and the earlier governors, and which for the 
most part remain in the families of the first donataries, the land in 
the cultivated districts is almost invariably held in fee simple by 
large landed proprietors. When received by the first settlers, 
the grant of land was almost invariably accompanied by an encom- 
mienda or grant of a certain number of Indians, who were, accord- 
ing to the Spanish system in those days, obliged to labour for 
their proprietors. As the Spanish population increased^ and the 
mingling of the people, and the natural effect of contact with a 
superior race had thinned the Indians, and soon after, when, 
owing to the exertions of certain philanthropists, which the in- 
terested proprietors could no longer oppose, the system of enco- 
mendas was abolished, it became necessary to supply labour from 
another source. A scanty supply of negroes measurably filled 
up this deficiency ; but as slavery was also abolished by Carrera, 

=^ D. F. Lopez, Historia de Chile. 



114 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



while at the head of the revolutionary government in 1811, this 
source of labour was also withdrawn from the proprietors.^ 

Meanwhile, even before the abolition of Indian servitude, a 
new class of men were rapidly increasing in Chili — the poor 
who had no landed possessions, and who became so numerous that 
employment could be no longer found in the cities as laborers, or 
in the few mechanic arts which were practised in Chili. These 
persons at present form the labouring class, under a system quite 
closely resembling the feudal, as the landed proprietors give to a 
peasant who applies to him for permission to reside on his estate, 
a small portion of land, upon which he erects a cottage, and by 
the careful cultivation of the limited field which has been given 
him, supports himself and family. For this right to reside on the 
estate, and for this assignment of land, he is obliged to render 
certain services to the proprietor, dijffering only from a feudal 
tenure in the fact that these services are not military, but agri- 
cultural and pastoral. The Inquilino^ or tenant, must assist his 
master's immediate servants in driving in and in marking cattle (the 
Rodesjj in getting in and threshing the harvest, and, in short, 
any of the more important services of an estate, which require 
greater force than that ordinarily employed. As the limited ex- 
tent of cultivable soil assigned by the land owner is seldom suffi- 
cient to support the tenant and his family, he is at liberty, when 
not required by the proprietor, to ask service elsewhere, which 
they invariably do, as the Chilian peasant is by no means idle, 
and in pursuit of employment, which density of population makes 
difficult in their own country, finds his way to the adjoining 
Argentine Provinces, where they are employed as labourers in 

"^ I often had occasion to remark upon the limited number of negroes in 
Chili, particularly in the interior, which in this respect contrasts not only 
with Brazil, but Buenos Ayres, Monte Video, and Peru. Upon inquiring of a 
very intelligent Chilian, whose exalted official position, thorough education 
and experience gave him a good opportunity of judging, I was informed 
that most of the Chilian negroes who had been freed by Carrera enlisted in 
the army of St. Martin, and were left by him in Peru and Buenos Ayres. 



'GEOGRAPHY, GOTERN^IEXT, &c. 115 



towns, or upon grazing and otber farms. So nnmerous are the 
Chilians at Mendoza and its vicinity, tb^t any labourer is called 
'Chilenoe whether he "be a native of that country er not. The 
peasant in Chili, of course, can possess but little education — the 
female portion (Ghiasitas) still less — yet they appear happy, 
industrious, and are very polite to strangers. As might be 
€:s:peeted, the e^ect of this feudal system is to make them subor- 
dinate and very respectful to all whom they consider their 
superiors in seciaj position or m wealth. All such they address 
as ^' pairon^''^ employer, or master, and while in their preseace, 
they generally sta?id ui>covered. Such state of politesse, among 
many will doubtless be considered as in a high degree derogatory 
to the dignity of human nature ; as the predisposition unfortu- 
nately among those who are influenced by tiie arguments of the 
<iemagogues, is to consider that in the intercourse between the 
poor and rich, the i^orant and educated, the former cannot 
uphold their dignity as free and enlightened citizens, save by a 
display of rudeness, intended for assertion ef equsMtj, Yet 
these same sticklers for the dignity of human nature, can, as we 
have often seen, assume the most abject humility when their 
interest dictates. The independence which they preach, there- 
fore, is (yaly applicable in. all those cases in which they require 
nothing of those who may have it in their power to oblige them, 
as no man can be more servile than the flatterer and servant of 
the mob."^ In my opinion, therefore, the respect shown by the 
Chilian peasant to those whom education, or wealth, or both, have 
placed above him, has in it more real dignity than the alternations 
of servility, as occasion offers or requires, and rudeness, mistaken 
for independence, which I have observed in some other countries. 
The dwellings of the peasantry are almost invariably to be found 
by the road sides, while the great house is situated in the centre 
of the estate, an arrangement not only useful to the peasant, who 

* "^ Wherever this word occurs in owr writings, it intends persons without 
virtue or sense, in all stations ; and naany of the highest rank are often meant 
by it."' — Fielding's History of a Foundling. Note to chap. IX. 



J 16 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



Las thus an opportunity to dispose- of superfluous fruits or vege- 
tables to passing travellers, but to tlie proprietor, who bas tbus 
a barrier against depredators, and gives many estates the appear- 
ance of a villao:e, owino; to the number of tenants who are located 
on its margin. In general terms, therefore, the rural population 
may be divided into land-owners and feudal tenants— the former 
giving the land, and the latter supplying labour required at cer- 
tain seasons, as a compensation for this favour. 

Government. — The general government of Chili consists of 
an Executive, elected for five years, eligible for a second, but not 
a third term unless an intermediate term has meanwhile transpired. 
His duties and prerogatives are similar to those of our own 
Executive, and to assist his deliberations, an Executive Council^ 
consisting of the Presidents of the Supreme Court of Justice and 
Court of Appeals, the Bishop of Santiago, Apostolic Vicar, a 
General of Division, Minister of Estanco,"^ two ex-Ministers, two 
Judges, and a Secretary of the Council. The Ministers of the 
government are four : /Foreign and Interio^ AfFairsyl[Justicey 
[Religion, and Public Instruction Jn'reasury)(jVar and jNIarineJ 
The existing President is P. Manuel Eulnis, General of Division^ 
who entered upon his second term on September ISth, 1S46. 

The Legislature consists of two houses — the Senate and House 
of Deputies. The former represent the provinces in the ratio of 
two to each Continental Province ; the whole number is conse- 
quently twenty. Their term of service is nine years, and the 
mode of election in triple lists, which are renewed every three 
years. During the first two terms, seven Senators are elected, 
and in the third term six, completing the number. Senators and 
Deputies may be elected indefinitely. 

The House of Deputies is composed of members elected by 
direct suffrage, one for every twenty thousand souls. In the 
event of a fraction remaining, not less than half or ten thousand, 

* The functionary here alluded to, presides over the administration of the 
monopolies which are reserved by the Governnaent, the amount of which 
will be discussed under the head of finance. 



GEOGRAPHY, GOVERNMENT, &c. 117 



it is also represented by a Deputy. The term of service is three 
years, and the last elections took place for this House, alike with 
the Senate, in 1846. 

Annual expenses for salaries and contingents for the two 
houses, $7,752. 

The Judicial power in Chili consists of two Superior Courts, 
the Supreme Court of Justice, and that of Appeals. They each 
consist of a President, five ?>Iinisters, a Fiscal, two Relatores^ 
and a Secretary. 

Foreign Affairs. — Chili is at present at peace, and is 
generally in amicable relations with all nations. The most im- 
portant negotiations on foot during 1848, were those tending to 
a long projected meeting of Plenipotentiaries of South American 
States, to determine upon a confederation between them, and 
establish a convention for purposes of commerce and navigation^ 
Many years had elapsed since the American Congress at which 
the United States were represented, had met at Panama^ and 
many of the causes which made it desirable at that time, had 
been removed or modified, and when, owing to the exertions of 
the States bordering on the Pacific, it was finally re-convened, 
only five Plenipotentiaries appeared in Lima, representing the 
Eepublics of Chili, Peru, Bolivia, Equador, and jNew-Grrenada. 

In 1848 the Representatives of these Ptepublics signed a treaty 
of Confederation, one of Navigation and Commerce, as well as 
two pacts termed Convention of JNlails and Consular Convention. 
The ratifications, which were subject to the decisions of the respec- 
tive Grovernments, were to have been exchano;ed in Lima in Auo^ust, 
1849. As might be anticipated, the Minister of Foreign Affairs, 
who appeared much in favour of such Congress, announced to the 
Chambers in his Report in 1848, that the Government intended 
recommending to the Congress certain modifications of impor- 
tance in the existing Conventions, and that certain others should 
be found, the attainment of which he did not consider difficult, 
but as each State will, in all human probability, recommend con- 
flicting modifications, it can scarce be anticipated that any stable 
6^ 



118 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



or useful arrangement can be effected. In truth, it strikes me 
very strongly as a diplomatic game, in which five governments 
are attempting to overreach each other ; and as of course they can- 
not all attain their ends, they will not ratify the convention, and 
the Conoress of Nations at Lima will terminate like the famous 
congress above alluded to at Panama. The objects to be attained 
by this Congress, as announced by the Chilian Government to the 
Houses in 1844, is the preservation of exterior and interior 
peace, the amicable solution of questions which might arise 
among the confederate states, the regulation of the right of re- 
fuge and asylum, the establishment of more benign principles of 
international jurisprudence, the better enjoyment of aquatic com- 
munications, the police of the frontiers, security and promptness 
in epistolary correspondence, and the reciprocal protection to be 
conceded to citizens of the respective states. The Chilian Secre- 
tary also recommended to the consideration of the congress of 
plenipotentiaries such mutual favour and protection of their rising 
commerce as might be compatible with existing treaties and con- 
ventions with other nations. It must be acknowledsied that such 
a pact among the South American States, if it could be agreed 
upon, might be advantageous to all not only in a commercial view, 
but on account of the mutual strength arising from such alliance, 
which could not but tend to liberate them from the insulting: and 
offensive encroachments upon their sovereignty which is not un- 
frequently practised by powerful maritime nations, and especially 
by the English. Yet notwithstanding these obvious advantages, 
I cannot but look upon the attempt as a pleasing chimera, whose 
realization is impossible, and am indeed surprised that the five 
plenipotentiaries should ever have come to a definite conclusion 
on any of the points which were discussed in the Congress. 
Neighboring states are almost invariably rivals, and contiguity is 
by no means equivalent to identity of interests, and the confede- 
ration will propabl}^ be shipwrecked even before it is well organ- 
ized ; and even admitting the possibility of the objects in view, the 
disturbed state of most of these Re2)ublics would effectually pre- 



GEOGARPHY, GOVERNMENT, &c. 119 

vent a continuance, as a change in administration due to revolu- 
tion in any one of them might be the means of breaking up their 
political and commercial relations, and would probably lead to 
hostilities. The unfortunate fate of the Peru Bolivian confede- 
ration ought to warn all these states of the great difficulty of re- 
concilino- conflictinor interests between nations. The Chilian 
government has also attempted unsuccessfully to establish similar 
relations with other South American states. A correspondence 
transpired between it and the Brazilian government during the 
year 1848, initiated by the former with the desire of entering into 
some definite arrangement by which the commercial relations 
might be placed on a footing more advantageous for both parties, 
and that for this purpose Brazil should accredit a diplomatio 
agent, who should be authorized by his government to treat with 
that of Santiago. The imperial government declined, but has 
since accredited a '' charge des affaires " to Chili, whose minister 
of foreiorn relations in his last messasre states that thouo-h the 
government is unwilling to introduce odious distinctions, it is not 
disposed to countenance inequality without compensation under 
the outward semblance of reciprocity between Chili and Brazil. 
In short, it threatens to establish upon Brazilian products differen- 
tial duties with a view to equalize the advantao-es of the commerce 
between the two countries. That such inequality exists is appa- 
rent from the report of the Minister of Finance, in which it ap- 
pears that the value of the produce of Brazil introduced into 
Chili during the years 1845, '46, and '47 was §1,179,505, while 
the exportations during the same years from Chili to Brazil 
amounted to no more than $371,990, The products of Brazil do 
not meet the rivalry in the Chilian markets that Chilian products 
do in their own ; in the article of flour, for example, the principal 
agricultural export, Chili has at the same time to compete with 
the flour from Europe and the United States, each of whom can 
afford to sell cheaply, as the cargo is little more than ballast, the 
profits of the voyage arising from the return cargo of coffee. Of 
the importations made from Chili into Brazil during the period 



120 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



above alluded to, ^59,000 were in ounces of gold, which is not to 
be considered as affectiDg the balance above mentioned, which is 
in favour of Brazil to the amount of $807,515. 

It could not be expected that Chili should not have had 
its troubles with its captious neighbor, the Argentine Confedera- 
tion. Such indeed is the case, as the latter has protested against 
the establishment of the Magellan colony, on the ground that 
the territory belongs to Buenos Ayres, and demanded satisfaction 
for an invasion of the province of Mendosa by an Argentine 
chief, named Rodrigues. This person, it appears, after an un- 
successful attempt against the existing authorities, escaped to 
Chili, where he was placed under surveillance at the request of 
the authorities of Mendosa, but having by some means escaped, 
returned to the Argentine territory, where he was defeated and 
executed. In a diplomatically insulting note the government of 
the Confederation accused that of Chili of bad faith and canni- 
vance. 

There still exists an open question between Chili and the 
United States relative to individual claims, but the Minister of 
Foreisn Affairs '' hopes that the Cabinet at Washington disem- 
barrassed from the urgent attention required by the war with the 
Mexican States (whose termination, so ardently desired, will be 
without doubt a motive of congratulation to the Chambers,) will 
turn its attention to the discussions pending with this Republic. 
From its justice and wisdom, we ought to promise ourselves a 
satisfactory result." Even the compliment to our justice and 
wisdom does not counterpoise the diplomatic expression of dis- 
satisfaction at our war with the Mexicans, with whom the Chilian 
people have sympathised during the contest, not only on account 
of the ties of common origin which bind them together, but from 
jealousy to the United States, whose commercial rivalry in the 
Pacific must inevitably decrease their importance. Touching 
upon this feeling I may also allude to the superior popularity of 
Emrland over our own country in Chili, as it presents an anomaly 
not easily reconciled at first sight, and of which I have assured 



GEOGRAPHY, GOVERNMENT, &c. 121 



myself in three visits to this country. In the course of a voyage 
round the world and visits paid to countries in Asia, Africa, and 
both Americas, not to mention divers islands situated in various 
parts of different oceans, I have found my country and country- 
men invariably respected and even loved, whereas the English, 
either through the aggressive policy of the government or the 
hauteur of individuals, have managed to make themselves su- 
premely disliked '' and immeasurably despised." To this general 
rule Chili is the only exception which has yet come under my 
notice. It is true England has never had occasion to commit 
acts of an arbitrary nature, in this Republic, as has been the case 
with almost every nation which was not in a situation to resist or 
resent, yet this alone cannot account for the anomaly to which I 
allude. The only explanation which I can make is, that the 
English mining companies with immense capitals and commercial 
houses, which are numerous in Valparaiso^ have for many years 
controlled the commerce and exchange of Chili, while the natives 
have generally been their debtors for merchandise imported from 
England and sold to them on credit. Favors rendered and credit 
given alike to the government, whose external debt is in England, 
may thus account for the popularity of a nation the forbearance 
or justice of whose government and social deportment of whose 
citizens certainly could never have secured it. To the naval ad- 
venturers, of whom Lord Cochrane stands first in rank and 
achievements, the Chilians have owed something, although not 
their independence, which was achieved before their arrival, but 
as they were called upon to pay so liberally, especially so to the 
distinguished personage already named, we can scarce imagine 
that English popularity should owe its origin to this source. If 
it does, we must confess that " like causes do not always produce 
similar effects," which we were formerly taught to believe as the 
acts of the Marquis of Mar an ham ^ (Lord Cochrane.) and his 
naval adventurers in Brazil, and the Lord High Admiral of 
Greece. (Lord Cochrane,) certainly did not elevate the character 
of his countrymen in either of these countries. Quite the con- 



12 2 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 

trarj, especially in tlie fonner, where some of his achievements 
are branded as piracies. The exterior relations of Chili with 
other nations do not possess sufficient interest to merit a detailed 
account. In every quarter they are amicable, and present ap- 
pearances promise alike peace abroad and freedom from revolution, 
which before the period of Portales prevented the development 
of its resources at home. The office of Foreign Relations, with a 
patriotism and sagacity which does it credit, has recently availed 
itself of the presence of their diplomatic and consular represen- 
tatives abroad to endeavor to introduce improvements into the 
country and to benefit and develop their commerce. In further- 
ance of the former object, a proposition was made to the Royal 
Gras Company in London, to illuminate the Chilian capital, which 
offer was declined on the ground that their continental operations 
had been unsatisfactory, and on account of the remoteness of 
Chili, but hopes were entertained that their propositions in the 
United States would be more successful. For the purpose of de- 
veloping their commercial, agricultural, and mining resources, the 
foreign office proposed to contribute to the support of a line of 
steamers to ply between Europe and Chili, by way of the Straits 
of Magellan, and touching at Brazil. Although the proposition 
was not accepted in Brazil, hopes are entertained that it has met 
a favorable reception in France and Spain, and that the project 
which would be doubtless advantageous to Chili, may be consum- 
mated when quiet is once more restored in Europe. In conclud- 
ing this brief sketch of Chilian foreign relations, we cannot for- 
bear expressing our favorable opinion of the sagacity, patriotism, 
and firmness by which the government and legislature seem alike 
actuated in their intercourse with foreign powers, and the econ- 
omy and strict accountability with which this, as well as the other 
Chilian departments of government are conducted. 

The diplomatic agents by which the Republic was represented 
in September 1848, were a plenipotentiary in Rome and one in 
the United States. A " Charge des Affaires," in Paris. A 
Consul General in Mexico and Rio de Janiero. Her commercial 



GEOGRAPHY, GOVERNMEXT, &c. 123 



interests are encharged to twenty-six consuls and three vice-con- 
suls, residing at the ports with which her vessels and citizens have 
most intercourse. 

Expense of this department during the year 1S45, amounted 
to $68,371. 

The diplomatic representatives of foreign nations residing near 
the government of Chili, consist of three " Charges des Affaires," 
representing Spain, United States, and Peru,"^ and four Consuls 
General, representing Sardinia, Equador, France, and England. 
In addition there resides in various ports of the Republic seven- 
teen consuls and six vice-consuls, representing the interests of the 
principal maritime powers. 

FIXANCE AND THE IXTERIOR. 

The sources of revenue in Chili are land tax, tithes, excise, 
articles monopolized by the government, stamps, licenses, duties 
of importation, of exportation, toll on roads, post-office, and auc- 
tion licences. The mint during some years is profitable, while in 
others it is an outlay, and cannot be calculated upon as a certain 
source of revenue. The sum total of the public revenue derived 
from these various sources during the three financial years pre- 
ceding my visit was as follows : 

1845, - - $3,223,039 

1846, - . . - 3,623,918 

1847, - - - - - - - - 3,714,078 

The amount produced by each source of revenue during the 
three years above specified will be seen by glancing the eye over 
the table subjoined, which displays the gradual but steady in- 
crease of revenue from almost all the sources specified : 

^ Since pubHcation of above list, a Brazilian Charge has been accredited 
to Chili, while the United States have raised their legation to a full mission. 



124 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



Custom Houses, 


INCLUDING- DUTIES ON 


Exports and 


Imports, 








1845. 


1846. 


1847. 








$1,763,739 


$2,099,608 


$2,103,076 


Monopolies, 






663,356 


699,352 


721,349 


Tithes, 






378,309 


407,868 


438,737 


Land Tax, 






75,078 


72,385 


71,542 


Excise, 






102,175 


115,744 


122,799 


Licences, 






38,594 


38,510 


40,865 


Stamps, 






54,725 


58,273 


58,171 


Mint, 




■ 


.23,959 






Post Office, 






46,256 


47,036 


48,971 


Tolls on Roads, 






39,509, 


41,048 


37,349 


Auctions, 






6,100 


6,025 


6,078 


Other sources not 


specified, 


31,225 


37,249 


50,101 



The system of tithes has been abolished by law, and the de- 
ficiency in the revenue supplied by an additional tax upon land, 
the whole impost being included in the latter tax. The government 
has also taken measures to estimate the value of the .Cajpellamas^ 
or rural chapels, which are numerous, with the intention of im- 
posing a tax upon the land pertaining to them in common with 
all others in the Republic, a plan in which the government an- 
nounces its intention of persisitng, notwithstanding the opposition 
which the measure has met. The stamp duties are upon legal 
papers, ships' manifests, passports, &c., and as may be seen by 
the preceding table, is quite productive as a source of revenue. 
The stamps are not sold directly by the government, but are pur- 
chased in the shops of the various towns and villages. There are 
seven classes of stamps, ranging in value from one real (12| cents,) 
to $16. The most productive are the stamps for two reals. I 
am not informed upon the subject of the monopolized articles ; 
tobacco, however, is one of the most important. As appropri- 
ations are made without reference to the income during the 
financial year for which they are intended, it sometimes occurs 
that it is insufficient to meet the annual expences. In this case, 
however, the deficiency is supplied by the savings from previous 
years, as the public expenditures are almost invariably less than 
the revenue. 



GEOGRAPHY, GOVERNMENT, &c. 125 



The foreign debt reinaiDing in 1848, which was for most part 
due in England, was one million five hundred and eighty-eight 
thousand pounds sterling. The interior debt at the same time, 
which paid three per cent, interest, was ^1,745,950. Both 
these debts are beinc: extino^uished, and should no foreio-n war in- 
crease the expenses of the government, Chili will in a few years 
be free from national debt. As the exchange in Europe owing to 
the state of the balance in trade is against Chili, the government 
has proposed through their ministers in France and England to 
encharge themselves with the payment of the expenses of their 
respective squadrons, receiving in return bills of exchange, by 
which the debt or its interest may be remitted. As this will pro- 
bably be advantageous only to Chili, it is not probable that the 
proposition will be accepted, but I mention it as an evidence of 
the principles of strict economy by which the administration is 
governed. 

The government is urgent in its recommendations for the es- 
tablishment of a bank which may " satisfy the want so generally 
felt for institutions of credit." Their diplomatic representatives 
in "Washington and Paris have been directed to enter into some 
arrangements with capitalists for the establishment of an institu- 
tion of this kind in Chili. The Minister of Finance in his annual 
report to the Chambers in 1848, states that considering credit as 
the most valuable of national properties, he would not have hesi- 
tated in founding a bank on account of the government but for 
the opposition which he was aware the proposition would meet 
from many distinguished citizens, and the danger which the insti- 
tution would encounter from the inexperience of those who alone 
could be appointed to manage it. The experience and practical 
knowledge to be acquired by a private bank would be desirable 
before attempting the establishment of a national one. The 
government, alive to the industrial and mining interests of the 
country, makes several recommendations for their respective de- 
velopment. " The industry of America," says the Minister of 
Finance, " cannot develop and thrive by itself alone, as a plant 



126 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES, 



does not prosper which rises at the foot of another which absorbs 
all the sustenance arising from the earth." On the principle 
above stated, protective duties are recommended for Chilian 
manufactures. To the judicious application of such protection, 
says the minister in continuation, the United States owes its in" 
dustrial prosperity. England, as well as Spain, prohibited her 
colonies from occupying themselves in manufactures, and thus it 
is that the starting point of fabric industry in the American 
Union coincides with the commercial restrictions of 1803, while 
it increased and took root with the protection afforded by the 
tariffs of 1816, 1824, and 1828. Acting upon these principles, 
the government recommend an exclusive privilege to be conceded 
to the manufacturers of certain important articles for the term of 
eight years. It is also recommended that certain important arti- 
cles of consumption in the manufactures above mentioned shall 
be admitted free of duty. 

For the development of the mining interests certain recom- 
mendations have been recently made, and in part executed by the 
government. Firstly. Tkat mines shall he secured from vexatious 
suits at law^ which it appears is not nnfrequtnt when the result of 
their lahours has become productive. Secondly. To improve the 
police of the mines^ ^c. Thirdly. To improve communicatiohs . 
Fourthly. Improve ports and construct moles. Fifthly. To faci- 
litate the acquisition of necessary articles for mining 'purposes^ an 
object measurably attained by permitting native and foreigu ves- 
sels to disembark bricks, coals, iron, &c., at the bye-ports most 
convenient to the scene of operations. Sixthly. To auginent the 
number of vessels for exportation of minerals. Seventhly. To 
perfect the instruments employed in working the mines. It is also 
recommended to bestow a premium for the introduction of Arte- 
sian wells, and the use of cotton gunpowder in the working of 
the mines. 

The agricultural industry, for reasons which I mentioned in the 
first chapter, is precariously and unfortunately situated, as each 
year the increase of the crops, and the want of markets, augment 



GEOGRAPHY, GOVERNMENT, &c. 127 



tlie excess and diminish the price, while the difficulty is increased 
by the high interest on money. No government has probably 
laboured more assiduously than the Chilian to open markets, both 
by fair and insidious means, as has been shown in the recent his- 
tory of the country, and in the sketch on Foreign Relations. In 
a comparison of the state of agricultural and mining interests, 
the advantage is much in favour of the latter, as the metals 
always meet a ready market, which is not the case with the 
former, and strange to say, the export duty is least on the most 
saleable article, which cannot well suffer from competition. Dur- 
ing the latter part of 1848, the agricultural products .become 
suddenly in demand, and much flour was exported to California 
to supply an immense emigration which the discovery of the gold 
washings brought to that hitherto unproductive and unconsuming 
territory. This demand, however, is purely ephemeral, as Cali- 
fornia and Oregon will soon supply that territory, and meanwhile 
Chili will have to compete with the flour from Guaymas in Mex- 
ico, and with that of the United States. The manufacture of 
oil and wine, as also that of the spirits made from the grape in 
the southern provinces, decays daily, says the minister, before 
foreign competition, and the productive duties can be raised no 
higher without affordino^ encouraofement to contraband, while 
hemp is only cultivated in small quantities in the Province of 
Qiiillota. All that is possible, it would appear, has been done by 
the government, (except in diminishiog, or entirely removing 
export duties. Roads have been constructed and repaired, bridges 
built, bye ports made eligible to enable the farmer to embark his 
products without the expense of a tedious land carriage, a treaty 
effected with Peru, and whalers encouraged to visit the ports, to 
consume the produce of the country. Amid all these efforts to en- 
courage agriculture, it appears somewhat surprising that the 
export duty should not be entirely remitted upon products of the 
soil, yet when the closeness of relation between demand and sup- 
ply in expences of the government and revenue, with which it is 
met, is considered, it is less astonishing that the government do 



l28 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



not dare to recommend it. When a revenue is small and nearly 
equalled by expences, sucli experiments are unsafe, and failing, 
mifrht ruin the standino^ of an administration. 

The attention paid by Chili to her internal communications, I 
cannot but consider the most creditable feature in her administra- 
tion, and highly beneficial for all classes in the country, especially 
agriculturists in the interior. In the Argentine provinces and 
the Banda Oriental, nature has supplied open commuuicatioDS in 
the plains, ^vhich comprise a greater portion of their territories ; 
but as far as regards regularly constructed roads, upon which 
wheeled vehicles can travel, Chili has a o^reater extent in her 
limited territory than there are in all the Spanish South American 
States. The great empire of Brazil might be also included, in 
this estimate, as like most of her neighbours of Spanish origin, she 
appears satisfied with the primeval bridle paths, there not being 
in the whole empire, excluding the cities and their immediate 
suburbs, three hundred miles of carriage road, except where it 
has been provided by nature in the form of plains similar to those 
of the Argentine Confederation already alluded to. The pre- 
sence of good roads is now considered as one of the salient evi- 
dences of civilization, and in this respect Chili ranks favourably. 
Yet unwillinoj as I am to detract from the credit criven to a nation 
almost by common consent, and seek abroad for the origin of im- 
provements, a course of reasoning so essentially English, I must 
acknowledge that carriage roads in this country owe their origin 
to Ambrose O'Higgins, (an Irishman) already favourably men- 
tioned in the colonial history as the governor who succeeded in 
17SS. Until the period of his administration, Chili, like other 
South American States, possessed only bridle paths, and the agri- 
cultural products were, like those of the interior of Brazil, nearly 
useless, on account of the difiiculty or impossibility of conveying 
them to market or to the sea coast for exportation. But 
although we cannot in view of historical facts and analogical 
reasoning, concede to Chilians the originality of their invaluable 
communications, yet we cannot .but give them much credit for 



GEOGRAPHY, GOVERNMENT, &c. 129 



the improvement upon the customs of their ancestors, and their 
perseverance in overcoming great natural obstacles. In fine, as 
may be inferred from the above sketch, the ministry of finance 
and the interior, perfectly alive to the interests of its country, 
has availed itself of every opportunity for the development of its 
resources and the economical administration of the affairs of the 
nation. 

The total expence of the department of finance for the year 
1845, which I suppose may be assumed as the average annual 
expenditure, was $734,923, while that of the interior, for the 
same period, was $347,710. 



CHAPTER X. 

DEPARTMENTS OF JUSTICE, RELIGION, WAR AND MARINE* 

The Ministry of Justice comprehends also that of Religion 
and Public Instruction, in neither of which branches of the ad- 
ministration are to be found information possessing more than 
^ provincial interest. The two most important points referred 
to by the minister in his annual report in 1846, was the con- 
tinuation of the labours of a commission employed in compiling 
a new criminal code ; and the non-conformance of the govern- 
ment to a decree of the Congress authorizing the establishment 
of two more courts of appeal. The objections which it urges for 
not having established these two tribunals, was the additional 
expense of some $40,000, which it would not be difficult to 
expend more advantageously, and the extreme probability that 
their establishment would aup^ment instead of diminishinor the 
evils they were proposed to correct. The arguments probably 
had their weight with the Chambers, as neither of these courts 
had been established at the period of my visit in 1849. The 
laws which restrict the liberty of the press, require, says the 
minister, urgent reform, as the publication of ideas through the 
medium of the press, while it is a powerful means of aggrandize- 
ment and enlightenment to which civilized nations owe many 
blessings, may be converted into instruments of disorder and evil, 
more especially in new countries just founding their institutions, 
and where backwardness in civilization makes it a matter of little 
difficulty to blind and lead men into error. That the limitations 



DEPARTMENTS OF JUSTICE. 13i 



sientioned would be beneficial, I cannot for a moment doubt^ 
although iaslined to believe that the central and nervous govern-- 
ment of Chili has never admitted such excesses of this privilege- 
as has been perpetrated with so much impunity in her sister, the 
model RepubliCy and in Great Britain. 

The prison system in Chili is imperfect, but improving, not- 
withstanding the difficulty of bringing ignorant subordinates inta 
the views of the enlightened government, for according to the 
report of the minister in 1846, '^ To canstriict prisons in that 
country is to construct large halls and dungeons where the great 
criminals are mingled with those who are incarcerated for the first 
time and for a slight cause, and in which the novices acquire 
knowledge in a school of evil, upon which to practice upon a; 
future occasion." To obviate the defects arising from this sys- 
tem, the government has announced that it will approve of na 
prison, still less assist in its construction, in which the system of 
isolating the prisoners is not provided for. One prison upon this 
system has been already built, while two others are in the process 
of construction. There exists a House of Correction at the 
capital, and a penitentiary recently established on the system of 
isolation, adopted from the United States, so immeasurably supe- 
rior to the former. A Spanish prison must be seen in order to 
appreciate its horrors and the truthfulness of the minister's state- 
ment relative to their demoralizing influence. It has, however, 
often occurred to me that imprisonment in either Chili or JPeri& 
must possess additional horrors to the prisoners under any practi- 
cable system which might be proposed. Doctor Johnson re- 
marked of a ship, that it was a prison without its security from 
danger. This remark, which is measurably true where it was 
made, as well as in our own country, is by no means the case in 
Chili, where the frequency of earthquakes, sometimes terrific io 
their eff'ects, destroys not only our confidence in the stability of 
all edifices, but in that of the earth's crust itself. It is a fact 
sufficiently notorious that residents of a country where earth- 
quakes are frequent become more timid and easily terrified than 



132 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



those who are witnessing the phenomena for the first or second 
time. Having in view this fact, and that upon the first rumbling 
which generally announces the approach of an earthquake, every 
inhabitant rushes frantically in a square, street, or some other 
open space to save himself from death beneath his walls, and 
ki that many fear to close their doors when asleep, lest they may not 

obtain speedy egress, it may easily be imagined the horror of a 
man at finding himself shut up for years between four ponderous 
walls, with no chance of escape in the event of a shock. As 
severe earthquakes are of rare occurrence even in Chili, their 
unfrequency might lead a prisoner to consider it a danger so re- 
mote that the mind would soon cease to dwell upon it, were it not 
for the fact that it is almost constantly brought before him by 
minor shocks, which happen frequently. At the commencement 
of every shock, and even during its continuance, the miserable 
criminal would not be assured that he was not about to be 
crushed and buried beneath the ruins of his prison. Successive 
minor shocks at times accompany a great one, such as utterly 
destroy cities. This is natural. The same causes being in action, 
may easily produce in a greater degree what we actually expe- 
rience in a less ; and what would not be the anxiety of a prisoner 
during such a period, which frequently lasts for weeks. On the 
other hand, as I myself witnessed while in Santiago, a long inter- 
val without a slight shock also terrifies, as it is then supposed 
that the next one will be unusually violent. And thus time after 
time will an unfortunate endure all the bitterness of death, while 
the continual anxiety at all times must prey upon his health. 
Combined v/ith the absolute solitary and silent system, the mind 
must give way and madness ensue, especially when a criminal is 
condemned for a long term ; and I really consider that the addi- 
tional and terrible punishment arising from a constant fear of an 
awful death in confinement ought to be considered iu findino^ the 
sentence. 



RELIGION. 133 



RELIGI07. 

Chili has an archlishop residing in the capital and several 
bishops. 

Convents are rare, as the people are entirely too utilitarian 
and practical to encourage hives of drones who choose to dedi- 
cate themselves to religion for the sole benefit of their own souls, 
and to the detriment of the pockets of others. Theological 
seminaries are encouraged, as there is said to be a deficiency of 
priests to perform the duties required in the various parishes. A 
want of missionaries is also felt on the Araucanian frontier, 
among the partially civilized tribes, to supply which a proposition 
was made by the government some four years ago to the Com- 
pany of Jesus, but the negotiation was broken ofi", because the 
government could not consent to their conditions, which the 
minister of justice declares by no means necessary for the ful- 
filment of the objects for which they were called. A succeeding 
attempt was made to obtain missionaries by application to his 
Holiness through the plenipotentiary in Rome, the success of 
which I did not learn. The ill success of the Indian missions in 
the South does not appear to have discouraged the government, 
which spares no efforts within its reach to Christianize and civilize 
these intractable savages. I doubt, however, whether the mis- 
sionaries are really so disinterested as the government itself is, 
and supposes them to be, and believe that they are more desirous 
of personal comfort, than for the conversion of the Indians. 
The whole number of missions in Valdivia, (the frontier province) 
I did not learn, and the number of Indians contained in what is 
termed a Reduction, ranges from two and three hundred to two 
thousand. As the Indians cannot be made to live in towns or 
villages, another system of teaching is adopted in bringing them 
by turns into the mission, where the amount of their teaching is 
prayers by rote, and confession. The proposed converts, male 
and female, who are kept separate, remain until some old native 
coadjutor of the jpadre has taught them a few prayers, and dur- 
ing this stay they receive their food from the mission for which 



134 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES 



it is compensated bj their labour during their stay. The Indians 
complain that they are frequently retained in the missions for a 
month and more, and of other acts of injustice on the part of 
the missionary, which complaints the Intendant of Valdivia, who 
acted as goyernment visitor, thinks are unfortunately too fre- 
quently well founded. This official appears also to have arrived 
at a conclusion relative to the Indians which is much in accord- 
ance with the experience of all other parts of America, viz., 
that the opposition to civilization is an evil inherent to the race, 
and that the progress of improvement will be always impercepti- 
ble until the race is mingled with, and absorbed by others. One, 
and I am inclined to believe the only benefit derived from these 
missions was the recent publication of an Araucanian dictionary 
and grammar, which though it may be of little use in propagat- 
ing Christianity and civilization cannot but be interesting to the 
philologist. 

The sole remaining and most important branch of this min- 
istry, public instruction, appears to be progressiDg"- steadily, if not 
so rapidly as might be desired. Uniform works have been pub- 
lished by the government and sold at a cheap rate throughout the 
country. Normal schools have been established, and young men 
introduced from various provinces who are intended as teachers 
of the youth. Independent of the primary instruction in the 
common schools, lyceum.s have also been established in various 
interior cities and towns in which the course of Humanities is th'e 
same that has been established in the National Institute of Chili. 
The capital boasts a university and national institute, while the 
cities and principal towns possess their colleges or high schools. 
Education is very generally diffused among the higher classes. 
Among the lower, especially the peasantry, this is unfortunately 
not the case as ypt, although the enlightened exertions of the 
government, and the concentrated state in which the rural 
population generally exists, affords a prospect of great improve- 
ment. 

The University at Santiago attempted a few years ago to 



PUBLIC EXPENSES. 13-1 



modify the Spanish language, by dropping the silent letters. 
For a time this change was generally adopted, and had the ap- 
probation of the government and press, but by degrees the 
Chilians have become aware of the fact that a language spoken 
by some sixty millions of people cannot be changed at once by a 
decree of an academy, or that the example of a remote Repub- 
lie, insignificant in extent, could for a moment influence the 
dialect of the mother country. This system, which owes its ori- 
gin to an Argentine, not a Chilian, possesses no advantage save 
the omission of a few silent letters, while confusion cannot but 
ensue, owing to the fact that the omissions thus practised destroy 
distinctions between words which though similarly pronounced, 
are distinguished from each other by the presence of this silent 
letter in print. Gradually the attempt has been abandoned, and 
I have noted the gradual change during my three visits in 1846, 
'48, and '49. In the first of these years all books, newspapers, 
and government documents were printed in the new style, while 
in the last I found it had been abandoned by the government 
press, and all save a few enthusiasts. The absurdity of thii 
attempt to legislate down a language, ought to have prevented its 
having ever been encouraged, as it really was, by an inteilio-ent 
public and government. 

The public library, which is increasing every year, is very val- 
uable, and contains many rare books and manuscripts. The 
number of volumes I did not learn, but believe it the largest 
in South America, except those of Eio de Janeiro and of Buenos 
Ayres. 

The expense of the Ministry of Justice, Eeligion, and Public 
Instruction in 1846, amounted to $513,814, which I think some- 
what above the average per annum expense, owing to the assis- 
tance given by the government to the building and repair of thir- 
teen churches, some prisons, and the new penitentiary. Of this 
sum $^198,206 was devoted to the Department of Justice, $ 179,517 
to that of Religion, and 1 136,080 for public instruction. 



.36 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



War and Marine^ — Naval and Mercantile.— ^indQ the ad- 
ministration of President Prieto, and his able minister Portales, 
the army of Chili, which was formerly a potent instrument of 
evil, has been kept within moderate limits on the peace establish- 
ment, an object easily and securely attainable, owing to the geo- 
graphical situation of the country, which is bounded by barriers 
making an invasion too difficult to be attempted by their turbu- 
lent and warlike neighbours. At the period of my visit it con- 
sisted of 2991 men, who are divided among the three arms of 
infantry, artillery, and cavalry, in the following proportions. 
Infantry, three battalions of the line, numbering respectively 
three hundred and sixty-nine, three hundred and eighty-four, 
three hundred and ninety-five, and one battalion of light infantry 
numbering three hundred and ninety-six men. The total number 
of artillery is three hundred and ninety men forming a single 
corps. The cavalry consists of two regiments, one chasseurs, 
numbering three hundred and thirty, and one of mounted grena- 
diers of two hundred and fifteen men. There appears to be no 
organized body of engineer troops or military artificers, a corps 
so essential to the operations of an army, and so difficult of 
attainment when wanted in the field. 

General officers are more numerous in proportion to the num- 
ber of troops, and of a higher rank than are found elsewhere on 
this continent, except in Brazil, and consist of two captain-gene- 
rals, one lieutenant-general, six generals of division and four 
brigadier-generals. The rank and number would certainly appear 
disproportionate to the regular military establishment, but it is to 
be considered that these are the officers who command the whole 
military force of the country in the event that it should be called 
upon to take the field, and that a high rank attainable by gal- 
lantry and good conduct, is the most powerful incentive to the 
officer, and one which every sagacious government would do well 
to hold out to those employed in its military establishments."^ 

=^ As much eloquence has recently been wasted in this country on the 
other side of the question, w^e may be excused for quoting the opinions of the 



WAR AND MARINE. 137 



Attached to the Chilian army are twenty-two colonels, forty- 
six lieut. -colonels, sixty-two majors, one hundred and thirty 
captains, twenty-three adjutants, ninety-two lieutenants, eighty- 
six ensigns, six cornets, three surgeons, and four chaplains. 
There are no invalid officers borne on the army-list, and but four 
hundred and fifty-nine rank and file. 

In 1847, the projected expedition of Gen. Flores produc- 
ed no small alarm. The Spanish American republics called the 
attention of the Chilian government to the state of defence on 
the sea-coast, when the minister of war reported that the garrison 
artillery, on account of its age, as well as owing to the improve- 
ments in modern ordnance, required to be renewed ; and an 
order was sent to France for a certain number of pieces of 
heavy calibre, and mounted in accordance with latest improve- 
ments. 

In addition to the sea-coast batteries of iron, a mountain and 
field battery of brass were also ordered. These additions to the 
defensive and offensive military material, gave rise to no ad- 
ditional expense, as the old brass pieces belonging to the forts, 
which were no longer serviceable, were, with the sagacious 
economy which characterises the administration of the public 
affairs of this enterprising little state, exchanged for a more 
serviceable and cheaper material. 

MILITARY ACADEMY. 

The Chilian Military Academy of Santiago is under the super- 
intendence of a brigadier-general, who is assisted by a corps of 
professors, consisting of six captains and a chaplain. The organ- 
greatest soldier-statesman, whose career history has transmitted to us : 
*' Voltaire called soldiers Alexanders at five sous a day. He was right ; 
they are really so. Do you believe that you would ever make men light by 
abstract principles ? Never. Such views are fit only for the scholar in his 
study. For the soldier, as for all men in active life, you must have glory 
and distinction ; recompenses are the food which nourish such qualities.'-' — 
Kapoleon to the Council of State relative to the establishment of a Legion 
of Honour in ISOl. Alison^ vol. xi. p. 199. 



1S8 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



ization is purely military, and niuch time appears to be devoted 
to practical exercises and the duty of the soldier in garrison and 
in the field. The students are divided into two classes — a sec- 
tion of cadets who study for commissioned officers, and a section 
of corporals who prepare*themselves for the duties of non-com- 
missioned officers. The number of cadets at the establishment 
in 1848, was forty-five, while the inferior school consisted of 
thirty-six. The course of studies for the two sections is different. 
That for the cadets consists of 'religion, practical geometry, de- 
scriptive geometry, spherical trigonometry, right-angled trigono- 
metry, elementary geometry, algebra, arithmetic, geography, 
Spanish grammar, French language, tactics, military system and 
regulations, writing, drawing, gymnastics, fencing and military 
exercises. The course for the inferior school, which is more 
limited and appropriate to their future duties, consists of religion, 
algebra, arithmetic, Spanish grammar, writing, drawing, gymnas- 
tics, fencing, and military exercises. 

The tabulated report of the professors, presented by the min- 
ister to the Congress, speaks very favourably for the proficiency 
of the students of both sections. The advantages to be derived 
from a school of non-commissioned officers, has already been felt 
in the Chilian army, and cannot be too highly estimated. Were 
it practicable to introduce it into our own, its advantages would 
be felt immediately, and the necessity which now so frequently 
exists of employing foreigners to fill these positions would soon 
cease to exist. 

The minister of war, in referring to this establishment in his 
report at the close of 1848, remarks, " I will not pass in silence 
the Military Academy, which, for so many reasons, merits the 
special attention of the legislature and the government. The 
rigidity of discipline to which this establishment is submitted is 
notorious, and the morality and respectability which, thanks to 
its influence, is displayed by its pupils. Those who, in a former 
year, were sent to Europe in order to complete their scientific 
education, continue to give proofs of their assiduity, and it is to 



WAR AND MARINE. 139 



be believed that they will not disappoint the hopes to which their 
advancement in Chili gave rise. They have been assigned to 
different arms in schools of reputation ; and a portion of them, 
after terminating the course of studies in military engineering, 
will acquire the necessary knowledge in analogous branches, 
which will admit upon their return of their useful employment in 
civil architecture. Last year eleven cadets and twenty-five cor- 
porals and sergeants left the academy in order to fill vacancies in 
the army. Six cadets have also been assigned to the naval 
service, and it is satisfactory to announce that they have all dis- 
played an aptitude for the service. " 

The domestic economy of the institution appears to be most 
judiciously managed. What the annual cost may be, I had no 
means of ascertaining. By the report of the minister it appears 
that the monthly ration amounts to four dollars for cadets, and 
two dollars thirty-seven and a half cents for the inferior school. 
Provisions are cheap in the interior of Chili, and notwithstand- 
ing this allowance is so small, the rations, as prescribed by regu- 
lation, are of a good quality and ample in quantity. 

I regret that the vacation during my visit to Santiago pre- 
vented my viewing the practical working of this institution. 

NATIOXAL GUARD. 

The National Guard of Chili is divided into artillery, infantry, 
and cavalry. 

The artillery consists of five brigades and two companies, mak- 
ing an aggregate force of one thousand one hundred and forty- 
nine non-commissioned officers and privates. The number of 
officers is thirty-five, including one field officer, while four com- 
pany officers, eight sergeants, and nine musicians belonging to 
the regular army serve with this corps. 

The infantry consists of forty-four battalions and sixteen com- 
panies. Total number of field officers twenty-one, company 
officers nine hundred and eighty-six. Twenty field officers 
thirty-eight company officers, and two hundred and ninety-seven 



140 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



non-commissioned officers and musicians belonging to tlie regular 
establishment, are on duty with this corps as instructors. Total 
force rank and file of infantry, twenty-eight thousand sis hun- 
dred and ninety-eight. 

The cavalry consists of one hundred and fifty-fire squadrons 
snd two companies, containing an aggregate rank and file of 
thirty-six thousand one hundred and thirty-five. The number 
of field officers is eighty-one ; co'mpan}' officers, seven hundred 
and forty-seven. Seventeen field, twenty-eight company officers, 
eighty-two non-commissioned officers and musicians belong- 
ing to the regular army serve with the cavalry of the National 
Guard, 

Total rank and file of National Guard amounts to sixty-five 
thousand nine hundred and eighty-two ; and the number of regu- 
lar officers servino- as instructors is one hundred and thirtv-six, 
including one general as inspector, and three hundred and ninety- 
six non-commissioned officers and musicians. 

In addition to the three corps already specified, there are two 
brigades of firemen, ranking as engineer troops, one of which is 
employed in Valparaiso, and the other in Santiago. The minis- 
ter of war, while expressing himself in his report well satisfied 
with their effi^rts, remarks that being a species of service little 
practised or understood in Chili, it should afi"ord no cause for 
surprise that their discipline should not be so satisfactory as in 
the corps of infantry and cavalry. 

The uniform, arms, and ecjuipments of the National Guard 
are provided by the government, which pays the musicians 
assigned to each battalion and scjuadron. As might be antici- 
pated, it has been found most economical that the arms in the 
provincial and municipal, as well as the general armory at San- 
tiago, should be kept in order at the expense of the general 
government. 

The Chilian National Guard is well drilled, and more efficient 
than that of any country on the continent. This is especially 
the case with the cavalry, whose members are as fine riders as 



WAR AND MARINE. 141 



can be found in any part of the world, while horses are cheap 
and abundant. 

The municipal garrisons are furnished from this force, and 
while actually on duty its members receive a compensation about 
equivalent to that of a daily labourer. Its efficiency is much in- 
creased by the uniformity and regularity of the system, and by 
the fact that it is placed under the inspection and training of 
regular officers of ability and experience. 

Bv its orofanization it is almost out of the power of either the 
government or factious and ambitious individuals, to make it an 
instrument of evil, while its discipline and exercise makes it a 
powerful means of defence, and places Chili, though the smallest 
of the South American States, in the first rank as a military 
power. The expense of the regular establishment for the year 
1845, which is probably a fair average, was §757,575, and that 
of the National Guard, SlS9,371. 

MARIXE. 

Xo species of military force is so expensive as a navy ; it can- 
not, therefore, be expected that Chili, with a popuUition of a 
million acd a half, should attempt to sup-port a large establish 
ment of this character. 

Their entire navy consists of six vessels ; and though a small 
force compared with more important maritime powers, is suf- 
ficient to give them the naval supremacy over all the Spanish 
American republics, including Mexico and every South American 
State except Brazil. The part which the Chilian navy per- 
formed in the war of the E evolution, and subsequently in that 
with the Peru Bolivian Confederation, has been already referred 
to in these pages. 

Though the crude and impromptu materiel which existed dur- 
iDg war has been much reduced, we have still a comparatively 
powerful navy, composed of the following named vessels : 
7^ 



142 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



46 guns 


6 


a 


4 


CQ 


4 


a 



C hile, frigate 5 - 

Janaquio, brigantine, - 

Condor, brig, - - « 

Magellanes, ketch, 

Confederation, transport, 

Maule, packet,^ - - - 

Besides these cruising vessels, there belongs to the naval 
establishment some fourteen gun boats, which, in the absence of 
steam vessels, and especially in the hands of Spaniards or 
their descendants^ render very efficient service in defensive 
operations on the coast. The frigate " Chile," at the period of 
my visit, was disarmed, and in ordinary at Valparaiso. She is 
quite a handsome vessel and a good sailor, and was built, I 
believe, during the war with Peru, at Boulogne, in France. She 
now requires repairs, and the minister of the marine recommends 
that she should be sent to Europe, where it is estimated she 
could be put in an effective condition for seventy thousand dol- 
lars. Her original cost was two hundred and fifty thousand. 

The other vessels of the navy, which are in good and effective 
condition, are employed in guarding the coasts, and keeping up 
the communications with the naval colony of the Straits of Ma- 
gellan. 

In 1845, the Congress appropriated two hundred and thirty 
thousand dollars for the construction of a steamer of nine hun- 
dred tons, three hundred horse power, and two brigs ; but the 
estimates for the cost of these vessels being much greater in 
France, where they were ordered to be constructed, than the 
sum specified in the appropriation, the minister proposes to build 
a steamer of two hundred and fifty horse power, and seven hun- 
dred tons, and one brig. The cost of the steamer, according to 
estimates sent from France, will be one hundred and seventy- 
seven thousand eight hundred and fifty, while the brig will cost 

=^ Sinc^ writing the above, I noticed in a newspaper that a sloop of war 
had been built in Valparaiso, 1851. 



WAR AND MARINE. 14 



thirty -seven thousand five hundred. Adding three per cent, as 
the compensation of the agents employed, and the ten per cent, 
cost in the exchansre, the sum total would be two hundred and 
forty-niiie thousand eight hundred, or nineteen thousand eight 
hundred dollars above the amount appropriated by Congress for 
the construction of this additional force. 

NAVAL ACADEMY. 

A naval school, intended also for the mercantile marine, for- 
merly existed in Valparaiso, which the minister states gave satis- 
faction ; but as the st^idents received a salary from the govern- 
ment, it was found too expensive for the limited financial 
resources of the country, and was suppressed in 1847. 

In lieu of this academy, a naval school was established on 
board the frigate Chile, on a more economical plan, where officers 
attached to the ship are professors. 

As has been mentioned in the review of the war department, 
a number of pupils from the military school were on service in 
the navy, and the intention of the government is to obtain here- 
after pupils from this establishment for the navy, who after 
receiving, as the minister remarks, " the preparatory instruction 
indispensable to all officers in an honourable profession, will 
complete their naval instruction, theoretical and practical, on 
board the frigate Chile.'' 

" In order," remarks the minister, ^' that the extinction of the 
naval school may not prejudice the mercantile marine, orders 
have been expedited to open a school for the purpose of teachicg 
navigation in Valparaiso, under the direction of the captain of 
the port, where any who wish to prepare themselves for the 
duties of captains of vessels or navigators (pilotos), will receive 
gratuitous instruction." 

In this, as well as most other provisions made by the Chilian 
* government, a strong desire will be observed to render econom- 
ical and efficient service to the country ; and I confess that I 
have Rowhere observed officials who seemed more sincerely actu- 



Ml CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES, 



ated by true patriotism, tinconnected with a disposition to elec- 
tioneer for a higher place, or a continuation in that already held, 
or desire to enrich themselves by jobbing at the expense of the 
people, 

SEAMEN. 

As under existing laws compulsory service cannot be required 
of Chilian seamen, a deficiency is' accordingly observed in the 
naval marine. 

The remedy which had before been applied by the government 
was to enlist boys, who, taught in the navy, are said to be free 
from many of the -vices which characterize those who are drawn 
from the mercantile marine. 

Many seamen in the Chilian navy are foreigners, principally 
English and Americans, who, discharged or deserting at Valpa- 
raiso or Talcahuano, readily find employment, as their serYiccs 
are always in demand. 

MARINES. 

Undername of brigade of naval infantry, consists of only two 
companies — a force, according to the minister's report, entirely 
insufficient for the wants of the vessels in commission, for the 
garrisoning of the seaports of the republic, and the penal colo- 
nies of Juan Fernandez and Magellan. 

The notorious relaxation produced among the troops of the 
regular army, by employing them in duties which pertain to ma- 
rines from the nature of their organization, induces the minister 
to recommend an increase of this corps to four companies, and 
to make it their especial duty to guard the coast, sea-board, 
colonies, and supply a military force for the vessels in commis- 
sion. This increase would raise the whole corps to four hun- 
dred and eighty-four, and their head-quarters would be fixed at 
Valparaiso. 

The increased expense the minister considers incommensurate 
with the benefit to be derived, and pertinently emarks that '' the 



WAR AND MARINE. 145 



public income has no otlier object than to subserve the properly- 
understood interests of the nation.'' 

The number of officers in the Chilian navy is sixty, including 
one vice-admiral who is stationed at Valparaiso as intendant of 
the province, and commandant-general of the navy ; one post- 
captain (capitan de navio), three captains of frigates, one brevet 
captain, eight commanders, three first lieutenants, seven second 
lieutenants, one passed midshipman, sixteen midshipmen, one 
chief surgeon, four surgeons of the second class, five account- 
ants, one naval constructor, one engineer, and four masters. Three 
officers are temporarily retired from duty. The officers of the 
marine brigade are, one major, two captains, one adjutant, and 
four lieutenants. Of these officers the last four were elevated 
from the ranks for distinguished services. 

Several officers in the navy and marine corps are decorated 
with medals struck in commemoration of the great victories 
achieved by the forces of the republic. 

Amonoj the naval officers are fourteen names indicative of 
English origin. Commodore Simpson, whom I met in February, 
1848, at Callao, in command of the frigate Chile, being the 
second officer in rank in the navy. 

The pay of the officers is not quite so large as that for corres- 
ponding grades in our navy, though promotion being more rapid 
it will be found to correspond very nearly when length of service 
is taken as a basis. It was only in 1846 or 1847 that the pay 
was elevated to its existing standard ; and the minister, touching 
upon the subject in his annual report to Congress, remarks, that 
'' whatever expense it may be to the treasury (and, in truth, it is 
not very great), it is well compensated by the active and zealous 
service which imposes upon its members' increasing privations 
and perils." 

The expense of the navy during the fiscal year ending in 1845, 
was one hundred and twenty-eight thousand six hundred and 
twenty-four dollai's, making total expense of military establish- 



146 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



ment one million seventy-five thousand five hundred and seventy- 
one dollars. 



THE MERCANTILE MARINE 

of Chili numbers altogether one hundred and four vessels, forty- 
five of which are engaged in foreign trade, one in the whale 
fishery, and the remainder in the coasting trade. 

Thirty-five vessels are of national construction ; two over two 
hundred tons, aofo^re^ate tonnao-e five hundred and two tons ; 
twelve over one hundred tons, aggregate tonnage one thousand 
four hundred and sixty-six tons ; twenty-one under one hundred 
tons, aggregate one thousand one hundred and ninety-seven tons. 
Total tonnage of national construction, three thousand one hun- 
dred and sixty-five tons. 

Of naturalized vessels there were eight, varying about three 
hundred tons, aggregate two thousand seven hundred and three 
tons ; twenty-one over two hundred tons, making an aggregate 
of five thousand two hundred and eighty-eight tons ; thirty-four 
over one hundred tons, formino- an a^crve^Site of five thousand 

7 o cc o 

two hundred and eighty-eight ; and six of less than one hundred 
tons, making an aggregate of five hundred and twenty-six tons. 

The aggregate naturalized tonnage is thirteen thousand eight 
hundred and five tons, which added to the three thousand one 
hundred and sixty-five of national tonnage, gives us sixteen 
thousand nine hundred and seventy tons for the mercantile ton- 
nage of Chili at the close of the year 1848.* 

Of the foreign bottoms naturalized in Chili, thirty-two were 
built in the United States and nine in En2:land. The remaininoj 
twenty-seven are divided between France, Hamburgh, Denmark, 
Austria, Brazil, and the East Indies. 

^ Owing to the extensive trade in flour recently opened between Chili 
and California, their tonnage has doubtless increased considerably. — 1851. 



CHAPTER XL 



SKETCHES IN CHILI. 



During my agreeable stay of a week in Ssintiago, I had not 
neglected the preparations for my journey across the Cordilleras, 
and had several times attempted to make something like an 
equitable arrangement for my transportation to Mendoza. It 
becominor known amono; the owners of horses and mules that 
such was my intention, I was besieged by many offers, the fellows 
attempting to pounce upon my purse like so many Condors of 
the Andes upon the carcase of a defunct Guanaco ; but, though 
willing to be moderately fleeced, they found me unprepared for 
any operation which might approach the skin so nearly as that 
which they proposed. At length, however, I met what at first 
blush appeared a most eligible opportunity to continue my journey, 
having been introduced to an Englishman, whose son, a resident 
of Mendoza, was about to return to that place. The father pro- 
posed that I should purchase two mules from his son, and that we 
should travel in company, each one bearing an equal share of the 
expenses of the journey, at the termination of which I should be 
domiciled with him in Mendoza. The price of the mules was 
^52.50, and I was assured that on my arrival I could dispose of 
them for at least ^34.00, or two ounces, while the expences of 
the journey would be trifling. The arrangement was duly made, 
the money paid for the mules, the young man Don Frederico, a 
regular " petit maitre," duly dined and feted at the Hotel Ingles, 



i4§ CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



in anticipation of the good fellowship destined hereafter to exist 
between us, and the 27th fixed upon as the day of our departure. 
As that day was also fixed upon for the departure of my two 
friends, who had been my constant companions for the three pre- 
ceding months, we had much to discuss, and 1 a.m. found us 
together. Grief at parting is conducive to hunger and thirst, the 
wherewithal we had not to satisfy until we roused our friend Cap- 
tain L— — - from his comfortable slumbers, and urged him to use 
his potent influence in the house to obtain the requisites. This 
he did in a somewhat primitive manner by turning out a servant, 
and sending him for a chisel, with which locks were broken, and 
we very soon had all that we desired. 

At 3 A.M., we were aroused by the arrival of the Birlocha, 
which was to convey them to Valparaiso, and after an afiectionate 
adieu, mutual and hearty good wishes for each others' welfare, we 
p.irted. Since which time we have never met. Thus was broken 
the last link which bound me to the good old " Lexington ;" and 

as L and myself, while awaiting daylight, smoked our cigars 

in the now deserted room, I began to appreciate the loneliness of 
the task which I had undertaken. 

A bright sun, a smiling landscape, the cool breeze of morning, 
and a rapid pace are sworn enemies to blue devils ; and at 6 a.m., 
while galloping over the level plains to the eastward of the city, 
my regret at parting with my friends was gradually dispelled in 
the pleasing prospect of a future meeting, while my sense of lone- 
liness immediately vanished, and my enterprise and mental 
activity returned to me. I agree with Mirabeau, that highway 
robbery, burglary, and such like respectable employments, which 
are principally practised under cover of night and alone, require 
a higher degree of physical courage than to storm a breach on 
board an enemy's vessel, and confess that I have always found 
myself less brave and enterprising at night, and when alone. 
I wonder if every one is not similarly affected, if they would 
have the candour to acknowlege it. 

Our cortege consisted of Don Frederico, who was mounted 



SKETCHES IX CHILI. 149 



on a mule. Lis peon Bertoklo, "^^lio rode a large, raw-boned, black 
horse, remarkable for his flea-bitten ears, the shortness of the 
tail, which appeared to have become bald from age, and his 
excessive thinness, which would hare put to shame the highly 
wrought description of Don Quixote's Rosinante ; and a small 
Chilian boy, who, mounted on a mule led a young and vicious 
colt, a present which Don Frederico had received from his father, 
and whose principal amusement appeared to be kicking at any object 
which came within reach of its long legs ; and from which my 
mule and mvself were destined to receive more than one favour 
during our journey. A description of the peculiarities of the 
party will appear in the course of the narrative, and in this place 
I will only remark that Frederico was a plausible scamp, who had 
inherited from his father, who was originally ahorse jockey, all his 
talents for disposing at a high price very worthless animals, and 
just English enough to swear with great fluency and grammat- 
ical accuracy in that language, but not enough for any other pur- 
pose under heaven ; that Bertoldo was a good horsemen, wore a 
head dress, which admitting that a hat of ordinary height might 
be taken as zero, or one story high, was certainly six on the same 
scale, and appeared to make a religious duty to get drunk as often 
as an opportunity offered ; and the boy, who could never keep 
awake by day or night, and who led us off the road in more than 
one instance, by quietly dropping asleep while in his saddle. 
"With this charming party, accompanied by a very jaded looking 
mule, of which I was informed 1 was the happy owner, behold the 
'' nephew of my uncle," as Gil Bias has said, availing myself of 
the coolness of the morning to travel rapidly, in order that I 
might give rest to the animals during the excessive heat of the 
noontide hours. The country which we now traversed was well 
cultivated ; its surface being for most part covered with fields of 
wheat, which were enclosed on the road side by walls of aclole. 
The houses of the wealthy, as usual in Chili, were found far from 
the road, and near the centre of the estate, while those of the 
poorer classes, which are built of adoley and thatched with 



150 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



wheaten straw, generally border upon the road. The road, which 
is adapted to carriages, is very well constructed, and kept in con- 
stant repair ; many men were employed upon it, as I passed, and 
I observed that the labourers used the crow invariably instead of 
the pickaxe. In all instances the country people, whether on a 
journey or at work, politely and respectfully raise their hats to 
strangers as they pass. During the morning, we passed many 
guasitas^ or young country girls on horseback, and generally at fall 
gallop. As we advanced on our journey the scenery improved, the 
country being more thoroughly cultivated, the fields of wheat more 
extensive, while rural chapels with their surrounding cottages, 
shaded by the poplars and surrounded by grass plats, became 
more numerous. About half-past nine, we rode through a fine 
poplar avenue, bordered on each side by farm houses and evi- 
dences of successful cultivation, into the small village of Colinas, 
where with appetites whetted by a ride of twenty-one miles in the 
morning breeze, which had been cooled before being put in 
motion by its night's repose among the snowy summits of 
the Andes, we sat down to a frugal breakfast of the invariable 
casuela.j which has been heretofore described. 

Our peon Bertoldo and the boy had a separate table, a dis- 
tinction always made in Chili between masters and servants, but 
by no means invariable in South America. In the Argentine 
Provinces, the Guacho whom you may hire, considers himself your 
equal, and expects to share with you all the comforts or discom- 
forts of the road ; this is also the case in the empire of Brazil, 
which, though an empire in name is more essentially democratic 
in its social relations than any country in which I have travelled. 
Very few free men, whatever may be their colour or origin, will in 
that country hire themselves as servants, at least under that name. 
, The muleteer or the boy whom you may hire to care for your 
• baggage will insist upon his. title of Cpmarado — comrade, and 
expects to eat and drink with his employer — thus I have seen at 
the long table of a Brazilian Baron, whose wealth enabled, as his 
inclination prompted, to keep open house for all comers and 



SKETCHES IN CHILI. 151 



goers, the guests and servants seated at the same table, the only 
distinction being shown by the vicinity to the entertainer. 

After breakfast, we proceeded on our journey, which led us 
through a fine champagne country, where the light straw colour 
of the ripened wheat contrasted pleasingly with the bright green 
of the meadows, or the exotic foliage which generally surrounded 
the houses of the landholders, or the cottages of the peasantry, 
while ever and anon the rural church with isolated belfry shewed 
that the recipients of the blessings showered upon this fair land 
were not unmindful of their gratitude which they owed to the 
Almighty donor. 

It being the season for collecting the harvest, it was a festival 
in Chili, and we passed many jovial parties of peasantry who 
were employed in treading out the grain of the proprietors upon 
whose respective estates their own cottages were located, and to 
whose liberality they owed the land which they cultivated for the 
support of themselves and families. That they should assist in 
taking in the harvest is one of the conditions upon which they 
hold their lands, but instead of being an onorous service, it ap- 
peared to be a general festival, and I have no where seen more 
boisterous hilarity among the people than upon these occasions, 
such scenes of mirth, and merriment, in which males and females 
alike appeared to participate, greeted us in every direction near 
the road side, while in the distance, as far as the eye could reach, 
an appearance of a light cloud over the field would mark the spot 
where other parties were winnowing the grain in the open field, 
with the aid of the steady breeze. 

About half past two in the afternoon, we arrived at the Posada 
of Chacabuco, a large hostelrie, somewhat in the same style of 
those heretofore described at Casa Blanca, and Curucubi. While 
attending in the stables to see that our animals were properly fed, 
I observed a series of mangers, formed of hard clay, so firmly 
beaten as to resist efi'ectually the effects of time, and which is one 
of the expedients to which the absence of timber obliges the people 
of this part of Chili to resort. Our dinner was speedily prepared 



152 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES 



and discussed, when having nothing to occupy our time, and being 
somewhat fatigued by a ride of forty-two miles since daylight, 
Don Frederico and myself retired to the room which had been 
prepared for us by our bustling and industrious host. 

Havino: fine moonlio;ht nights, we intended to start at two in 
the morning, in order to arrive at San Felipe before the heat of 
the day ; but by some mistake we arose at midnight, and were on 
the road by one o'clock. Having retired at about nine, it gave 
us only three hours sleep, and having had none the night before, 
I suffered from an uncontrollable drowsiness, and frequently fell 
into a doze upon my saddle. A short time after leaving the 
Posada, we left the main road, and struck the original mule path, 
which led more directly to the summit of the mountain, and 
found it almost impassable, filled as it was with stones, and fre- 
quently bordering upon precipices, which it was even dangerous 
to pass at night. This was one of the short cuts which I have 
found country people everywhere prefer, and which are my pecu- 
liar aversion, as the gain in distance is almost invariably more 
than compensated by the difficulties of the road, which add to the 
fatio-ue of men and animals. The beautiful alleo-ory of Obidah 
the son of Abensinah, was the object of one of my earliest efforts 
at deciphering my vernacular, and I have never forgotten the 
moral of the story ; and however much I may morally have strayed 
from the beaten track, I have always been averse to doing so in 
the practical details of a journey. I give this hint and allusion for 
the benefit of future travellers, my opinions being founded upon 
a rough and painful experience, as my unpublished history would 
demonstrate. At the summit of the Cuesta of Chacabuco, an 
eminence rendered historical by the defeat of the Spanish forces 
by the army of San Martin, the path which we had hitherto 
pursued joined the carriage road, with which our recent experi- 
ence induced every one to be contented ; and now having no 
longer the fear of rocks and precipices before my eyes, I man- 
aged to obtain a little rest upon my saddle as we descended. No 
one who has not experienced the feeling, can realize the utter 



SKETCHES IN CHILI. 153 



distress of extreme drowsiness while riding on horseback at night, 
when the indistinctness and blending of the surrounding objects 
appears to exercise a magnetic iDfluence. I have kept many a 
watch on board ship, imder all and every circumstance incident 
to a sea life, but never suffered to the same extent from the same 
cause. 

From the summit of this hill the view is said to be remarkably 
fine, but owing to the darkness it was lost to us, and day dawned 
only as we reached the level country. Hence to San Felipe, our 
road lay through a level and well cultivated plain abounding in 
wheat, hemp, and broom corn, while the roadside was bordered 
by cottages so numerous and so close together, that it had the 
appearance of a street in a populous village. Country houses 
belonging to the proprietors too were numerous, and as usual, 
apart from the road, and approached by an avenue. 

From the foot of the Cuesta, a distance of some ten miles, wo 
continued our journey, crossing as we neared the city, the river of 
Aconcagua, a considerable mountain torrent, several times by 
fording. The left bank was that which we generally pursued 
and found the country in its vicinity more than ordinarily fertile 
and populous, while divers rustic bridges joining its generally 
abrupt and elevated banks, were pleasing and tasteful features in 
the landscape. Xear the city, a tributary stream increased 
considerably the volume of the ice cold torrent, which we forded 
with difficulty owing to the depth of the water, the strength 
of the current, and the large rocks at the bottom, which only 
required to be touched to be set in motion. Below us was the 
ruins of the bridge which had been destroyed by a recent 
freshet. 

Having achieved our difficult passage, we found ourselves in 
the suburbs, where we separated from our baggage and jpcoiis^ and 
repaired directly to the house of Don Frederico's uncle, where 
he proposed to breakfast, and await the cool of the evening, 
having already made thirty-three miles from the Posado of Cha- 
<!abuco. Now, by some mischance, it so happened, that my mule 



154 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES, 



Lad formed a sudden and violent attachment for Bertoldo's honey, 
not bonny black horse, equal in intensity, and doubtless of a simi- 
lar character to that of Rozinante and Dapple, as celebrated by 
Cervantes. This attachment, though not unobserved on the pre- 
vious day, and on this morning, had caused me no inconvenience, 
but, no sooner had we separated from the baggage animals and 
their drivers, than my mule refused to advance, but being per- 
suaded thereto by my spurs, uttered a lamentable bray, which 
brought all the neighbourhood to their doors. As we proceeded 
through the town, much to my annoyance, he again favoured us 
with other specimens of his vocal powers, and finally, as we crossed 
the public square where a military band was practising in the 
barracks, he stopped short, and lifted up his voice in such a man- 
ner as to stop the music instanter, and bring bandsmen, soldiers, 
and all the residents to their doors, when a hearty laugh was 
indulged in at my expense, " Swoni la tromlay It was not the 
first time I had seen a traveller's arrival announced by an ass in 
an allegorical sense, but certainly the first instance which had 
fallen under my notice, where it was effected by the quadruped 

or his half-brother in propria persona. As I sat spurring and 

in the most forcible Spanish and English I could muster, urging 
the obstinate beast to proceed, I thought of Balaam the son of 
Beor, with a degree of sympathy which I had not heretofore 
experienced in behalf of the false prophet of Moab. Truly, thought 
I, if he spake in the mode and manner of my mule, very excusa- 
ble wert thou for wishing that there were a sword in thy hand, 
that thou might'st slay him. 

Having been laughed at by about one third of the inhabitants, 
my evil genius consented to proceed tg the gate of the house 
where we intended to pass the day, and there announced my 
arrival with a heraldic flourish which would have put to blush 
the enchanted trumpets of the ancient novelists. 

The uncle of my companion being absent, we were received by 
a male and female cousin ; the latter married, though still young, 
and apparently in the last stage of consumption. She had been 



SKETCHES IN CHILI. 155 



pretty, and the air of resigned melancholy made her interesting, 
while she looked and conversed as one no longer pertaining to 
this world. The levity of her brother and my companion at first 
struck me as inappropriate and unfeeling, until I had reflected 
and remembered that the progress of the disease had been so 
gradual, that they probably did not appreciate its near approach 
to a consummation. She soon left us, when taking no interest 
in the family discussions which succeeded, I quietly composed 
myself on my chair for a snooze, from which I was finally awa- 
kened by hearing my name pronounced by Frederico, and reluct- 
antly opening my heavy eye-lids, saw before me a very handsome 
and interesting girl awaiting an introduction, and smiling at the 
predicament in which she found me. In an instant it flashed 
through my mind, that this was the Dona Delfina against whose 
charms I had been warned before leaving Santiago, and attempt- 
ing to rise and salute her, I found my spur entangled in my 
jponcho^ and fell back upon my seat. In my next attempt I was 
more successful, and a kindly shake of the hand, and a frank 
welcome, immediately relieved me from my embarrassment. 

She had apparently understood that I was an Englishman, and 
her first inquiry was whether this was my first visit to America, 
and being set right in this particular, immediately congratulated 
me on the valuable acquisitions of my countrymen on the coasts 
of the Pacific. The conversation becoming general she displayed 
a knowledge of history and geography which I have seldom seen 
equalled by a young woman in any part of the world, and a know- 
ledge of the important political events which had just transpired 
in Europe, which surprised me exceedingly. Upon this subject 
she asked me some questions, with much apparent interest, which 
I was so unfortunate as not to be able to answer, and was obliged 
to confess she had much more information upon the subject than 
myself, as, during the recent and important events to which she 
alluded, I had been at sea or on the coasts of Mexico and Cali- 
fornia, and, consequently, out of the way of newspapers. Turn- 
ing to a table I found a small collection of books, such as I never 



CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



expected to have met at this remote point, and among them th at 
inimitable creation of Madame de Stael, Corinne, and the French 
Encyclopedist, in the original. Her hesitating negative to my 
inquiry whether she had read the latter was fully contradicted by 
the blush which suffused her countenance, and by the various in- 
dications which her conversation gave of a naturally inquiring 
mind. 

At about 10 o'clock a. m., our interesting ^' tete a tete" was 
interrupted by the announcement of breakfast, when my fair 
friend presided with elegance over a substantial repast. Up to 
the time I met her I was perfectly contented with my travelling 
apparel, and my personal appearance generally, but such is the 
influence of female beauty upon manners, no sooner was break- 
fast over than I stole away, and, putting myself under the hands 
of a professor of the tonsoreal art, returned as tidy and captiva- 
ting as the ground work upon which he operated, and my limited 
wardrobe would permit. 

Accompanied by Don Frederico, I went also to take out my 
passport for leaving the country, which cost four dollars. Had I 
listened to his suggestions, I might have saved three dollars and 
a half, but my pride would have prevented my adoption of his 
plan, even had I been less scrupulous. It was simply that I should 
pass for his '• employee," or clerk, in which case the charge would 
be but four reals. I must say that his proposition struck me as 
one of the most dsihonest pieces of impudence which ever came 
under my notice, and I should assuredly have told him as much 
had not my tongue been restrained by the charms of his cousin. 
At mid-day our hostess suggested a siesta^ which I declined, 
hoping to enjoy in lieu of it the pleasure of her conversation, but 
my nap in the chair in the morning rose in judgment against my 
assertion that I was not at all drowsy, and, nolens volens^ I was 
put to bed, or rather I was put into a room with a bed, whose 
snow-white linen I could not obtain my own consent to soil 
with my dusty clothing ; so I laid down on the tiled floor, using 
it only for a pillow. I slept profoundly until four o'clock, when I 



SKETCHES IN CHILL 157 



was awoke by the announcement of dinner, which had been 
carefully got up for the occasion, and, as I flattered myself, in 
honour of my own presence. A pleasant journey across the moun- 
tains and plains, and my future happiness was kindly drank in 
champagne, an unusual beverage for the country. During dinner 
my pretty hostess, who had already made four trips across the 
Cordillera from Mendoza, of which city she was a native, direct- 
ed my attention to the Lago Encantada and the Puente del Inca, 
the two objects most worthy of observation in the passage of the 
mountains, and gave me some pertinent advice as to my travelling 
arrangements. 

After dinner, and while alone with her, she informed me that 
her father was a refugee from Mendoza, whence he had been 
driven to Chili, on account of his political opinions, and gave me 
a better insight into the political state of the Transmontale Pro- 
vinces than I have received from any other person. Her opin- 
ions were fearlessly expressed, and as I listened admiringly to her 
eloquent denunciations of the petty tyrants who rule her native coun- 
try, I could not but believe what I had frequently heard asserted 
by foreign residents, that, in courage and independence of thought, 
the Argentine women are vastly superior to the men. She smiled, 
but with an air of stern determination, at my proposition that she 
should assist in liberating her country by raising a regiment of 
her own sex, and thanked me for my offer to serve under her 
banner. With all hey mildness and refinement of manner, there 
was in her the same spirit which burned in Jo8.n de Arc, the Ar- 
mida of Sarro, and the Maid of Sarragossa, and I felt con- 
vinced that her sex only prevented her from making herself known 
as a heroine. Neither do I believe that, female as she is, she would 
be by any means a contemptible opponent, as she is a fearless 
and skilful rider, and the fact that she had more than once ridden 
from Mendoza to San Felipe, across the summit and through the 
dangerous passes of the Andes^ a distance of more than two hun- 
dred miles, in four days, gave an earnest of her abilities to endure 
the fatigue and privations of a campaign. That her acquirements 
8 



158 CHILI AND THE ARGEXTIXE PROVINCES. 



should have been so extended, considering the few inducements 
and opportunities afforded in the monotonous life in an interior 
city, almost unknown to commerce and strangers, pointed her out 
as a remarkable woman, and I did not require her acknowledgment 
to feel assured that her mind chafed when she reflected upon the 
limited sphere to which she was condemned. It was six o'clock 
in the evening when I attended to the repeated announcement of 
Frederico that our animals awaited us at the door, and turned to 
take leave of my hostess, in whom I must confess I felt more than 
an ordinary interest. She assured me, however, that if I remain- 
ed a week at Mendoza, as I anticipated, she would see me there, 
as she intended to start in a few days : and I afterwards learned 
that she was prevented from making her promise good by the 
dangerous illness of her sister, who was attacked with a violent 
hemorrhage of the lungs, which doubtless immediately preceded 
her dissolution. It must not, however, be understood that the 
journey was planned with reference to meeting me, as it had been 
for some time intended. 

This, then, was the bright spot in my journey, and Sencrita 
DeljphiiWj the Heroine ; and I turned from her house with feelings 
of profound regret, and anticipated nothing in my future wan- 
derings which could compensate me for my sudden separation 
from one in whom I had been so thoroughly interested, and in 
whose isolation from society which could appreciate her. and which 
she could enjoy, I so heartily sympathized. • 

The town of San Felipe, through which we rode at sunset, is au 
incorporate city, containing about twelve thousand inhabitants, 
and is the capital of the fertile agricultural province of Acon- 
cagua. Its streets are wide, laid out at right angles, and the 
dwellings of the inhabitants, which are generally but one story 
high, owing to the prevalence of earthquakes, well constructed, 
and neatly whitewashed; Its ornaments are two Aleineidas^ 
enclosing two sides of the city, and composed of several rows of 
poplars, which shade the pleasant walks to which the inhabitants 
resort in the cool of the evening for their promenade. One of 



a. 



en 



SKETCHES IN CHILI. 159 



these pleasant promenades is called Yungai, in honour of tho 
victory gained by the Chilians over Santa Cruz, in the north of 
Peru. Leaving the suburbs, we forded the river, where we took 
leave of the male cousin who had thus far accompanied us, 
a compliment frequently paid to strangers in various parts of 
South America. For a mile after passing the river, the country 
was somewhat rough and rocky ; after which, we traversed a level 
road, bordered on each side by the cottages and gardens of the 
peasantry, which were more numerous than I had f3und them else- 
where, even in this thickly inhabited country. For more than four 
leagues and a quarter, the road resembled the street of a strag- 
gling village, with here and there a rustic church, while the 
peasantry sitting in front of their comfortable cottages, and chat- 
ting with their families or those of their neighbours, presented a 
scene of quiet comfort, which I could not but enjoy, although by 
no means in the best mood for receivings agreeable impressions. 
The roads being good, the night cool, and the animals fresh, the 
time passed rapidly ; and, at about half-past nine, we found our- 
selves, very much to my surprise, in the pleasantly situated town 
of Santa Rosa de las Andes, where we intended to pass the night. 
There being no Posada., we were at first embarrassed for a resting 
place, but at length managed to hire a vacant room, where after 
bribing our stomachs into quiet submission to the deprivation of 
their evening repast with a glass of aquadente., we laid ourselves 
down to sleep on the damp earthern floor, with our saddles for 
pillows, my last act of consciousness being a hearty growl at 
my travelling companion, who had refused the kind invitation to 
remain in San Felipe, where I might have enjoyed for a few hours 
longer the society of the interesting Deljphina., and an effort to 
distinguish the hour of the night, as it was plaintively, yet sweetly 
announced by the serenos^ who patrolled the street. 

March 1. — Rose early, and managed to obtain a frugal repast, too 
frugal indeed to meet our views, considering that our dinner at San 
Felipe had been our last meal. Afterward I visited the governor 
of the department, in order to have my passport viseed, and 



160 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



endeavoured to obtain some local information \vithout success^ 
as this functionary evidently belonged to tliat school of officials, 
so invariable in England, who appear to suspect every stranger 
of being a thief, if not an enemy to be dreaded, and consider any 
civility utterly lost upon him. I was, however, so fortunate as to 
Uiake some purchases from an intelligent merchant, who gave me 
the information I had in vain attempted to obtain from the 
governor. The department of Santa Rosa, he informed me, was 
one of the richest and most productive of the Republic, abound- 
ing especially in wheat, and other agricultural products, although 
it has also mines of silver and copper. The population of the 
department is about 40,000, and that of the town 4,000, and the 
number of the national guard in the town alone, four hundred. The 
country is generally healthy, being subject to no endemic or epide- 
mic diseases. It is true there are isolated case of goitre^ which 
disease appears to be slightly on the increase, but has not yet 
assumed the formidable character which it presents on the other 
side of the mountains. Here, as from sources worthy of confi- 
dence in Santiago, I was informed that the goitre was unknown 
in Chili, until some twenty years ago, when it made its appearance 
simultaneously with the introduction of the poplars from Mendoza. 
This being the frontier town, the duties on imports from the 
Argentine Provinces are collected at the Custom House. Among 
other dutiable articles are cattle and horses, and I was not a little 
amused at the manner in which my companion, Frederico, imposed 
upon the Custom House officials. When he came from Mendoza 
a few weeks before, he had with him several horses and mules, 
which he announced it his intention to take back with him, and 
instead of paying the duties, he gave security that they should 
be paid in the event that he should dispose of them in Chili. 
How many he had originally I do not know, but two mules had 
now become my property, two others, perhaps serviceable 
animals, had been exchanged for miserable worn out hacks, upon 
which Bertoldo and the boy were mounted. The vicious, 
unbroken colt, had doubtless taken the place of another animal, 



SKETCHES IN CHILI. 161 



\\lilcli bad been disposed of in Cbili. Wbetber tbe number 
with which he retui-ned, was the same as that with which he had 
entered the country, I do not know, but observed that he had 
my animals recorded as his own, thus saving the duties upon 
them, and if the hacks which he substituted did not make up the 
full complement, he was obliged to pay only upon the deficiency. 
A knowledge of these facts I obtained only by hearing his con- 
versation with the officers, as he doubtless intended to have kept 
it a secret from me, and my attention was first attracted by his 
barefaced assertion that my mules were his property, which he 
had loaned to me for the journey. A shrewd diplomatist and 
financier was Don Frederico, the companion whom fortune had 
given me, a fact of which I had still fm-ther evidence during the 
day, when he borrowed some twenty-five dollars which he always 
forgot to refund. While in the house of my affable and commu- 
nicative friend, the merchant, we were introduced to^ joung 
gentleman from the Argentine province of San Juan, who being 
also on his way to Mendoza, offered to be our companion, a pro- 
position to which both my companion and myself assented. His 
name was Astorga, and he informed us that he would be ready at 
any hour we might think fit to set out, aud mentioned the house 
of a friend in the suburbs where he would be found. Eeturnincr 
to our lodgings, we dined and had our siesta^ which is seldom 
omitted in this country, and saddling up, set out on our journey 
towards the mountain, which now towered in awful majesty above 
us. The town of Santa Rosa, or Andes, as it is more generally 
termed in Chili, contains, as has been before mentioned, about 
4,000 inhabitants, is laid out with great regularity, with a large 
square in the centre. The town itself is a perfect square, and is 
bounded on every side by a beautiful Alameda. The houses, as 
usual, are of one story, the streets well paved, while through the 
greater number of them runs a small mountain stream of 
icy coldness. Altogether, it was one of the prettiest towns I 
had seen in Chili, yet its beauty did not reconcile me to the loss 



162 riilLI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



of some twenty hours which might have been better passed at 
San Felipe. 

Findino' that we were leavino^ the town without calling- for 
Astorga, I reminded, my comrade of the fact, when he stated 
that he might have gone ah^eady, and if not, and we should by 
accident meet him again, we could say that we sought him, but 
could not find him. His reply made me more anxious to have 
another travelling companion, as-I was now thoroughly disgusted 
with Don Frederico, who evidently wished me to have no one in 
the party to whom I could refer except himself. Leaving the 
town, the scenery began to assume a different character, and the 
road led us by various windings, through several fertile and well 
cultivated valleys, artificially irrigated by numerous mountain 
streams. Passing near a mill by the roadside, we met a party of 
travellers, one of whom proved to be a Mendosino^ an acquaint- 
ance of dny companion, who was on his way to Valparaiso to re- 
claim a bride to whom he had a short time previous been married 
by proxy. Learning that I was an American, he immediately 
addressed me in Eno^lish, and informed me that he had been 
educated in Philadelphia, and at parting, desired me to inform 
Mr. Somebody and family (whose names were jolted out of my 
cranium during the next two days' hard riding.) of that city that 
he was well, and had just been married. Should these pages meet 
the eye of any one answering to the description already given, 
they are at liberty to appropriate the inteUigence, and the mes- 
sages of kindly remembrance which accompanied it. The road 
now commenced a gradual ascent, leading over a rude though 
substantial stone bridge, to the pass or guard where our passports 
were examined by a sociable old fellow, whose love of society had 
not been decreased by his solitary mode of life, and who insisted 
that we should smoke a gi^slv and have a chat with him. Night 
overtook us soon after leaving the pass, when commenced a 
chapter of annoyances which so frequently beset the traveller. 
My saddle being intended for a horse, was too large for the mule, 
and in consequence, T lost the sweat cloth from under it, and it 



SKETCHES IN CHILI. • 163 



not being the custom of the country to use a crupper, it and my- 
self nearly went over the beast's head, while going down a steep 
hill. Next the boy, who had charge of my cloak and the led 
horse, fell asleep and lost them, thus involving a long delay, 
while Bertoldo returned for them. Finally, at about nine 
o'clock, the cheerful glimmering of a light announced the vicinity 
of the Lotos ^ a miserable cottage where we intended to pass the 
night. I have frequently entered a more pretending habitation 
with less satisfaction, and a few minutes found me seated by the 
fire in the centre of the room, with two tolerably pretty girls, 
who were cooking us a supper of egg soup and came seca^ or 
jerked beef. The prettiest of the daughters of our host, Rosita, 
was a black-eyed coquettish girl of some eighteen summers, whose 
intercourse with travellers had removed any bashfulness which 
she might have originally possessed, and she and I became on 
the instant, capital friends. Her sister had coquetted some six 
years longer with the passing voyager, and was consequently less 
attractive. When supper had been removed from the fire to our 
earthern bowl, which was common to all who wished to enter 
their spoons, we were aroused by the arrival of another traveller 
who claimed hospitality. It proved to be Astorga, our acquaint- 
ance of the mornino-, who had awaited our arrival until nearlv 
night, when despairing of our keeping our appointment, he had 
set out with his feoii Jacinto, a fine-looking intelligent Gruacho, 
whose pride in his country was displiyed by his wearing, even iu 
Chili, the Buenos xlyrian Chiripa, a piece of red flannel singularly 
secured about the loins and thighs^ over a fanciful pair of loose 
white drawers. 

Frederico's already coined lie was immediately put into service, 
but he took care not to refer to me, doubtless judging by my 
countenance, that my support was at least questionable. Indeed, 
feeling somewhat reassured by the presence of Astorga, from 
whom I determined not to separate, I felt much inclined to con- 
tradict his impudent 4ind useless falsehood. 

Our supper, which would have baffled the digestive power of 



164 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



any one, save a traveller, a seafaring man, or an ostrich, was 
speedily dispatched, after which the three of us laid ourselves 
down in the open air, in front of the cottage, and speedily fell into 
a sound sleep, without being obliged to refer to the magnetic in- 
fluence of the stars, which shone brightly overhead. 



CHAPTER 111. 



THE CORDILLERA 



March 2.— Tlos3 at daylight, and without waiting for break- 
fast, set out upon our journoy. The ascent proper had now com- 
menced, the road following the side of the mountain, whose sum- 
mits were lost in the distance overhead. As from time to time 
we caught a glimpse of the peaks of the principal range, towards 
which we pursued our devious route, its snow-capped summit re- 
minded us that before night we must change the mild and genial 
temperature which we then enjoyed for the stern climate of a 
northern winter. Below the narrow shelf-like road which vfe 
followed, rushed the turbid mountain torrent, carrying with it in 
its course, not only a heavy debris^ but even large rocks which it 
had undermined by its impetuous violence. At one point where 
the hills on either side terminated in solid rock, apparently of 
great hardness, the torrent was compressed to a width which did 
not appear to be greater than fifteen or twenty feet. Through 
this channel, which is termed the Salto del Soldado^ or Soldier's 
Leap, the waters rush with a maddening violence, and tradition 
asserts that a soldier, in attempting to escape fi'om his pursuers, 
successfully leaped this fearful chasm. Once on the other side 
he was safe, as no one dared to follow his example, and I could 
only wonder that, even with the avengers of blood behind him, 
he should have succeeded in his desperate attempt. On the road 



166 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



we mefc several droves of cattle on their way from MenJoza to 
Chili. They are there fattened and killed for market ; the Chi- 
lians, like the Chinese, having learned that, with a dense popula- 
tion, the rearing of cattle is far from economical, and that land 
may be n,ore profitably appropriated in planting cereal grains. 
In the plains to the eastward of the Andes it is different, population 
is sparse, and the land, without an enormous expense be incurred in 
irrigation and cultivation, is utterly useless except for grazing. 

It was painful to see the poor animals whose tender hoofs were 
accustomed only to the soft surface of the plains, limping over the 
stony roads of the mountains, which, during their transit, had 
effectually lamed the greater number of them, while want of pas- 
ture on the mountains had reduced them to the condition of 
walking skeletons. 

About 10 A. M., we arrived at the Guar did Vieja^ or old guard, 
a ruined hut, occupied only during the summer on account of the 
severity of the climate. We here breakfasted on some beef 
cooked on a spit, which was quite tempting after our morning's 
ride, though I much doubt whether its general appearance before 
cooking, and the manner of cooking, would not have rather pro- 
duced disgust, had we met it when our appetites were pampered 
to idleness and the accompaniments of civilization. While break- 
fast was preparing I availed myself of the opportunity to wash 
myself in the torrent, notwithstanding the decided protests of 
my companions, who assured me most earnestly that it was unsafe 
and pernicious to wash while on a journey. I observed that they 
never allowed themselves to incur such risk, and never allowed 
water to touch their faces or hands until we had arrived at Men- 
doza. The principle upon which ablutions are opposed I did not 
ascertain, but have observed that it is very general in South 
America. 

Leaving the Giiardia Vieja^ which has been heretofore men- 
tioned as the site of the first battle between the forces of San 
Martin and the Royalists, we proceeded up the mountain, which 
became more precipitous as we advanced. About mid-day we 



THE CORDILLERA. 167 



came to a large rivulet called the Ojo de x^gita^ one of the most 
clear and sparkling streams I have ever seen, and which, as it 
rushed over its bottom of smooth stones glittered like a stream of 
brilliants. Its origia was a snow bank about a mile distant up a 
a ravine on our left, and apparently about six hundred feet above 
the level which we had then attained. This stream differed from 
that of the principal torrent, which was muddy and turbid, and 
as the day was yet warm wo halted, and had a most refreshing 
drink of its icv-cold waters. We were now near the limit of 
perpetual snow, and the Gasucha on the banks of the Ojo de Agua, 
marked the prevision of the Spanish Governor, O'Higgins, who 
had there houses of refuge built and repaired for the safety of 
travellers. On the Chilian side there are massive and arched 
edifices of stone or brick, containing a single room, with the en- 
trance generally elevated some feet above the surface, in order 
that it may not be closed by the drifting snow. Under O'Hig- 
gins, these establishments, so desirable for the traveller who may 
have to pass the mountains, either late in autumn, or early in 
spring, were well adapted to resist the extreme cold, and each 
one contained a supply of charcoal and food, upon which anyone 
who might be so unfortunate as to be shut up by the snow might 
subsist. The keys of these stores were given to the couriers, and 
a certain tax was levied upon the interior commerce for their 
support. Since the revolution they appear to have been neg- 
lected ; there are now no deposits of coal, or provisions, and not 
a single door or particle of wood work remains on any Gasucha 
on either side of the mountain ; all having been burned to supply 
a temporary warmth to some unfortunate travellers who have 
been compelled to seek their shelter. We can imagine how ex- 
treme must have been their distress when they destroyed their 
only barrier against the piercing cold which invaded them. 

None of these houses have chimneys, which would certainly be 
an improvement ; but even as they exist — cold, damp and cheer- 
less, without a door to obstruct the snow or the piercing wind — 
they are of great utility to travellers, and have been the means 



168 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES 



of preserving many liyes. The courier witli whom I crossed the 
plains to Buenos Ayres, had upon one occasion been shut up in 
a Casucha by a snow storm for some eighteen days, and was final- 
ly obliged to sally out and pursue his journey by the immediate 
danger of starvation ; and his description of his horrible captivity, 
and still more horrible journey through the snow, over mountain 
torrents, concealed slippery and dangerous paths, though related 
simply, and without figures of speech, was thrillingly interesting. 
Though neither timid, nor by any' means devotional, he never al- 
luded to this passage in an adventurous life without a shudder, 
nor without raising his hat and crossing himself. The induce- 
ments which had been held out to him to make the journey had 
been gieat for a poor man. Some merchants finding it a matter 
of the last importance to communicate with Buenos Ayres, had 
oficred him twenty ounces of gold to take a letter to Mendoza, 
very late in the autumn, and he had undertaken it ; but no bribe, 
he assured me, would ever induce him to renew the attempt, after 
the terrible experience he had already gained. 

Leaving the Ojo de Agua, we continued to ascend by a steep 
and rugged road, passing another Casucha about one league — the 
ordinary distance — from the first. The road thus far had been a 
steep ascent, but before us was a hill surmounted by the third 
Casucha, which had been climbed by what appeared an innume- 
rable succession of caracols, or short zig-zags. At the foot of 
this hill, and at the head of a ravine, issued an immense spring, 
which in a moment I suspected must be the outlet of the famous 
" Lago Encantada," or enchanted lake, which has not only 
proved a mystery to the natives of the country, but appears also 
to have excited the astonishment of scientific travellers who heard 
in Chili of its existence.^ Nor was I disappointed, as, after at- 
taining the summit of the hill and passing the Casucha v/o had a 
fine view of a beautiful mountain lake, distant about a mile from 
the road. As it would have been extremely uncomfortable, if not 
unsafe to have passed the night on the summit of the mountain, 
=* U. S. Exploring Expedition, Vol I. 



THE CORDILLERA. I^^ 



I Tras oblio;ed to forego a visit to this interesting lake, and content 
myself with a passing view. Of its eztent it was impossible to 
judge accurately, but I should suppose it to be about three miles 
in length, and one in breadth. In the fact of its existence in 
that locality, and its always retaining the same level, I saw no 
mystery. Its bed is the head of a great valley, whose outlet has 
been closed at some remote geological period, and its supply is 
derived from the snow banks, by which it is bounded on three sides^ 
while the subterranean channel which issues below is sufficiently 
large to drain all the superfluous water thus produced. It is not^ 
as some suppose, the crater of an extinct yolcano ; and the dis- 
tance of the outlet, which is more than a mile from the margin 
of the lake, has prevented those who have observed it, from 
seeking there the key to the apparent phenomena of the lake 
retaining at all times the same, or nearly the same level ; and the 
superstitious Arrieros, whose minds are doubtless tempered by 
the awful sublimity of this elevated and uninhabitable region^ 
have sought an explanation in the power of enchantment. 

Leaving the lake on our left we followed the bed of a ravine, 
still ascending, though more gradually, and the eold became so 
intense that Astorgas' peon declared it must be snowing on the 
summit, which surmise afterward proved to be correct. As we 
had been ascending steadily during the whole day, I was some- 
what surprised when one of my companions proposed that we 
should each take a pull of the Chifres containing the brandy, and 
another pull at our saddle girths before commencing to climb the 
mountain. And sure enough the ascent now commenced in ear- 
nest, as, leaving the valley, our road led us by a series of short 
zig-zags up a mountain slope, which certainly could have varied 
little from 45°. The height and regularity of the hill gives it an 
imposing appearance, and from the distance the zig-zag road ap- 
pears like a line on its face, upon which, by no possibility^ a mule 
could obtain a footing, yet the path is sufficiently wide, and by 
no means so dangerous as the Laderas which we found on the 
other side of the mountain. 



170 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



Again and again, as we ascended, the tired and panting mules 
would stop, and, after resting two or three minutes, renew their 
efforts in climbing the mountain. It is in such cases as this that 
the traveller sees so much to admire in the patient and sagacious, 
though self-willed animal, upon whose efforts and steadiness de- 
pends his life and property. In such cases there is no whipping 
or spurring, no abusive or reproachful language, and the mule 
hears only the unusual language of encouragement and approba- 
tion. A narrow shelf with a more gradual ascent gave some 
relief to our animals before the final series of zig-zags which 
conducted us to the summit ; but the sun was now low, the wind 
high, and directly from the snow bank, and the cold became in- 
tense. The sufferings of the poor mules it was now painful to 
witness, as, partly owing to the rarity of the atmosphere, and 
partly to the fatigue produced by the steepness of the road, their 
breathing was more accelerated and laborious, and their pauses to 
rest more frequent. Still, without a touch of the spur or a word, 
they would start of their own accord after recovering their breath, 
apparently conscious that they had a definite task which must be 
performed. On our right was the elevated ridges of the princi- 
pal range which we were now ascending, while on our left was a 
valley which, as we looked down into its dark recesses, appeared 
unfathomable. On the other side of this ravine the mountain 
peaks rose to the height of some fifteen or eighteen thousand feet, 
covered, even at a less elevation than we had already attained, by 
snow and masses of ice which, clinging to the mountain side, re- 
fracted a tint of light green in the rays of the declining sun. 

Two facts observable in the appearance of these mountains 
may require a note of explanation ; that perpetual snow is found 
on the mountains across the valley at a less elevation than on the 
principal chain where the road crosses, and the existence of the 
glaciers. To the latter my attention had been directed, while at 
Santiago, by a gentleman of intelligence, who had seen them in 
his transit, and, who being aware of the opinion that none were 
found in the Andes, wished me to corroborate his observations. 



THE CORDILLERA. 171 



The explanation of the former phenomenon, I consider by no 
means obscure, as the snow when it descends to the lowest level, 
invariably surrounds the mountains, whose peaks have a much 
greater elevation than the mountain pass which the road tra- 
verses. The summit of the latter is in the latitude below the 
limit of perpetual snow, which melted by the summer's sun, does 
not again accum.ulate until winter, while the lofty peaks of the 
former being within that limit, the melting influence of the sun 
has the effect of softening the snow and glaciers, which by their 
gravity, aided by the expansive force of the fluid, are pushed to- 
ward the valley, where they accumulate more rapidly than they 
are melted. The presence of the glaciers admits also an easy 
explanation on the general principle of their formation in all 
parts of the world where they are found. They owe their origin 
to the snow melting during the day and freezing at night, when 
it is invariably cool, and are permanently hardened in large 
masses during winter. Their limited extent it is less easy to 
explain, as they are found at but one point, and there only cover- 
ing a small space, which, I presume, is owing to local conforma- 
tion favourable to the melting of the snows, and collecting it in 
quantities sufficiently large that it may endure the noon day sun 
of summer."^ 

Wending our way tediously, and by short zig-zags up the 
mountain, we met the full force of the westerly wind, a return 
current of the south-east trades, which constantly blew near the 
level of the sea, while patches of snow in sheltered locations in- 
formed us that a few hours earlier we should have had even a 
more tempestuous transit. It must not, however, be under- 
stood that the temperature of this pass is always so low, or the 
wind so violent. One of my companions who had crossed at 
mid -day a few weeks before, assured me that he was inconve- 
nienced by the heat, even on the summit. The strong westerly 

* I am inchnedto beheve that these glaciers have not always existed, as 
no mention of them is made by that eminent naturalist Darwin, who crossed 
at this pass. 



172 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



wind will seldom be experienced in the morning, which is conse- 
quently the best time to cross. This fact is another evidence 
that these elevated winds are return currents to the trades, which 
along the coast blow strongest in the afternoon. The puna^ or 
oppression of the chest, and difficulty of breathing noticed by 
travellers I did not experience, although, judging from their 
violent panting, the mules did, as the fatigue of the ascent alone 
would not account for their obvious distress. The sun was but a 
few degrees above the glacier-clothed peaks already described, 
when a scene opened to my view from the summit, which repaid 
me amply for all my discomforts in the ascent, and during the 
remainder of my journey. Had I been " blazCj''^ I should de- 
cidedly have received a new impression. I have heard and read 
much of natural scenery, whose grandeur and sublimity had pro- 
duced in observers a feeling of awe, and have in many cases 
viewed it afterwards without surprise, almost with indifference. 
The storm at sea in all imaginable phases I have witnessed with- 
out a profound impression, neither have I been much impressed 
by the thunder storm in the mountains, or by cataracts, or by 
the many natural objects on which so many highly-wrought pages 
have been lavished. Two views only, of which I had heard and 
read much, did not fail to realize my expectations; the first 
was the Andes as seen from Valparaiso in winter, and the next, 
the view from the summit of the mountain pass of Uspallata, 
To produce awe, there must be added a certain feeling of per- 
sonal insecurity to the natural grandeur of the object viewed. The 
dangers of the descent, which are greater than those of the ascent, 
combined with the uneasy impression produced by the great 
height which I had attained, compared with the narrow ridge on 
which I stood, just sufficiently tempered my admiration with an 
ill-defined dread to give to the view a character of awful subli- 
mity. Behind us was the deep dark valley which we had left, 
and beyond it the snow-capped mountain masses, covered in part 
by glaciers, which reflecting a greenish tint, contrasted beautifully 
with the pure white of the surrounding snow, while, on the right, 



THE CORDILLERA, 173 



and apparently €|uite close, tho'agli in reality many miles distant^ 
rose the enormous wMte comma of Tupungat^, whose eyerlasting^ 
robe of white dazzled the eye as it piereed the heavens to a 
height nearly double the thirteen thousand feet to vrhich we had 
ascended. In front, the view was limited by a range of moun- 
tains, apparently not more than a mile distant, while the inter- 
vening valley appeared as deep as it w^s wide. The slope bj 
which we had to descend to it was about forty -five degrees, and 
enclosed by lofty mountains, whose dazzling white and sun-tipped 
summits contrasted with its dee^ shadow, was rendered still darker 
by the fact that owing to the rarefaction of the air, the rays of the 
declining sun were not refracted iato its silent depths. The 
mind was awed and confused by the power of the contrasts, an J 
glancing from the brilliant gilding of the peaks into the gloomy 
chasm before us, I recalled almost with a shudder the vivid im- 
pressions which my youthful mind had received from Bunyan';^ 
description of the " Yalley and Shadow of Death. "^ 

We had, however, but little time to meditate on the grandeur 
of the scene before us, and were warned by the setting sun of the 
necessity of descending the mountain, and seeking shelter for the 
night. By the violent and piercing wind, to which we were 
rendered intensely susceptible by our sudden transition from the 
genial plains of Chili, we were thoroughly chilled, and were all, even 
the ])eo7iSj who are proverbially averse to pedestrianism, glad ta 
dismount and walk to the foot of the ridge, to which the road 
tended in numberless sig-zags. Had not the measure been first 
proposed by my companions, I should undoubtedly have adopted 
it myself, being so thoroughly numbed that I could scarce keep 
my seat on the saddle, while the steepness of the slope and depth 
of the valley was fearful to look upon, even from so triHing an 

* Sir Francis Head remarked when crossing at this point, "What 
can be more beautiful?" to which his companion, a Cornish miner, after & 
pause, smilingly replied r " Them things, Sir, that do v^^ear caps and aprons.^^ 
The world will not be puzzled to decide between the Earonet and the Cox- 
nish man. 



174 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



elevation as the back of a mule. We were now in Argentine 
territory, as the narrow ridge forms the houndary between the 
two republics. Before reaching the valley it had been for some 
time dark, and our descent was by no means pleasant, though the 
exercise restored the warmth to our frozen limbs. Booted and 
spurred, we were sometimes in danger of missing our footing on 
the narrow path and rolling down the slope, sometimes drag- 
ging the mule with our whole strength, and again in danger of 
being trampled by him. About half-past eight we reached the 
valley, when we all remounted and proceeded down the ravine in 
search of a resting place, of which we were now much in need. 
After about an hour's ride, my companions, after an earnest 
consultation with Astorgas' peon, selected a site for our 
camp. Upon dismounting, I certainly could not discover any 
desirable features about the locality to recommend it above 
the Casucha, which I knew must be somewhere in the vicinity, 
as we had no shelter except the imperfect lee aiForded by an im- 
mense porphyritic rock, weighing, I should suppose, some hundred 
tons. Upon inquiry, however, I found that its eligibility arose 
from the fact that our friend Astorga upon the occasion of a for- 
mer journey, had left concealed under this rock two sticks of 
firewood which he had brought from below, there not being a 
trace of vegetation of any kind to be found so near the summit. 
All was a bleak, cheerless mass of volcanic rocks, relieved only 
to the sight by tlie snowy mountains above us, and to the imagina- 
tion by the presence of the bubbling streams, the crystal clear- 
ness and icy coolness of which would have been more acceptable 
though less natural in the hot plains to which our course was 
directed. Often aftervv^ard, while suifering on board the vessel in 
which I sailed from Buenos Ayres with a violent attack of bil- 
ious fever, did I revisit these clear mountain streams. Sleeping 
or waking my mind wandered to every spring, stream, and limpid 
lake which I had ever visited, and many which existed only in 
my fever-heated imagination, but it invariably returned to the 
crystal rivulets fed by the snows of the Cordillera. On that 



THE CORDILLERA. 175 



niglit, however, as we sat sliivering around our meagre fire, iu 
vain attempting to shelter ourselves from the searching breeze, I 
am free to confess that though a passionate admirer of good 
water, I would willingly have bartered an unlimited quantity of 
the best which nature could supply for a single glass of not very 
good brandy. Our fire, though on the smallest imaginable scale, 
was sufficiently large to heat some water, with which we made our 
Matte^ which accompanied our frugal repast of bread and cheese. 
As my supply of cigars was exhausted, the fire low, and being 
already past ten o'clock, we had no motive for keeping late hours, 
and accordingly produced our private stock of blankets, serapes^ 
cloaks, and ponchos to form a bed for the three of us. Upon 
an examination it was discovered that all the articles in question 
belonged to Astorga or myself, and that Frederico's entire stock 
consisted of an unlined poncho, which would afford no protection 
whatever, and under which it would have been impossible to have 
slept a moment on so cold a night. My eyes had been gradually 
opening since our arrival at St. P'elipe, where I began to see how 
grossly I had been imposed upon by this plausible individual, and 
how much he had calculated upon the results of my credulity for 
Lis own comforts and necessaries during the journey. I had paid 
him three pieces for two mules when one only was necessary ; 
had paid all the expenses of the journey, when I ought to have 
paid but one half; had lent him money which I already looked 
upon as lost ; not only for the payment of his passport, but the 
duties upon some animals which he had sold in Santiago ; bought 
a large supply of horsefeed, of which my poor mules never got a 
taste, though the old black horse having broken down, the spare 
one was always used by Frederico or his peon. The feed was 
all absorbed by his led horse, which did nothing but kick the 
mules who ventured within range of his heels, in one case nearly 
breaking my leg. His sleekness and viciousness increased, while 
the increasing temerity of my mules reproached me daily, and 
urged upon me the necessity of coming to an understanding upon 
the subject. But all these palpable evidences of utter want of 



176 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES, 



principle, astonished me less than the superlative impudence of 
the said Don Frederico in placing himself in the middle of a 
bed to which he had contributed nothing. He had not even the 
claim of a stranger, who might have been enjoying the hospitality 
of my camp. The reader may perhaps think the choice of posi- 
tion in such a bed a matter of little moment ; but I assure him 
it was no such thing, as the lee side having been appropriated by 
Astorga, whose perfect right to a choice I did not for a moment 
think of questioning, as he had by far more coverings than my- 
self, and Mr. Frederico having deposited himself in the middle, 
left me the outside berth to windward, where, as the clothes were 
too narrow to tuck under, I lay shivering all night. 

I took off my spurs by way of preparation for repose, and tried 
to nestle myself under the covering, but every flaw of wind lifted 
it on my side and sent a chill through my limbs which instantly 
awakened me ; then I turned over and thawed that side, when I 
would be again awakened and compelled to repeat the operation, 
and so on during the night — mutatis mutandis. 

While my com/panero lay snoring cosily in the middle of the bed 
I was vowing a terrible revenge, which I inflicted afterwards by 
exposing his meanness, and defeating, at the very moment that he 
thought everything secure, his attempt at a further imposition ; 
accident also assisted me in a manner which I little expected, as 
his led horse, having got fat and frisky on my provender, threw 
him off his back the first time he attempted to mount him in 
Mendoza, thus exposing him to a torrent of ridicule, besides 
hurting him severely, though not seriously. His mortification at 
finding that he dare not mount his pet horse, avenged me suffi- 
ciently for the losses I had sustained, and my cold night in the 
Cordillera. To be a Mendosino, and not able to mount any horse 
is not to be a gentleman. I doubt even whether a man's honesty 
would not be suspected in Mendoza if it were known he could 
not ride. 

March 3. — Rose at day-light, and after partaking of a cup 
of matte^ heated by the scanty remains of two sticks of wood, v/e 



THE CORDILLERA. Ill 



saddled up and proceeded down the valley. Although our sup- 
per had been sufficiently scanty, that of our mules must have 
been much more so, as, by the light of day, I could not discover the 
slio-htest sio^ns of veg-etation, and of the extreme cold of the nio-ht, 
of which I had been tolerably convinced by my previous sensations, 
we had tangible corroborative evidence, in that the entire margin 
of the mountain torrent was firmJy frozen. A clear case of tern- 
perature as low as 33^^ Fahrenheit was thus made out, and there 
is no estimating how much colder it would have been if we had 
been provided with a thermometer to have measured its intensit}^ 
This, too, was in March, only the first month of autumn, corres- 
ponding to September in our own country, and from the severity 
of the weather we may form an approximate estimate of what it 
must be in winter, these passes being too far inland to have their 
temperature affected by the warmer ocean currents, which exer- 
cise so powerful an influence in moderating the climate off Cape 
Horn, the southern extremity of this continent. We now pursued 
our course down the valley, which is generally about a mile in 
width, and bounded on either side by enormous masses of por- 
phyritic rocks. Some lay in loose masses at the foot of the 
mountains, while others rose like a wall in a single rock, without 
sign of fracture, to a height where the eye could no longer trace 
its character. Its colours were various, though red and lilac ap- 
peared to predominate. The descent was generally gradual, 
though sometimes so abrupt as to make me feel the necessity of 
a crupper, which, strange to say, is not used in this country, 
where it is so much needed. My saddle being English, and 
having been intended for a horse, was entirely too large for my 
mule, and, unlike the recado or saddle of the country, the forma- 
tion of the tree would not admit of its lacing tight to the back 
and sides of the animal. I had previously felt the inconvenience 
arising from these defects, and had been proportiouably careful, 
but now, the steepest descents having been passed, I relaxed my 
vigilance, and while descending a very steep hill, more employed 
in staring at the mountains by which we were surrounded than 



178 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



in looking out for my own immediate interest, and trusting much 
to the docility and sagacity of the mule,' his indignation was 
aroused by the slipping of the saddle, which he immediately re- 
sented by giving two violent kicks into the air with his hind legs. 
As his head, even before this demonstration, had been so nearly 
under me that, in using my spurs, I had to be careful of his eyes, 
this violent elevation behind was entirely too much for my equili- 
brium, and, after performing an evolution in the air, I alighted 
at the distance of some twenty feet below, on the flat of my back, 
with my head not very gently pillowed on a hard though fortu- 
nately flat stone. Not satisfied with the injury already done, this 
vicious beast of ^' Suoni la tromha'^^ memory followed me, endea- 
vouring to plant his fore feet on my chest. 'Though somewhat 
stunned, I had sufficient presence of mind to escape the compli- 
ment by rolling down the hill, when he, not caring to follow, 
dashed off in another direction until he became entangled by the 
saddle, which had completely turned, and was brought back by 
the jpeons. I felt much like enforcing the Mosaic Law against the 
beast, who, with '^ malice prepense" had endeavoured to take my 
life, but being unprovided with weapons, he escaped the effects 
of my first impulses, after which, of course, he was safe. I ac- 
cordingly put the saddle in its place, and, girting it vrith all my 
force, mounted and proceeded on my way with very sore bones 
and an aching head, quite as well satisfied as ever with the saga- 
city, but infinitely less credulous in regard to the docility of the 
animal upon which 1 was mounted. About 10 a. m. we stopped 
and lunched at the camp of an old muleteer, who was the happy 
possessor of some tough beef, and a little wood wherewith to 
cook the same, and then proceeded on our route to where the 
mountain torrent is traversed by the Puente del Inca, one of the 
lions of the Uspallata pass. It is a natural bridge formed of 
conglomerate, evidently cemented, at least to a certain extent, 
by the salts which are abundant in the neighbourhood, and was 
probably a mountain mass which formerly dammed the ravine, 
and had been perforated by the action of the torrent. As there 



THE CORDILLERA. 179 



is every evidence that it is a part and parcel of the lofty banks 
of the ravine which extendi for miles in either direction, the 
mind is carried back to a period when no stream flowed through 
this enormous chasm, to a period when the climate was so mild 
that no snow fell in these mountains, or when it was so severe 
that it never melted. I see no other means of explaining the 
phenomena, as the water could never have had another outlet 
from the extensive valley above, and it appears incredible that 
the torrent should have scooped out this great chasm for miles, 
commencing at the surface, and left only this slight connection 
between the banks, while its formation and connection precludes 
the idea of its having assumed this position at a later period. Its 
length is about forty and its breadth about thirty yards. On the 
BSiVvow plateau^ and within a few yards of the bridge, there is a 
spring of hot water, and on a shelf on the bank, immediately 
imder it, are two others, varying several degrees in temperature, 
though they are separated by but a few inches of rock. 
Having no thermometer I was unable to measure the temperature, 
but estimated their range at between eighty-five and one hundred 
Fahrenheit, and are probably affected like the hot springs of Cau- 
quenes, in Chili, by the season of the year, and the melting of the 
snow in the mountains. One of these springs rushes into its 
basin with such force that it is entirely covered with foam, and 
on the banks, and on the bridge overhead, hung stalactites pro- 
duced by the vapours arising from it.'" 

Leaving the Puente del Inca, we pursued our way down the 
valley, following the left bank of the torrent, and at about 1 p. m. 
arrived at Punta de Vaca, where we unloaded our animals, and, 
turning them out to graze, if, by great good fortune, they could 
discover the wherewithal to graze upon, which I am sure I could 
not, we produced our scanty provisions, and proceeded to dine 

=* It is not impossible that the cement arising from these exhalations may 
have prevented the removal of the portion of the plateau forming this 
bridge, when the chasm was scooped out elsewhere by the action of the 
torrent. 



mo CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PKOVlNCEa 



^nd take a sufM, AwakeniBg about 4 p. m., my attention was 
attracted by a series of mg-^ags on a acarped mountain, wbiok 
rose to tke heiglat of some fifteen hundred feet on tke opposite 
:side of the valley. They looked like lines traced upon the 
steep earthy slope ; yet, sach was their regularity that I could 
■not but believe that they were the paths of some animals, although 
I could hardly realize the boldness which could induce them to 
risk themselves on such a fearful elevation. The mystery was 
speedily solved by the appearance ^i sis guanacos, who marched 
m a stately and dignified manner over the crest of the mountain 
in a single file, and with every evidence of -confidence in their 
fi arrow foothold, commenced descending the path. Saddling up, 
we crossed the Rio de las Vaeas, a deep and rapid torrent, filled 
in many cases with moveable stones of considerable size. The 
ford is a bad one, especially in the afternoon when the heat of 
the sun has melted the snows on the mountains, and I felt men- 
tally relieved when my mule had lumbered through the stream, 
perfectly content with the compromise of a pair of wet legs. On 
the level space, near the eastern margin of this river, large piles 
of stones irregularly placed mark the position of one of the can- 
tonments of the army of San Martin, during his extraordinary 
campaign for the liberation of Chili. Pursuing our route, we 
arrived a little after dark at a singular cave or grotto on the right 
of the road, which was occupied by some eight or ten muleteers, 
'on their way to Valparaiso for merchandise. It was merely a 
semicircular excavation about fifteen feet in depth, with a rocky 
floor and oeiiing, and probably owed its origin to an extraordinary 
freshet. Around its entrance were placed the cargo, pack saddles, 
and other furniture of the mules, in distinct heaps, and a semi- 
<3ircular form, corresponding to that of the interior of the grotto, 
while in the neiohbourhood the mules, under the watchful care of the 
madrina^ or bell-mare, sought a scanty supper among the barren 
rocks. The dark and smoky walls of the cavern, lighted up by a 
fire in the centre, around which were grouped the peons in their 
fantastic costumes, and in the picturesque attitudes assumed by 



THE CORDILLERA. 181 



men thoroughly at their ease, and utterly unaccustomed to the 
use of straight-back chairs, recalled forcibly to my mind the de- 
scription of a bandit encampment, as vividly portrayed in many 
of the popular novels of the early part of the present century. 
These, however, were no robbers, but gente de hien^ honest people 
in pursuit of their ordinary avocations ; and upon our entrance 
they greeted us hospitably, making way for us at the fire, and 
assigning to me, as a stranger, the seat of honour, occupied on our 
arrival by the owner of the troupe. We were kindly invited to 
encamp with them, and join in the supper which was preparing, 
and, upon declining, cigars were produced, which were by no 
means unacceptable, as mine had given out the day before. On 
learning this fact, our friend the muleteer hoped that '' the patron" 
would do him the favour to accept a bundle, assuring me that he 
had an abundance for his journey across the mountains, and that, 
moreover, when they gave out he could resort to cigaritos to which 
the cabeUeros from foreign parts were not accustomed. Courtesy 
would have compelled my acceptance, even had selfishness been 
allowed to have no voice in the matter ; and as I thanked him for 
his little present my heart re-opened toward mankind, and I thought 
that, after all, though one might be occasionally cheated and 
forced to sleep on the windy side of a bed on a cold night, there 
was still much disinterested kindness in out-of-the-way comers, where 
w« had little right to expect it. We now heard the cheerful cries 
of our peons encouraging the mules as they drove them up the 
hill, where the road passed nearly over our heads, so we took a 
kindly leave of the hospitable strangers, and continued our route 
to the Penon Rajada^ or riven stone which had already been se- 
lected as a resting place for the night. This rock had been broken 
off from some mountain mass overhead, and had rolled into its 
present position by the road side, where its summit overhung its base 
so far that it afi'orded a very good shelter for three persons. It 
certainly looked far from secure, and the idea of its toppling over 
and crushing the sleeping traveller cannot but occur to any one 
who takes refuge under it ; yet, the fact that it had occupied its 



182 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



present position since the discovery of the country, more than 
three centuries ago, is sufficient evidence of stability to induce 
one to risk one more night in preference to braving the dews and 
cold mountain breeze. Owing to the existence of a large stone 
near the base of our enormous shelter, which must have weighed 
several hundred tons, it was rather close quarters for three, and 
as Don Frederico again selected the middle, and Astor^ the in- 
side, I was obliged to accommodate my person to its rough surface 
as well as I could. The mildness of this night, compared with 
the last, had evidently affected the spirits of my companions, 
who, until a very late hour, sang national songs, among which 
one called " Padre Francisco" was exceedingly humorous, though 
by no means complimentary to the reverend clergy. I had few 
opportunities of observing during this journey the deportment 
of the priesthood, who, though treated respectfully by the people, 
appear to inspire them with very little reverence. Those I met 
were generally jolly, rotund, good-natured fellows, with no small 
capacity for strong drink, and very great liberality of feeling in 
regard to heretics. 

March 4. — Having drank our 7/iati;e we set out, and after 
travelling about a league, fell in with a large troop of mules in 
a bivouac, and among the travellers were several women, who 
were in the act of rising from their mattrasses which were spread 
upon the ground, and making their toilette preparatory to setting 
out. There were also some children too young to be trusted on 
horseback, and who were transported in panniers slung upon the 
back of a careful mule. This is the ordinary means of locomo- 
tion ; and provided the traveller have not a pair, provisions, or 
in default of them, a stone is put in the opposite pannier to 
balance the juvenile equestrian. Leaving these travellers, who 
shared with us their coffee, and bearing a present of pound-cake 
with which the benevolent ladies — Heaven bless them — ^had sup- 
plied us, we proceeded on the first ladera — one of the three for- 
midable passes of the Andes. Of these three dangerous passes 
1 had heard much, and am scarce prepared to say whether they 



THE CORDILLERA. 183 



were more or less formidable than I anticipated. The name 
ladera is applied to a narrow path extending some distance along 
the side of the mountain, which is perpendicular on one side, 
and nearly, or quite so, on the other. In its narrowest part, the 
width, I think, was scarce less than three feet, although an occasional 
stone which has fallen from above forces the mule to the extreme 
edge of the path, where the traveller, should he be willing to 
trust his head and look toward the precipice, will see nothing 
but the deep ravine and furious torrent, in some places several 
hundred feet beneath. "VTere this narrow shelf level the danger 
would not be so great, but the inequalities make them fearful to 
those unaccustomed to mountain travelling ; and I can compare 
my own feelings, as my mule smelt his way along the narrow 
descent with his nose almost between his legs, his short neck, 
and the path entirely invisible, only to those of a man sliding 
slowly down a very steep roof in a disagreeable state of uncer- 
tainty as to whether the gutter or trough at the eaves will sus- 
tain his weight upon his arrival. The ladera of las Vacas, the 
third and last pass, is decidedly the worst, and at one point the 
narrow path suddenly bends nearly at right angles to its former 
direction, while the precipice on either side is perpendicular. 
To this point the ascent is very steep on either side, and the 
path over the rock completely perforated by the various passing 
animals, which are obliged to step exactly in each other's foot- 
steps, in default of which they would probably stumble, when 
mule and rider must inevitably be destroyed. In making this 
dangerous turn, the mule must bend himself nearly double, and 
the traveller must 2:uard ao:ainst the danofer of havino: his le^r 
crushed against the rock, which might not only injure him seri- 
ously, but might also destroy the equilibrium of his animal. 
Passing this, the most trying point, I could not but hope while 
descending the steep slope beyond it, that my slippery crupper- 
less saddle might not serve me the trick it did on the day before, 
as the consequences in this case would be more serious. We 
all passed safely, and there was no one who did not feel relieved. 



184 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES, 



it being a danger to which men would never become indifferent. 
Had we met a troupe of mules in this path, the result would have 
been fatal to some, if not all the animals, and perhaps to our- 
selves, as there were many places where it would have been 
impossible to dismount, much less to have turned back. Many 
persons will tell a traveller that it is safer to traverse these 
passes on a mule than on foot. This is an absurdity, as the sure 
footedness of a mule is not greater than that of a man, while its 
sagacity will not compare with his reason. It not unfrequently 
occurs that the earth near the precipice becomes insecure, and 
the mule, as long as he sees the tracks of his fellows, will ven- 
ture upon it, while man, warned by the indications, will avoid it. 
Again, should a mule suddenly take fright and start, as they 
frequently do under other circumstances, it would be fatal to 
both. 

In the account given of the passage of this ladera by Sir 
Francis Head, there is a fine piece of description, which em- 
bodies so many characteristics of the patient, long-suffering mule, 
that I cannot resist the temptation of quoting it entire for the 
benefit of my readers, hoping that they may derive from it the 
same gratification which it has afforded me. To most persons 
an additional charm must attach itself to this description, owing 
to the fact that from it is derived a picture illustrative of moun- 
tain travel in South America, which is found in the school books 
upon geography, from which most of the present generation in 
our country derived the rudiments of that science : — 

'' As soon as the leading mule came to the commencement 
of the pass, he stopped, evidently unwilling to proceed, and, of 
course, all the rest stopped also. 

*' He was the finest mule we had, and on that account had 
twice as much to carry as any of the others ; his load had never 
been relieved, and it consisted of four portmanteaus, two of 
which belonged to me, and contained not only a very heavy bag 
of dollars, but also papers, which were of such consequence that 
I could hardly have continued my journey without them. The 



THE CORDILLERA. 185 



peons now redoubled their cries, and leaning over the sides of 
their mules, and picking up stones, they threw them at the lead- 
ing mule, who now commenced his journey over the path. 
With his nose to the ground, literally smelling his way, he 
walked gently on, often changing the position of his feet if he 
found the ground would not bear, until he came to the bad part 
of the pass, when he again stopped ; and I then certainly began 
to look with great anxiety at my portmanteaus ; but the peons 
again threw stones at him, and he continued his path, and 
reached me in safety ; — several others followed. At last a young 
mule carrying a portmanteau, with two large sacks of provisions, 
and many other things, in passing the bad point struck his load 
against the rock, which knocked his two hind legs over the pre- 
cipice, and the loose stones immediately began to roll away from 
under them ; however, his fore legs were still upon the narrow 
path ; he had no room to put his head there, but he placed his 
nose on the path on his left, and appeared to hold on by his 
mouth. His perilous fate was soon decided by a loose mule who 
came up, and in walking along after him, knocked his comrade's 
nose off the path, destroyed his balance, and head over heels the 
poor creature instantly commenced a fall which was really quite 
terrific. With all his baggage firmly lashed to him, he rolled 
down the steep slope until he came to the part which was per- 
pendicular, and there he seemed to bound off, and turning round 
in the air fell into a deep torrent on his back and upon his bag- 
gage, and instantly disappeared. I thought, of course, that he 
was killed ; but up he rose, looking wild and scared, and imme- 
diately endeavoured to stem the torrent which was foaming about 
him. It was a noble effort, and for a moment he seemed to 
succeed, but the eddj suddenly caught the great load which was 
upon his back, and turned him completely over ; down went his 
head with all the baggage, and as he was carried down the 
stream, all I saw were his hindquarters, and his long, thin, wet 
tail lashing the water. As suddenly, however, up his head 
came again ; but he was now weak, and went down the streara 



186 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



turned round and round by the eddy, until passing the corner 
of the rock I lost sight of him. I saw, however, the peons with 
lassos in their hands, run down the side of the torrent for some 
little distance ; but they soon stopped, and after looking toward 
the poor mule for some seconds, their earnest attitude gradually 
relaxed, and when they walked toward me I concluded that all 
was over. I walked up to the peons, and was just going to 
speak to them when I saw at a 'distance a solitary mule walk- 
ing toward us. 

" We instantly perceived that he was the Phaeton whose fall 
we had just witnessed, and in a few moments he came up to us 
to join his comrades. He was, of course, dripping wet ; his 
eye looked dull, and his whole countenance was dejected; how- 
ever, none of his bones were broken, he was very little cut, and 
the bulletin of his health was altoo-ether incredible. 

'' With that surprising anxiety which the mules all have to 
join the troop, or rather the leading mule which carries the bell, 
he continued his course, and actually walked over the pass with- 
out compulsion, though certainly with great caution." 

The great dangers and difficulties which we had to encounter 
from mountain travel were now passed, and we proceeded 
rapidly down the valley, the slope of which had become more 
gradual. At about noon we stopped on the banks of a clear 
mountain stream, which we had crossed by a rude stone bridge 
with a single arch, and breakfasted upon the cakes so kindly 
provided us by the warm-hearted Mendosinos. Soon after we 
left, for the last time, the muddy and turbid torrent which we 
had so long accompanied, and struck across a shingly plain, pro- 
ducing some low bushes and watered by a single rivulet of clear 
cold water. The torrent which we left, increased as it was by 
numerous alliances, had become a considerable stream, and 
flowed with less violence than nearer its source toward the 
plains, where it is absorbed and lost in the sandy soil. At about 
2 P.M., our eyes were delighted with the sight of the fertile 
valley of Uspallata, which, clothed in green by its various grains 



THE CORDILLERA. 187 



and grasses, and watered by a rivulet of clear cold water, was a 
pleasing relief to the eye after our three days' travel among the 
rocks and snow of the Cordillera. The valley is some sis miles 
in length and two in breadth, and contains only one establish- 
ment of several small houses and some unused furnaces belong- 
ing to the copper mines, which were formerly wrought in this 
neighbourhood. This is the Custom House station of Mendoza, 
and we were received very affably by the Captain of the Guard 
and his buxom wife, who were acquaintances of my comjpanero 
Frederico. A room was assigned to us in one of the unoccupied 
huts, and a dinner served to us with the family. In the evening, 
for want of other occupation, I numbered the dogs in the court- 
yard, where twenty stood in a single group, as gaunt and ferocious 
as so many half-starved wolves. I did not need the caution 
which our hostess gave me not to venture out of the house at 
night unless accompanied by a peon, as I felt certain of being 
torn to pieces for food if from no other motive. Like the negro 
slave in our country, and the poor generally all the world over, 
the giiacJho of the plains delights in being surrounded by formi- 
dable dogs, and is seldom found, except far from his home , 
unaccompanied by some half a dozen. Bertoldo, the peon, had 
laudably availed himself of an idle afternoon to celebrate his 
return to a civilized region by becoming gloriously drunk, and ia 
that condition afforded me some amusement at the same time 
that he annoyed me. Upon one subject he declared his mind 
was made up — that he would never leave me until my arrival in 
Buenos Ayres, and would accompany me as my peon with or 
without my permission, or a compensation for his services. Eum 
is a sad leveller, an unmitigated Red Republican, and I could 
never have realized the great similarity that really exists between 
a drunken English or American sailor and a drunken guacho. 
Our beds were made on the floor, and Astorga and myself were 
about to retire when we were honoured by a visit from our land- 
lady and landlord, the Captain of ih^ Guard, who came with the 
intention of having a cosy game of cards with Don Frederico. 



ISS CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES 



As tliej did not appear to stand on ceremony with us, I deter- 
mined to shew my appreciation of the compliment by not con- 
sidering them as strangers, and quietly turned in and soon 
smoked myself to sleep, not, however, before I saw the cscudQ 
which Don Frederico had obtained from me this afternoon to 
meet necessary expences, transferred in the progress of the game 
to the captain and his worthy spouse. 

March 5. — Started about 6 a.m., and pursued our way 
down the Uspallata valley, the level road winding among numer- 
ous hills of DO great elevation. Stopping at a very s:nr.H spriiig 
to refresh ourselves, and await the arrival of our baggage. Don 
Frederico gave me a farther insight into his character, by produc- 
ing the sealed letter of the Captain of the Guard, in which cur 
arrival, and the character of our baggage, was announced to his 
superior in Mendoza, and attempted io read it by opening it as far 
as he could without breaking the seal. He would, I believe, have 
even proceeded to that extremity, had I not entered my protest 
against such a breach of trust being committed in my presence. 
Very much io my surprise Astorga, with whom my short inter- 
course had favourably impressed me, made no objectiens ; and 
when I conversed with him afterward, found that his vieTrs up en 
this subject did not coincide with my own. and that the fact of 
the letter having an immediate relation to its bearer, and being 
official, he seemed to believe gave him a right to obtain a know- 
ledge of its contents. This may be the code of morality in this 
country, and may be generally conceded, in which case, of 
course, it would be unfair to judge individuals by cur cwu Srvero 
standard. 

About noon we arrived at the Paramillo, an elevated table- 
land, from whence we bad a distant view of the Pampas, which, 
seen throusrh the haze, strikingly resembled the ocean. A strons: 
breeze appears to blow at this point at ail seasons of the year, 
at least so I was informed by my companions, and find their 
statements corroborated by former travellers. Gold mines are 
wrought with advantage at several points on this plateau. 



THE CORDILLERA. 1S9 



• ' When, upon our arrival at Uspallata, I congratulated myself 
upon having overcome the descent and attained the level of the 
Pampas, I was very much mistaken, as leaving the Paramillo 
we descended by a steep declivity into a narrower ravine (Cajon 
of Villa Vicencio), and continued to descend without intermission 
for the next ten miles, until our arrival at Villa Vicencio. This 
ravine was very picturesque, and is undoubtedly the finest pass 
in the whole route, though wanting the massy grandeur of the 
mountain scenery above Uspallata. After travelling about forty- 
five miles, we arrived at Villa Vicencio about six o'clock in the 
evening, and made our arrangements to pass the night. Its 
ostentatious name and place on the map would have induced me 
to expect at least a village, had not *' Darwin's Joiu'nal of a Xatu- 
ralist" informed me beforehand that it consisted of a single hut. 
It had a local celebrity for the Hot Springs in its neighbourhood, 
to which invalids in former times resorted for the benefit of the 
waters. They are now unfrequented, either because they have 
lost their reputation, or because of their inaccessibility and dis- 
tance from Mendoza. Thev are some distance from the house — 
about a league, I believe, and I did not see them. Xo one 
alluded to them in my presence, and I had ridden forty-five miles 
since morning, and the last ten down hill, and I was tired ; so 
lying down in front of the house on my sarape^ smoking a pipe 
in lieu of a cigar, and attempting at intervals, though not very 
successfullv, to make friends with a domesticated o-uanaco which 
belonged to the establishment, I forgot entirely that my previous 
reading had ever made me aware of their existence. It was 
only upon my arrival in Mendoza that I was reminded of them 
by some inquiries which were addressed to me on the subject. 
It thus frequently happens that the descriptions of travellers 
vary so much as to induce a notorious incredulity among 
readers ; but because something is immentioned by a more re- 
cent traveller which had been noticed by a former one. is no 
evidence of its non-existence. Darwin gives a long description 

of these Springs, which I had read more than once, and I did 
0^ 



190 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



not see tliem, while I observed tlie Hot Springs at the Puente 
del Inca, which, I think, he passed entirely unnoticed, even when 
speaking of the bridge. The good wife gave us our casuela by 
candle-light, and we were not tardy in retiring, each one, even 
the women and children, making their beds in front of the house 
in the open air. Having observed this community of sleeping 
apartments with some surprise upon turning in — retiring, though 
more elegant, can scarcely be co.nsidered appropriate under the 
circumstances — I was somewhat startled upon finding that I had 
a bedfellow when I awoke during the night. Cautiously recon- 
noitering, I discovered that it was only the gucinaco^ which, at- 
tracted doubtless by the warmth of my covering, had laid him- 
self down close alongside of me. Being fond of animals, and 
pleased with his confidence, and flattering myself that he had 
discovered by my countenance that I was a good-natured fellow, 
I did not disturb him. 

March 6. — Don Frederico being now near home, and anxious 
to see the misguided little woman who, in an evil hour, had a few 
weeks before consented to become his bride, roused us out a 
little after midnight ; but owing to the delays of Bertoldo, who 
had not entirely recovered from his jollification, and had pro- 
bably no especial motive to hasten him, being either an unmar- 
ried man or an old married man, we did not start until about 2 
A.M. We soon cleared the Cajon, or ravine, after which we 
descended gradually through a dry and consequently sterile 
country to a line of hills of a moderate height, apparently the 
banks of the sea or a great lake in a former geological period, 
and at present the boundary of the extensive plains which reach 
the Atlantic. At daylight I found that we had by some means 
picked up a travelling companion, a good-natured elderly guacho^ 
but where he joined us I never learned — whether at Villa Vicen- 
cio or in the Cajon before it was light ; but of one fact in con- 
nection with him I am well assured, that without his assistance 
we should have made a sorry breakfast. 

Having reached the edge of the plain we met a young gnacho 



THE CORDILLERA. 1 : 

on his return from Mendoza, wiio was found to be the possessor 
of two loaves of bread, which my companions jestingly demanded, 
and he willingly gave them when he learned that we had not 
breakfasted, I offered money to pay him for the bread and his 
trouble, and to reward his charitableness, but found the greatest 
difficulty in prevailing on him to accept it. He appeared to 
think himself fully compensated by being permitted to observe 
the ravenous manner in which we devoured the loaves which ha 
had carried some 'thirty mileSj and which he perhaps intended as 
a present to his sister or sweetheart. 

Although dry bread is a rarity and a luxury to these rude in- 
habitants of the plains, we found it without water by no means 
savoury, and no little satisfaction was expressed by the whole 
party when the old guacko, who had this morning joined us, pro- 
duced from a leather bag a quantity of ckarqm, or jerked beef, 
pounded into a sort of coarse fiour. The chai-qui and our morn- 
ing ride gave such a rare flavour to our bread, that we made an 
excellent breakfast, and I can honestly recommend the use of it 
to any traveller, as being at the same time one of the most 
nutritious and portable articles of food that I have met with dur- 
ing my various journeys. 

Between us and Mendoza lay a barren plain or travesia of 
some thirty miles without water. Stones, stunted bushes, and 
dry sand were its staple productions, and it seemed as if its bed 
of sand had formerly been under water, and the receptacle of the 
stones brought down by the mountain torrents. 

As the heat was great, the view uninteresting, and the neces- 
sity for sparing our animals less urgent than heretofore, we 
travelled rapidly, bemg especially incited thereto by the impa- 
tience of Frederico. During our transit, Astorga availed himself 
of the fact of our being alone to consult with me relative to tak- 
ing up our quarters at Frederico's house, or rather that of his 
father-in-law, which he had also been invited to do. He ex- 
pressed his dislike and suspicion of his good faith, upon which I 
informed him of the result of my own experience. It was then 



192 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



deiermined that we should both refuse aod go to a fonda, Froni 
this judicious determination we were not persuaded but abso- 
lutely forced, in the sequel, being positively informed that there 
was no place of public entertainment in the city, and were 
finally obliged to take up our quarters in conformance with the 
pressing invitation. There we remained together for three days, 
when, much to my regret, Astorga set out for his native city of 
San Juan, urging upon me at leave-taking, notwithstanding my 
repeated refusals, the acceptance of his two heavy blankets, the 
possession of which I envied him so much during the cold nights 
we had passed in the Cordillera. As the weather in the plains 
at this season is mild, I really did not wish to be troubled with 
his handsome present, but finding I could not refuse any longer 
without wounding his feelings, I finally accepted them, and gave 
them to the courier upon my arrival at Buenos Ayres. Through- 
out my whole association with this gentleman, I found him kind, 
urbane, generous, and obliging, and should be most happy to 
have an opportunity at some future time to return the kindness 
in my own country which I invariably received from him in 
mountain and plain, where he always stood as a wayside com- 
panion, in glaring relief to the man who had been recommended 
to me, and to whose honour I had confided my interests, and 
who, according to the principles of hospitality, as understood 
and practised by even the most barbarous people, ought to have 
sacredly guarded them instead of taking the lead in petty impo- 
sitions. 

In the suburbs of the city we stopped at a hut to drink water, 
of which we were much in want, as there is, as I have already 
stated, none on the road after leaving Villa Vicencio. We also 
ate some water-melons, which here attain great perfection. The 
woman who waited upon us, as also the remainder of the family, 
the young children only excepted, suff'ered from the disgusting 
deformity produced by the goitre — a disease, as we afterwards 
discovered, pervading every class of society in Mendoza. Our 
hostess, Don Frederico's mother, was rendered hideous by a goitre^ 



THE CORDILLERA. 193 

while the swelling neck of his young and otherwise pretty wife 
displayed it in its incipiency. Mendoza, the " City of the Plains," 
presents from the distance an unimposing appearance, being on 
perfectly level ground, and so surrounded by poplars that scarcely 
a habitation is seen until its streets are entered. 

The surrounding barrier once passed, its suburbs are pleasing, 
each cottage being shaded by trees and surrounded by a garden 
filled with fruit-trees, or planted with clover as a pasturage for 
their animals. The luscious green of this grass was a most 
pleasing relief to the eye after dwelling on the barren rocks of 
the Cordillera, or the parched and arid travesia ; and I could 
not but inwardly express the hope that if, like the old Baby- 
lonian king, Nebuchadnezzar, I should ever be turned out to 
grass, that my lot might be cast in such clover patches as abound 
in the suburbs of Mendoza. Advancing into the city it became 
more populous, better built, and better paved, and about 2 p.m. 
we dismounted in the courtyard of Don Frederico's father-in-law, 
where we were received with courtesy, and a room assigned for 
our joint accommodation during our sojourn. 



CIIAPH3R XTIL 



MENDOZA. 



March 7.— Rose early, when, after taking my '' matte^'^'' I was 
informed by Don Frederico and his father-in-law, that I must 
visit the police-office to have my passport viseed, and that as a 
preliminary step I must mount the red ribbon, the devisa of the 
dominant party, on my hat, and in the button-hole of my coat. 
To this I stoutly objected, but finding that my host was becoming 
alarmed for his own safety in the event of my refusal, and that 
without these badges I could not obtain access to the government 
house, I submitted, and marched off with Frederico, as patriotic 
a federalist to all appearance as might be seen in the streets of 
Mendoza. The entrance to the police office, which with other 
government offices opened upon an area, was guarded by armed 
men. Soldiers, I cannot call them, as they had neither uniform, 
drill, or discipline, and were altogether, the most brigandish look- 
inor wretches I have ever met in South America or elsewhere. 
The troops of her Majesty Ranavolano, the reigning queen of 
Madagascar at the period of my visit in 1844, were well- 
disciplined troops and mild-mannered gentlemen in comparison. 
After displaying my passport to the chief of the police, himself a 
rude and brutal personage, I enquired if he were satisfied, and 
receiving an affirmative reply, pointed to my devisa^ and asked 
him whether I had been rightly informed and would be obliged 
to wear it. He answered in the affirmative, when I informed 
him that I looked upon these badges as evidences of partizanship 



MENDOZA. 195 



that this was the device of the federal party, and that blue was 
worn by the Unitarians as also by the Montevideans ^ with 
which republic the Argentine Confederation was at war. At the 
same time the United States held amicable relations with the 
republic of Monte Video, and would not consider one of their 
officers justified in adopting any party or national device. To 
this plain exposition of facts I added the opinions of divers learned 
commentators on public law ; but his answer to all my arguments, 
that foreigners, and Americans among others, wore it at Buenos 
Ayres, and that it was a regulation with which I must comply, 
convinced me that he had no more respect for authorities than 
for my individual rights. I had before determined on my 
course of conduct, and quietly removing the badges from my 
coat and hat threw them on the floor of his office, and requested 
that he would make out my passport for Chili, from whence I 
would represent through our Charges des Affaires at Buenos 
Ayres to General Bosas, that an American, in violation of treaty 
stipulations and the comity of nations, had been prevented from 
traversing the Argentine territories. His tone instantly changed, 
and he informed me that the wearino; of the bado-e would not be 
exacted, but advised me to do it for my own personal safety, as 
seeing me without it, I might be assaulted by the lower classes. 
This peril, which I did not consider a great one, as the common 
people are by no means so enthusiastic as the government officials 
wish strangers to believe, I determined to risk, and was the 
only person in Mendoza, young or old, male or female, who was 
permitted to appear in the streets without the red ribbon, or 
with an entire beard '' Barba Cerrada," which is supposed to 
resemble the letter Z7, the initial letter of the obnoxious Uni- 
tarians. 

Upon the occasion of an interview with Mr. , a resident 

political agent of Rosas, who shares the influence of his chief 
over the authorities of this remote province, he assured me that 
he would speak to the governor, and that I might safely dispense 
with the devisa^ and that my beard should likewise be respected, 



196 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES, 



after which assurance I whisked the latter about the streets of 
Mendoza as fiercely as did the veteran Kildermeister his three 
feet queue tied with an eel skin, which has been so happily 
rescued from oblivion, and immortalized in connection with Peter 
the Headstrong, and General Van Poffenburgh, by the graphic 
and faithful pen of Diedrich Knickerbocker. 

Notwithstanding the victory I had achieved, I found that there 
was a limit to my prerogatives, which I did not however consider 
of sufficient importance to warrant a further negotiation, as my 
stay in this city would be limited to a week. Without a devisa^ I 
could not enter a governmBnt office, which I felt as an inconve- 
nience, owing to the fact that the post office at which I expected 
letters from Chili was situated in the hollow square of the public 
buildings. 

But at the door stood two cut-throat-lookino^ sentinels, with 
their dirty red caps, ponchos, and spurs, supported on their mus- 
kets, which they were too lazy to shoulder, and watching care- 
fully that no improper person should pass within ; that is, that 
no person without a devisa^ myself namely, as I was the only 
person in the city thus distinguished. While awaiting in the 
street one day the return of a friend whom I had requested to 
inquire for letters within, I had an opportunity of observing how 
rigid were the regulations respecting the wearing of this magical 
emblem of patriotism or partizanship, the brightness of which is 
considered an evidence of good faith and fidelity to the existing 
state of things. A j;c^?i or labourer, with a poncho, attempted 
to pass the guard, and although the red ribbon was plainly distin- 
guishable on his hat, the presented bayonet of the sentinel pre- 
vented his passing, until by raising his poncho he showed that it 
was worn in accordance to law, or regulation for such cases made 
and provided, in the button hole of his jacket. In this particular 
instance the unfortunate j'^^on had it on the right, and conse- 
quently according to usage on the wrong side, and was obliged to 
transfer it before the savage looking guacho allowed him to 
pass. 



MENDOZA. .197 

Vive la Re^ullique^ or in the language of the country, success 
to the Argentine Confederation and death to its enemies. I was 
now fairly quartered in Mendoza, though by no means agreeably, 
as in their domestic habits the people at home are far from our 
standard of cleanliness either in their dress or the service of the 
table. At the house of my host it was by no means uncommon to 
sit down with several men in not very tidy shirt sleeves, while 
the dining-room was filled with very dirty children belonging to 
the family, who rolled about the earthen floor with the mangey 
dogs, and half-naked children of the negro servants. 

Near the dining-room was a bed-chamber, the door of which 
was invariably open, and though I consider myself an old 
traveller and not over nice, I could never eat with any ^' gusto" 
until my back was turned upon the uninviting unmade bed and 
its appurtenances. Neither was the food of such a quality or 
served in such a manner as to provoke the appetite, it being 
coarse and badly cooked, and served up in a mass which fre- 
quently left a pleasing doubt as to its original elements. 

It is pleasing, however, to record the fact that there appears 
to be a progressive improvement, as the younger portion of the 
population are much more nice in their dress and habits than that 
which is passing away. At meals — cheap Spanish wine, or that 
of the country is generally used, although Cancu^ or Brazil- 
ian rum appears to be the favourite beverage among the old 
men. The ceremonial of drinking healths, which is so burden- 
some in Brazil, appears to have never found its way to this city, 
or to have been abandoned. Although we find no temperance 
societies, or few who practice total abstinence, examples of ex- 
cessive drinking are very rare. 

Owing I presume to the rarity of the atmosphere, due to the ele- 
vation above the sea level in this city as well as in Santiago, the 
effects of excessive or even what would in our country be termed 
^moderate drinking, is so hurtful to the nervous systera as to 
break down even the strongest constitution in a few years. 
Whether^ this effect, of the existence of which there cannot be the 



19S CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



slightest doubt, is entirely attributable to the causes just alliided 
to, I am unable to decide, and have been informed that in some 
parts of Bolivia at a much greater elevation than either Santiago 
or Mendoza, spirits are used in great quantities with impunity. 
The custom which was at one time common in our own country 
of drinking raw spirits before breakfast, yet exists in Mendoza, and 
in fact in almost all parts of South America. Our morning 
dram was generally termed an antifogmatic, an appropriate term 
iu our moist climate. In the table lands of Brazil and Mendoza 
where fogs are rare, it is termed " Ma^a Bich^," insect killer. 

The principle involved is precisely the same, and the names 
given in each case may obscure but do not conceal the true motive 
in resorting to stimulants. Neither do the house-keepers of 
Mendoza devote greater attention to the cleanliness of their bed- 
rooms and their dining-rooms, as that occupied by Astorga and 
myself was never once swept during our occupancy of a week, 
nor did our bed receive the slightest attention from any member 
of the household during that period. His ^eon Jacinto not only 
made our beds when it became absolutely necessary, but brought 
water to wash, cleaned our boots, and in short performed all the 
duties which in other countries pertain to the household servants. 

The principle which seems to govern the householders of this 
country, as well as the great majority in the interior of Brazil, is 
to cleanse the bed-room upon the arrival of a guest, and per- 
chance again at his departure, so woe to those who remain long 
in the same house without a ^eon of their own, who among the 
multifarious accomplishments required of a traveller's servant 
should also understand the art of washing bed-linen. 

Notwithstanding, however, the inconveniences of this system to 
the traveller, it has obvious advantages to the householders of a 
country where the paucity of hotels make private hospitality a 
matter of necessity, as it will inevitably prevent a longer stay than 
is absolutely necessary. It frequently occurred to me during my 
journeys in South America and my sojourn in some seaports of 
Mexico, that while the wealthier classes import French modistes, 



MENDOZA. 199 



music and dancing masters, they would do well to detain a few 
housewives from Holland, or some portion of the world inhabited 
by the Anglo-Saxon race, who might indoctrinate them into the 
mysteries of domestic economy and cleanliness.* 

The attendance at the table and the bringing of a cup of 
matte to the bedside in the morning by a female servant, is 
all the service rendered by the domestics to a traveller or a 
stranger, t 

Hoping to better myself by a change, I stole out one day to 
take a look at the only posada in the place, and upon entering 
called for some refreshment, which was brought me by a dirty- 
looking jpeon^ whose foul poncho covered, but did not conceal still 
fouler linen, and whose enormous rattling spurs upon his bare 
feet, an evidence of gentility among the rude people of the 
Pampas, as in former times among the refined knights of Europe, 
might have induced the opinion that instead of being a servant, 
he was but a temporary sojourner in the house. It is no exag- 
geration that the guaeho considers himself at home only while on 
horseback, and his bow legs is an evidence that he is spoiled for 
a graceful pedestrian. 

A single glance at the fonda, convinced me that I should not 
better my condition by exchanging my quarters, which I intended 
to do in the event that I should find greater attention to cleanli- 
ness. Though I can live on little of the coarsest food, I have a 
predilection of its having at least the appearance of cleanliness, 
in which I had found all South Americans whom 1 have visited, 
except the Chilians, remarkably deficient. 

Being essentially an inland town, Mendoza presents few attrac- 
tions to the passing traveller. There are no public buildings dis- 

* As dirty as a mantel^ (table-cloth.) being a popular comparison, will give 
a fair idea of the domestic economy of this city. 

t Lest any one should infer that I have violated the sacred rites of hospi- 
tality in setting forth the peculiarities of the internal economy in the house 
of my entertainers in this city, I will only remark that I paid most liberally 
for my right to criticise. I had business transactions of which my enter- 
tainment formed a part, and I was taken in. 



200 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES, 



tiuguished either for size or arcLitecture ; their churches being 
inferior to those of any of the Chilian towns already described. 
The city contains about twelve thousand inhabitants,* and, as is 
almost invariably the case in South American cities of Spanish 
origin, is regularly laid out in squares. 

The houses, which are seldom more than one story high, are 
for the most part built of adobe ^ or large unburnt brick, the better 
class being white-washed and tiled, while the others remain the 
naturally sombre color of the clay, and are covered with grass, or 
a sloping bed of clay, which, in the dry climate of the table lands, 
affords a sufficient protection. In a few isolated instances the 
roofs are flat and terraced, as in Yera Cruz and Havana. Even 
the largest houses present a small front on the street, where they 
have a ^^ poo'to calh^'^ or large door, through which horses, and 
occasionally carriages, may be driven. Those of this class gene- 
rally enclose a neatly tiled square, communicating with a garden 
where the horses are frequently pastured. 

In the centre of the principal square stands a dusty sun-burnt 
erection of stone, once a fountain, and said to have been con- 
structed during the revolution, and when the province was governed 
by the famous San Martin. The water which supplied it was 
brought from the direction of the Andes, distant at this point 
about fifteen miles. The aqueduct having been injured, or ren- 
dered temporarily unserviceable, there is no longer sufficient en- 
terprise or security to warrant its repair. The inhabitants are 
now supplied from the mountain torrent, which, under the appel- 
lation of the River Mendoza, passes through the city, and from 
wells which are generally brackish. Allusion has been already 
made to the rarity of the goitre in Chili, near the western slope 
of the Andes, when compared with the city and its vicinity, where 
every person seems more or less affected. Were the ancient 
European theory, which was founded on its prevalence in Switzer- 

^ Sixty thousand has been erroneously stated-«hy some travellers, which 
is about the entire population of the whole province, according to the Gov- 
ernment returns. 



MENDOZA, 201 

land, received as conclusive, ifc ought to be met most frequently 
in Chili, where the cold snow water is in general use, which is 
not the case in the Argentine Provinces. A tradition in Chili, 
already alluded to, makes its appearance cotemporary with the 
introduction of the Italian poplar from Mendoza, since which 
time it is said to have gradually increased. If this be true, it 
would not appear improbable that it may be contagious, and may 
have been propagated in Chili after the revolution had made the 
intercourse between the two slopes of the Andes more common. In 
all parts of the world where this disgusting disease exists it is 
popularly attributed to the peculiar composition of the water ; 
yet, a theory founded upon its saline qualities in Men doza would 
crumble like the snow water theory of Switzerland, before the 
numerous examples of its prevalence which we have observed in 
the table lands of Brazil, where the waters of a granitic region 
appear remarkably pure. In Brazil, as in certain regions in 
Hindostan, where it prevails extensively, snow is unknown. 

The boast and ornament of Mendoza is its alemeda^ or prome- 
nade, shaded by several rows of ancient poplars, and cooled by a 
murmuring brook which runs along its margin. In times past it 
was perhaps equal, if not superior, to the beautiful Canada of 
Santiago, but now its trees are untrimmed, its walks unswept and 
deserted, and it remains only as a monument of the taste and 
enterprise of a former generation. 

Why it should be thus neglected when a little labour would 
make it a magnificent promenade, I do not know, but presume it 
is attributable to the progressive indolence produced by an ener- 
vating climate, the cessation of the fictitious prosperity which 
built up this city at a point which possesses few natural advan- 
tages, and to the Tact that the more wealthy possess chacras^ or 
country houses, to which they resort during the excessive heat of 
the summer. During the colonial times frequent importations 
from Europe, of a more hardy and enterprising race, could with 
ease build those monuments which their indolent Creole descend- 
ants have not the energy to keep in repair, a fact which has been 



202 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



t 



painfully illustrated in every portion of South America except 
Chili. The description of the life of the Creoles of Mendoza, 
by Sir Francis Head, is a gem in its way, and so graphic and 
characteristic of the inhabitants of all these cities of the plains 
that I will quote it entire, as, having been written full thirty 
years ago, it has been overwhelmed and almost forgotten in the 
mountain of ephemeral literature which the age of progress has 
heaped upon it. 

" Provisions are cheap, and lihe persons who bring them quiet 
and civil ; the climate is exhausting, and the whole population in- 
dolent. Mais que voulez vous ? How can the people of Mendo- 
za be otherwise. Their situation dooms them to inactivity. They 
are bounded by the Andes and by the Pampas, and, with such 
formidable and relentless barriers around them, what have they 
to do with the history or improvements, or the notions of the 
rest of the world ? Their wants are few, and nature readily sup- 
plies them. The day is long, and, therefore, as soon as they 
have had their breakfasts, and have made a few arrangements for 
their supper, it is so very hot that they go to sleep ; and what 
could they do better ?" 

As irrigation can be easily effected in the immediate neighbour-r 
hood of Mendoza, the country is made comparatively productive. 
"Wheat is raised in quantities sufficient for domestic consumption, 
and a surplus might easily be added for exportation, did not the 
distance from a market make the transportation too expensive. 
Bounded by the Andes and Pampas, an extraordinary demand 
alone could make so bulky an article pay for its cultivation and 
transportation, and its principal wealth consists of its mines, 
which are by no means successfully wrought, its cattle, and the 
fruits of the orchard. Among the latter, grapes and peaches are 
the most prominent, and when dried are transported to Buenos 
Ayres. Of the former a sort of brandy is manufactured, which 
is extensively used in the* provinces, but is not exported. As 
an evidence of the impracticability of advantageous exportation 
of any save the most valuable products of the earth, it may be 



MENDOZA. 203 



well to mention the mode of transportation to the nearest seaports, 
and the general price exacted on freight. To Valparaiso the 
distance is about three hundred miles, and mules only can be 
employed ; the price for transportation of freight being from three 
to ^ve reals — from thirty-seven and a-half to sixty-two and a-half 
cents — per flrrcJ^ of twenty-five pounds, according to the season ; 
the journey, late in the autumn, or early in the spring, being 
both painful and dangerous. 

Merchandize to and from Buenos Ayres is transported in carts 
carrying about one hundred and fifty arrobas^ and drawn by twelve 
oxen, and the freight is generally one hundred and fifty dollars 
for each cart toward the seaboard, and sixty dollars returning. 
The danger of being intercepted by the Pampa Horse Indians, 
who ravage the provinces of San Luis, a portion of Cordova, and 
Santa Fe, almost at pleasure, doubtless contribute to keep up the 
price of transportation. In view of the remoteness of a market 
and the difficulty of transit, the attention of the more intelligent 
Mendozinos has been called to the introduction of some commo- 
dity of sufficient value to pay for its transportation, and thus re- 
instate the prosperity of the province, which has retrogaded since 
the decline in the more valuable metallic productions. An ex- 
Governor ,whose'acquaintance I made in Mendoza, has endeavoured, 
and with some success, to introduce the culture of the mulberry 
tree, and the manufacture of silk, among his countrymen. As 
the soil and climate appear favourable, it will probably be attended 
with success. The exports of the silk in cocoons amounted, at 
the time of my visit, to about seventy arrobas (iToO lbs.) per 
annum, and, as the mulberries are rapidly increasing, this culture 
promises finally to meet the views of the intelligent gentleman 
who proposed its cultivation, as the only available article which 
could pay for transportation to the seaboard. 

The public revenues of this province, which are derived from 
duties upon importations, land tax, a«d tithes, amounts to about 
fifty or sixty thousand dollars a year, according to the statement 
of a high official personage in Mendoza. From the same source 



204 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



I learned that the import duties were seven per cent, and that 
the current expenditures were from sixty to seventy thousand 
dollars per annum. The population of the province numbers 
from fifty-five to sixty thousand so.uls, the national guard or mili- 
tia to seven thousand, and the regular army of the province to 
eight hundred men. The inhabitants of the city may be divided 
into four classes : officials, merchants, idlers, mechanics, and 
peons or labourers. Those of the country into farmers or land- 
owners, and guachos or herdsmen. The third class in the enume- 
ration of the denizens of cities is one which, fortunately, has not 
become, as yet, very numerous in our country, whose inhabitants 
possess an industry inherent to their race, and fostered by our 
temperate climate. It is composed of young men connected with 
respectable, and sometimes wealthy families, who possess a limited 
amount of showy education, ride well, dance well, dress unexcep- 
tionably, in the street or abroad, and supply the young ladies o f 
Mendoza with that necessary component of society, known in all 
parts of the civilized world as beaux. As to their ultimate des- 
tiny I know about as little as did Mr. Samuel Weller of that of 
post boys and donkeys, to the latter of which animals, in an alle- 
gorical sense, they assimulate, but presume that those who are 
not provided for by an advantageous marriage, eventually merge 
into the class of inferior office holders. 

My week's stay in Mendoza passed without many incidents 
worthy of note, and the description of one day's occupation 
would serve for that of my whole stay. In the morning, at about 
eight o'clock, a female servant brought Yerba or Paraguay tea in a 
small silver mounted gourd, and which I was expected to imbibe 
through a silver tube, at a temperature a little, but not much 
below two hundred and twelve Fahrenheit ; the same gourd and 
the same tube, the former having been replenished, were then 
handed to Astorga, my room-mate, when it again returned to me, 
and so on, ^^ mutatis mutancfis,'*'^ until we had both pronounced 
ourselves satisfied. After matte we were then allowed to rise or 
renew our sleep at our own discretion, as by no chance could we 



MENDOZA. 205 



expect our breakfast before 10 a. m. When it appeared it con- 
isted generally of roast mutton, wine and bread, with the preli- 
iiinary glass of cana^ ^'' Para maiar los animalculii^^'^ and termi- 
aated with a cup of tea. We were then free to go where we 
pleased until two, when our dinner of nearly the same material, 
was served, with this difference, that a cup of black coffee was 
substituted for tea, which was served at breakfast. 

The interval between breakfast and dinner I generally employ 
ed at the house of an Englishman, who, by some means, had 
found his way into this city, where, with the customary good for- 
tune of his race, he had formed a matrimonial alliance with a 
wealthy and respectable lady, and was the possessor of a small 
store or shop, and sundry ox carts, with which he conducted an 
advantageous traffic with Buenos Ayres in the transportation, sale, 
and exchange of dried fruits. Another house where I passed 
several agreeable mornings was that of a Scotch physician, who, 
after wandering through various parts of South America, had es- 
tablished at 3Iendoza, where he practiced his profession, and gave 
his attention to a grazing estate, which he had in the vicinity. 
He was an intelligent and highb? educated man, had acquired 
property, and, having formed no ties by marriage in the province, 
it was and is a matter of surprise that ha can consent to dole out 
a miserable existence in a place where he can find so very few 
congenial spirits. His kind and hospitable reception of me was 
an evidence of his gratification at meeting one who, though not a 
countrvman, could converse in his own lansruas-e, and could dis- 
cuss with him subjects which must, but for the arrival of a chance 
traveller, remain for ever buried in his own thoughts, as an unex- 
changable commodity iu that region. Another friend, a native, 
to whom I had letters of introduction from Santiago, also assisted 
me to while away the mornings, which, but for the kindness of the 
three persons here mentioned, must have hung heavily upon my 
hands. 

After dinner the streets are deserted, shops and doors generally 
closed, and willing or unwilling, the traveller, who may not ba 
10 



206 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



supplied with books, must occupy the intensely bat hours of the 
afternoon in a siesta^ during which the city appears like Stock- 
holm, or St. Petersburg, on an arctic summer's night, bating the 
difference of temperature. After the siesta, and when the 
declining sun and the afternoon breeze have made the tempera- 
ture somewhat more bearable, I frequently rode in the suburbs, 
which are highly cultivated, and being shaded by trees, covered 
with vegetation, and abounding with vineyards, whose vines bent 
beneath their luscious loads, was really a delightful ;pn§co. In 
these rides I sometimes called at a country house, where the richer 
denizens of the city had retired for the summer, and enjoyed the 
liberal hospitality of the owners, drinking a glass of cana with the 
father, smoking a cigarito with the ancient matrons, whom I 
astonished by the '' length of my heard, and tht extent of my 
travelsj^^ and listening to the wild, though pleasing and plaintive 
songs of the senoritas, who, accompanying themselves on the guitar, 
sung without being pressed, and without the array of maudlin 
excuses, so common in some other countries boasting a higher 
degree of social refinement, and rightly considering that they 
were conferring upon me a favour for which I ought not to be 
expected to importune them. Returning from my ride, I visited 
some families with whom I had become acquainted, and was 
almost invariably entertained with music, tea, and cigars. No 
excuse, apology, or invitation is considered necessary, should 
the guest during his visit wish to smoke. He simply takes out 
his cigarito, and either striking a light with the flint and steel, 
with which every one is provided, or receiving one at the hands 
of one of the family, puffs away as if it were a matter of course. 
The older ladies will frequently join him, or, perhaps, take the 
initiative *, but the younger ones seldom smoke, at least in com- 
pany with strangers, being aware that it is not considered 
'' comme ilfaut,^'' in all parts of the world. Among the more 
refined in iho city, it is necei^ary to ask for a national song to 
have it sung, as Italian operas have banished them almost entirely 
fyom the drawing-rooms, and I have been surprised to hear cari- 



MENDOZA. 207 



tinas and arias from even the most recent operas, in this remote 
city, where so few other elements of European refinement have 
found their way. French and Italian dances and songs are 
as familiar as household gods, where the substantial improvements 
of the Anglo-Saxon race are considered almost in the light of 
pleasing pictures. While in the country, the same ladies who 
would accompany the music of Bellini, Rossini, or Donizetti, on 
the piano, will take up a guitar, and sing their Spanish songs 
without a special request, thus shewing an appropriateness to 
time and place, which does not always distinguish musical ama- 
teurs. The Spanish voice I cannot consider musical, as there is 
almost invariably something harsh in their tones, whether due to the 
character of the indigenous music, or some peculiar construction of 
the larynx, I am not able to pronounce, though on account of its 
universality, I am inclined to the latter opinion. Among the 
ladies with whom I became acquainted in Mendoza, were some 
fair specimens of the mezzo-soprano voice, and one, particularly, 
sung the beautiful Barcarole from Marino Faliero^ with a taste 
and execution I have seldom heard surpassed. My evenings were 
generally passed at the house of the Ex-Governor, Don Tomas 
Godoy Cruz, to whom I have alluded as distinguished for his 
attempts to introduce the culture of silk, and who gives tertulias 
eyevj evening, to which his acquaintances, male or female, come 
or not at their discretion, invitations once given being considered 
as extending '^ ad infinitum ^^"^ an arrangement which possesses its 
peculiar advantages for the few strangers, who may find themselves 
in Mendoza. On Sunday evening the rooms are generally full, 
while any evening there is enough to get up a quadrille or polka 
in the drawing-room, while Don Tomas entertains his male guests 
in his sanctum adjoining, with caha^ cigaritas, and cake. 

Ilis wife and daughter, the latter an interesting, pretty, and 
intelligent little girl, played and sung well, and music formed a 
prominent part of the evening's entertainments. The two pianos 
which adorned the two parlours, were handsome and expensive 
instruments, and alike an evidence of the taste and wealth of the 



208 GHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



owner of the mansion. The older male members of the comLnu- 
nity, or those, who, like myself, were not skilled in the terpsicho- 
rean art, generally congregated in the sanctum, where through 
the open doors we could witness the dancing, and hear the music, 
while we discussed oui- cigars, cana^ and the state of the world 
at large, and the ultimate destiny of California, which was then 
the prevailing topic of conversation, in particular. Being the 
first person who had ever arrived- in Mendoza from El Dorado, I 
was the oracle of the day, and I confess my patience was so severely 
tried, that I would have been willing to have consigned that rich 
mineral region, with all its gold, to the dignified insignificance 
which it enjoyed when in the course of my service I first visited 
its shores. When in Santiago, 1 first saw in a Valparaiso Jour- 
nal, a translation of the decree from General Persifyir Smith, 
prohibiting foreigners from occupying the public lands in Cali- 
fornia, and knowing from the dissatisfaction there expressed, that 
it would be highl}^ displeasing to the people of Mendoza, many 
of whom were preparing to start in search of a speedy fortune, 
I was careful to make no allusion to it, and hoped most ardently 
that I might be allowed to depart before the news could be trans- 
mitted to Mendoza. In this, however, I was disappointed, as a 
Journal containing the decree arrived about three days before my 
departure. The torrent of complaints and questions now showered 
upon me, at the evening tertulia of Don Tomas, were overpower- 
ing, and I was compelled to seek the society of the ladies for 
protection. Indeed, I seriously thought of attempting to dance, 
in order to save myself from the persecutions of my inveterate 
tormentors. The alleged want of liberality of the G-overnment 
of the United States was boldly attacked, and this decree was 
pronounced more tyrannical than any of the edicts of the sublime 
Porte, or the Czar of all the Russias. Finding escape impossi- 
ble, and becoming somewhat roused by the unmerited abuse of our 
liberal institutions, I turned upon my assailants, and if I did not 
substantiate my position, and that of my government, by argu- 
ments, I silenced them by carrying the war into Africa, and 



MENDOZA. 209 



showed them how little right they had to speak of tyranny, when 
they themselves, nominally a republic, did not dare to venturG 
into the streets without the badge of servitude to the dictator 
Rosas, who, under the title of Governor only of the Province of 
Buenos Ayres, encharged with the foreign relations of the 
Kepublic, ruled with a rod of iron the remotest point of the Con- 
federation ; that while they allowed their citizens and even their 
officials to be shot and deported at the discretion of the Dictator, 
whose espionage even at this remote point, and beyond his nom- 
inal and legal jurisdiction, struck terror into every heart, and 
silenced every ton.frue. These retaliatory arguments, which were 
addressed principally to a shopkeeper, the poet and savan of the 
city, who made himself peculiarly officious, were effective, and he 
was silenced, as with the badge of servitude on his breast and hat, 
he did not dare deny the truth of my assertions, especially, as 
his denial might perchance have been construed into treasonable 
language by any one present, whose interest it might have been 
to denounce him. This is not the only instance, nor is Mendoza 
the only city, where men groaning under tyranny at home which 
they fear to denounce, revenge themselves on it as an abstraction 
by exclaiming against it as it exists in some remote point, thus in- 
curring no danger or responsibility. 

I understood perfectly well the school in which the ?vIendo- 
zinos had formed their opinions relative to mines and metals, and 
could appreciate perfectly their views and prejudices, so after 
silencing the declamation of the oracle, whose bad taste sugo-ested 
vituperative abuse of my country in my presence, I condescended 
to explain to others who were more reasonable, that the Spanish 
mining laws upon which their opinions were based were neither 
universal or in accordance with reason. That the wealth of all 
countries, which had flourished peimanently, was founded on 
agricultural and manufacturing industry, and not upon mineral 
wealth. That to give the landowner the security necessary for 
the development of its resources, a man who came groping about 
upon it in search of mines, instead of being encouraged by the 



210 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



government, would probably be indited for a trespass, and that 
should he haply discover and "• denounce" a mine upon the land 
pertaining to another person, so far from legally possessing it, and 
having the privilege of using any materials pertaining to the owner 
of the land at a low price established by law, as would be the case 
under the Spanish mining regulations, he would enjoy no benefit 
whatever from his discovery unless it were conceded to him by 
the liberality of the land owner.- I explained, further, that our 
laws were established for the benefit of the agriculturist and not 
the speculating miner ; and while we were so illiberal as to pre- 
vent adventurers from extracting metals from other persons' land, 
that we also extended our illiberality so far as to prevent any 
free and independent citizen from undermining his neighbour's 
house, or digging a hole in his garden, simply because he had 
declared his belief that there existed mineral wealth below, 
which he might do under the Spanish law. After explaining to 
my astonished audience that the ownership of the surface of the 
earth was supposed to extend to an infinitesimal point at its 
centre, I took occasion to revenge myself upon my assailants, 
who had certainly little to expect from me on the score of inter- 
national courtesy, after an unprovoked and somewhat discour- 
teous attack, by drawing a vivid picture of the difference between 
the prosperity of North and South America, taking care to 
merge all other considerations, and attribute it solely to the dif- 
ference between our common laws for security of property and 
the mining laws of Spain and her colonies. Whether convinced 
or not, they were silenced ; and, I doubt not, should the melan- 
choly-looking poet and savan whose unsparing denunciations first 
aroused me, ever gratify the world by a publication on political 
economy, that I shall receive the compliment of having some 
of my ideas upon landed tenure and mines dressed up into sono- 
rous and dignified Spanish. I learned one lesson, however, from 
the occurrence, and took measures to prevent its being generally 
known afterwards that I had visited California, which not only 
saved me a world of trouble, but may have saved me from being 



MENDOZA. 211 



robbed of my small stock of money under the erroneous impres- 
sion that I was a millionaire. 

Among others whom I met at the tertitlias of Don Tomas 
was Mr. Jpogoyen, formerly Secretary of Legation to Chili, and 
for some years doomed to a sort of honourable exile as diplo- 
matic agent of Rosas, to watch the proceedings of this remote 
frontier province. Having been educated in Buenos Ayres, and 
had much intercourse with the world, he possessed the intelli- 
gence and refinement which characterizes the well-selected 
foreira agrents of Rosas' astute srovernment. To this o^entleman's 
politeness I owe much of the information which I obtained rela- 
tive to this province, and much of the pleasure which I enjoyed 
during my visit His charming lady, a puritana or native of the 
province of San Luis, would be an ornament to any society. 

According to a preconcerted arrangement, I was to await the 

arrival of Seuor M , whose acquaintance I had made in 

Chili, and with him to cross the plains on horseback to Buenos 
Ayres. After awaiting him with anxiety for some days, I learned 
on the evening of the 12th, through a mutual friend, that he had 
arrived the night before, when I immediately called upon him at 
the fonda, and received some letters which had been committed 
to his charge in Chili. He made no apology for not notifying 
me of his arrival, and could not specify the time of his departure, 
and in truth was somewhat dictatorial and arrogant in his bear- 
ing. Our interview was short, and to me unsatisfactory, as his 
conduct was by no means distinguished by the same courtesy 
which I had received from him in C lili. I was in short treated 
in the patronizing manner which seemed to indicate that during 
our future association to hear would be to obey, as he would en- 
charge himself with the thinking which might be necessary for 
the consummation of our views. The same evening I met him 
at the house of Don Tomas, where he set himself up for an 
oracle upon all subjects, was particularly patriotic, and alluded 
frequently to his intimacy with Rosas and his interesting daugh- 
ter. His accent and mode of speaking Spanish had before sur- 



212 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



prised ine, as thougli a mao of liberal education, so far as I 
was enabled to judge during our brief acquaintance, be spoke 
Spanish -with the peculiar intonation, and adopted the dialect 
which is found in no part of the world where the Spanish lan- 
guage is spoken, except in the city of Buenos Ay res, and not 
even there among the most refined. The assurance and preten- 
sions of the man, as well as the deference paid to him, ahnost 
alarmed me, and I determined to fathom the mystery before com- 
mitting myself to his tender mercies, and accordino^ly called early 
next morning upon a friend, who briefly sketched his history. 
By birth he was supposed to be a Peruvian, and was formerly 
master of a small trading vessel, and having some claim for 
damages on account of the seizure or employment of his little 
craft by the Chilian authorities, which was so doubtful in charac- 
ter, that it required a strong government to back it. he Fn^cl'^rvj 
became an Argentine, and not only an Argentiiie^ but a l^orUno^ 
as the inhabitants of fhe city of Buenos Ayres proper are 
termed. Hence his pron^mciation, which was more conspicu- 
ous than it would have been in a native, and by which he in- 
tended to suDDort the useful fiction of his bein^ entitled to the 
powerful protection of the Argentine government in the enforce- 
ment of his claim against Chili. His importance in Mendoza 
was attributable to his supposed influence with Kosas, and to the 
suspicion which I believe to have been well fiDunded, of his 
being a secret agent of the dictator. Having informed myself 
upon this man's history, I called again upon, him to learn his 
determination about starting, when he composedly informed me 
of his intention to postpone oihr departure for a few days, kindly 
promising, however, to give me timely notice. He also eon- 
descended to inform me that he had changed his determination, 
and that we, would cross the plains in a carriage with post horses^ 
and finally, without asking me to be seated, assured me, that 
though busy at the time, he would be glad to see me at dinner at 
four, after which I was dismissed by a bow, too utterly surprised 
by his modest assurance to articulate a word. 



MENDOZA. 213 



Arriying at the house of a friend, I asked for pen and paper, 
and politely informed Don Francisco, that the mode of travel 
which we had selected was different, and that instead of eDJoying 
the pleasure of his society during his transit across the plains in 
a carriage, 1 would depart early on the following morning with 
post horses, in company with the government courier. Since 
that time, I have never met him, and upon my arrival in Buenos 
Ayres, after repeated enquiries, I found him only recognized by 
the landlady of a hotel, she having, perhaps, remembered him 
for reasons sufficiently well known to herself. Upon enquiry of 
the family of Rosas, his name was not recognized, and I believe 
I narrowly escaped a ride of nearly eleven hundred miles in disa- 
greeable society, and with the probability of having to pay 
roundly, as in my journey from Santiago to Mendoza, for the 
honour and protection which the light of his countenance might 
afford me. Having been shaved so recently and effectually by 
my protector and friend, Don Fredeiico, I was taught by expe- 
rience, and had become somewhat shy, and the next time the 
reader will find me in the light of a dupe, it will be as a protector 

and patron and not as the jprotege. The man Don F , was 

certainly one of the most gentlemanly, well informed, and impru- 
dent pretenders I have met out of my own country, and here only 
have met his equal among government contractors, who have 
influence with the departments at Washington, or -those whose 
employment is the honourable and lucrative office of log rolling 
"the contracts through Congress, v/hich they afterward dispose of 
to the highest bidder. 

To carry out my suddenly formed determination of settinor 
out with the courier, I had now to hasten my preparations. 
My first movement was to see the courier, and which was 
effected through Mr. Gronzalez, who knew him well, and 
who urged him to show me the utmost kindness and atten- 
tion, and holding him personally responsible for my safety 
and comfort. It was stipulated that I should join him at the 
house of ?vlr. Gonzalez at sunrise the following day, and thai I 
10^ 



214 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



shonld pay him forty-five dollars, for which sum he was to trans- 
port me by post to Buenos Ayres, paying the charge for horses 
and food. I considered the price very reasonable, as he himself 
would be obliged to pay to the post masters about twenty dollars, 
which would leave him twenty-five for his trouble and for the 
payment of my food, which I presume cost him about five dollars. 
This introduction and compact having been satisfactorily ar- 
ranged, I set about my other preparations, and provided myself 
with new reins to my bridle, such as were in use in the country, 
a pair of holster pistols, and a pair of chifres or bullock horns, 
w^hich suspended over my saddle under the worsted mat, were 
useful for carrying either water or some spirit to be used as a 
corrective for the same during my journey. Having all my 
preparations completed, and having promised to take a parting 
dinner with my friend the Scotch doctor, at eight o'clock, I 
returned home, and announced my hastily formed determination 
to my entertainers, and proceeded to take leave of the acquaint- 
ances whom I had made during my stay. My friend Don Fre- 
derico made not the slightest allusion to the return of my money, 
which, with as good a grace as possible, I now gave up for lost. 
My very indifferent mules too, which he had the goodness to sell 
me in Chili at a very exorbitant price, had disappeared upon my 
arrival, and to them he made not the most distant allusion. I 
understood his game perfectly, and saw that he intended that 
they should revert by default to him upon my departure. In 
this, I determined, that he should not succeed, as I felt already 
sufficiently indignant at his conduct, but awaited patiently to see 
whether he would, trusting to my ignorance or diffidence, retain 
his position of ''masterly inactivity." As the public offices 
were closed at the time, I had concluded to depart in the 
morning. I was obliged to call upon my kind friend Mr. 
Iregoyen, who obligingly obtained for me a special passport from 
his Excellency the Governor. All having been satisfactorily ar- 
ranged, and ray baggage transferred to the house from which it 
was my intention to start before dinner, which had been kindly 



MENDOZA, 215 



postponed by my friend the doctor to suit my conyenience, I 
went about nine p. m., to take leave of my ci-devant fellow-tra- 
veller and entertainer. Now for it, thought I, if he offers me the 
money or makes even a graceful apology for not payings to save 
myself trouble, he shall have the mules, otherwise, the expensive 
animals must be forked over. Upon my arrival, I found that 
Don Frederico was very ill, and in bed, with fever and a shocking 
bad headache, which, however, did not prevent my obtaining ac- 
cess to him. Our leave taking was far from tender on my part, 
as I could ill affect regret at parting from a man who had skil- 
fully availed himself of my confidence to impose upon me. My 
adieux were speedily made, and I had reached the door, when he 
remarked something about the mules, which were then several 
leagues off in the country. Oh, yes, said I, cogitating, those 
mules, and catchi g at an idea, the only one which suggested 
itself to me as a means of preventing further imposition, you 
will be so kind as to send them to Dr. Dow, with whom I shall 
leave them. And so down fell his airy vision of obtaining fifty- 
two dollars for two mules which were worth about thirty-four, 
and afterwards retaining the animals. My leave taking of his 
pretty little wife was far more cordial and affectionate, as I had 
the kindest feeling toward her, on account of her unvarying ami- 
ability and gentleness, and sympathy for her misplaced affection 
for him, I thought, in taking her hand, for the last time, my 
poor girl, you also have dealt in animals with Don Frederico, but 
unfortunately, you will, when you discover the fraud, find it more 
difficult to dispose of your bargain, than I have done in getting 
rid of my mules. Divorces are not recognized by the Roman 
Catholic Apostolic Church. Upon my return to the house of 
the Dr., I gave him an order for the mules, which I beofoced him 
to accept as a token of my esteem, and warning him at the same 
time against that one which attempted to murder me in the Cor- 
dillera. This order he sent immediately to Don Frederico, that 
it should be accepted before my departure, thus displaying his 
lack of confidence in his half-blood countryman. All my pre 



216 CHILi AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 

parations now having been completedj I .sat down with relish to 
my long delayed dinner, which possessed the peculiar virtue of 
being got up in a cleanly style, varying in this respect from any- 
thing which 1 had seen elsewhere in Mendoza. In my different 
journeys in South America, during which it has been my good or 
evil fortune to partake of bread and salt with men fi'om almost every 
part of Europe, I have always observed that the English and 
Scotch are the least likely to fall into the slovenly habits of the 
people among whom they may reside. The French, Italians, 
Germans, Irish, and even our own countrymen, are prone to 
assimilate their customs to those of their associates ; but John 
Bull and his half-countryman, Sawney, carry with them their 
national customs and national habits of cleanliness, and their 
tables and domestic arrangements will be found as nearly as they 
can be made, a fac simile of what they were accustomed to at 
hom-e. This fact is another evidence of their devotion to their 
country, in which 1 believe they excel all other nations, and from 
which they are only driven by a stern necessity, and to which 
they always look as the koine to which they will return to enj -y 
their hard-earned chains acquired during their involuntary exile. 
Is either of the other European nations above alluded to, possess 
much love of country, and while successful in their newly ac- 
quired homes, seldom look forward to a return to the land of 
their birth, and are speedily merged in the native population 
among which they may be established. Even my own country- 
men, the lineal descendants of the English, notwithstanding what 
our truckling journalists and demagogues who live by fiatteiing 
the foibles of the people, assert to the contrary, do not by any 
means possess the same attachment to their native soil that we 
find among our progenitors. What is frequently termed tbe 
enterprise of the American people, in which wo excel all others, 
is at times but another name for a disregard to the ties of coun- 
try and the place of our birth ; and there is no new country with 
an ample field of production, which has so many citizens spread 



MEXDOZA. 217 



through the world in search of fortune.^ The English, like the 
Chinese, only go abroad when the density of population and 
superabundance of labour and capital make it difficult to obtain 
a comfortable subsistence at home. 

The legal fiction embodied in English common law that the 
crown cannot lose a subject by expatriation, is founded upon, 
the character and genius of the people. After dinner the 
hours fleetly glided by in conversation, until actual inspection in- 
formed us that a fearful inroad had been made into the small 
hours of the night, and advertised me of the necessity of obtain- 
ing some rest prior to next day's journey, which attempt, however, 
Was eloquently resisted by the doctor, who let go the only link 
which associated me in his own mind with home with the utmost 
reluctance, and producin^r a new batch of cigars, insisted on 
finishing the night, as the time hr starting had so nearly arrived. 

Sharing in his feelings, I allowed myself to be persuaded, and 
early daylight found us cosily seated at his table. No longer 
delay could now be asked or conceded, and we left his house for 
that of Mr. Gonzalez, he first throwing over my shoulders a 

* I suppose I may express my opinions on such a subject with impunity, be- 
ing mysell "to the manner born.'' I remember once attending the anniver- 
sary of the Brazilian Historical and Geographical Society, at which the 
emperor presided in person, and though, somewhat familiar with the libeity 
of speech enjoyed in that empire was not a jittle surprized to hear the 
orator of the dead, an artist, while pronouncing a well-merited euiogium 
upon some of the members lately deceased (and who numbered among them 
the best statesmen and patriots wh ch the country had produced) , reflect 
severely not only upon the emperor, but upon his father Don Pedro and his 
grandfather Don Joas III. Meeting him afterward. I enquired the reason of 
ttiis attack, Vv'hen the orator informed me that he had thus written it. because 
in the first place it was the truth, and in the second, from a desire to show the 
numerous foreign officials present, that the E.nperor of Brazil was willing 
to hear even a disagreeable truth from his own suhj cts. '' There is a 
divinity that doth hedge in a king,-^ and no where is the sanctity so obsti- 
nately insisted upon as by the many-headed sovereigns in a republic, who 
are frequently unwilling to hear a disagreeable truth, even from one of their 
fellow sovereierns. 



•218 . CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



valuable Vicuna jooncJio^ of native Peruvian manufacture, of a 
beautiful texture and great rarity, which he insisted upon my 
accepting as a token of his esteem, and as a remembrance of my 
brief sojourn in Mendoza.* 

Arriving at the house of Mr. Gonzalez, we found that my bag- 
gage had been carefully packed in the portmanteau containing 
the mails, my horse ready saddled, pistols loaded, the courier 
and postilion awaiting only my arrival ; so putting on my spurs, 
and taking an affectionate leave of Mr. G. and the Doctor, whose 
kindness I shall ever remember with gratitude, I mounted my 
horse, and at a rapid gallop soon left behind me the ancient and 
loyal city of Mendoza. Gallo^^ gallojp^ now I had really com- 
menced my journey ! and dashing over the pampas with the cool 
breeze of the morning fanning my face, I felt that I had entered 
upon a new and more exhilarating existence. 

* Since writing the above I met an English gentleman who visited JMen- 
doza a fev^ months after my departure, and by whom 1 was informed that 
my kind and warm-hearted friend the Doctor w^as dead, 'having been assas- 
sinated by some unknown person while in his bed. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

A GALLOP ACROSS THE PAMPAS. 

March 14. — About a league from Mendoza we obtained regular 
post horses, those upon which we left having been obtained only 
for our conveyance to this point. Having speedily effected the 
change, we were soon off again at a rapid pace on our route, 
which led us through a country well watered, fertile, well culti- 
vated, producing various fruits, and presenting a striking con- 
trast to tne barren travesia extending between Villa Vicencio 
and Mendoza. The trees were all exotic, consisting principally 
of the apple, peach, and the invariable poplar, while everything 
gave evidence that the luxuriance of vegetation was attributable 
to the efforts of man. Our party now consisted of three persons, 
the government courier who accompanies the mail from Mendoza 
to Buenos Ayres ; a man of about fifty years, tall and well- 
formed, though apparently somewhat heavy for his long monthly 
rides at a furious pace across the plains, which had been his 
employment for some eighteen years. His dress was jacket and 
trowsers, which he occasionally varied by adopting the C/iiripo.^ 
a piece of square red flannel, which is secured round the loins, 
thus covering a portion of the legs, and worn over white cotton 
drawers fringed with lace at the bottom. The Chiripa is a 
favourite dress in the province of Buenos Ayres, though not 
worn so generally in Mendoza, San Luis, or San Juan, and is 
supposed to possess peculiar advantages in the way of coolness in 



220 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



riding. In my own opinion, which the courier's experience cor- 
roborated, it has disadvantages for which the coolness by no 
means compensates. His hat was a Panama, which is very gener- 
ally worn in these provinces, and round his waist he wore a cart- 
ridge belt secured by Mexican dollars in lieu of buttons, and was 
further ornamented by some sixteen others. His poncho, holster, 
pistols and silver-sheathed knife which was stuck inside of his 
cartridge belt behind, in addition to his enormous jingling spurs, 
completed his equipment. The dress of the postilion whom we 
exchanged with the horses, was similar to that of the courier, 
but much inferior in quality. His duty was to return with the 
horses and to carry the mail portmanteau, which, sub rosa^ con- 
tained all the spare clothes with which I thought it desirable to 
encumber myself. I have frequently smiled at their astonishment 
at its weight, and their various opinions as to what the Mendoza 
government was communicating to Buenos Ayres, which made 
it the heaviest mail which had traversed the country since 
the last Unitarian pronunciamento had carried consternation 
through the provinces. The two blankets presented me by my 
friend Astorga, were also carried by the postilion upon his saddle, 
and in addition to my serajpe, formed my bed at night. 

My own dress and accoutrements, I found convenient, and will 
describe them for the benefit of future travellers. My hat was 
of slouched felt, of the style called Genoa ^ of a light colour, and 
sufficiently thick to prevent the rays of the sun penetrating. 
My coat was a thin woollen frock of a light colour, and well 
supplied with exterior pockets, grey lancer trowsers foxed, and 
worn with leather straps over boots of medium thickness fitted 
with box spurs. A ])oncho and pair of holster pistols completed 
my equipments, the most satisfactory I have yet found after mak- 
ing various experiments. My scra/pe was between the saddle blan- 
kets, where it would not become wet with perspiration, and caused 
the saddle to sit more lightly on the horse. In consideration of 
being a passenger, and a gentleman who had forked up liberally, 
and who had been committed to the charge of the courier by his 



A GALLOP ACPxOSS THE PAMPAS. 221 



friend Sefior Gonzalez, I was not expected even to carry the 
ckifres containing the spirits, which were born either by Don 
Antonio or saddled upon the poor postilion, who, perched upon 
my thick blankets, almost concealed by the mail bag, which, per- 
haps, may have contained 07ie pound of letters in addition to my 
holiday coat, divers trowsers, shirts, etc., and surrounded by the 
numerous articles he was called upon to make room for, reminded 
me of a flying Santa Claus, as he dashed over the plains at a 
short gallop. A gratuity of a real or medio, or a glass of grog 
from the cMfres generally compensated him, though my con- 
science did not exculpate me so freely for the imposition upon 
the uncomplaining animals. By the way, it is somewhat aston- 
ishing that among the numerous philanthropic movements of the 
present age, when so many hundreds of thousands are annually 
expended for the conversion and benefit of various portions of 
the human race who have happily succeeded by extirpating the 
tail, in removing the only tangible difference between them and 
the genus si?}iiay that no societies are established for the ameliora- 
tion of the condition of the noble and generous horse who gives 
his last breath under the saddle of his hard taskmaster. In our 
philanthrophy and morbid sympathy for those who do not ask or 
require it, we forget and maltreat the useful animals who have 
assisted so powerfully to elevate our race. When it becomes 
generally known that the benighted Hindoos are in advance of u^s 
in this particular, I have little doubt that our philanthropists will 
rapidly make up for lost time, and it would be no cause of sur- 
prise if even the existing generation should witness the establish- 
ment of hospitals for dyspeptic alligators, or asylums for super- 
annuated grizzly bears, with whose virtues and wants the progress 
of southern and western emio:ration is dailv making us more 
familiar. Should any of the chosen vessels act upon the sugges- 
tion which with due humility I submit to their consideration, I 
have little doubt that their claim-s could be as fully substantiated 
as those of the slave-huntino: nesfroes on the African coast, and 
the interesting cannibals of the Fejee Islands, who have for some 



222 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



time been excellent sinking funds' for the spare cash of the cre- 
dulous. 

But as our friend Don Walter, the author of '' Deck and 
Port," frequently inquires after an episode, " What has all this 
to do with doubling Cape Horn ?" what has this to do with 
crossing the pampas ? The echo answers nothing. So to use a 
time-honoured quotation which has perhaps appeared at least 
once in every popular book of travels during the present cen- 
tury, '' Kevenous a nous Viiouton^'^ which in my particular 
instance will translate — Leaving philanthropists, grizzlies and 
alligators, as also the Fej^es and negroes whom the advocates of 
the unity would fain libel us by saddling upon the high caste 
Caucasian, we will return to our horse. 

A few hours' ride and Don Antonio and myself were sworn 
friends, a desirable state of things, to which my gift of a poncho 
before starting, and my two thick blankets at our journe3^'s end 
in perspective, I have no doubt contributed, though I am willing 
to do justice to his many generous and noble traits, which 
I had frequently occasion to admire during my journey. 
During the morning he dropped alongside me and defined our 
respective positions, which was perfectly satisfactory to both par- 
ties. He supported his own dignity as a government officer by 
declining to call me fatron^ master, or employer, but would call 
me comjpanero or companion. I was, however, to have, under all 
circumstances, the second best horse, the first cut of the roast^ 
the first drink at the chifre^ and was not to have the trouble of 
saddling or bridling my own animal, which was to be done as an 
understood favour by either the postilion, the ceurier, or by one 
of his numerous coynjpadres whom we afterward encountered at 
every post-house. In conclusion, it was thoroughly understood 
between the two high contracting parties that Don Antonio could 
not de]>^y the mail if I should become sick or fatigued, but that 
there should always exist between us a certain sympathy, mag- 
netic or galvanic, probably the latter, as it was originally con- 



A GALLOP ACROSS THE PAMPAS. 223 



ducted througli a metallic medium, so that he would always be 
sick or fatio:ued at the same time. 

Whip and spur, whip and spur, and we dash over the plains, 
marking our progress with a column of dust, which hung heavily 
in the air long after we passed. The country was still well irri- 
gated and cultivated, though none of the golden fields of wheat 
so characteristic of a Chilian landscape were visible on this side 
of the mountains. About mid-day we crossed at two points a 
small river with shingle beaches, and soon afterward arrived at 
the house of a friend of Don Antonio, who humanely suggested 
that being the first day, it might be well to indulge in a siesta^ 
which would leave us ample time to finish our day's journey 
in the cool breeze which almost invariably accompanies the de- 
clining sun. Not having slept during the previous night, of course 
I was not averse to the proposition, and, after eating some fruit 
which the family brought me, I threw myself on a bed and was 
speedily revelling in the arms of Morpheus, though not until I 
heard my friend Don Antonio expressing his fears sotto voce to 
our host that his compoMero could not endure the journey to 
Buenos Ayres. " Veremos," we shall see, Don Antonio, thought 
I ; to-day is scarcely a fair test, as I must confess I have seldom 
felt more like sleeping and less like travelling on horseback, and 
with that I incontinently indulged my fatigued senses in that sort 
of repose which none but a thoroughly tired and drowsy man 
can appreciate. I learned afterwards that during my siesta^ 
which lasted some three hours, a sort of coroner's inquest was 
held over my senseless body, in which it was decided that it 
would be impossible to carry me much farther at the rapid rate 
which Don Antonio was obliD:ed to travel, and when I had acrain 
mounted, no anxious wayfarer ever examined more intently 
the withers and wind of his horse than he did the ex- 
pression of my countenance, the state of my eyes, and 
the bend of my back. The result appeared satisfactory, 
as he shouted the cry of the courier^ Pega fuego al cavijpo^ 
''Set fire to the plain," an equivalent to our '' fire up," and 



224 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



dashing spurs into his horse's flanks, we dashed off across the 
plains at rapid gallop, our faces cooled by the evening breeze, 
and our eyes cheered by the signs of cultivation on either side 
of the road, and by the rivulets which brought fertility. Cot- 
tages were scattered along the roadside, and the graceful poplars 
showed the attention which had been bestowed upon reclaiming 
the land which, without their shade and the irrigation, would be 
a desert waste. An hour befere sunset we dashed into the little 
scattering village of Retama, with our horses still comparatively 
fresh, and dismounting at the post-house, the courier announced 
his intention of awaiting the rising of the moon before proceed- 
ing farther. The post-master was also a magistrate, and having 
some legal case to decide, his court-yard was filled with guachos^ 
with their long spurs, ponchos and dogs, though I looked in vain 
for the ferocity of expression which I had seen among the sol- 
diers in Mendoza, and which I had been led to expect among 
the denizens of these plains. The post-mistress, a quite good- 
looking, matronly personage, having heard my rank and titles 
from Don Antonio, her esteemed com])adre^ in whose hands my 
importance did not suffer in the least, and heard considerably 
more than he knew of my past history, kindly invited me into the 
garden to eat grapes, which hung in luscious clusters in several 
avenues more than one hundred yards in length. With the 
native kindness and good taste of most southern women, she 
also plucked and presented me with a bouquet of flowers 
when we returned to the house. In passing through one of the 
rooms to obtain a light for a cigar, I saw a pair of pretty senor- 
itas, and learned that there was strong probabilities of a fandango 
that evening, for which I determined to prepare myself by a 
short nap in the piazza '>»n my sercqje. But alas for the weakness 
of human nature. When I was restored again to consciousness, 
it was not by the soft hand of the fair seiioiitas who had visited 
me in my dreams, but by the rough shake of Don Antonio, wlio 
informed me of three interesting facts — viz. : that the moon, 
had risen, that it was after midnight, and that he only awaited 



A GALLOP ACROSS THE PAMPAS. 225 



mj scrape to complete the saddling of my horse, and m}^ rising, 
to set out on our journey. I have read of men compounding with 
the evil one for a few more years of life ; I have seen the time 
when I would have almost paid for hours of sleep in years of life, 
and this was one of the occasions ; I had lost, too, the fandango 
and supper, to which Don Antonio would not allow me to be 
called. I was never again to see the pretty brunettes, whose 
appearance had charmed me the evening before. Boot, boot, and 
to saddle, and as we galloped out of the court yard, on our mid- 
night journey, the noise of our horses' hoofs, perchance, awakened 
the fair sleepers, who may have remarked with a yawn and a snore, 
" Se va el Gringo.'^'^* The gringos off, '' sic transit.^'' The traveller 
remains not long enough in one place to make a lasting impression, 
or to merit a more profound expression of regret at departure. 

March 15. — Our fresh horses soon carried us beyond the vil- 
lage of Retama, and as the roads were good, we seldom broke in 
upon our short post horse gallop, which our horses could better 
endure during the night than in the sultry heat of the day. For 
about three leagues our road conducted us through a country 
tolerably well cultivated, after which, it led through a travesia^ 
without water or cultivation, for the remaining distance between 
the two posts. At early daylight, we had accomplished about 
twelve leagues, and arrived at the post of Santa Rosa, where a 
pretty stream of water and cultivation took the place of the bar- 
renness which had preceded. While we drank our matte and 
discussed a cigar, the peons were bringing in the horses, which 
were speedily saddled and ready for the journey. Mine in this 
particular instance was a noble-looking beast, in fine condition, 
and by his impatient stamping and neighing, showed that he had 
not long been subjected to the discipline of the bridle and spur. 

'^ I must take the liberty of differing from the talented and witty author 
of Los Gringos, as to his translation of this Vv^ord. as the English expression 
green-horn, does not cover the ground. The term is never applied to na- 
tives, however green they may be, and I think a more correct definition 
W'Ould be " outside barbarian." 



226 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



While two men held him, I mounted, and giving him the rein 
to the courier's cry, '^ fuego al cani'po^'^ started off like the wind 
over the level road, which for some time accompanied the stream. 
Among the many horses which I rode during my journey, I never 
met one equal to this, for speed, easiness of gait, and generosity. 
To the spur he was evidently yet unused, and so sensitive and 
alive to the indignity of the whip, that did I but raise my hand to 
secure my hat more firmly upon my head, he would bound for- 
ward with a suddenness, which at times nearly left me behind 
him upon the plain. From post to post, a distance estimated at 
thirteen leagues, though in reality, I should suppose, more than 
forty miles, he carried me at abounding gallop, without my draw- 
ing rein, or applying whip or spur, a feat which may seem almost 
incredible to those who are unacquainted with the endurance of 
the jpamjpa horses. It is true that the road was nearly level, and 
as smooth as a race course, and that the post was concluded 
before the heat of the day, and while the plains were cooled by 
the morning breeze. One cannot help feeling an admiration, 
approaching to regard, for anything which performs well the 
part assigned to it, whether it be machinery, man, or the lower 
anim.als ; and I confess I felt more respect for the noble steed, 
which I thus accidentally encountered, than I have frequently 
done for many of the stolid and equally soulless specimens of 
humanity whom I have met, particularly among the uneducated 
portions of the human race, who claim to have been created in 
Grod's own image, and have accorded, at least in part, with the 
wise king of the Jews, Sooltan Soliman, that certain men '' have 
no pre-eminence over the beast." For all is vanity. Had it 
been practicable to have conveyed this horse home, I would 
have become his possessor, which would have involved an out- 
lay of about four dollars, when his back should never have been 
profaned with a whip, or his flanks with a spur. As it is, he has 
been destined to carry the couriers, Guachos, and the passing 
travellers, unknown and undistinguished from the vulgar herd, 
above which, even my heart-felt eulogium will be unable to raise him. 



A GALLOP ACROSS THE PAMPAS. 227 



Our route led through a cultivated country for the most 
part, though not so thickly inhabited as that traversed on yester- 
day. Between eight and nine o'clock, we arrived at Dormida, 
the end of the stage, which we intended to pass without break- 
fasting, but were prevented by another arrival soon after our own. 
The post house, which was constructed of adohes, contained three 
or four rooms, had ground floors, and a scanty furniture, the bed- 
steads rude in construction, with strips of green hide to receive 
and support the sleeper, and supplying for most part, the defici- 
ency of chairs and stools. The women, though not pretty, were 
tidy, and like the majority of our hostesses on the road, kind and 
communicative, and on particularly intimate terms with Don An- 
tonio, whose responsibility must be immense, if god-father to half 
the children of the women who on his extensive beat call him 
'^ comjpadreP 

While awaiting the horses which had already been sent 
for, a new party arrived, also on post horses, but coming 
from the opposite direction. As they entered 1 was not long in 
identifying their nationality, and while the courier opened upon 
the Grerman, whose knowledge of the language indicated a lon^ 
residence in the country, I commenced a series of inquisitorial 
proceedings against the other, whom I recoo-nized in an instant 
as a countryman. He bore my questioning with a good grace, and 
answered as well as he could with his limited knowledge of Spanish ; 
and his surprise was unbounded when I, at length, announced 
myself, also, as an American ; it being, to judge from his man- 
ner, the last place where he would have expected to meet a mem- 
ber of the universal Yankee nation, and last of all, an oScer in 
the navy. Of course we fraternized — men speaking the same lan- 
guage, are prone to do so in remote regions ; and having all deter- 
mined to breakfast sociably together, we sat down to enjoy a 
cigar, and give each other accounts of the road which each of us 
had traversed. I speedily learnt to my annoyance, that my 
countryman was an agent for the sale of Brandreth's pills, and 
almost felt inclined to consign Brandreth and pills to the great 



228 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



unmentionable^ wishing his gei^tlemanly representative a better 
profession. Confound Brandreth's pills, thought I, after hearing 
the announcement. 

During my journeys in the interior of Brazil, in 1843 and '44, 
by dint of considerable expenditure of money, immense fatigue, 
and divers risks of life and limb, I penetrated the wilderness of 
St. Paul's, far beyond all former travellers, having reached the 
region inhabited by undomestiQated Indians, and beyond all civi- 
lization ; but upon returning to the settlements with the compla- 
cency of a man who had performed some extraordinary and 
meritorious achievement, found I had not advanced one hundred 
and fifty miles beyond my adopted countryman, Brandreth's pills, 
and now to find not only the pills, but the agent, the representa- 
tive of the venerable Brandreth himself, in the interior of the 
Province of Mendoza, where 1 expected to find the ground sacred 
to enterprising travellers, who travel for the cause of science, or 
for love of adventurq^p it was too great a disappointment. I doubt 
whether a full dose of the pills in question, could have exercised 
so powerful an effect upon my nervous system. With fear and 
trembling, I enquired where Brandreth's pills had not and would 
not travel, intending to mark down that country for my next 
long shore cruise, but received no satisfactory reply. They are 
in effect uhiquitous ; so, hereafter, when any voyager informs the 
public that he has advanced beyond them, I shall instantly set 
him down in my own mind, as an enterprising man and a great 
traveller. Nothwithstanding this disappointment an hour passed 
agreeably while awaiting our breakfast, and while I gave my 
countryman a letter to Dr. Dow, at Mendoza, he reciprocated by 
giving me letters to Buenos Ay res ; and so rejoiced was I to meet 
a countryman, that I verily believe while the four of us were 
cozily eating casuela out of the same earthern pot, that if Dr. 
Brandreth himself had appeared in ^/•d>prz»^erso?i^, and wished to 
add a fifth spoon, and his efforts to putting its contents out of 
sight, that I should have raised no objection, and would have, 
probably, forgiven him all the annoyance he had caused me, and 



A GALLOP ACROSS THE PAMPAS. Q29 



the injury he had done my reputation as a traveller, and have 
fraternized. The chicken broth having been finished, and the 
bones eiFectuaily picked, we had breakfasted, and felt obliged to 
mount and continue our respective journeys. Our companions, 
at breakfast, were obliged to ride the stage which we had just 
passed over, on the same horses which brought us, though we 
were not obliged to receive their tired animals. This is one 
great advantage of travelling with the courier, as the Govern- 
ment exacts for him and his companions, fresh horses at every 
stage. I really felt sad when I saw my countryman, the agent, 
mount the horse which had carried me so gallantly, that morning, 
over the same ground which it had now to retrace, with a heavier 
weight and in the heat of the day. The splendid maxim, " the 
merciful man is merciful to the beast," is unknown, at least, to 
the laity in South America, and as they have upon them naught 
but the selfish checks of self-interest, little mercy can be expected 
toward the animal whose market value is very little greater than 
the fare paid by a passenger from post to post. I have never 
thought ill of the Catholic priesthood for prohibiting the reading 
of the Bible to the vulgar, as there is, indeed, much which the 
untutored mind cannot reconcile, and as the whole fabric of the 
religion is based upon faith^ that faith may well be extended to 
an implicit reliance in the interpretations of the church, and the 
injunctions of their ghostly advisers ; but I have always seen the 
want of a collection of its best maxims, such as that quoted above, 
which ought to be universally disseminated among the people, in 
order to form a ^^ jprnverhial religion.'''^ The Mahometans, in this 
respect, are better supplied than the Christians ; and though com- 
paratively few are able to read the Koran, all are acquainted with 
its most beautiful texts, as well as the sayings of the prophet 
which tradition has handed down to them. All good Mussulmen, 
whether learned or unlearned, know that Mahomet anathematized 
the man, " who sold a slave, injured a fruit-bearing tree, or 
made lime of chisseled marble," that '' a day passed in the ad- 
ministration of justice was worth seventy years of prayer," and 
11 ' ^ 



230 0H1LI AND THE ARGENTJINE PROVINCES, 



'' the ink of the wise man was more valuable in the eyes of Allab 
than the blood of the martyr." But as Don Walter would say, 
what has the ink of the wise man to do '^ with doubling Capo 
Horn ?" So mounting our horses and taking an affectionate leaye^ 
and promising to report each other's progress at the respective 
sea-ports on the Pacific and Atlantic, which was in due course of 
time fully accomplished, as I have learned from several sources^ 
the word was AdioSj adios ^^ fuego al cam'po^'^ and off we went on 
our respective routes, never, perhaps, to meet again in the broad 
pampas of life. ,The country, though a nominal plain, was now 
braken up somewhat by ravines, and was covered with low 
brushes, which inequality, added to the heat of the day, made our 
journey over the next stage slower than the two which had pre- 
ceded it. However, we arrived at Coro Corto, the end of the 
stage, about 3 p.m., finding the latter part of the raute more 
thickly inhabited and better watered. As we had journeyed about 
ninety-six miles, according to the computations generally receive-d, 
we determined to tarry for the night, especially as the next post 
house held out, according to Don Antonio, but few inducements 
in the way of food and lodging for a night's stay, and was, more- 
over, liable to an inroad of the Pampa Indians, who were, at the 
time, ravaging some settlements a few days' journey in advance. 
The post of Coro Corto consisted of three houses, built on three 
sides of a square of the invariable adobes ^ and one story in height. 
The floors were clay, but there was an appearance of cleanliness 
about the premises, which augured favourably for our supper, in 
which we were not disappointed ; as at dark we sat down to a 
nicely cooked casitekty and enjoyed, moreover, the somewhat unu- 
sual luxury of a dish, spoon, knife and fork, for each individual 
present. After supper, we made our beds in the cool air of the 
court yard, using our saddles for pillows, and by the time we 
finished our cigar, were perfectly prepared to consign ourselves to 
the rest so essential after a hard day's journey, with a more tedious 
one in perspective for the morrow. 

March 16. — At about 2 30 the indefatifrable Don Antonio had 



A GALLOP x^CROSS THE PAMPAS. 231 



aroused me with the intimation that it was time to saddle up^ as 
the moon had risen, and we must make our stage by sunrise, else 
we could not reach San Luis, owing to the great heat of the day, 
and the bad quality of the horses. Saddling up, and fortifying 
our stomachs with a little moMe^ and smoking the invariable cigar- 
ito, we mounted, and, taking leave of our entertainers, who had 
all risen to prepare our matte and see us off, we were upon our 
route at 3 a. m. The country was now somewhat broken by 
ravines, though it could not be considered hilly, and was strewn 
with loose round stones and sand, giving it the appearance of an 
ancient bed of the sea, or some vast inland lake. A stunted 
growth of hardy bushes was all the sterile plains could produce 
in the absence of all moisture. At sunrise we crossed the river 
Disaguadero, the line of demarcation between the provinces of 
San Luis and Mendoza, and near the banks of which is the mise- 
rable post house bearing the same name. This river, which is 
deep but narrow, is the outlet to one of the salt lakes of the in- 
terior. The water is extremely brackish and bitter, while the 
banks are covered by saline incrustations. The clay of the ravine 
through which this river passes has a horizontal stratification, and 
the whole topography, as well as the geology of this region, would 
leave us to infer that a portion of the country is yet in the state 
of transition between the bed of a salt lake, or the ocean and 
dry land. 

The post house at which we soon arrived after crossing the 
river, was the most miserable I had yet seen, being constructed of 
wattles covered with clay, and roofed with coarse grass. One 
room was all the hovel contained, and the many openings in the 
wall precluded the idea of anything like privacy. The only in- 
mates of this house appeared to be an old woman, a ragged ^eon^ 
who was to be our postilion through the next stage, and a nut- 
brown girl of some sixteen summers. The latter was dirty in 
the extreme, and wore but a single garment, which obscured 
without concealing her charms, and, as she was preparing our 
humble repast of beef-bone broth, which we devoured out of the 



232 GHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



same dirty-looking earthenware vessel, I could not help specula- 
ting on the change which, in a few years, could be made in her by 
transplanting her to a civilized community, and giving her the ad- 
vantages of education and a French m odiste. Women are pro- 
verbially quick in attaining a certain degree of refinement, and 
there is little doubt that but a short time would elapse before this 
slovenly, bare-legged girl could be transformed into a reigning 
belle, even in a large city. Otir breakfast was in keeping with 
the appearance of the house, and even the water was so brackish 
as to be scarce potable. After some delay the horses arrived, 
and my spirits fell incontinently at their forlorn and half-starved 
appearance.* 

The courier was evidently prepared for the apparition, and 
only indulged in a prolonged and melancholy whistle as he pro- 
ceeded to saddle up. As the horses were ill able to bear the 
weight of the riders, we obtained a spare one to carry the so-called 
mail bag, the legitimate contents of which might have been car- 
ried in my pocket. When we started it was without enthusiasm, 
and, for the first time, Don Antonio did not indulge in his cheer- 
ing cry of " Prende fuego al cam'po?'^ In the neighbourhood of the 
Disaguadero a strong disagreeable wind was blowing during our 
stay, as I was informed was almost invariably the case, which 
afi'orded me a clue to names frequently given on Spanish maps to 
certain localities, as the '' Paramo," the desert or the windy spot. 
This wind, which blew in gusts resembling those which we ob- 
serve in our country on the day prior to a rain or storm, appeared 
to be quite local, and confined to the ravine through which the 
river flowed, and its immediate vicinity. The whole aspect of 
this locality was trhtt in the extreme, and the only relief which 
the eye and mind found in dwelling upon it was the distant view 

"^ I learned from Don A. that this family, notwithstanding their miserable 
mode of life, owned some five thousand cattle, and eight hundred brood mares. 
Perhaps the insecurity attributable to the occasional incursions of the In- 
dians discouraged them from accommodating themselves with better 
quarters. 



A GALLOP ACROSS THE PAJMPAS. 233 



of the blue mountain of St. Luis, which now appeared above the 
horizon, and which was to be the terminus of the day's ride. 
Our journey, commenced under disagreeable auspices, was less 
agreeable even than we anticipated, and our road led us through 
a dreary and barren country, where the heat soon became intense. 
After progressing about four leagues I found it impossible to ob- 
tain a gallop from my poor horse, with the limited powers of my 
European spurs, and was obliged to exchange with the postilion. 
The change, however, involved little improvement, and four leagues 
from the next post house, the horse carrying the mail-bag was 
completely worn out, and had to be left on the road side, while 
the postilion took it upon his own horse, where his cruel spurs 
could goad even a dying beast into exertion. Houses were occa- 
sionally found by the road side during the first part of the jour- 
ney, where brackish water, filled with animalcule, could be ob- 
tained from stagnant pools, but the last four leagues was a barren 
travesiaj and utterly without water. The heat of the sun, toward 
mid-day, was intense, and my legs became perfectly worn out with 
incessant spurring, and my arm with the use of the whip, while 
my conscience smote me at every leap of the poor jaded horse, 
whose panting breath, reeking sides, and bloody flanks, shewed 
how cruelly he suffered. I could not, however, but push on at 
all hazards. I had embarked on a devil's drive, and I must need 
follow my leaders, who were spurring and whipping in advance, 
little reeking how much the poor beasts suffered, or even if they 
lived longer than the time sufficient to finish the post. Within 
some two leagues of the next post we caught a view of the level 
plain extending to San Luis, and abutting upon the mountain be- 
yond it, and which, viewed through the haze occasioned by the 
intense heat of the sun beating upon the dry plains, appeared 
from the partial elevation on which we were riding, like a vast 
expanse of water. To add to our annoyance our thirst became 
excessive, promoted alike by the heat, and the brackish water 
which we had drank during the day, added to the almost super- 
human exertion, mental and physical, of spurring our jaded beasts; 



Sf34 CHIU AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



and when we rode into tlie post, wbicli we did for the first and 
only time during the whole journey, at a slow trot, the entire 
party, men and animals, were dead beat. I look back to that 
stage with no pleasure, but with pain and regret. Of mj awn 
sufferings and those of my companions I take no account. In 
three hours we were restored, and I have thriven upon my an- 
noyances and deprivations, but my sympathies were strongest for 
the miserable horses, who I very much fear never posted a travel- 
ler over the same or other route again. Being now within thirty 
miles of San Luis, with the prospect of good horses over the next 
stage, we felt authorized to indulge in a siesta ; so, after eating- 
some peaches, and drinking as much, indeed more, stagnant water 
than we thought prudent, we laid down in company with about a 
dozen lazy, dirty, reckless, but gentlemanly gwachos^ and perhaps 
twice as many dogs, the former and latter being alike kept by the 
owner of the post and grazing farm, to watch his cattle and 
afford them protection against the marauding savages, who occa- 
sionally visit the neighbourhood. The reader may perhaps smile 
at the solecism of a dirty ^ lazy and reckless gentleman^ but I as- 
sure him that there is, under all the roughness of guise, ignorance 
of book-learning, and the more refined customs of society, an 
intrinsic politeness, ease, unassuming independence, conjoined 
with a courtesy and kindness to those who require it which would 
distinguish the rude herdsman of the plain as having all the more 
necessary attributes of gentility. The learned geologist, Darwin, 
had his attention called to this peculiarity of the guachos^ during 
his journeys on the eastern border of these plains, and remarks, 
in his "Journal of a Naturalist," that, though a gnacho may rob you, 
or cut your throat, he always appears to be the gentleman. The 
probability of cutting throats, or even robbery, I look upon as 
extremely remote ; for, though cruel to animals, and to his enemies 
in battle, particularly in the civil wars which have so frequently 
prevailed in this unfortunate country, he will seldom murder, and 
still more seldom rob. In personal quarrels they use their knives, 
which is, notwithstanding the opinions of our bull-dog progenitors, 



A GALLOP ACROSS THE PAMPAS. 235 



more respectable and more gentlemanly tlian their mode of de- 
facino: G-od's ima^e with their fists, the art of doino; which with 
perfect impunity is absurdly styled '' the noble science of self- 
defence," When men have in reality injuries to avenge, let it be 
done with deadly weapons, which will prevent the necessity of fre- 
quent recurrence to it ; and no skill in the use of the knife or 
pistol can give rise to so great an inequality as exists between the 
practiced pugilist, and the tyro, whose sufferings, however great, 
only excite the mirth of a brutal mob in that country to which 
this noble art is almost exclusively confined. During my journeys 
I met very few knaves who were not foreigners, or who had not 
foreign blood in their veins, and I would infinitely rather trust my 
life or property in the hands of thegn^acho of the plains than in the 
hands of the same number of Mr. Darwin's countrymen or my own, 
chosen from the same walk in life. After an hour's siesta^ we 
mounted, about 3 p.m., to finish our day's journey^ and prosecuted 
it with renewed vigour in the cool evening breeze, and with well 
fed horses under saddles. The country was generally covered 
with bushes, the soil sterile and occasionally sandy. Until near 
our journey's end we saw but two habitations, both of them suf- 
ficiently miserable in appearance. At one I stopped and asked 
for water, which was served me in the shell of a cocoa-nut by a 
young girl, quite as lightly clad, as dirty, and yet as pretty as she 
whom we met in the morning at Disaguadero. Our landmark was 
still the peak of San Luis, and having approached to within a few 
miles of it we suddenly discovered the steeple of the church as 
the sun was setting. It was just growing dark as we galloped 
through the street to the foiida^ having accomplished in three 
stages about one hundred and &ve miles. ^ As we expected to 
remain over one day I determined to live at the fonda in prefer- 
ence to residing at the domicile selected by friend Antonio, who 
I was fearful might look more closely to economy than to clean- 
liness and comfort, though, by so doing I incurred the expense 
upon my own account. 

* One hundred and fourteen, according: to Sir Francis Head. 



^Sa CHILI AKD THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES, 



Althougli I had been led to expect something better than usual 
from the San Luis Fonda, I was agreeably surprised at the supe- 
rior cleanliness and comfort to anything which I had seen on this 
side of the mountains, a diSerence perhaps attributable to the 
fact that the owner, who was now absent, was a Frenchman. The 
house was well-built of adobes and whitewashed, having a paved 
court-yard within, on which the rooms of the guests were situ- 
ated. As is almost invariably the custom, a ^id;pericb^ or grog- 
shop, formed a part of the establishment, and faced upon the 
street, which, in addition to a rickety billiard-table, kept the 
public rooms filled with idlers until a late hour of the night. 
Having been shown to my room, and given an affirmative answer 
to the inquiry as to whether I would sup, I called upon the old 
Vizcaino^ who superintended the establishment, for water, and ob- 
tained, to my great satisfaction, a goblet filled with some as sweet 
and clear as if drawn from a mountain stream, and entirely free 
from saline taste. This was the first really good water I had 
drank since leaving Villa Vicencio ; and those only who hnvo 
subsisted some ten days upon water which always had a taste 
more or less brackish, can appreciate how I revelled in the lux- 
ury. In connection with the quality of water, invariably asso- 
ciated by the vulgar with disease, it may not be inappropriate 
to mention that I saw no instance of goitre in San Luis. After 
my supper, which consisted of pieces of beef roasted in that pe- 
culiar form, known as junks by our maritime fellow-citizens, and 
the almost constant casuela^ I retired to my room to solace my- 
self in quiet with the traveller's staple, a cigar, but soon found 
myself interrupted by a half dozen of visitors, who hearing of the 
arrival of a stranger travelling post — who always possesses a cer- 
tain amount of consequence in a small town — came to pay their 
compliments. Among these were three foreigners, a German, an 
Italian, and a Spanish Basque ; the former was the principal 
spokesman, and taking the initiative, informed me that he had 
come out from Europe as a superintendent of a glass work to 
have been established in Santiago, but which failed on account of 



A GALLOP ACROSS THE PAMPAS. ^37 



the want of action on the part of the Chilian government. He 
also stated that he had recently visited California, and little sus- 
pecting that I had just arrived from that part of the world, un- 
suspiciously answered my questions, and gave an elaborate des- 
cription of places which never existed except in his fertile imagi- 
nation. He and the Basque were about to visit Buenos Ayres, 
on the horses of the latter, from whence he had promised to obtain 
funds from divers commercial houses, and return the favour by 
transporting the latter to the land of gold. 

With the intention of giving the Basque an insight into his true 
character, but without openly proclaiming him an impostor, by 
letting it be known that I had been in California, I questioned him 
so closely that he avoided me ever after during my stay in San 
Luis. 

When I saw him again, some weeks had elapsed, and some 
hundreds of miles been traversed by each of us, and he was fly- 
ing from the same Basque, whom he had cheated of his money 
and robbed of his horses. 



11 



CHAPTER XY. 



SAN LITIS. 



March 17.— Breakfasted about 11 a. m., and finding the 
heat too great for a comfortable walk, I remained in the fondob 
until evening, when I called at the government house to have my 
passport '' ^'isee^." The troops stationed at the door had neither 
the brigandish air of those of Mendoza, nor were they so uncivil 
and exacting. I passed in freely without a devisa^ to which no 
allusion was made during my stay, and I even saw a man with a 
full beard, a strong evidence of the liberality of the authorities. 
The officials, the most important of whom was the Minister, or 
Secretary of State of the province, were courteous. Having 
performed this duty, 1 took a walk through the city to observe it 
and the people, who were generally seated at their doors enjoying 
the cool air of the evening. It is regularly laid out in sqaares, 
the houses of one story, in some cases tiled and whitewashed, but 
more generally thatched, and the natural colour of the adobe. 
As in Mendoza, gardens are generally attached to the houses, 
which being surrounded by a sombre clay wall, gives to the streets 
a dry and arid appearance, not out of character with the tempe- 
rature of the place. The floors of the houses are of pounded 
clay, or half-burnt tiles, productive alike of coolness and dirt. 
The sidewalks of the more conspicuous streets are rudely paved, 
while the centre is deep with dust or mud, according to the hu- 



SAN LUIS. 239 



midity of the atmosphere. One ehiirch, the barracks, govern- 
ment offices, and prison, iasignificant edifices, are all the public 
buiidiDgs which San Luis contains. It has numerous small shops 
for the supply of its inhabitants and people of the adjoining coun- 
try, which have an average capital, as I was informed, of about 
one thousand five hundred dollars, although their display would 
seldom indicate a stock of more than two hundred dollars. The 
number of inhabitants is about one thousand, and that of the 
Province twenty-five thousand. The latter contains some mines 
of copper, and washings of gold, neither of which appear to be 
productive, and although horned cattle and horses are as abun- 
'dant as usual in these plains, the principal source of wealth and 
almost the only export is wool, which is exchanged in Buenos 
Ayres for European goods and specie. What dried fruits are 
to Mendoza, wool is to San Luis, The price of wool is about 
four reals per arroba, and its transportation to Buenos Ayres, 
where its average price is about two dollars, is about five reals. 
The hire of a cart to the same place is one hundred dollars, or 
fifty dollars less than from Mendoza. The merchants or shop- 
keepers are not only the elite^ but almost the only capitalists. 
Little wholesale or retail business is done on credit. 

The people of San Luis are less religious than in Mendoza, 
which is the only city in South America where I have seen the 
shops generally closed on Sunday. There are no doctors, and the 
health of the people is generall}^ good. Whether the want of 
medical men is a cause or effect, I will not pretend to decide. 
In the course of the evening I made the acquaintance of a tole- 
rably intelligent Cordovese^ the owner of a shop and dealer in 
wool, who had formerly lived in Buenos Ayres, and was one of 
the few in the city who had a definite idea of the country to which 
I belonged. The people of the '' great model republic" will not 
perhaps feel much complimented when told that in the interior of 
South America, in the heart of those republics to which we have 
given birth by our example, the body of the people are not aware 
of our existence, an i the nearest approach to attaining a recog- 



24d CHILI AND THE ,\KGENT1NE PROVINCES. 



nition of our nationality h to be termed Auiericunos Ingleses, or 
English Americans. 

This gentleman passed the evening with me and gave me a 
portion of the information here transcribed, the accuracy of which 
I haye no reason to doubt, as much of it was substantiated by 
others. 

March IS. — Unable to set out, as the courier was detained 
by the governor in order to conxey dispatches to Buenos Ay res, 
and my movements were of course governed by his. I confess I 
was somewhat restive, but unfortunately there was no remedy, 
and I resigned myself with as good a grace as possible to the un- 
utterable dulness of a South American inland town. To-day, I 
met 2L peon in the Pidjperia^ who informed me that he had been 
hired by a conn try man of mine to convey him fl-om Mendoza to 
Valparaiso the year before, and was loud in his eulogiums upon 
his endurance, good nature, enterprise, the extent of his scientific 
knowledge and his generosity ; he pronounced him to be iin joveii 
viuy guafo. 

In the evening my Cordovese friend called again and kindly 
offered to introduce me to some of the haut ton of San Luis, an 
offer which in my utter want of occupation, 1 of course did not 
decline. The house which we first visited, though pertaining to 
a leading fashionable fanjily, was by no means richly, or even 
comfortably furnished. The bare walls of a large room scantily 
colonized by a few rickety-looking chairs, which I shrewdly sus- 
pected of being countrymen, though I had too much tact to 
recognise them in their misfortunes, presented by no means a 
'' brilliant tcvi ensemble.'''^ for a fashionable residence. In addi- 
tion to the furniture already specified, there was a small table, 
on which were placed a pair of tallow candles, whose faint and 
flickerinc' ii^ht rrave a crloomv and cavernous air to the whole 
apartment, which was made more obvious instead of being re- 
lieved by a small piece of carpet which covered the tiled floor 
immediately in its vicinity. The cheerless aspect of the room, 
however, was soon relieved by the entrance of the two ladies of 



SAX LUIS. '4Ai 



the family, siiters, who were well-dressedj well-bred, showy, and 
tolerably good-looking. It was proposed to visit some other fam- 
ilies for the purpose of introducing me, and in setting off, I inad- 
vertently made a mistake by usurping the place of the husband, 
when I thought I had the unmarried sister, which error the lady 
herself corrected. Customs vary, thou^^ht I, as I changed with 
him, and returned him his wife, whose society he appreciated the 
more as he had just been released from six months' imprisonment, 
and was still confined to the limits of the city for the share he 
had taken in a recent revolution. The philosophical and good- 
natured manner in which be alluded to it showed that his pun- 
ishment had fallen lishtlv uDon him, or that he had extraordinary 
command over his feelings. 

At the first house we visited, we fjund a gentleman with his 
wife whom he had recently married at the village of Achiras, and 
her sister, the wedding party having tarried here on their way to 
Mendoza, where he resided. It was not until I had been some 
time in conversation with him, that I learned he was an Ameri- 
can, and a native of Xew York, whence he had strayed off into 
this remote region with a recklessness to the ties of country to 
which I have had occasion to allude before as too characteristic 
of our countrymen. His career is not an uncommon one. He was 
a printer, and went to the coast of Peru in one of our sloops of 
war, where he left, as he says, with the permission of the captain, 
and established a small printing pres«?. He prospered for the 
time, but losins: his monev, eventually found his wav to Tvlendoza, 
where for a time he was employed in the peculiarly national occu- 
pation of teaching a school. Having made himself useful to the 
authorities as a printer, he again got in advance of the world, 
sent home for some inferior printing presses which he disposed of 
advantageously to the Provincial governments, and was now suf- 
ficiently wealthy to indulge in the luxury of a wife. 

Leaving my coimtryman and his newly acquired family, for it 
appears that maiden sisters are appendages also on the plains, we 
visited another house where we found two young ladies who grati- 



242 CxHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



fied us with some music, accompanyiug themselves on the guitar 
The songs were all national, and so peculiarly plaintive that I 
could almost imagine it a dirge over their unfortunate and dis- 
tracted country. There are no pianos here, and no Italian 
music ; refinement in that respect as well as some others has 
marched through San Luis, on its way to Mendoza, without halt- 
ing. The standard cause of complaint among the ladies here as 
elsewhere in the Argentine Provinces, is want of beaux ; war, and 
its attendant proscription, and emigration, having thinned off 
the young men. On this subject I obtained from my lady friends 
statistics upon which the reader may confidently rely. In the 
city of San Luis, containing one thousand inhabitants, there are 
only ten eligible young men ! And ladies '' oh Diosay muchas .'" i 
which would certainly make it a somewhat desirable place to hang 
up one's hat, as political economy teaches that commodities are 
valued less in proportion to their intrinsic value than their scar- 
city. At a late hour we returned whence we had started with 
our lady friends, and after hearing from them a song or two, I 
retired to mj fonda with the pleasing consciousness of being able 
to number among my acquaintances some of the haut ton of San 
Luis. 

March 19. — Courier still delayed, which I resented by abusing 
the Provincial Government of San Luis most heartily, without 
heeding the warning shrugs of my acquaintances. Another 
stupid day in this stupid village. It was really too provoking, 
and though quite as patient a man as the patriarch Job, (see the 
account given by his biographer,) I was annoyed exceedingly 
with this additional delay and fear. I expressed my impatience 
in a manner which was neither complimentary to San Luis, its 
governor, or its inhabitants. There was no remedy, however, 
but to murder the day by eating, drinking, smoking, and the 
eternal siesta^ which lasts longer in this city than in others which 
I have visited during my journeys. Captain Marryatt defining 
the word siesta in one of his novels, speaks of it as a short nap 
after dinner, and makes the difference be">ween a siesta and a 



SAN LUIS. 243 



snooze to consist in the first being a nap enjoyed by the rich or 
refined, and the latter that of a poor man. As a siesta is taken 
in San Luis, the word snooze or nap will by no means give a fair 
and correct idea of the luxury, for instead of throwing oneself 
carelessly down to catch a few moments' refreshing repose, beds 
are brought out into the most airy situations, clothes are taken 
ofi", houses and stores are closed, and for some three hours the 
whole city is like one of the dead. Even dogs, cats, horned 
cattle, and horses, seem to take the infection, and doze away 
quietly the warmer hours of the day. In San Luis, during siesta, 
the only sign of animal activity is displayed by those incorrigible 
domestic tormentors, the house-flies, and I prayed at times most 
heartily that the rod of Somnus might bewitch them also into 
the universal lethargy. After the world in San Luis had awak- 
ened from their siesta of this afternoon, my friend Mendoza the 
Cordovese came to invite me to a tertulia to be given by the 
relatives of the ladies with whom we had passed the previous 
evening ; an invitation not to be refused, as my acceptance would 
serve not only to while away the tedious hours of my stay, but 
would also give me a still better insight into the state of society 
in this primitive little city. 

• Upon our arrival at the house, which was a short distance out 
of town, we found the party, which consisted of some twenty-four 
or thirty women, and about half as many men, assembled, and 
received, not only from the host and hostess, but from the guests 
generally, a cordial welcome. The young men present belonged 
either to the army or national guard, and were all dressed in red 
jackets and white trowsers, which gave a lively air to the assem- 
blage. Contrary to what would be the custom in our own coun- 
try, this gayety of apparel was confined exclusively to the sterner 
sex. as a more plainly and indeed worse-dressed set of women I 
have never met elsewhere. The mantua-makers, like the musi- 
cians, on their way to Mendoza had evidently made no tarry in 
San Luis. Though not accustomed generally to observe very 
closely the raiment of the fair sex, and still less — heaven fore- 



244 CHILI AND THE AKGENTINE PROVINCES, 



fend — to criticise, there was something irresistibly comic in the 
short waists and consequently long skirts, the round shoulders 
and flat chests, in producing which there was evidently some me- 
chanical agency. Their whole appearance suggested the idea of 
a stag dance, and the impression that the ladies were so many 
troopers in disguise; and more than once I found myself instinc- 
tively trying to catch a glimpse of their feet, expecting, perchance, 
to see a boot and spur beneath their long skirts. Wherever it has 
been my fortune ta wander, I have never found women less grace- 
fully dressed, except, perhaps, among the Sandwich Islanders, who 
have abandoned their native costume and adopted the European. 
Among the whole company assembled, there were no beauties, 
and very few who could be even called good-looking. Some few 
pairs of fine eyes ; but that was all, and my kind chaperons of the 
previous evening, though they did not by any means look so well 
in the bright glare of the tallow candles as they had done in the 
dim twilio^ht in which I had before viewed them, were bv odds 
the prettiest women in the house. As a stranger I was kindly 
received and the lion of the evening, the men individually and 
collectively insisting upon pledging me in cana^ while some of the 
damsels — the proposition having originated with the other sex — 
offered to indoctrinate me into the mysteries of a minuet and the 
mazes of the waltz. The music was a guitar, frequently accom- 
panied by the voice, while the dances consisted of minuets^ in 
capital keeping, by the way, with the short waists and long skirts, 
contra dances, waltzes, and occasionally the national Soynia Ciuca 
and the Gato (cat.) In dancing the latter, castanets were fre- 
quently imitated by the fingers, and added not a little to the ex- 
hilaration of the amusement. Between each dance the men gen- 
erally indulged themselves in a little cana^ which was invariably 
shared with the uninvited guests collected around the door, and 
enjoying an outside view of the festivity. 

As it began to wax late, I thought the effects of the cana be- 
came somewhat obvious, not to intoxication, but to exhilaration ; 
and before breaking up, some one proposed the dance of the 



SAN LUIS. 245 



viejaSj (the old women.) and with a shout each man jumped for- 
ward, and selected as a partner the oldest woman he could find, 
the older in such case the better. For some minutes it was one 
of the most diverting scenes I have witnessed, and though some 
resisted stoutly, especially those who were very fat, the music was 
loudly called for amid shouts of laughter, and after another at- 
tempt to escape, in which, however, none were successful, up 
struck the guitar, accompanied by the voices of nearly all the 
young men in the room, off went the persecuted old ladies, who 
laughing at each other's antics, soon forgot the compulsion, and 
capered away with as hearty a good will as if it were not an 
amusement which they had abandoned some thirty or forty years 
before. 

This dance, and accompanying jests, finished the evening's 
amusements, and we set out for home, the ladies being escorted 
by the gentlemen in a mass to their domiciles, and preceded by 
female servants with lanterns. On our way I was entertained by 
a long dissertation from the ladies upon the general want of gay- 
ety in San Luis, which was attributed, by them, to the character 
of the governor, who held all kinds of festivity in utter aversion. 
The men prudently said little, although they doubtless accorded 
in the views of the other sex, thus showing that in this country, 
as in many others, there is a greater license for the female tongue 
than the male. 

March 20. — Still delayed by the Governor. Breakfasted, dined, 
and took a siesta.^ the only occurrence worthy of note being that 
of having breakfasted on some fresh fish which were brought 
during the night from the Bevedero, a lake some twenty-five 
leagues south of San Luis. At dusk, the arrival of a traveller 
with a ^eon and baggage mule, broke into the ordinary routine of 
the fonda. The influence of provincialism is very great, as even 
I felt some curiosity to know who he might be, and for the attain- 
ment of information upon the subject, I sent for the ^lajor Domo, 
who was quite as ignorant as myself. He could not be any great 
things, however, was the sage remark of this personage, as he 



246 



CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



had little luggage, and came on mules little larger than rats. 
Among all the arbitrary distinctions which society makes amongst 
men, I had never before known a man's consequence to be 
measured by the size of his mule, although, I doubt not, it is 
quite as rational as many others more in vogue. 

March 21. — With no small satisfaction, I learned we would 
certainly leave on to-morrow morning, as independent of being 
perfectly bored by my protracted residence in a small town, I 
was somewhat fearful that I might arrive in Rio too late to meet 
the " Lexington." After breakfast, the Major Domo informed me 
that my fellow traveller was a Pole, and a fire-king^ who had 
come to San Luis for the purpose of giving its inhabitants an 
exhibition of his powers in that line, as, also, in feats of strength. 
Learning that he spoke English, and being 2i fire-king^ moreover, 
myself^ I determined to call upon him and learn how he had wan- 
dered into this remote region, and what was the course of travel 
he had marked out for the future. I found him a man very like 
those of his adventurous class, all the world over, and really felt 
my heart warm toward him, when I learned that he had not 
only passed several years in the United States, but had even in 
the course of his wanderings passed some days in my own little 
town, Springfield, Ohio."^ 

Community of language in a strange country ^oon makes men 
singularly confidential ; and before we had been acquainted an 
hour, he informed me that his finances were at dead low water 
mark ; iu fact, that he had not one real ia the world, and that he 
owed, beside, an ounce to the ^eon^ who had brought him and his 
scanty baggage from San Juan. I gave him sufficient money to 
relieve his immediate and pressing necessities, when he left me to 
ask permission from the Governor to perform in the city. In 
the evening, about dusk, I agaiu met him, and, although, he had 
obtained the necessary permission, he was by no means sanguine 
of success ; and having entered into some abstruse mathematical 

^ On shores unknown, in distant worlds, how sweet 
The kindred tongue, the kindred face to meet. — Lusiad, Book 7. 



SAN LUIS. 247 



calculations upon the subject, had arrived at the conclusion that 
the population of San Luis was insufficient to pay the necessary 
expenses of the entertainment, and liquidate the expenses 
already incurred. The truth of his premises I could not deny, 
and having received his solemn assurance that he could ride well, 
was hardy, and accustomed to fatigue, ojffared to pay his liabili- 
ties, and take him with me to Buenos Ayres, where he assured 
me that a single performance would enable him to return the 
money, or, indeed, that he could obtain an advance from the 
manager of the theatre. As it was now dark, and our time lim- 
ited, I stopped his protestations of gratitude, and making him 
accompany me, called in person upon the Governor, an ignorant, 
good-natured old man, and asked him as a favour, that a pass- 
port should be expedited, which he, after some abortive attempts 
at a joke upon the profession of m.j jprotege^ ordered the Secre- 
tary of State to make out. For this, coming as it did directly 
from head-quarters, no charge was made, but, unfortunately, 
while it was being written, the Administrador of the Correo 
(postal establishment) came in and claimed his bonus of a quarter 
of an ounce for the privilege of travelling post. As I had not 
been obliged to pay this sum, I made some objections, and even 
attempted to awaken the dormant generosity of the official, by in- 
forming him of the fire king's want of finances, in which I was sig- 
nally unsuccessful, as he understood perfectly, that if he had no 
money I would be obliged to pay ; and looking upon me as a fool 
quite willing to part with my money, had no intention of losing 
his share. I next visited my friend and companion, Don Anto- 
nio, informing him that I had taken a new travelling companion, 
whose food and horse hire I would pay for, while I trusted to his 
liberality toward a destitute man in a strange country, to make 
no charge for the privilege of accompanying him on the journey. 
He conceded with a very bad grace; and with divers ominous 
shrugs and shakes of the head, declared that I was only too kind- 
hearted, and would be certain to be imposed upon. As, however, 
I was a good customer, had paid liberally down on the nail, was 



24B CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



a tolerably good companion on the road, and owned two very 
fine blaakets of which he held a sort of prospective possession, 
he could not well refuse, but gave his consent under a formal 
protest^ which he put on the ground of regard for my interests, 
and not his own, though, I presume, the latter were those 
which were most closely considered. Every thing now being 
arranged for an early departure, I returned to the fonda^ and 
after paying the peon who had brought my protege to this place, 
called for my own bill with a gusto which shewed how much 
rejoiced 1 was to move my head-quarters from his respectable but 
quiet city. The keeper of the fonda^ however, appeared deter- 
mined, also, to share in the plunder of the " Gringo ^'^'^ and upon 
giving in his bill made divers charges for imaginary articles, for 
which I briefly told him that I would not pay one single quar- 
tillo. He also charged me for board at the rate of one dollar a 
day, while the regular price was seventy-five cents, a fact to 
which the Pole called my attention, and upon enquiry as to the 
reason of this difference between the latter and myself, there not 
having been the slightest difference in our fare or rooms, he 
informed me that his charges were conforme — conformable — to 
the rank and position of the individual, and that he could not 
think of charging a gentleman who travelled post, only the same 
price that he exacted from a wandering mountebank who rode on 
little rats of mules, and they hired at that. Not feeling in the 
most amiable mood, I refused to recognize the force of this logic, 
although tolerably well accustomed to its practice in my inter- 
course with tailors and others in my own country. I was resolute 
in '* cutting the account," as the Chinese call it, and generously 
paid him the difference in advice, with which, to tell the truth, I 
interlarded an occasional good old Anglo-Saxon imprecation, by 
way of relieving my mind. 

The annoyances and responsibilities of the day having termi- 
nated, I retired to my bed, advising the Pole to follow my exam- 
ple, which, however, he did not see fit to do so, as I learned in 
the morning that he had spent the night in the profitable employ* 



SAN LUIS. 249 



ment of gambling with the jpeon^ which convinced me that he 
had either deceived me, at first, as to the amount of his funds, 
or that in collusion with the 'peon^ he had deceived me as to the 
amount due to the latter. The prospects were certainly not aus- 
picious, but my only chance to have my money returned was to 
continue my protection, and, if possible, get him to Buenos 
Ayres. 



CHAPTER XVL 



A GALLOP ACROSS THE PAMPAS. 



March 22. — Soon after daylight, I was called by the courier, 
who had brought up the horses, and soon after the Fire-King en- 
tered with an expression of countenance which indicated a sleep- 
less night, with an accompaniment of some potent excitement, 
either that of gambling or cana, and probably both. I was now 
in for it, however, and coDcealing my annoyance, quietly mounted 
my horse, affecting not to observe the knowing winks of Don An- 
tonio, who rejoicing in his superior sagacity, was now enjoying a 
triumph over his extensively travelled and better educated, but 
credulous comjpanero. It is thus, too frequently, that credulous 
liberality is made the butt of a pretended sagacity which has its 
origin in an intrinsic want of noble sentiments ; yet a person im- 
posed upon, his philosophy and better convictions to the contrary 
notwithstanding, feels almost as much mortification at the ridicule 
which may result from his amiable credulity, as if he were ac- 
cused of a dishonorable action. 

Such was the tenor of my thoughts, and such my feelings as I 
avoided the furtive and sly glances of Antonio and the postilion 
while riding through the yet deserted streets of San Luis. For 
a mile or two, the ground was somewhat broken and covered with 
brushes, but after crossing a stream of clear water, which had its 
origin in the mountains, now close to us on our left, we emerged 
into the open plains, where 1 again heard the cheering cry,'/' Fuego 
al Campo," and in the excitement attendant on being once more 



A GALLOP ACROSS THE PAMPAS. 251 



on my way, at a rapid gallop, soon forgot my vexation, and could 
almost forgive Antonio and the mountebank all the annoyances 
which they had caused me. Our pace was sufficiently rapid, and 
I saw plainly that the horsemanship of the latter was under test, 
a circumstance which I regretted the less as I felt that if unable 
to proceed, the sooner I became aware of it the better. A few 
leatyues onlv brought him some miles behind, and at about half- 
way to the next stage, we were obliged to stop and await his com- 
ing up, which he did eventually, tolerably well blown, and in no 
very agreeable humour. We did not give him much time to 
rest, but warning him that he must keep up, set off again, the 
rest of us arrivino; at the end of our stacre about 11 o'clock, he 
beino; out of sio:ht astern. Determinino: to srive him a chance to 
recuperate, we ordered breakfast, and awaited his arrival, which, 
at length, took place, when we found him nearly dead beat, and 
in a most captious mood at the results of his attempts to ride 
post. Like all persons similarly circumstanced, he wished to put 
the blame upon any one but himself, and was loud in his invec- 
tives against the horse, the postilion, and Don Antonio, whom he 
had observed looked upon him with no partial eye. He declared 
at once his inability to proceed, and threw himself doggedly on 
the floor of the hut, and in reply to my question whether he had 
not assured me that he could ride, answered pettishly that so he 
could ; but what man in his sober senses ever heard of travelling 
fifteen leagues at a gallop } For his comfort I hinted that dis- 
pensing with his excesses of last night, he would have been fresher 
this morning, and that we would give him some three or four 
hour's rest, as we had only one more stage of nine leagues to make 
before sleeping, but that if he were not ready to depart at that 
time, I would leave him where he then was and give myself no 
farther concern about him. The latter hint was not without its 
effect, and after about four hour's rest, during which Don A. and 
myself had our usual siestas, and our breakfast of casuela^ which 
he refused to partake, he announced himself, though certainly 
not in the most cheerful manner, as ready for the next stage. 



5^52 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROTINCES. 



The post at wliich we stopped was that of Rio Quinto, so called 
from a clear and pleasant stream of good watei which flowed near 
it, after passing which, and filling our chifres in anticipation of 
some nine leagues without that necessary beverage, we ascended 
a swell in the Pampa, from which looking over a flat, and appa- 
rently perfectly level plain, we obtained a view of the mountain 
of San Jose de Moro, which was to be the terminus of our day's 
journey. We were now in a portion of country subject to the 
"raids" or forays of the mounted Indians, where, it was neces- 
sary to keep a bright look out during the day, and by no mea ns 
safe to sleep, except in the mud forts which protect the greater 
number of the post houses. In the morning the courier had ad- 
vised me of the probable danger, as the savages were known to 
be in the vicinity of the settlements, having made a descent in 
this immediate neighbourhood some two weeks before, and asked 
me to notify him of every living object which I might, with my 
superior powers of vision, discover on the horizon. He also en- 
lightened me as we galloped along, upon some of his hair-breadth 
escapes, which might perhaps have produced some anxiety, had 
the narration taken place at night ; but who could feel fear in the 
broad light of heaven, with a good horse, a pair of good pistols, 
and a visible horizon of several miles ? When Indians are dis - 
covered in the plains, the probabilities of escape depends upon 
the fleetness of the horses, as the traveller attempts to reach the 
nearest town or post house, where if the latter be walled, as is 
generally the case, he is comparatively safe. Suppose we are 
surprised or overtaken, was my very natural enquiry of Don An- 
tonio. We will be killed if we resist. And if we do not, how 
then ? We will also be killed ; as these Indians seldom save any 
except women, who are carried off as prisoners. To my surprise 
I learned that resistance was rare, and that when escape was im- 
possible, it was the custom to say their prayers, if time were 
allowed, and be butchered peaceably. Now this is all very well 
for the Spanish and their descendants, as they stand hanging, 
shooting, garroting, and having their throats cut, with a resigna- 



A GALLOP ACROSS THE PAMPAS. Q53 



tion and calmness exceeding that of all other nations, civilized oi' 
savage, but it did not, I confess, so full j accord with my Anglo- 
Sason temperament and views. The time for prayers I was will- 
ing to merge, and informed Don Antonio that though willing to 
save my life by abandoning my property, I had no idea of losing 
both without resistance, and supported my intentions so eloquently 
that he agreed to my proposition, and it was solemnly compacted 
between us, the compact being ratified by shaking hands at full 
gallop, that we should sell our lives as dearly as possible, and act 
in concert for the attainment of this end. As the postilion only 
accompanied us from post to post it would have been useless to 
have included him in our arrangement, and to my proposition 
that we should extend it to the Pole, Don Antonio expressed so 
little confidence in his courage or conduct, that I too abandoned 
the idea. That in case of necessity the old man would have ful- 
filled his part of the compact, I have no doubt ; and if before our 
conversation he would have allowed himself to be quietly butch- 
ered, it would not have been for want of physical courage, but 
because it was the '^ costumhre del pais,^'^ custom of the country. 
It was about an hour after dark when we arrived at the little vil- 
lage or fort, at the foot of the mountain of San Jose de Moro, 
whose name it bears, and as there was a mud fort and garl'ison of 
some two hundred soldiers to keep the Indians in check, we felt 
perfectly secure ; and after satisfying our hunger on some beef 
hastily roasted on the embers, we made our beds in the open air 
in front of the post house, and were soon oblivious to all danger 
from Indians, and all the inconveniences of the road. 

The Pole, though complaining, had borne the afternoon ride 
better than I had anticipated, and having now brought him some 
seventy-two miles under unfavourable circumstances, I anticipated 
no difficulty in conveying him to Buenos Ayres. 

March 23. — At an early hour the indefatigable Don Antonio 

roused me from my pleasant slumbers to enjoy m.j matte ; bat 

delayed, as it appeared to me, unnecessarily, the hour of starting. 

In answer to my queries on this subject, he acknowledged himself 

12 



254 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



averse to leaving the post until the night patrol of cavalry had 
returned to report the Pam/pas clear of Indians, who in South as 
well as North America, faithful to their tactics or instinct, gene- 
rally make their attacks about daylight, when civilized and en- 
lightened men in all countries are generally enjoying their sound- 
est repose. Anxious to proceed when once aroused, I prevailed 
upon him to saddle up, and at early daylight, mounted on spirited 
and fresh horses, we galloppeiout of the village of San Jose de 
Moro before the cornets of the garrison had sounded the reveille. 
The next stage being but seven leagues, we did not spare our 
horses ; and at an hour still early, as compared with my habits 
as I transcribe this narrative, arrived at the post of Portozuelo, 
so called from the fact that at this point the road tends through 
a very narrow valley, bounded on each side by hills of moderate 
height, through which the rock cropped out over the thin stratum 
of soil which partially covered it. On our way we met several 
lancers, who were slowly returning from the post which they had 
occupied as videttes during the night, to watch against a sudden 
attack from the Indians, whose recent visit had caused an unusual 
vigilance on the part of the garrison. 

While changing horses we conversed with several guacJios and 
their wives and daughters, who for some reason had thus early 
collected at this post, and the conduct of the former having been 
so friendly in assisting to select and saddle my horse, I would 
have returned their hospitality by '' entreating them kindly" 
through the medium of my chifre of Aguardiente^ had not the 
prudent Antonio with that knowing wink common to all lan- 
guages, reminded me that we were already on the confines of the 
province of Cordova, which in exercise of its authority, as a sover- 
eign and independent state, (the only instance of its exercise 
which ever came under my notice) had prohibited the sale of 
spirits within its borders. 

So mounting my horse with a Vayanse con Dios, senores^^ my 
blessing, I departed with the full locomotive energies of a fresh 
horse, though I doubt me greatly whether with such cordial good 

=^ God be wuth you, gentlemen. 



A GALLOP ACROSS THE PAMPAS. 255 



wishes from the party, as if I had carried mj first intention into 
effect, and given them a spiritual, instead of a verbal blessing. 

A short distance of stouy road, an antique randio^ which had 
been deserted on account of danger from Indians, and a small 
rivulet of good fresh water, alone marked the transition from the 
independent Federated Province of San Luis to that of Cordova. 
The village of Achiras was distant from Portozuelo about five 
leagues, and the heat was already great before we reached its 
neighbourhood, where we exchanged our horses in a fine garden 
filled with fruit trees, and cooled by a small stream which irri- 
gated it. 

The family to whom this charming shady retreat and the ad- 
joining ruined hut belonged, were present in the garden to collect 
the fruit, though fear of the Indians prevented their remaining 
there during the night. Having refreshed ourselves with a break- 
fast of milk, fruit, and cheese, and saddled up our new horses, 
we set out, and in a few minutes arrived at the village of Achiras, 
a curious place after its kind, and meriting at least a cursory de- 
scription. It consisted of some fifty or sixty habitations built of 
clay, not whitewashed, and surrounded by a wall of the same 
material, about twelve feet hi^h. The streets were at rio^ht 
angles, and being unusually free from the incursions of the un- 
clean beast and the dog, were comparatively clean and well kept. 
The wall which surrounded this snuo- and isolated village was 
built, as nearly as I could estimate, on a square ; and as the 
houses rose a little above it, performed an important part in giv- 
ing character to the village. A huge wooden gate fronting the 
road would have been bolted had it been evening, when the inha- 
bitants of Achiras, feeling within their oAohe walls a security 
against the predatory savage, who frequently ranges their plains, 
can peacefully smoke their cigaritos, drink their viatte^ and enjoy 
each other's society. 

It was in this small village that my friend, the American printer, 
whom I encountered in San Luis, had married. I availed myself 
of the acquaintance to visit the house, and found, that though the 



256 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



bride and her sister were not particularly beautiful, everything 
pleasing or desirable had been removed from the domicile. As I 
sat for a minute on an earthern seat, which the ingenuity of the 
architect had constructed in a corner, and peered curiously 
throuo;h the darkness at the bareness of the mud walls without 
ornament, the mud floors without covering, the rooms generally 
more innocent of furniture than dirt, my thoughts recurred to the 
boasts made by my friend of hrs ancient Knickerbocker origin, 
and wondered what would be the impressions of his thrifty and 
tidy mamma, Der Goote Fravj^ could she see the hovel from 
which he had chosen his wife. However, similia similibus cib- 
rantur^ and he will doubtless be cured of all disagreeable remem- 
brances by keeping a house of his own in the same neglige and 
untidy manner; for, as I have before had occasion to remark, our 
countrymen abroad rapidly assimilate themselves to the customs 
of the country which they inhabit. 

A ten minutes' stay sufficed me ; and I again mounted and 
pursued my journey, though ill at ease from the combined effects 
of the milk, jolting on horseback, and the heat of the sun. I 
shrewdly suspected that the unusual weight upon my stomach, 
and heaviness of head, was produced by the milk under this 
churning process, having always been told as a boy that butter 
was unhealthy. Changing horses at Barranquita ojo de Aqua, 
and Arroyifca de Lagunitas, we arrived about 9 p.m. in the city 
of Eio Quarto, having travelled some ninety-six miles since our 
departure from Mono. Upon reaching the post-house, we were 
obliged to assist the Pole to dismount, he having almost entirely 
lost the use of his limbs from riding. As the evening approached 
his denunciations and groans became louder and deeper, until his 
only ambition was to reach the end of the stage, after which he 
invoked the devil to fly away with him if he ever undertook to 
ride post again with a crazy courier and a hair-brained naval 
officer^ who had neither of them the fear of God or a proper re- 
spect for the comfort and safety of their own limbs before their 
eyes. Neither were we unwilling to part company, having already 



A GALLOP ACROSS THE PAMPAS. : 257 



found him to be a decided incubus. Upon entering the principal 
room in the post-house, we found ifc already occupied by several 
travellers, who were laudably comforting themselves with beef and 
brandy after the fatigues of the day ; one, who imm^ediately re- 
cognized me, was the Basque whom I had met at St. Luis, and 
who had proved, as I anticipated, the dupe of the designing Ger- 
man in whose company I met him ; the latter having suddenly 
decamped with two of his horses, and leaving sundry small debts 
for board and advances of money unpaid. Room was speedily 
and courteously made for me at the table, where I found myself 
'' cheek by jowl" with an American mechanic, who, after passing 
several years in Buenos Ayres, was incited by the desire to 
better his fortune by seeking El Dorado of the nineteenth cen- 
tury, which had suddenly become a portion of his own country. 
The evening passed in cheerful conversation, when my country- 
man and myself spread out our saddle clothes and ^onchos^ so as 
to form a double bed ; and thanks to our long ride and freedom 
from care, soon fell asleep, notwithstanding the trumpeting of 
the dozen persons, who conjointly with us occupied the apartment, 
and the piteous groaning of the Pole, who, with the versatility of 
his nation, was bitterly cursing his fate, pressing into service 
with that object all the expletives known to modern European 
languages. 

March 24. — Havino; a letter of introduction to an Eno-lishman 
who kept a small store in Rio Quarto, I determined to deliver it, 
in order to effect some arrangement by which to dispatch my 
Pole to Cordova, where his feats of strength and faculties for 
eating fire might enable him to recruit his finances. The arrange- 
ment was speedily effected, as the distance to Cordova was not 
great, and I took a passage for him in an ox-cart, giving him also 
a sufficiency of money to pay his expenses during the journey.* 

^ It is scarcely necessary to rerrark that the same two-arxd-a half ounces 
which I expended for the " distressed Pole,'' was not paid to the American 
consul according to promise. It is, however, a satisfactory reflection that I 
was neither the first, or by any means the last person imposed upon by un- 
fortunate individuals of that peculiarly unfortunate Sclavonic race 



S58 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



In the public square were some cavalry, practicing with broad- 
sword, in which they displayed no great skill. The garrison of 
the place is about six hundred, and the population some two 
thousand souls. After breakfast the band of the battalion came 
to the door of our fonda^ and saluted us with a few wild and 
noisy airs adapted to their instruments, which were trumpets 
without keys. Their object was attained, as on the same princi- 
ple that we pay organ grinders, our trumpeters were liberally 
bought off. By virtue of some private arrangement with Don 
Antonio, the Basque now joined our party, and continued with us 
to Buenos Ayres. At about 11 a.m., taking leave of my coun- 
tryman, who wished to reach Achiras that evening, and our 
ci devant companion, the Pole, who forced me to go through the 
superfluous formality of taking a receipt for the money I had 
advanced to him, we set out on our journey, and after riding nearly 
one hundred miles, stopped short of the post-house of Tres 
CruceSj where we intended to have stopped, and turning in from 
the road, slept outside of a hut, which was known to the 
postilion. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

THE PAMPAS. 

For divers reasons most satisfactory to myself, I have deter- 
mined, at this point, to conclude my itinerary narrative ; firstly, 
because I cannot hope that its continuance would particularly 
interest any amiable or credulous person, who through kindly 
feeling toward the author, or vague hope of obtaining amusemert 
or valuable information, may be tempted to the perusal of ni 7 
production. Secondly, because having given an account of tlii 
mode of travel in the plains, and a cursory sketch of their inhab- 
itants, there is little of interest to add, as I have been always 
the most unfortunate amono; travellers in freedom from adventu- 
rous and startling incidents ; and thirdly, because I have lost the 
scanty notes which I made at the time, and, although, I have a 
list of the post houses, upon examination cannot make them 
quadrate^ as a notorious naval commander of my acquaintance 
once expressed it, with my own recollections. In general term.s, 
therefore, I will in this chapter give a succinct account of the 
Pampas, and the remainder of my journey across them. 

Passing from the province of Cordova, we entered Santa Fe, 
where as danger existed from the Indians, we slept, whenever it 
was possible, at a fortified post house. The defensive arrange- 
ments of these establishments merits special notice from their singu- 
larity. The house being in the centre of a square, is surrounded 
by a ditch, inside of which is planted, one, two, and sometimes 
hree rows of cactus^ which forms a protection against the foraging; 



260 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES, 



savages, who will never dismount from their horses to remove 
any formidable obstacle. The square is approached by a draw- 
bridge, while the house supplied with loop holes, overtopping the 
wall of cactus^ enables the inhabitants to fire upon the assailants. 
Thus the Indians are generally repelled in their attack upon any 
fortified house, and their successful attacks are generally made 
on isolated houses, which are not defended by either walls of un 
burnt bricks, or cactus. The next day, after leaving Rio 
Quarto, we breakfasted at Fraile Muerto, a town of some two 
thousand inhabitants. On the same afternoon, we met the 
government courier on his way to the Westward, who informed 
me that a post carriage was following behind, containing a Bra- 
zilian and Frenchman. The Brazilian, I was informed, was a 
Mr. Gruimaraes, and having an intimate friend, as well as very 
pleasant casual acquaintance of that name, near Rio de Janeiro, 
I had strong hopes that the stranger might prove to be one or 
the other. We quickened our pace, and instead of the short 
gallop, which was our usual gait, indulged ourselves in a run, in 
order to compensate for our expected delay when we should meet 
the strangers. At length, in the distance, we saw the cloud of 
dust which almost invariably marks and distinguishes the post 
coach, and its four galloping horses, but before we met, I was 
destined again to renew my acquaintance, much against my will, 
with our common mother earth, as my horse stumbling in a 
Bizcacho hole, upon recovering made the sudden leap peculiar to 
guoxho trained horses, to escape the cruel rowels, which invaria- 
bly punish a mishap of this kind. The projectile motion I was 
almost always prepared for while riding across the plains, and 
successfully resisted in this instance ; but quicker than thought, I 
was left face to heaven, and back to the sod, by the unexpected 
movement which succeeded it. My guacho bridle, whose long 
plaited thong serves also for a whip, served me well in this 
emergency, as I still retained the end of it in my hand, and 
was thus enabled to secure my horse. Not having been hurt, 
and anxious to avoid the sly raillery of ray friend, Don Antonio, 



THE PAMPAS. 261 



I immediately attempted to remount, but the saddle turning, I was 
obliged to girt it afresh, and thus found myself some miles be- 
hind my companions, whom I overtook by hard riding before we 
met the coach. A knowing smile and remark upon my dusty 
apparel, showed that I v»^as discovered, and Don Antonio would 
never concede, afterward, that I was exactly, what he called a 
ginelCy or perfect horsemen, though he did me, perhaps, more 
than justice in informing many persons in Buenos Ayres, after 
our arrival, that he had never had a comva^nero before, who was 
not a gvMcho^ who was so hardy as his friend, Don Isac. 

At length, the carriage drew up alongside of us, and, although 
I had not the satisfaction of meeting the friend I expected, I had 
a pleasant conversation with a gentleman of Eio, who shared 
with me many agreeable acquaintances. He informed me, 
that his friends had been very apprehensive for his safety in 
making this journey, having heard much of the dangers from 
Indians, and begged I would call at a certain direction which he 
gave me, and inform them of his safety, and of his having tra- 
versed the most exposed Province of St. Fe. Although I 
afterward lost the address, by dint of inquiries at Rio, I found 
the proper person, whose appreciation of this act of common 
civility, was evinced by divers acts of hospitality during my stay. 

While conversing with Mr. G , I had an opportunity of ex- 

aminino; a Paviva ccach. the first I had seen, and which I would 
be glad to describe, were it not utterly indescribable ; a daguerre- 
otype of one ought to make the exhibitor's fortune in these 
degenerate times ; and failing in a description, I will leave the 
filling up to the imagination of the reader, giving him a clue 
by suggesting as a prototype, a vehicle which might have 
conveyed the family of the patriarch Noah to the ark, prior 
to their embarkation. The harness was quite as primitive, and 
if simplicity and strength be acknowledged to combine all neces- 
sary qualifications, it was perfect. As regards the former, the 
reader's imagination will be much assisted by a visit to Norfolk, 
where the harness and accoutrements of the market carts is even 

12* 



262 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



an exaggeration of that of the Pampas ; but should he have no 
other object in view, I would not by any means coDipromise my- 
self by advising the trip, as I fear greatly, that, however satis- 
factory might be the result, as far as an elucidation of my own 
description is concerned, that the eiitire result would not com- 
pensate for the pains and time employed, unless he should be 
particularly partial to naval officers^ oysters^ and Hag -fish. In 
regard to strength, unlike the Norfolk harness already alluded to, 
there was no deficiency, as it was of green hide of the stoutest 
kind, but secured in the loosest manner to the carriage, neither 
reins, breast straps, or stretchers being used, while the traces 
were single pieces of hide rope secured to the saddle of the pos- 
tilion, who was required for each horse in the absence of reins 
and other appurtenances, to which we are accustomed in countries 
which have made greater progress in the mechanic arts."^ 

This mode of conveyance through the plains possesses advan- 
tao-es for those who are unaccustomed to ridino; on horseback, or 
to the privation of comforts by the way side, as many conveni- 
ences not otherwise attainable, in addition to beddino;, which is 

7 07 

seldom found on the road in South America, may be stowed in 
the carriage. It is, however, slower than riding post, though not 
so much so as might be expected, as the horses are ridden at full 
gallop, and changed as frequently as those of the courier, while 
the time lost at the post house in waiting for horses is no greater, 
as when one is brought in from the plains it is as easy to bring 
in one hundred. The expense is much greater, however, as four 
horses and as many postilions are required, who must be paid at 
the rate of a single one. An upset in a coach is a much more 
probable occurrence than a fall from a horse, my own recent ex- 
perience to the contrary notwithstanding, while there is danger 
of attracting the Indians by the sight of the cloud of dust which 
hangs over the route of a post coach. Single horsemen make 
little dust, and when in the vicinity of Indians, avoid that danger 

'^ Sir Francis Head recommends this mode of harnessing for Light 
Artillery. 



THE PAMPAS. 263 



by keeping off the partially beaten track, and riding on tlie grass. 
After encKarcrino: each other with such messages to the shores of 
the respective oceans, as might be expected from men supposed 
to be embarked in a dangerous enterprise, we took a kindly leave 
of each other, and amid the spurring, cursing, and yelling of the 
postilions, whose uncoupled horses, at starting, expended their 
force in every direction except the right one, our courier shouted 
his old cry, " Fuego al Caiivpo^'^ and before the carriage had got 
fairly under headway, we had galloped more than a mile on our 
journey. Santa Fe, in addition to the danger from Indians, is 
also subject to rains, which caused us to lose the greater part of 
three days, as the courier, notwithstanding my assurances that his 
dispatches were perfectly protected by my clothing, could not be 
induced to take the road. In all the provinces, immense numbers 
of cattle were seen daily ; and at times, particularly in Santa Fe 
and Buenos Ayres, we rode for miles through herds of horned 
cattle and horses, extending as far as the eye could reach in 
every direction. It was only after several days' experience in 
these two provinces that I began to realize the probability of a 
statement which had been made to me by a very intelligent 
Buenos Ayrian official, that in one year 10,000,000 of hides had 
been exported from Buenos Ayres. Considering that, according 
to the census of 1840, the whole number of cattle in the United 
States was not greater than fifteen millions, this statement 
appears almost incredible, but it did not appear so to me, after 
crossing the plains ; and considering that the immense number, 
the millions and millions of cattle which I saw from the road, 
were but a tithe of the vast number contained in these extended 
pastures. The amount of game which I saw was not equal to 
my expectations. It is true I saw many deer and ostriches, but 
not so many as I expected ; whereas, in smaller game, such as 
hares and partridges, it fell infinitely short of the Plateau of 
Brazil. The most level of the Provinces which I traversed was 
Buenos Ayres, and after that Santa Fe, but I saw nowhere the 
dead sea level which has been described bv some travellers and 



264 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



geographers. In the latter provinces, and as we approached the 
Atlantic, a great improvement was observable in the habitations, 
and much more refinement among the people. During the last 
day's journey, we even found some families who resided alter- 
nately in the city. "We passed through the towns of Areco, 
Arricifis, and Luxan, none of which merit especial mention, 
c ^xi if my opportunities had been sufficient. The number of 
ox trains which are met on the plains are very considerable, as 
may be imagined, when it is considered that by such conveyance 
all the commerce of the plains and interior cities is conducted. 
The carts are extremely rude in their construction, being com- 
posed of a body, tongue, and two solid wooden wheels. Little or 
no iron is used in their construction, all bands being composed of 
green hide, which, put on wet, by contraction becomes nearly as 
strong and hard as metal. The covers are straw and green hide, 
and occasionally canvas. The teams consist of six pairs, the 
yokes being invariably secured to the head and horns of the ani- 
mals. Suspended from the roof of the cart is a long pole reach- 
ing to the leading yoke, through which projects a spike, by 
which the oxen are goaded according to necessity or the caprice 
of the driver. A second spike within the first, is adapted to the 
necessities of the second yoke, while a short hand goad is used 
■for inciting those attached to the tongue. The number of carts 
in a troop, is generally twelve, and as they never grease the 
wooden axles, or the inner circumference of the wooden wheels, 
the sounds produced are anything but musical, and by no means 
an agreeable accompaniment to a long march on a summer day. 
This creaking sound is heard at a very great distance, and points 
out their position to the Indians, who generally make their forays 
at night or early in the morning, when the ox-carts commence 
their journey. These trains are the principal objects of their 
attack, as those which are bound inland are loaded with such 
merchandise as they consider most valuable, and hence it is, that 
the traveller who may be on horseback, if acquainted with the 
factj always avoids parsing the night in their vicinity. 



THE PAMPAS 265 



I remember one night at tlie post house of Cabeza del Tigre, 
where I had insisted on stopping against the maturer judgment 
of Don Antonio, for what I could not but consider several valid 
reasons — that it was late at night — that we were tired — that a 
substantial supper was in preparation, and nearly ready, and that 
there was among the members of the household a pair of pretty 
seho7'itas — that my companion went to bed growling bitterly, 
because of a train of ox-carts which he assured me would 
bring the Indians down upon us before morning. I slept, however, 
none the less soundly on account of his predictions, having de- 
termined to trust to luck or destiny, which has befriended me 
often before and since. In all my journeys across the plains, I 
seldom slept in a house, although immediately in their ^dcinity, 
as I preferred the pure air and accommodations afforded by my 
own travelling bed, to the closeness of the houses, and the not 
remote probability of my being thoroughly excoriated by fleas, 
which in this country attain a size and ferocity which is really 
formidable to the uninitiated. The people of the country I found 
invariably kind and courteous, and as a stranger I always had the 
best of everything which their humble habitations would afford, 
even when there was no seat in the rancho^ save the solitary skull 
of a bullock that was the prerogative of the •' Gringo^'^^ who had 
also the first cut at the roast beef when brought on a spit from 
the embers, and was entitled to the largest or the only spoon when 
joining a party of perhaps half a dozen, in eating casioela out of 
the same pot. 

I mention these facts in justice to the guacho character, which 
I do not think has been fairly described by either Sir Francis 
Head, or by Darwin.* The former remarks that he always cocked 
his pistols when he met guachos. Whereas, I as invariably had 
my " chifres''^ unslung, and prepared to give them a drink and 
chat with them upon the character of the road ahead, and the 
wealth and resources of the surrounding country. The difference, 

* The montaneres or robbers, alluded to by former travellerSj appeared to 
have disappeared entirely, as I neither saw or heard of them. 



266 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



perhaps, may be a national one. Sir Francis Head was an 
Englishman, and I an American. 

A general description of these interesting plains will not be 
inappropriate nor do I believe unacceptable to the reader. The 
first reo'ion, traveilino: from the westward, and embracim^ the 
greater portion of the Province of Mendoza, produces a growth 
of low trees, or shrubs, and a long coarse grass. During the 
year there is little apparent change, as the trees seldom lose their 
leaves, and the grass always preserves the dingy green by which 
it is characterized in temperate climates. The second region, 
which extends over St. Luis, Cordova, and Santa Fe, and a 
portion of Buenos Ayres, produces a high grass, less coarse and 
better adapted for pasture than that which precedes it. The 
third region, comprising a portion of Buenos Ayres, is the 
most remarkable, and produces clover and thistles. The changes 
in vegetation in the year are marked and singular, but having 
traversed it at a time when the most curious phenomena did not 
present themselves, I will transcribe for the benefit of my readers 
the graphic description of Sir Francis Head, which agrees 
precisely with that which was given me by the natives of the 
country, especially by my friend and comjpamro Don Antonio, the 
courier. I might, it is true, give the same description in lan- 
guage of my own, but I have an inherent respect for those who 
are first upon a field, as pioneers of travel, and consider it 
almost in the light of a literary theft to follow in the footsteps of 
others, and by clothing the same fact or idea in different language, 
escape the direct imputation of plagiarism and abtain credit 
under false pretences. The intelligent reader will not regret my 
conscientiousness, as there is at times a rare beauty in the style 
of this author which I should in vain attempt to imitate. 

" The first region, or that lying nearest the Atlantic," says 
Head, " varies with the four seasons of the year in a most 
remarkable manner. In winter the leaves of the thistles are 
large and luxuriant, and the whole surface of the country has the 
rough appearance of a turnip field. The clover in this season is 



THE PAMPAS. 267 



extremely rich and strong, and the sight of the wild cattle grazing 
in full liberty on such pasture is very beautiful. In spring the 
clover has vanished, the leaves of the thistles have extended 
along the ground, and the country still looks like a rough crop of 
turnips. In less than a month the change is most extraordinary ; 
the whole region becomes a luxuriant wood of enormous thistles, 
which have suddenly shot up to the height of ten or eleven feet, 
and are all in full bloom. The road, or path, is hemmed in on 
both sides ; the view is completely obstructed ; not an animal is 
to be seen ; and the stems of the thistles are so close to each 
other, and so strong, that independent of the prickles with which 
they are armed, they form an impenetrable barrier. The sudden 
growth of these plants is quite astonishing; and though it would 
be an unusual misfortune in military history, yet it is really possi- 
ble, that an invading army, unacquainted with this country, 
might be imprisoned by these thistles before they had time to 
escape from them. The summer is not over before the scene 
undergoes another rapid change. The thistles suddenly lose 
their sap and verdure, their heads droop, the leaves shrink and 
fade, the stems become black and dead, and they remain rattling 
with the breeze one against another until the violence of the 
Pamjpero^ or hurricane, levels them to the ground, where they 
rapidly decompose and disappear, the clover rushes up, and the 
scene is ao;ain verdant." 

The variation of climate is not very great. In the region of 
grass and trees the atmosphere is dry, in that of thistles and 
clover it is moist, while the middle region, or that of grass, 
though generally dry, assumes the characteristics of the thistle 
region on its borders. This is peculiarly the case in Santa Fe, 
where we were detained a part of three days by rains, as had 
been predicted by the courier even before we left St. Luis. The 
climate is healthy although the dews are very heavy. There is 
seldom a dead calm on the Pampas, and the breeze rises in the 
afternoon similar to the sea breeze on tropical coasts. 
g The Pampero, as its name indicates, is the characteristic wind, 



26S CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



and blows violently across tlie plains from the Andes. Its 
healthful influence is measurably counterpoised by the prejudicial 
effects upon commerce, as the republic possesses no good ports. 

Sir Francis Head, who was employed in these provinces as an 
agent for some English mining companies, at one time crossed 
the plains from Mendoza to Buenos Ayres ia eight days, which is 
the shortest time in which I have authentic information of the 
journey having been performed. My own transit in twelve days, 
was considered a fair average for the government courier, who 
had eighteen years' experience on the route ; yet we were 
detained by rain when he would not travel, and still longer by 
having to wait at the post houses till the horses could be corralled 
and lassoed. Head, in speaking of travelling on the Pampas, 
remarks, " It is of course a hard life ; but it is so delightfully 
independent, and if one is in good riding condition, so rapid is 
the mode of travelling, that I have twice chosen it, and would 
always prefer it ; but I recommend no one to attempt it unless he 
is in good health and condition. When I first crossed the Pam- 
pas I went with a carriage, and although I had been accustomed 
to riding all my life, I could not at all ride with the peons, and after 
galloping five or six hours, was obliged to get into the carriage ; 
but after 1 had been riding for three or four months, and had 
lived upon beef and water, I found myself in a condition which I 
can only describe by saying, that I felt no exertion could kill 
me. Although I constantly arrived so completely exhausted 
that I could not speak, yet a few hours' sleep upon my saddle on 
the ground so completely restored me, that for a week I could be 
upon my horse before sunrise, could ride till two or three hours 
after sunset, and have really tired ten and twelve horses a day. 
This will explain the immense distances which people in South 
America are said to ride, which I am confident could only be 
done on beef and water." 

The Pampa Indians I was so fortunate as not to meet, and 
consequently cannot be expected to give a description of them. 
Had I met them, probably the result would have been the same, 



THE PAMPAS. 269 



as they seldom if ever allow males wbo once fall into their power 
to escape. I cannot believe them to be very numerous, as their 
regular roaming grounds are confined to a very limited region, but 
their predatory habits, the rapidity of their movements, and the 
tincertainty of the object of their attack, makes them extremely 
formidable to the inhabitants, and exercises an important 
influence upon the commerce of the plains. They are in fact on 
the plains what the piratical cruisers were in former times to the 
commerce of the seas and the unprotected coasts, which is here 
represented by the ox trains and the frontier habitations. As 
piracy was suppressed by the employment of men-of-war, equally 
fast sailers, better manned and armed, so must the phacy of 
the plains be suppressed by light irregular cavalry, who can 
follow the Indians to their haunts and exterminate them when 
overtaken, and destroying their villages, killing their cattle, and 
carrying off their women and children as hostages, force them 
into the making and keeping of a treaty of peace. In certain 
seasons of the year, when the grass does not have a distinct trail, 
bloodhounds might be advantageously employed, and with 
their assistance, I feel assured that a very small force such as I 
have suggested might soon put an end to the forays of these 
savages, whose only mercy, if it may be so called, is shown 
toward the young and pretty women, whom they appropriate, and 
whose incursions keep the whole frontier and route to Mendoza 
and Cordova in a constant state of fear and excitement.^ 

* Our philanthrophic progenitors would doubtless express themselves 
horrified by such a proposition when it comes from an American, notwith- 
standing their own antecedents with the marooning negroes in Jamaica, and 
even in later times, if w^e believe Chambers' paper on Australia and Yan 
Dieman's land. ^'Two hundred and forty (convicts) were at the penal 
settlement of Port Arthur, on a barren peninsula connected with the main 
by a narrow neck oi land. Across this runs a line of posts guarded by 
savage dogs, and some soldiers to prevent the escape of the culprits. Xever 
theless, some do evade even the vigilance of the brute watchers ; and we 
have heard of several men, who clothing themselves in the skins of kanga 
roos, and imitating the motions of the animal, thus contrived to escape.'' 
Chaiixbers' Australia and Van Die/nan's Land^ vol. vi. 



270 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



It is the opinion of some writers, among whom Head is the 
most conspicuous, that the Indians, with fire-arms, would exercise 
an important political influence in South America, and that those 
who roam the Pam.pas, united with the warlike Araucanians, and 
mounted on the horses brought to oppress their forefathers, 
might rush from the cold region to which they have been driven, 
with an irresistible fury, and trample under foot the descendants 
of Europeans. This is an impossible contingency. The Pampa 
Indians already have fire arms, which they lay aside for the 
lance, which for their purposes is a more appropriate weapon. 
They never dismount during their forays, which are made sud- 
denly, and they are even checked by a house slightly fortified by 
a hedge of cactus. Their object is to escape from and not to 
attack bodies of armed men, and fire arms would render them 
less formidable by impeding their rapidity of movement. The 
whole number of undomesticated Indians now in South America, 
in its whole extent, would be too small to make them formidable 
to the permanent settlements. 

Any one acquainted with Indian character, will readily appre- 
ciate the improbability of different tribes uniting for a common 
cause ; as contiguity makes them, generally, more inimical to 
each other than to their common enemy. The Araucanians 
derive their passive power from the position which they occupy 
in the fastnesses of the extreme south of the Chilian territory; 
and, removed thence, they would cease to be formidable ; more- 
over, they are not horsemen, and would rather embarrass than 
assist the operations of the Pampa Indians. As occurs with 
many philosophical writers. Head attributes too great an influ- 
ence to the effects of climate, when he anticipates a conquest of 

It is certainly a desirable object to retain the convicts within the limits 
prescribed by the authorities. Yet it is incommensurate with the object to 
be attained by the inhabitants of the Pampas and those employed in the 
transportation of merchandize. With them, their life as well as property 
depends upon keeping within bounds the excursions of the merciless and 
ferocious savages. 



THE PAMPAS. 271 



the existing establishments in South America, from the '' colder 
regions" of the south or north. 

From a distance, the appearance of Buenos Ayres is by no 
means prepossessing, and possesses none of the picturesque 
beauty of Santiago, Lima. E.io de Janeiro, or, indeed, the great 
majority of the South xlmerican capitals. After a long ride 
through the city, I arrived at the Hotel de Provence, which had 
been highly recommended to me, and dismounting, hastened to 
extract my baggage from the mail bag, in order to allow my friend 
Don Antonio to make his appearance at the Post Office, which 
he dared not do, with its existino^ contents. Anxious for his 
speedy liberation, as delay m.ight compromise him, I took no 
heed of my own affairs, and having deposited my scanty ward- 
robe on a piazza, on an inner court, I learned, upon enquiry, that 
I could not be accommodated with a room, as the city was at 
that time extremely full of strangers. The courier had made 
his hasty adieux when this disagreeable announcement was made 
to me by a servant, and, considering that it was raining, and this 
my first visit to the city, my position was very fa.r from being an 
enviable one ; and, seeing a very pretty French woman within, 
whom I was informed was — not mine hostess— but she whom I 
wished to officiate in that capacity, I determined to avail myself 
of the supposed greater susceptibility of the sex to pity, and 
entreated that I might have a room, however unpretending. 

It was utterly impossible — utterly — she wished that Monsieur 
could only see the extremes to which she herself was compelled 
to resort, in respect to sleeping apartments, and he would be con- 
vinced of the impossibility of my being accommodated. She 
suggested, however, that her mother kept an hotel in another 
part of the town, and might, possibly, be able to accommodate me. 
So, thanking her for the interest she had displayed in my affiiirs, 
which I would scarce have troubled myself to do, considering the 
very slight nature of the obligation, had she not been so exceed- 
ingly pretty, and committing my baggage to her care, during my 
absence, I threw on my poncho^ and wading through the several 



Q72 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



inches of water whicli invariably distinguishes a heavy shower in 
this city, eventually discovered the house of Madam Mere, where 
I had thfi inestimable good fortune to secure a room without a 
window, and with the slight drawback of being obliged to share 
it with three Grerman merchant captains. Necessitas non habet^ 
&c., &c. — every one knows what necessity has not. So I trans- 
ported my baggage to this point, and attempted to imagine my- 
self perfectly contented, which, 'in truth, I found somewhat diffi- 
cult, under the circumstances. There is a loneliness, as I expe- 
rienced upon this occasion, in the large city, which I had never 
felt, either in mountain or plain, each of which I regretted, as I 
found myself houseless among a crowd of strangers, each of 
whom had their domiciles, so that I had not even the satisfaction 
derived from companionship in misery. In the evening, how- 
ever, matters brightened and improved. .At the table d'hote I 
met an old acquaintance, and, afterward, our Consul, Charge des 
Affaii'eSj and other countrymen, who wished to extend to me 
hospitality and civility. In lieu of my uncomfortable quarters, a 
wealthy countryman who owned the best house in the city, placed 
its accommodations at my disposal ; and the gloomy prospects 
which dimmed my first arrival, were speedily dispelled by kind- 
ness received on every side. Meeting, in the course of the even- 
ing, with Captain Clarke, an American in command of a brig 
about to sail for Rio de Janeiro, he kindly invited me to take 
passage with him, an offer I gladly accepted, and in four days 
from my arrival in Buenos Ay res, I had embarked and was on 
my way to Brazil, 



CHAPTER XVIIL " 

BUENOS AYHES, 

The city of Buenos Ayres^ the capital, and only important sea- 
port of the Argentine Confederation^ has been so frequently 
described by travellers and voyagers, that more than a passing 
reference would be superfluous in this place. 

Its appearance is by no means imposing when viewed from a 
distance, as its site is too level to display at all advantageously. 
The streets, as usual in Spanish cities, are laid out at right angles, 
are of sufficient width, tolerably well paved, and clean except 
during the heavy rains, when its drainage is so defective that 
many of them are flooded with water. The most important are 
appropriately named after the neighbouring Republics, as Callede 
Chili J Bolivia J Peno, &c. The style of architecture is the Mo- 
resco, resembling that found in Havana and Yera Cruz. Unlike 
all the cities of Brazil and Chili, its houses have flat terraced 
roofs, to which the inhabitants resort in the mornings and even- 
ings of the hot season. Houses are found in the principal streets 
of two and three stories, although the greater number have but 
one. There are no chimneys, and as the climate is quite cool 
during the winter, much discomfort is experienced by all classes 
from cold. Even were the houses provided with fire places, the 
scarcity and expense of fuel would place it beyond the reach of 
the great majority of the people, and hence, although the climate 
is not sufficiently rigorous to produce much actual suffering, I 



274 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES 



have no doubt more inconvenience is felt from cold than in any 
of the northern cities of our country. 

The religious architecture is respectable, though not remark- 
able for its beauty or extent, while the public edifices are generally 
substantial and well adapted to their destination. A new palace 
which is being built under the direction of G-eneral Rosas, is an 
extensive and well constructed edifice, covering a large space near 
the centre of the city. The poFt is notoriously exposed, and ill 
adapted for the purposes of commerce, the water being so shal- 
low that large vessels cannot anchor within six or eight miles of 
the beach, while the coasting vessels lie at nearly half that dis- 
tance. A small frigate, or even a large sloop-of-war, when an- 
chored as near as practicable, are hull down from the city. 

The shallowness of the water, and the frequent and violent 
Pamperos which during the winter interrupt communication with 
the shore, renders this city an extremely inappropriate locality for 
a great commercial depot, and the fact that its commerce is 
really so extensive, displays the importance of the products of the 
country, which have enabled it to triumph over so many dis- 
advantages. The landing on the beach is inconvenient, and con- 
ducted somewhat ludicrously by means of small high-wheeled 
carts, which drive through the shallow water to a point at which 
the boats can arrive. A boat with many passengers is immedi- 
ately surrounded by these carts, and the passenger is fortunate, 
if in the emulation of their respective drivers, he be not as 
thoroughly soused as if he had waded on shore without availing 
himself of their assistance. He may, however, escape the mud 
which abounds in the greatest profusion along the beach. At the 
time of my visit the road was filled with vessels awaiting cargoes 
of hides and tallow, which the removal of the blockade had made 
available as a supply for the deficiency felt in Europe and the 
United States. It was on account of the number of vessels, 
whose captains generally lived on shore, that I was refused ad- 
mittance at the Hotel de Provence^ and that I was compelled to 
share accommodations with the Dutch captains. 



BUENOS AYRES. 275 



The character of the Government of Buenos Ajres and the 
question of hostilities between the Argentine Republic and 
Montevideo, as connected with the English and French interven- 
tion, are subjects which have attracted very general attention 
throughout America and Europe, and mj sketch will be doubtless 
considered incomplete without an exposition of what I deem to be 
the facts of the case, and an expression of my opinion as to its 
merits. Be it known, however, that I approach this subject not 
without fear and trembling, as conflicting testimony makes it the 
most difficult subject to decide, while General Rosas has in more 
than one instance shewn himself so much alive to the influence of 
the press, that he resents, officially, an honest expression of opin- 
ion on the part of any traveller who may comment upon his ad- 
ministration, especially when such comments are made by per- 
sons holding an official position. 

My means of information might, under ordinary circumstances, 
be considered ample, having served in the river La Plata in 1841 
and '47, having had frequent opportunities of conversing with 
partizans of both the Buenos Ayrean and Montevidean Republics, 
disinterested persons holding divers opinions, and having carefully 
and laboriously studied the able articles which have appeared 
from time to time in the Archivo Americano^ and Gaceta Mercan- 
tile the organs of Rosas, and the Commercio del Plata^ of Mon- 
tevideo, the exponent of the views and opinions of the antago- 
nistic party. Xotwithstanding so many mis-statements have been 
made by each party, that it is the most difficult imaginable task 
to arrive at the merits of the case, and I would fain avoid 
the subject, did I not deem it essential as a termination of my 
sketch. 

After the attainment of independence of Spain, the various 
provinces, excepting Paraguay, formed a confederation known in 
the family of nations as the United Provinces, or the Argentine 
Confederation, and for many years was governed by various chiefs, 
who replaced each other in rapid succession, in the same manner 
of which we have a happy exemplification in the neighbouring 



276 CHILIAND THE ARGENTlivE PROVINCES 

Republic of Mexico. The country might be considered as di- 
vided into two great parties, known as Unitarians^ or Centralists^ 
who wished to consolidate the Grovernrnent after the manner of 
the United States, and the Federalists^ who wished the per- 
fect independence of the provinces. The difFerence was, that 
between our own country, under the articles of Confederation, 
and under our present Constitution. The frequent insurrections 
and changes of Grovernrnent continued with little intermission un- 
til April, 1835, when for the second time (he was first inaugu- 
rated in 1S2S) the present Governor of Buenos Ayres obtained 
the control. General Eosas has been frequently represented as a 
guacho^ or man of the people, whose talents and enterprise had 
elevated him to his present position. This is an incorrect view, 
as Rosas, although a Haciendero^ or owner of grazing farms, had 
every advantage which could be derived from education and from 
association, as his family was one of the most distinguished in the 
Province ; his grandfather, as has been heretofore mentioned, 
having been the Spanish Viceroy of Chili. His wealth was great, 
and being exceeding shrewd and of a bold, daring disposition, and 
one of the n:iost skilful horsemen in South ^America, he acG[uired 
great influence among the guachos, who, owing to the division of 
parties and cliques in the principal cities, had become the most 
influential class. A successful campaign against the Pampa In- 
dians, brought about his election in 1828 as Grovernor of the 
Province of Buenos A3n'es. Subsequent civil commotions caused 
him to be recalled to the Governorship, which, however, he refused 
to accept, until he was endowed with such powers as would ena- 
ble him to crush any attempt at rebellion against his authority. 
This was finally conceded, and Rosas inaugurated for the second 
time, in 1835, since which time he has governed not only the 
Province of which he is really the GrOvernor, but the entire Ar- 
gentine Confederation, with a rigidity never excelled, if ever 
equalled, by the Spanish Viceroys. Neither has his administra- 
tion been undistinguished by barbarities, for which even his most 
ardent admirers cannot but hold him responsible, as if they were 



BUENOS AYRES. 277 



not done by his order, they might have been prevented had he 
exerted the power which he certainly wielded. In Buenos Ayres, 
some distin«yuished citizens who were inimical to him were assas- 
sinated, while at a later period one of his most violent and talent- 
ed opponents, the editor of the Commercio cltl Plata^ of Monte- 
video, was removed in the same manner. A question arose with 
Bolivia, in which the minister of that republic, having shown a 
disposition to thwart the Dictator, was soon after found stabbed 
in the streets, with all his money and valuables on his person. In 
a city where the police, public and secret, is very numerous, and 
in a high degree vigilant, these assassinations are, to say the least, 
singular coincidences, and the fact that the perpetrators were 
never discovered, gave a certain degree of plausibility to the sus- 
picions which they excited. Those who believe that Napoleon sac- 
rificed Pichegrue, and Lieut. Wright of the R. X., in prison, will 
find it difficult to avoid falling into the opinion expressed by the 
enemies of the Dictator. The year 1836 was distinguished by 
the blockade of Buenos Ayres, enforced by the French on ac- 
count of some supposed aggressions upon the rights of their citi- 
zens, and by the civil war in Buenos Ayres, which brought the 
power of Eosas nearly to an end, as Lavalle, the leader of the 
Unitarians, then the most numerous party, with an imposing 
force, advanced to within a few miles of Buenos Ayres. Pre- 
vious to this misunderstanding with the French, Rivera had been 
President of Montevideo, but Oribe having been elected to fill 
the executive chair, the former took command of the army. To 
the French, who were preparing for hostile operations against 
Buenos Ayres, the city of Montevideo as a depot, and the co- 
operation of the people, was very desirable, and they accordingly 
endeavoured to make a treaty with Oribe to secure him to their 
interests. In this attempt they failed at the time, owing to the 
loyalty of Oribe to his friend, but the commercial rivalry which 
for many years had existed between these iViO outlets to the com- 
merce of the plains, aided probably by French influence, and the 
desire of the late President to regain his power, soon effected 
13 



278 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



what was desired. Oiibe was deposed, and hostilities com- 
menced against Buenos Ayres, by an attempt of Rivera to co- 
operate with Laaylle, by marching an army toward the Argentine 
territory, by way of Entre Eios. These hostilities on the part of 
Monteyideo, are attributable, in a high degree, to the influence 
of the Buenos Ayrian refugees, who, driven from their country 
by Rosas, had sought safety from his persecution in that Repub- 
lic, where they had denounced his cruelties ia such unmeasured 
terms, that he was considered by his new opponents as an enemy 
to the human race, and a crusade against him in the light of a 
religious duty. Oribe, upon his deposition, haying taken refuge 
on board one of our vessels of war, retired to Buenos Ayres, 
where he was kindly received by Rosas, and placed in command 
of his forces employed against Lavaile, who was eventually defeat- 
ed and shot, either in cold blood or while attempting to escape 
from his pursuers. 

The organization of the Unitarian party in Buenos Ayres hav- 
ing been destroyed, and peace having been established with the 
French, who appear not to have made due provision for their 
weaker allies, Rosas considered himself enabled to punish the 
hostile disposition shown by the Montevideans, and commenced 
operations by sending an army into that Republic under the com- 
mand of Oribe, the deposed President, blockading at the same 
time the port of Montevideo, with a small squadron. Rivera 
took the field against this invasion, in 1841, while strenuous 
efforts were directed by Commodore Goe, an American in the 
service of Montevideo, to equip a fleet to raise the blockade. 

I witnessed the commencement of the hostile operations on 
the river, which were opened by a general battle between the 
two flotillas, consisting of nine sail of small vessels, immediately 
in front of Montevideo, and which terminated, in the course of 
the year, with the total annihilation of the defensive squadron, 
and the disbanding of its ollicers and men. The resources of 
Montevideo were unequal to a naval war, especially as their antag- 
onists bad already a disposable naval force, which, taking the in- 



BUENOS AYRES. 279 



itiative bj a close blockade, prevented them from obtaining 
yessels or warlike munitions from abroad. 

In December, 1842, Rivera having been driven from the field, 
the siege of Montevideo, which has not yet terminated, was com- 
menced by Oribe, whose flag has been constantly within sight of 
the inhabitants. 

Besieged by land, and blockaded by sea, the commerce of the 
Banda Oriental was paralyzed, to the detriment and ruin of the 
foreign as well as the native merchants. The former asked, on 
the part of their respective governments, an intervention in the 
affairs of the two republics, in order to end a war, which, while 
utterly ruinous to them, could, eventually, lead to no beneficial 
results. 

Brazil, perfectly alive to the danger of allowing the influence 
of Rosas to cross the La Plata, took the initiative in a neo-otia- 
tion, whose object was to bring about an armed intervention by 
France and England ; but, perhaps, fearing the result of a war 
which might dismember the Empire in the then disturbed state 
of the southern province of Rio Grande, took no active part in 
the subsequent events, in which, however, their interests and 
sympathies were identical with those of the Montevideans. As 
the two combined naval powers could not obtain the terms which 
they demanded from Buenos Ayres, they sent a force to assist in 
the defence of Montevideo, and commenced hostile operations by 
the capture of the island of Martin Garcia, which commands 
the entrance of the upper waters of La Plata, and accompanied 
by a large convoy of merchantmen, forced a passage up the 
Parana, the navigation of which had been obstinately refused by 
Rosas. This incursion led to the battle with the batteries at 
Obligado, which were abandoned by the Buenos Ayreans after a 
creditable — (heroic is the Buenos Ayrean term) — resistance. The 
greater portion, if not all the Buenos Ayrean squadron, which 
was utterly insignificant, when compaiei with that of either of 
their gigantic antagonists, had been captured even before the 
ascent of the Parana. 



280 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



The English, whose signal defeats upon the occasion of an 
attack upon Buenos Ayres in 1806, and another in 1807, did not 
encourage them to attempt land operations, soon became luke- 
warm in the cause of the intervention, and after a protracted and 
unsatisfactory negotiation with France and the Government of 
Rosas, removed their blockading squadron in 1847, and their 
garrison from Montevideo in the succeeding year, at which time 
their armed intervention, which had been for some time previous, 
merely nominal, ended, and their suspended commercial relations 
with Buenos Ayres were practically renewed. 

The French raised their blockade about the end of the year 
1848, when this famous intervention, which promised, at its com- 
mencement, to exercise a powerful and lasting influence on South 
American politics, terminated in a manner utterly disgraceful to 
the political and military character of these two nations, who not 
only did not attain a single avowed object for which they had 
interfered, but appeared too happy in being permitted to recede 
silently and ungracefully from the lofty position which they had 
at first assumed. This interference in a contest between two 
independent states was formed into a powerful political capital by 
the astute Dictator of Buenos Ayres, and his able, though ser- 
vile crowd of writers, who, while railing at the lawlessness of an 
European intervention in the affairs of the two countries, appear 
to have trusted, that every one else might remain ignorant of the 
fact, that the avowed object of the war waged by Buenos Ayres 
against Montevideo was to reinstate at the head of the govern- 
ment his partizan, Oribe, who had been deposed and ejected by 
the people ; whose original term, for which he had been elected, 
had long since expired, and who, meanwhile, had borne arms in 
the service of their enemies, against themselves and their allies. 

The blockade of Montevideo, as it has never merited the 
name of a siege, in the military signification of the word, still 
continues. To the inhabitants, the present state of affairs has 
become a matter of custom, while their enemies have turned 
their cantonments into a city which is beginning to rival Monte- 



BUENOS AYRES. 281 



video. The party of Oribe have also a port of entry near the 
city, to which commerce has been measurably diverted, and 
through which the limited products of the country are principally 
exported. 

This, in a few words, is the history of the hostilities which 
have so long injured the prosperity of the republics of the La 
Plata, as I understand it, and which gave jise to the famous 
intervention of the English and French, which powerful nations, 
like the French king of yore, 

" Marched up a hill and then marched down again ;'^ 

having been outwitted by the diplomacy and by the sturdy obsti- 
nacy of the so-called Guacho Governor of Buenos Ayres. 

There has been, also, since the death of Francia, a quasi war 
with Paraguay, which republic Rosas insists upon as an integral 
portion of the Argentine Confederation, an honour to which the 
rulers and people do not aspire, and having an army of some twenty 
or 25,000 men, insist upon their independence. The argument 
of the Paraguayans is, in my opinion, unanswerable, although it 
has been obscured by the sophistries of Rosas, and the able 
writers in his service. After the independence of the colonies, a 
Congress was held, which formed the confederation known as the 
United Provinces. To this Congress Paraguay sent no deputies, 
preferring her independence, which she has done up to the pre- 
sent time, carrying it, during the Dictatorship of Dr. Francia, to 
a system of entire isolation, unheard of previously among 
nations, and equalling that now practised in Japan. These facts 
prove that Paraguay, after throwing off the Spanish yoke, had 
dt facto., preserved her entire independence, and secondly, that 
she never was a member of the United Provinces, now known as 
the Argentine Confederation. A claim which Rosas has set up 
that Paraguay must be a member of the Confederation, because 
Buenos Ayres assisted in the achievement of her independence, is 
utterly futile. The provinces were at war with Spain, and made 



282 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



common cause against a common enemj ; and any military ope- 
rations which diverted or weakened the power of the mother 
country, was alike advantageous to each and alL On the same 
principle, Buenos Ayres might claim the Chilian territory, which 
their forces under San Martin aided in wresting from the Span- 
iards, while the Columbians and Chilians might substantiate a 
like claim upon Peru. 

A case somewhat similar to tHe relative positions of Paraguay 
and the Provinces of the Confederation, was presented in our 
own country after the general adoption of the present Federal 
Constitution. By an inherent provision in that instrument, a 
majority of two-thirds of the states were required to give it 
validity. This majority immediately concurred, but the assent 
of two states, Rhode Island and North Carolina, was for some 
time withheld. Until their accession, they were considered as 
foreign and independent States, and no ejfforts were made to 
coerce them, because the remaining eleven states had contributed 
largely to their independence. 

Another question of much general importance has been moot- 
ed, during and previous to the European intervention in the 
aflfairs of the La Plata republics, and one in which all nations are 
more or less interested, and the Empire of Brazil in an especial 
manner. This, in relation to the right to the free navigation of 
the river Paraguay and its tributaries, which Kosas, holding as 
has been already suggested, the key, by the possession of the for- 
tified island of Martin Garcia, has refused to concede to foreign 
flags. That nations have a perfect right to preclude foreigners 
from a participation in their internal navigation, and their 
coasting trade, has never been disputed, but when more than 
one nation has territory upon the banks of the same river, 
the case is entirely different. Each nation whose territories bor- 
der upon it, have an undoubted right to the use of what anciena 
(Roman) writers on public law have appropriately considered as 
" common property." 

jSIodern writers have termed this an imperfect right in its gen- 



BUENOS AYRES. 283 



cral acceptation, but no one witli whom I haye met denies tae 
actual existence of the ri2:ht in a case similar to that of Brazil. 
The Roman writers declared rivers to be public property, and 
that the necessary use of the banks was incident to that of the 
water. " Public jurists apply this principle of the Roman civil 
law, to the same case between nations.'"^ The right to the navi- 
gation of the Scheldt was in 1648 renounced by the Eelgic Pro- 
vinces in favor of the Dutch. In this, as was in another instance 
urged by the latter, both parties were probably influenced by the 
fact that the navigation was in great part artificial, the river hav- 
ing been diked and made navigable by Hollanders. By the 
treaty of Vienna in 1815, the commercial navigation of rivers 
flowing through, or bounding different states, was declared free 
their entire course, subject only to an uniform system of police 
regulations. The rivers thus opened were the Rhine, Scheldt, 
Neckar, Mayne, Meuse, Moselle, Elbe, Vistula, and Po. 

As, however, Rosas has pretended to sustain American princi- 
ples, and American policy, the determination of our own govern- 
ment upon one occasion of the discussion of a similar question, 
€annot but be instructive and useful, especially as the natural po- 
sition of the United States was nearly identical with that of Brazil 
in the question involving the navigation of the Paraguay.^ and free 
egress for her Jlwviatile commerce. 

The United States, while subject to Great Britain, were secured 
in the free navigation of the river Mississippi, by the treaty of 
1763, between France, Spain, and the mother country, and sub- 
sequently, after the achievement of their independence, by the 
treaty of Paris, 1783. Spain having afterward obtained possession 
of both banks of that river at its mouth, and a considerable dis- 
tance above, claimed the exclusive navigation, whieh was stoutly 
resisted by the government of the United States. The question 
was finally adjusted by the treaty of 1795, in the following 
words. 

" At lick 4. — And his Catholic Majesty has likewise agreed 
'^^ Wheaton, Law of Nations, page 243. 



284 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



that the navigation of the said river (Mississippi,) in its whole 
breadth, from its source to the ocean, shall be free only to his 
subjects, and the citizens of the United States, unless he should 
extend this privilege to the subjects of others powers bv special 
convention. 

'' Article 22. — And in consequence of the stipulations con- 
tained in the 4th Article, his Catholic Majesty will permit the 
citizens of the United States for tiie space of three years from 
this time, to deposit their merchandize and effects in the port of 
Kew Orleans, and to export them from thence, without paying 
any other duty than a fair price for the hire of stores. xAnd 
his Majesty promises either to continue this permission, if he 
finds, during that time, that it is not prejudicial to the interests 
of Spain, or if he should not agree to continue it, then he will 
assign to them, on another part of the banks of the Mississippi, 
an equivalent establishment." 

In 1803 it came to the knowledge of the government of the 
United States that the Governor of New Orleans had withdrawn 
the right of deposit, upon which a series of resolutions were in- 
troduced into the United States Senate, which may be consid- 
ered a fair representation of American sentiment upon this 
subject. 

Resolutions of Ivlr. Koss, read hy the Yice- President of the 
United States^ in the Senate^ on the 23d of February^ 1803. 

'' 1. Resolved^ That the United States have an indisputable 
right to the free navigation of the river Mississippi, and to a 
convenient place of deposit for their produce and merchandise in 
the islard of New Orleans. 

" 2. That the late infraction of such, their unquestionable 
right, is an aggression hostile to their honour and interest. 

•' 3. That it does not consist with the dignity or safety of this 
Union, to hold a right so important by a tenure so uncertain. 

" 4. That it materially concerns such of the American citi- 
zens as dwell on the western waters, and is essential to the union, 



BUENOS AYRES. 285 



strength, and prosperity of these states, that they obtain complete 
security for the full and peaceable enjoyment of such, their abso- 
lute right. 

" 5. That the president be authorized to take immediate 
possession of such place, or places, in the said island, or the ad- 
jacent territories, as he may deem fit and convenient for the pur- 
poses aforesaid, and to adopt such other measures for obtain- 
ing that complete security as to him in wisdom shall seem 
meet. 

'' 6. That he be authorized to call into actual service any 
number of the militia of the states of South Carolina, Georgia, 
Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee, or the Mississippi Territory, which 
he may think proper, not exceeding fifty thousand, and to employ 
them tegether with the military and naval forces of the Union for 
eJOfecting the objects above mentioned. 

'' 7. That the sum of five millions of dollars be appropriated 
to carrying into effect the foregoing resolutions ; and that the 
whole, or any part of that sum be paid, or applied, on warrants 
drawn in pursuance of such directions, as the president may from 
time to time think proper to give to the Secretary of the Trea- 
sury." 

These resolutions were most ably debated until the 2Sth of 
February, when they were rejected by a vote of fifteen to twelve, 
and a resolution unanimously carried that the President should be 
authorized, when he deemed it expedient, '' to call out, arm, and 
equip, according to law, and to hold in readiness to march at a 
moment's warning, an army of 80,000 militia, and that an un- 
specified sum be appropriated to carry out the foregoing purposes 
during the recess of Congress, and that money be considered as 
appropriated to enable the president to establish one or more 
arsenals on our western waters." 

If these resolutions, as proposed, and as finally carried, without 
a dissenting voice, be not considered sufficiently indicative of the 
American feeling upon this mooted question, the forcible arguments 

13* 



S86 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVi^.^x.^. 



of one of th.Q orators, (Mr. White of Delaware,) may perhaps 
more fully exemplify it. 

" You had (said that gentleman) as well attempt to dam up 
the mouth of the Mississippi, and say to its restless waves, ye 
shall cease here, and never mingle with the ocean, as to expect 
that they (the Western people) will be prevented from descend- 
ing it. Without the free use of the river, and the necessary ad- 
vantages of a deposit below our line, their country is not worth 
possessing ; their produce must be wasted in the fields or rot in 
their granaries. "^ ^ These are rights not only guaranteed 
them by treaty, but given to them by the God of Nature, and 
they will enforce them with, or without the authority of the Grov- 
ernment." 

In relation to this discussion, the ablest modern commentator 
on public law remarks, that the claim of the United States was 
'^ rested by the American government on the sentiment written 
in deep characters on the heart of man, that the ocean is free to 
all men, and its rivers to all their inhabitants. This natural right 
was found to be universally acknowledged and protected in all 
tracts of country united under the same political society, by laying 
navigable rivers open to all their inhabitants. When these rivers 
enter the limits of another society, if the right of the upper 
inhabitants to descend the stream was in any case obstructed, it 
was an act of force by a stronger society against a weaker, con- 
demned by the judgment of mankind."^ 

In the instance just cited, an appeal to arms, to support the 
natural rights of our citizens, by the United States, did not be- 
come necessary, as the deposit was immediately restored, and 
the final purchase of the territory of Louisiana from France, 
into whose hands it had fallen through the mutations of the times, 
has set the question forever at rest, so far as the Mississippi is 
concerned. 

A brief inspection of the map of South America, will explain 
the views which I have taken, and will elucidate the perfect right 
* Wheaton on the Law of Nations, page 249. 



BUENOS AYRES. 287 



of Brazil, possessing vast and fertile territories upon the Parana 
and tlie upper and navigable branches of the Paraguay, to a free 
outlet to the ocean through the La Plata. Without it, these rich 
lands are almost valueless, owing to the distance from the sea, to 
attain which, a land journey of nearly four months is required, 
and the enormous expense attending land transportation through 
an uninhabited country, intersected only 'by mule paths. 

The geographer and economist would doubtless have expected 
that a free and cheap transit to the ocean must have been secured 
prior to the establishment of the towns and cities found in the 
hydrographic basin of the Paraguay. Such is not the case. These 
towns, as Cuyaba, the capital of Zvlatto Grosso, were established 
at an early period in the colonial history of Brazil, in the vicinity 
of gold washings locally as productive as those recently found in 
California. Gold and diamonds would easily remunerate for 
even a tedious land transportation, but now the washings having 
become unproductive, these fertile frontier posts fiad themselves 
completely isolated from the sea, and the reaiaiader of the empire, 
without exchangeable productions. 

Judging from my own experience, attained while travellin<>' in 
Brazil in 1843 and '44, and by the information obtained from 
persons who have visited these regions, I have no doubt that 
with a free outlet, they would speedily become the richest portion 
of the interior of the empire. A Flumaiile squadron is now 
stationed by the Imperial Government in the waters of the Upper 
Paraguay, as a check against the Indians and Bolivians, who have 
made some encroachments in that direction. Bat even this national 
force is not allowed to pass through the La Plata, and their hav- 
ing descended as far as Assumption in 1847, was made a subject 
matter of complaint by the petulant and aggressive government 
of Buenos Ayres. The right of egress to Paraguay is equally 
good as that of Brazil. Bolivia has also claimed it with justice, 
I cannot but think, alrhough her case is not so clear as that of 
the two countries already specified. 

I have been thus explicit in treating upon this subject, as much 



288 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



obscurity has been thrown upon a matter perfectly clear and in- 
contestible, by the voluminous and sophistical writers of Rosas ; 
and as he pretends to have placed himself at the head of a party 
purely American in its principles, I am most happy to place 
before any of his partizans, who may meet this sketch, a brief ac- 
count of what has been the action taken in a similar case by the 
greatest nation of the new world, and which must of necessity 
take the lead of any so termed continental party. The events of 
the last few years have proved too clearly how little would be, at 
the present day, respected by our countrymen, a pretension simi- 
lar to that set up by the Governor of Buenos Ayres. 

Government. = — Allusion has already been made to the exist- 
ence of two distinct political parties in Buenos Ayres, the Unita- 
rian or Central, and the Federal. The former party is consider- 
ed the most intelligent and liberal, and is composed of the edu- 
cated inhabitants of the cities, while the latter is composed prin- 
cipally of ignorant guoxho$^ of whom Rosas may be considered 
the leader, but not the representative. It is not, however, be- 
cause this chieftain had any objections to centralizing the powers 
of the goyernment, that he is not in name the Centralist, but be- 
cause he availed himself, as not unfrequently occurs in representa- 
tive states, of the name and physical force of the opposing party 
to attain power and iofiuence. 

In regard to the division of population into political parties, 
there is an antagonism in the position of things in the two republics 
of Buenos Ayres and Montevideo, which tends to elucidate the 
absence of a general principle in the actions of the government 
of the former. Oribe is, or was in Montevideo, the organ of 
the Conservative party, while Rivera represented the masses ; yet 
Rosas himself, elevated by the power of the latter, has waged a 
tedious and cruel war to destroy in a neighbouring country the in- 
fluence of the very party, to which, in Buenos Ayres, he owed 
his own elevation. 

In 1841, by the defeat of Lavalle, the Unitarian party was 



BUENOS AYRES", 269 



virtually destroyed, and its principal members now wander in 
foreign countries, to which they have been driven by the power 
of the Dictator. In lieu of the badge of that party, nothing is now 
seen in Buenos Ayres but red waistcoats, red hat bands, and de- 
vices of the E.osista party. It must not, however, be imagined that 
this unanimity in reality exists. It is far from being the case, 
and the uniformity in device and emblem is a matter of stern 
necessity. Many stories are told of the cruelty and outrage by 
which the wearing of this badge was enforced by a club of ruf- 
fians, who, in 1840 and 1S41, intimidated the oppressed people of 
that unfortunate city. Severe corporal punishnaent in the street, 
was the result of appearing without the device, and from this 
punishment even women were not exempt. In 1841, I met in- 
Montevideo, a beautiful and accomplished girl about eighteen 
years old, who was said to have been whipped with a leather 
thong on the bare back, by some members of this atrocious club, 
for appearing in the street without a red ribbon in her hair. That 
Rosas controlled and directed this club of ruffians, is asserted not 
only by his enemies ; that he could have suppressed it at any mo- 
ment, no unprejudiced person, acquainted with the power which 
he has at all times wielded since his accession, can possibly doubt. 
That he is cruel and stern beyond precedent in modern times, or 
that he is the tool and representative of a most savage and bar- 
barous constituency there can be no question. 

There is truth in some, if not all the imputations against him, 
and we are little disposed to be incredulous, when crimes and 
acts of tyranny and oppression are charged upon a ruler, who 
obliges his subjects to wear a uniform to mark their adherence 
to his party ; who obliges men without distinction of class to 
wear red vests, hat-bands, and red ribbons in their button-holes, 
with the inscription, " Huzzah for the Argentine Confederation : 
Death to the savage, ruthless Unitarians ;" obliges women to 
wear ribbons of the same color in their hair, or head-dresses, and 
who sanctioned the shooting a pregnant woman for adultery, not- 



290 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



withstanding all efforts wliicli were made to obtain reprieve wiien 
pardon bad been refused. 

In addition to these barbarisms, which disgrace the century in 
which they are chronicled, the sentries of Rosas, in passing the 
watch- word, on their posts, during the French blockade in 1838, 
added, "Death to the French and Admiral Le Blanc." All 
official documents, correspondence, and newspaper advertise- 
ments are premised by an anathema upon the unfortunate Unita- 
rians. For example, rooms to let are thus advertised — '' Viva 
la Confederacion Argentina Miieran los Salvages Unifarios. 

Rooms to let, Calle No. IS." We can pity the extremes 

into which the creatures of the first French revolution, them- 
selves the instruments and victims, were led by the impulses of 
popular frenzy ; but when despotism is driven to such shifts as 
those enumerated, it is sufficient evidence of the barbarism of 
either the ruler or the ruled. 

The people of the Provinces I found invariably civil and kind ; 
and cannot but consider this anomaly of the times, as a part and 
portion of the system of terror and charlatantism which has dis- 
tinguished this government. 

The Unitarian party being, as I have already mentioned, vir- 
tually extinct, and their system crushed, we have to treat only of 
that established by Rosas, by courtesy termed the federal. 

The Argentine Confederation, as now constituted, consists of 
thirteen Provinces, each nominally governed by a Provincial As- 
sembly, and a Grovernor elected by the people. Of this confedera- 
tion Buenos Ayres is a constituent part, and according to the con- 
stitution of the government, has no control over the internal affiiirs 
of the remaining provinces, which are deemed entirely independent. 
In theory, therefore, the Argentine Confederation is essentially Fe- 
deral ; but between the theory and practice, there is a marked and 
curious difference. By some understanding, rather implied than 
expressed, as I understand it, Rosas has been encharged with the 
exterior relations of the Confederation ; and upon the strength of 
this position, he not only conducts without question or responsibility 



BUEXOS AYRES. 201 



tlie external intercourse, but rules the federal and independent pro- 
vinces with a rigidity, which is equalled by no other modern des- 
potism. It would be amusing to observe the difference between 
the professions of the Government of Buenos Ayres, which have 
deceived so many foreigners, and the facts as they really exist, 
were it not a melancholy spectacle to see a nation so perfectly 
submissive to the illegal exactions of one man in possession of a 
physical and moral force of which he has at no time shown an 
indisposition to avail himself. The descendants of the Spaniards 
in America, are generally factious and revolutionary ; but in the 
Argentine Provinces their spirit seems utterly crushed by oppres- 
sion ; and that liberty, in whose name were in former times com- 
mitted so many outrages in this beautiful land, they dare no 
longer invoke, even in their prayers, fearful that the spirits of the 
air, may translate it to the jealous ears of their stern rulers. 

In accordance with the theory of the federal constitution, all 
the states of the confederation possess equal rights, while their 
rulers possess equal power and dignity. That this is not the 
case is proved by all the official acts of Rosas. As the inhabit- 
ants of all the provinces consume foreign products, they pay, of 
course, a duty proportionable to the amoimt consumed, and their 
governments are entitled to a just proportion of such duties to 
contribute to their support. In the face of this self-evident 
principle, the Buenos Ayrean government appropriates to its own 
use all the duties received through this, the only commercial port 
of the confederation. So far, therefore, as commerce is concerned, 
they are independent states cut off from the sea-b^ard by a 
foreign power. On the other hand each province must support 
its government from resources within itself, which accounts for 
the transit duties so ruinous to commerce, which are levied on 
merchandise in passing from one to the other. To pretend that 
the provinces agree to this arrangement, is like the assumption 
that all the people of Buenos Ayres, many of whom even now 
lament slain and exiled kindred, are all admirers of Rosas and 



292 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



His policy, because they wear red vests and the divisa. They 
have the knife at their throats, and cannot help themselves. 

The Buenos Ayrean government appears to believe that bloody 
anathemas against the Unitarians has also chained the spirit of 
investigation among all people, and that the sophistries of which 
it avails itself to convince the ignorant brute power, which is the 
machinery by which they control, and the servile crowd who 
have been persecuted into an involunary submission, will be con- 
sidered equally valid among foreigners. All the diplomatic cor- 
respondence in which the government appears advantageously 
is carefully published in the Spanish, English and French lan- 
guages, and most assiduously promoted. The message of Rosas, in 
English, was presented to me in Santiago, during my stay, by an 
admirer or agent of the Dictator, who appeared to have a large 
supply of similar documents. 

I regret exceedingly that now, having arrived at this point of 
my sketch, I should not be able to lay my hands upon this curious 
paper in order to compare contradictory statements on its face, 
and enable the reader to appreciate the force of my assertion, 
" out of thine own mouth do I condemn thee." 

In one portion of the message the Grovernor congratulates the 
representatives upon the utter extinction ^of the Unitarians, whose 
remnants are lino:erino!; out a miserable existence in foreio:n coun- 
tries. ^ And afterward, in referring to dissatisfaction in some of 
the Provinces, he attributes it to the intrigues of the " ruthless 
Unitarians." Alluding to a revolution in Mendoza, he informs 
the representatives of Buenos Ayres that he had disapproved the 
conduct of the Governor of San Luis, for not sending troops to 
the assistance of the Governor of that Province, and approved 
that of San Juan, which did so. And again, upon the occasion of 
an attempted revolution in San Luis, the Governor of Mendoza 
received a similar reprimand. Rosas had determined to destroy 
the organization of the Society of Jesus, and did in effect banish 

* It will be recollected, that quoting from memory, I do not pretend to 
give the exact words, but only the sense of the points to which I refer 



BUENOS AYRES. 293 



them from Buenos Ayres. Two retired to Cordova; where the 
influence of Rosas followed them, and a document reached the 
Government, suggesting in that impressive manner which charac- 
terizes an arbitrary authority, that they should be banished. The 
latter submissively replied, that it was its desire to anticipate the 
wishes of the Grovernmsnt of Buenos Ayres, and that measures 
had already been taken, and the Jesuit fathers had secularized ; and 
that being old men, it was hopsd that the action already taken 
would be deemed sufficient in the premises. It did not prove so, 
and this he was informed by the Minister of Foreign Affairs of 
Rosas — for, be it known, he never condescends to correspond 
directly with his fellow Governors — and in reply. His Excellency 
of Cordova, with numerous protestations, assures the Dictator 
that the superannuated Jesuits had been banished from his Province 
and from the territories of the Confederation. 
• I mention these incidents in the message from recollection, and 
merely to show the difference which exists between the ;professions 
and the acts of the Governor of Buenos Ayres. 

The civility extended to foreigners in Buenos Ayres, especially 
those holding official positions, has blinded too many of them to 
the faults and weaknesses of Rosas' Government. Many, too, 
while acknowledging thail it is an unmitigated despotism, contend 
that the people being naturally factious, require a severe ruler. 
This argument I will not attempt to refute. The experience of 
the South ximerican Republics, with the exception of Chili, has 
been most unfortunate, and others can decide for themselves 
whether the freedom from absolute anarchy is compensated by the 
rule of a single tyrant, whose personal views have brought about 
a continual state of war, which in a hifi^h deo^ree retards the de- 
relopment of the resources of the country. 

In regard to the war with Montevideo, Rosas is doubtless in- 
fluenced by a desire for the advancement of his own country, as 
well as by a desire for the security of his own life and position, 
which depends upon his retaining the prestige and physical power 
which accompanies sovereignty. The riral city of La Plata is 



294 CHILI AND THE ARGENTINE PROVINCES. 



the natural and convenient outlet of the products of the Pam- 
pas, and its prosperity is coterminous with the retardation of 
Buenos Ayres. A rivalry has for this reason always existed be- 
tween them. Possession of that city would be less advantageous 
to Rosas than to blockade either by land or sea ; whereas the ex- 
istence of war between the two republics affords him a valid 
excuse for keeping on foot an army of some ten thousand men, 
available to support his authority against the attempts of his nu- 
merous internal enemies. 

Of Rosas I know nothing personally ; but his acts prove him 
in a high degree astute and cunning, while his obstinacy and 
power of endurance is wonderful. 

Of his private character little can be known, owing to his gen- 
eral habits of seclusion ; but it would appear that among his ad- 
herents, and even in the presence of foreigners, he is familiar and 
playful, even to buffoonery, and delights in playing ludicrous 
tricks upon his guests and confidants. It is also equally certain 
that this buffoonery, which appears ill placed and undignified in a 
person of his age, to say nothing of his exalted position, fre- 
quently masks deep-laid and important designs. In brief, it is 
Hiy opinion that while his career has been a mixture of cruelty, 
outrage, charlatanry and imposture, he if one of the most, per- 
haps the most remarkable man of his age. 

In what I have written, I am far from being actuated by a 
spirit of pique or personal hostility. 

Rosas I have never seen, while from many of his employees I 
received kindness and attention, of which I have a most grateful 
remembrance. Yet this fact I do not consider a reason, why in 
pretending to write a sketch of a country, I should gloss over or 
suppress the faults of administration and imposture which are 
presented to the world, and are consequently liable to criticism. 

Too much delicacy has been already shown by travellers and 
others towards this Government, which employs numerous and 
able writers in almost every country to denounce its enemies and 
laud its own measures ; and I believe that those who wish correct 



BUENOS AYRES. 295 



information, will consider that little forbearance in criticism is 
merited by a Government whose official acts go forth with the 
anathema, 

'' Death to the savage Unitarians !" * 

* The above Chapter was written when Rosas was in the zenith of his 
prosperity. 

He has since fallen, and opinions relative to his conduct and administration 
may be fearlessly expressed, yet I feel disinclined to add to what has been 
already w^ritten. 

Any deficiency which may be felt will doubtless soon be supplied, as there 
will be no want of writers to assail the dead Lion. 



EREATA. 

[ . Page lo, line 15, for "tbey'' read ''he." 

^ Page 47, line 4, for '' Valdina" read " Valdivia/' 

Page 80, line 27, for " ereole'' read " Creole." 
Page 91, line 24, comnria (,) for colon, (:) 
Page 102, line 17, for " these*' read "their-" 
Page 107, line 33, for " Boliva" read " Bolivia." 
Page 113, line 2. for " Danvin" read " Darwin " 
Page 199, line 2o, for " of," read " for." 
Page 206, line 9, for "joasco," read ^ paseoP 
Page 222, line 9, for '' reueiK)n«," read revenojis.^^ 
Page 224, line 27, for " was" r^d " wer^.'* 
; Page 256, line 25, for '• Mono" read " Moro.^' , 



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